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Showing results for tags 'welded'.
Found 16 results
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I'm helping a friend fix up a 96 4 piper and if some could post some pic's on how the muffler mounting brackets mount to the frame and mufflers I would sure appreciate it. The guy before welded drag pipes to the header pipes and the muffler mounts are due in tomorrow. Thanks for your time.....
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I got the collector off, cut it open and removed a bunch of loose baffling, also noticed that the left side exit pipe had a crack where it is welded to the collector body, the crack was about 3/4 of the way around. I took it to a local welder, he fixed the crack and welded a new stainless steel plate over the opening, and also rewelded all of the tacks that hold on the chrome covers. $30, not too bad! Also decided to remove the airbox, clean the oil out of it, and remove the breather tubes. I used a rubber tube with a 90 degree bend off of the "twinkie" so the hose exits to the side with a filter on it. I also drained the oil down to half way in the sightglass, that should help. I just got it back together, and it runs smoother than before, and sounds great, a deeper sound, and no rattling or leaking sounds. I'm really surprised that these changes would make such a difference to the way the bike runs, it's a lot smoother. Is it possible that removing the breather tubes and fixing the exhaust leaks could make it run better? Removing the collector was not a hard job, I only broke 1 clamp bolt, the rest were ok. If your thinking about tackling this job, get to it. Next project, installing the Road King pipes! I can't wait to see what they look and sound like. Briley. -
There were lots of things I like about my Venture...the brake pedal is, (or rather was), not one of them...so I decided to change it. The original was too high and too far back. It seemed to me that it would be much easier to use if it was in front of the footboard instead of above it. This was all a lofty concept until I got too close to a chop saw and a welder. I cut the pedal from above the hub. Then I welded a length of steel below the hub and welded what remained of my pedal to that. The brake pedal arm is now about twice as long so to keep the stroke at the footpad about the same, I drilled a hole above the original which connects the pedal to the master cylinder lever. I also chopped the footpad off of the pedal, and moved it forward and up about an inch each. The results, in all their, (yet unpainted), glory can be viewed in the attached photos. Now the brake pedal is convenient, effective and allows me to use the entire footboard comfortably. All in all, I consider it a great improvement.
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ok who told Dianne about if she needs help with a new to her bike? she saw a nice 650 woman owned bike here in the classified. and said hey that wold be a nice one. looks like september for her though. still if she gets settlement then she can get some ride time in. i can just see it now. vroommm around the block just to rub it in that i cant ride for now. we also talked about letting my 84 go next spring. get somethin newer and hate to say it dependable. this one just was not taken care of. thank god she found a complete exhaust system one bad right muffler rust trough but thats ok jbweld and it wont show. and mines good so? because she said james relax i want to show you something that shop showed me. i went oh no not any more bad news. she said not realy as we got the parts comming in be here tomorrow. but the old exhaust was welded in places that it should not have been. headers welded to collector front ones ? a shame to as they where not rusted and shiney i think the welded tab can be removed from them. they welded a piece of small steel from header to collector. i will post pics when and if i can. so i guess what im trying to say is they f***ed it up. mufflers are good but rest of it was shot to hell. that explains the backfire while at idle? and the one day it scared a poor woman in the crosswalk. but enough i need to take meds go for a walk then back to my easy chair.
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well went up to the shop today where my bike has been for a week to get brakes fixed i put $300 down as thats the shops starting policy on old bikes went in to look over the parts that he pulled off i like that he calls before doing any work and he then showed me how close i was at death!!! i bought used rotors from pinwall off of ebay front ones he said are great rear one had a crack in it hairline hard to see?? so we must replace that -------- cost $130 new caliper pistons are scored and needs a rebuild kit cost $90 bucks new all new hose cost $40 new and rubber?? for rear sorry dingy if you see this yours was getting to the point of going poof? he saw the welded res and said lets replace it someone messed up the top of it so it wasent sealing right. cost$45 new. so after going through it all and new yamaha parts plus labor cost will be over $800 bucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! im at a loss at what to do??? its sitting with all the rear stuff off. to fix this means no MD at dons and i so wanted to go. so all i can say is sorry guys and gals i wont see ya this year:crying:
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to those of you who HAVE changed your mufflers, did you have to cut the originals off. All connections on mine seeem to be welded. Any idea if this is original? thanx
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I was just ooking at a pic i took when i was looking for somthing on my bike and had the covers off this is the left side behind the sidestade you can see a welded piece on the frame is this normal or is it a repair? i heard some of the early bike had frame issues. btw i have sabded and repainted the spot
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help my 1983 venture has a cracked frame
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
does anyone know if my frame where the swing arm and centerstand connect could be welded ? I will greatly appreciate any advise thank you joel morgan -
I was doing a end of summer checkover on the bike. I discoverd that someone at one time broke the Brakes master cylinder resoivoir for the rear brakes and the welded it back up. we ll they welded up the filler hole plug as well so I cant check rear brake fluid. All Yamaha parts dealers say the part is available if I buy the $490.00 real master cylinder assembly. I just want the outer housing for the resoivoir. anyone find a source for this thing? or am I stuck buying the overpriced full assembly. -
Are the frames the same on the 99 and up Venture,royal star,tourer delux up to the latest model? The two brackets with holes in them that are welded to the frame btm. And any other upstructions below frame difference?
