Oil Filter Comparisons... Hey I.m no Engineer

[Du-Rron]

Hey, I'm not an Engineer... But I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

 

I have seen many oil filter comparisons on here, but never for these three specific filters at the same time. The filters shown here are the Yamaha 5GH-13440-00 factory installed oil filter as it came with my 2012 RSV, the Yamaha 5GH-13440-30 which my dealer tells me is the most current filter and the one that I used for my 600 mile oil change about 2 months ago, and a Purolator L14612 oil filter which seems to “fit” and is something I am considering to use as a filter on my bike instead of the Yamaha Filters. If these filters have been previously compared here, please accept my apologies for not finding them.

 

The Yamaha 5GH-13440-00 oil filter:

Is made in Japan, has a “?fiber?” mono-bloc filter element with no pressure differential valve, no Spring of any kind, and a silicone anti-drainback valve. I believe that this filter element is more porous than not, just to flow oil. I also believe that it flows the most oil right at the –V’s- in the filter element which are only 1 mm away from the inner core of the filter. Thereby not filtering the oil very much. But, I believe over time that this filters efficiency will increase as the pores clog up and or the oil turns to sludge. If this filter ever did clog up a little over many many thousands of miles, your engine would have no last ditch attempt to get oil by the opening of the pressure differential valve, since this filter does not have one, and your engine would become oil starved. Best to get this filter off at the 600 mile oil change as recommended.

 

The Yamaha 5GH-13440-30 filter is the most current filter as of 1-15-15 so says my dealer and the one I used at my 600 mile oil change. In the pictures it came off a little rough and dented, but that really is a 5GH-13440-30 you’re looking at.

The Yamaha 5GH-13440-30 filter:

Is made in Thailand, has a recognizable common cellulose filter element, with a silicone anti-drainback valve, a removable metal inner core, a pressure differential valve, and a torsion spring. There are no end-caps but there are “GLUE STICKERS” at each end that does not go all the way to the edge ends of the element. It would be reasonable to assume that a “little” oil can go in between the pleats and come out the inner side and that the oil has only been a “little” filtered since the oil went past the sides of the paper and not through the paper. The Torsion Spring has the pressure differential valve built into it and it presses against the bottom of the element, where it does not completely seal, due to the three inner ribs on the metal portion of the spring, and you can see daylight around the circumference of the pressure differential valve. The element and inner core are also pushed up by the Spring into the Anti-Drainback valve and oil filter flange. I believe that once the engine is off there will be no significant back pressure against the anti-drainback valve so it should seal well around its outer circumference against the filter flange and its inner circumference setting on top of the inner core which lightly touches the top of the paper element.

In MY OPINION, this filter is not worth the $14.00 that Yamaha charges for it and I would consider it no better than the Fram PH6017A which you can purchase at Wal-Mart for $5.00 if you don’t like your engine very much.

 

 

The Purolator L14612 oil filter substantially matches the Yamaha and Fram filters in the most important physical dimensions and is of particular interest to me because I can get one seven days a week, Wal-Mart sells them for $3.50, and they look to be a much better filter than the Yamaha or Fram.

The Purolator L14612 oil filter:

Is made in the USA, has a recognizable common cellulose filter element sealed on both ends with metal caps, a non-removable inner tube screen, a nitrile anti-drainback valve, a torsion spring pressure differential valve built into the bottom end cap, and a torsion spring. The end caps are both glued on and the glue reaches the edges of the element and there is no excess glue on the side of the element. The torsion spring presses up against the bottom of the element, and the element fits the anti-drainback valve snuggly at its inner core since it is mating to metal. The anti-drainback valve then pushes against the filter flange and also fits snugly. This is the filter, or its counterpart the Purolator Pure One PL14612, that I’ll be using in the future.

[Mike G in SC]

Impressed with your article! Thanks.

 

I had typically been using the Hi-Flo 303 as that is what bike shops sell. Sometimes K&N.

Then, reading on forums, I went to the Purolator Pure One for several years. Could get the right one (above) at Advance Auto Parts.

But then two years ago, one of the articles of filters, and then some members started saying that the Purolator (specifically Pure One) requires too high of oil pressure to function on our bikes.

Said it is made for cars, and motorcycles do not push that much pressure. ????

I do not know if they meant in normal operation or as it clogs. (That said, I used them for several years on my Royals with no known problems.)

 

So, with that I started back buying the K&N as I know it is specifically made for motorcycles. More auto part places carry it now.

 

I do not know if the pressure is really a problem with using "car" filters on a motorcycle or if they are just fine.

 

Again, thanks for your article. Mike G.

[BratmanXj]

Not sure where the article went but I agree with Mike that the Purolator automotive filters may fit but are designed for a higher volume/pressure oil system than our motorcycles. I have switched back and forth between K&N (for the people who need name brands) and Emgo oil filters with good results. I've cracked an Emgo apart and it is of similar construction as the Purolator but "softer" spring on the bypass valve.

