Barnett Clutch Kit & Spring Conversion - HELP

[StarRider07]

Hello everyone. After searching for a long time, I can not find a post regarding the installation of the Barnett Clutch kit and the (pretty purple) spring conversion.

So, if this info is in here somewhere, I can't find it. Sorry.

I have a 2007 RSV. I just received my new Barnett Clutch kit and conversion.

Can someone post the instructions (with pictures) on doing this installation? PLEASE.

I just keep coming up with other brands being installed. I found one for the Barnett but on a first gen bike.

I am confused because some say the Barnett plates have notches, others say there are none. Mine does not have any notches or marks of any kind. I am seeing posts that Barnett comes with new bolts, mine did not.

 

And then there is that wire to remove. I see a post saying to put it back, then I see it can be thrown away.

 

The kit I got has that odd narrower shape plate. Is that what replaces the stock plate held in by a wire.

ARRRG! I am confused.

 

It would be so awesome if someone could post instructions from beginning to end. If the total Barnett instructions are in here somewhere for the 2nd Gen, please tell me the link to it.

 

Thank you so much.

 

Greg

[darthandy]

I believe this is the post you are looking for.

 

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=69932&highlight=install+barnett+clutch

 

Andy

[StarRider07]

Thanks Andy, not really what I was looking for.

I need the actual details replacing the OEM clutch with the Barnett clutch kit as well.

Two things I just need to be 100% sure about:

As seen in the photo, I have that odd size friction plate. Does that plate replace the parts that come off after removing the wire? really confused with this.

After reading that link, he chose to keep the inner half friction disk because replacing it reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle.

Does this mean if removed I will have less throttle/clutch action for slow maneuvering?

If that is the case, then losing this would be very difficult in slow turns (u-turns) and chance too much grab and could drop the bike.

PLEASE clarify this for me. (God I feel stupid - hahahaha)

If that is the case then I would want to keep the inner half disk.

 

If I keep that inner disk, is it absolutely necessary to remove it? Seems like a lot of work if just going to put it back in again.

 

Also, just to be sure, the Barnett plates have no notches. Does that mean there is NO lining up the plates??? I know it is easy to assume there is no lining up required however do to the fact I have never done this before, I don't want to go with an assumption.

 

If I can get these questions / concerns answered, I can do the upgrade this weekend.

[spike13]

i think what i would do is try to match the alignment of the tabs and friction pads on the new parts with the old ones and then install

[GeorgeS]

I simply followed the Instruction sheet included in the Barnett Pressure plate package.

If you bike is under 75K you probably don't need the new plates.

I only purchaced and installed the Barnett Pressure plate.

Was at about 15K on the bike when replaced. The OEM clutch was slipping at that milage !!

Barnett pressure plate, fixed the problem, works great since.

 

DO NOT, actuate !!!!!!!! the clutch lever after removeing the OEM Pressure plate !!!

 

As to removeing and raplacing the Disc's if you are doing that, I can't comment as did not do that on my 08.

 

However I did replace the complete Barnett setup on my old 89, and again, simply followed the Barnett instructions, was easy.

[StarRider07]

Thanks George. I don't have any concerns about replacing the Barnett spring conversion. It's the Barnett clutch plate kit i am confused about. I now seen some instructions thanks to darthandy & Jeff and others. however. my concerns now are about the parts held in by that wire. Do those parts get stored away and replaced with that odd sized plate? And if so, the results of the clutch/throttle play as i asked regarding slow maneuvering.

 

Greg

Edited February 11, 2014 by StarRider07

[darthandy]

The odd sized friction disc (The last disc in the pack) can be replaced with a full size disc after it and it's retaining wire have been removed. It is simply a "half size" disc (which is why they needed the wire to hold it in proper alignment.). No idea why Yamaha chose to make the last disc a half size one, but replacing it with a full disc certainly won't hurt. When I replaced my clutch spring with Skydoc17's kit last year, I also ordered the remaining friction discs (The kit came with a PCW spring and a full disc to replace the half size one) so that the clutch pack would all be new. The clutch action was much smoother and more controllable than stock. You should find the same with the Barnett kit. Just make sure the notches all line up as per instructions and use the proper torque when closing it all up.

 

Just to make thing clear: You won't need the wire if you are replacing the half size disc with a full size disc. And I would recommend replacing that half size.

 

Andy

Edited February 12, 2014 by darthandy
Left off some info...

[StarRider07]

Hi Andy, thank you for your reply.

What I really need is to hear from someone that installed the Barnett

Yamaha Clutch Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber

Part# 306-90-20082

Notes:

Includes all frictions and steels.

[StarRider07]

If I am missing something here, I apologize.

I guess I am confused because of the different terms being used.

 

IS there anyone that has installed the Barnett Clutch Plate Kit, Part# 306-90-20082

 

I am going to try to be very specific with my questions so I can get the specific answers I need so I can get my new clutch installed.

 

With all due respect to everyone here, I am asking for help from someone that has installed this kit or a link to someone that has posted full instructions. One link I was given was to replace the clutch basket. Another link was for a 1st Gen:

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001006&id=396 which does not mention anything about half disc or odd disc.

Others were installing a new clutch from a different manufacturer which says in the instructions that the Barnett kit "should be" the same. I can't afford to go with "should be"

Again, with all due respect, I appreciate everybody for your help, however you need to understand that I have never done this before so I need to feel comfortable. I am not afraid to do this however I don't want to get in there with a lack of information and lack of understanding.

 

I DO NOT need to know about the spring conversion. I am pretty sure that part will be easy.

 

Just so we are on the same page, this is what I really need clarification on.

And just so you know,

1. There were no instructions with the Barnett Clutch Kit.

2. None of the Barnett plates have any notches or marks of any kind. So please don't remind me to line up the notches, there aren't any.

I can only assume at this point that lining up the Barnett frictions/steel plates is not needed/required.

The kit I received is:

Yamaha Clutch Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber

Part# 306-90-20082

Notes:

Includes all frictions and steels.

Consisting of:

Yamaha Clutch Friction Plate Kit- Carbon Fiber

Part# 302-90-20037

Notes: Consists of 8 plates.

Steel Clutch Drive Plate

Part# 401-90-089050

Quantity Required: 7

Notes:

2.3 mm thick

 

This is what I know:

The OEM setup consists of that (commonly referred as) "half disc" which is held in with a wire.

 

As you can see in my photo, it shows one of the 8 friction discs being an ODD size.

So, for ease, lets say:

1. "half size" for the OEM

2. "Odd size" for that odd size friction disc from Barnett.

 

Now:

1. Does that Barnett ODD size friction plate replace the OEM half disc and wire?

If YES,

a. Is there a benefit to that?

b. Will I lose clutch / throttle play for slow maneuvering?

c. Do I need to use that wire with the Barnett odd sized friction plate?

 

So, if that Barnett odd sized friction plate does replace the half disc, would I be correct in removing the wire then the half disc, storing in a box for "just in case", and then putting that Barnett odd sized friction disc as the very plate installed? DO I need to use that wire with the Barnett odd sized plate.

 

Sorry to be a pain. Someone here must have done this Barnett Clutch Kit on their 2nd Gen.

 

Thanks you .

 

Greg

 

 

 

 

[Seaking]

I have the whole Barnett clutch system in my 06 RSV and followed the instructions. But that was a couple of years ago. As far as I remember, I still have the bail (the wire) installed as the Barnett kit's odd sized disk replaces the oem half disc. And it's been running solid ever since installation. I had tried the PCW kit but didn't like where it placed the friction zone for my applications of riding, so installed the Barnett kit which suits my needs well.

 

One thing about the spring conversion is to make sure the plate is seated properly. If you find yourself not being able to work the clutch after installation, it means you installed the plate 'a tooth' off of proper alignment.. The torque on the bolts is the same as OEM. It is that simple to install but these are common issues that come up once in a while..

 

I'll be taking my clutch apart in a week or so to scuff up the steels and can let you know what it looks like in there again, if that helps any..

[spike13]

Paul Gunn did this conversion and did do a write up with pics on a venture page on facebook you could pm him

[StarRider07]

Thanks Spike

[StarRider07]

I got it all done. Now I can't wait to actually take it for a ride to see if it actually functions properly.

 

Thanks to EVERYONE that replied.

 

Greg

[StarRider07]

Here I am again and looking for HELP!!!!

I got my new Barnett clutch friction plates, steel plates and the Barnett spring conversion all it. Bike is up on a stand, started it up, pulled lever in, put it in first, then second, third and then I started hearing some pretty nasty clunking going on.

What the F have I done wrong? I followed the steps.

To alleviate some of the possible replies, this is what I did:

I removed all the old plates, took the wire off that holds the last couple pieces. I put the new smaller friction plate in along with the original ring (spacer - whatever it is), put the wire back in which wasn't really that tough to do, put the small pressure ring in and then put in all the frictions and steels in.

**Note, the Barnett plates DID NOT have any notches or markings of any kind. I read that they didn't therefore no need to worry about lining them up.

I put in the pretty purple spring conversion and yes, I put it in correctly. You were all right, there are only 2 positions that it sits flush and yes I torqued all 6 bolts in.

After I had it all together, I drained the oil and then i only put in 3 liters of oil because I am planning on dumping it right away to flush or (at least dilute) any older oil in there.

I don't thing the clutch would be knocking (clunking) like it was just because I was a liter short of oil. I have not opened it back up again but I swear it sounds like something is broken.

What did I do, or not do? Anyone ever experience this? I pray there is an easy remedy for this.

 

Greg