[Freebird]

I've been using Purolator on my bikes and my cars/trucks for several years. I like them.

[BlueSky]

Just thinking. If the car filter is designed for higher flow, then the differential pressure across it would be less with less flow if that is the case with our V4s. A good thing, yes?

[djh3]

Have been using the Purolator regular or gold in the longer version of this filter since I have been back to motorcycling. I read a couple rather lengthy articles from "Bobs the oil guy" and a couple others. Best memory can serve the purolator was #1, Mobil 1 #2 and the stp or champion (wal mart brand) right there in 3rd. The Fram and Yamaha filters did not fair well in filtering or longevity. Paper would degrade and come apart. Purolator is a good choice.

[Du-Rron]

Just thinking. If the car filter is designed for higher flow, then the differential pressure across it would be less with less flow if that is the case with our V4s. A good thing, yes?

 

Yes you are correct. According to the manual, Yamaha wants a filter on the bike that has a relief (I call it a pressure differential) of between 11 and 16 psi (see "BYPASS VALVE SETTING PRESSURE" in pic from the Service Manual below). The Purolator L14612 with a relief of 14-18psi fits the Yamaha specs handily in that respect and it surely is able to flow more oil (at any pressure within the 14-18psi dump pressure) than our weeny little oil pump can produce in capacity. Me, I really never want the pressure differential valve opening at all. It would take whatever trash is already in the filter and spew it to your engine all at once. This is the last ditch attempt to save your engine. Keep in mind that the factory 5GH-13440-00 oil filter does not even have a pressure differential valve.

As far as pressure, according to the service manual, our bike should produce around 6psi - yes really just 6psi- at idle hot (44kPa). Because we can spin up to about 6500 rpm, the oil pump internal relief valve is set to dump output pressure back to the input side of the oil pump somewhere around 60 to 78psi. (see RELIEF VALVE OPERATING PRESSURE in the pic below and note that it is part #7 & #8 in the parts drawing below that.) This is a function built into the oil pump and is not oil filter related. However, after about ...say... 2500rpm we finally have made enough oil pressure that (-can-) or (-is now able to-) activate the Yamaha, Fram, and Purolator pressure differential valve if the filter is clogged or you have decided to run 90wt oil in your engine that no longer can flow through the filter. Below 70psi is normal automotive pressure that car filters and media are used to seeing, so the Purolator will have no trouble with this either.

By published Yamaha specs, the Purolator L14612 fits the requirements of the XVZ13TF series motorcycle

 

Edited February 23, 2015 by Du-Rron
add pictures

[Du-Rron]

Thank you Mike G, for your reply. Just trying to be helpful. Please see my reply to BlueSky a little lower below.

Happy Trails!

[BlueSky]

Also with a lower flow per sq inch of filter area resulting in a lower differenctial pressure, the filter media will do a better job of filtering. The higher the dp, the more the pressure tends to force suspended solids through the filter media.

[Rodburner]

I use the Purolator's on all my vehicles the one for my venture is the same as my CRV and Civic

[oconeedan]

My last bike that I sold recently (running great), I put over 100,000 miles on it using only Purolator 14610 and Rotella T6. I am planning to use the same on this 07 RSTD.

You are showing the 14612 filter, is that the short version of the 14610? It looks like the longer one will fit on this RSTD, correct? Longer, equals more surface area.

Thanks, Dan

[BlueSky]

The old rule of thumb is that an engine needs 10 psi of oil pressure for every 1,000rpm. So, our bikes probably have a higher oil pressure than most car engines. The oil pump relief setting of 61.3 to 78.1 psi is the pressure of the system when it is revved up to its maximum oil pressure where the relief opens. That relief is the controller for oil pressure at rpm.

[Du-Rron]

14612 = short

14610 = long

I use the 14612 because it is the same size as the 5GH-13440-30 Yamaha filter and it lets me change it out without unbolting the Regulator/Rectifier during install/removal. The longer 14610 would be a tighter fit for me requiring more fiddling around to get it on and off.

As I say above, Just about -any- filter would be better than the factory Yamaha filter.

 

Did you use the white filter or the yellow filter on your last bike?

Edited March 5, 2015 by Du-Rron

[Du-Rron]

@BlueSky I would say our bikes have just a tad lower oil pressure at maximum rpm than most other vehicles at mid-rpm. I am only guessing that at 70MPH that the RSV is pushing around 35-40PSI oil pressure.

 

My F150 is pumping 75PSI minimum oil pressure at 2000RPM. Almost twice as much as a RSV at full tilt.

 

Edited March 5, 2015 by Du-Rron

[oconeedan]

Du-Ron, I used the standard white filter with blue lettering. Like I said, that with Rotella T6, the old bike never complained. Over 118,000 miles, and the bike ran like the day I bought it at 17,000 miles. No kidding. You could not tell any difference in performance or sound. So...that combo worked for that bike.

Dan

[Du-Rron]

@oconeedan I am using T6 and a PL14612 (yellow). Bike likes the oil as the shifting is very slick.