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Here are a few pics. I've got the Road Sofa torn down. I had to take the fairing brace off, in the last wreck, at the Dragon, I bent the left mirror mount.....this time it was the right side. Last time I replaced the fairing mount. I decided to use the old brace and the replacement to come up with one. After some careful measuring and cutting, we welded it back together. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1386.jpg Welded and time for some grinding. You don't need to weld pretty, you just need to grind pretty! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1387.jpg I'm only worried with the area that needs to fit the plastic cover. It's all behind plastic. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1388.jpg A little black paint works wonders! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1389.jpg It's ugly naked, but the lines are nice! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1379.jpg I can see making a custom out of it! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1380.jpg OK, I'll move down because the next few pics are of my road rash. Not bad, but if you're queezy, you might stop here! . . . . .. . . . . . . . . This stings a little! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1381.jpg This hurts to bend! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1382.jpg There might be a scar involved here! http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/TMagEnterprises/Extra%20Junk/100_1383.jpg Hey! I warned ya!
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Finaly finished. After listening to everyone talk about floorboard placement making your passenger more comfortable I thought I would give it a try myself. I first cut the hinge off the OEM floorboard mounts and added length with 1/4" plate. I then welded a vertical piece to the new end moving the bottom down and forward. After shaping the new horizontal piece to match the angle of the original I carried that same angle down the new vertical piece which is now forward 3" and down 3". Next I cut the "T" end of a Harley Davidson floorboard mount and welded it to the bottom of the new vertical end. To minimize flex and add strength I welded gussets to the newly formed front and back inside angle and shaped to fit aroung the exhaust down tube. After the piece was chromed I added a new set of Kuryakyn boards. For the trunk I paid $10 for a HD fender rack at a salvage shop and cut all the flanges of it and welded it to a RSTD detachable backrest I bought on ebay for $50 (what a steal). I made the weld just above the latching mechanism. Once that was in place it made the backrest ridged enough to cut the upright hoop away just above the weld and not lose the correct angles and possition to allow it to click into place on the fender rail. To minimize any vibration or flex that might come up I welded a small strut to each side from the horizantal rack on an angle down to and existing hole in the fender rail. Once the entire piece was chromed I added an HD tour pak painted to match my bike and now I have a detachable trunk I can just click out as needed. My wife is much happier. It took some time but boy is it worth it.
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After hearing about passinger floorboard and trunk mads I thought I'd give it a try myself. My wife is tall so the boards needed to go forward and down 3" each, so I cut the hinge of the OEM mount off and welded 1/4" plate to the cut end which added width. I then welded plate to the end to turn down and forward 3". After shaping the angle to match the original piece I cut the "T" end of a Harley floorboard mount and welded it to the bottom of the turned down plate. With that in place I welded gussets for strenght to the front and back angles. After shapping and grinding the edges smooth I chromed the piece and installed Kuryakyn floorboards. For the detachable trunk I took a HD trunk rack piece I got for $10 at a salvage yard and welded it to the OEM RS backrest upright just above the latching mechanism. I then cut out the backrest hoop and filled and shaped the connection. For ragidity and to minamize vibration I welded two angled struts from midpoint of the frame down to an existing attachment point on the rear fender rail. I then installed a HD tour pak painted to match the bike. I would appreciate hearing what you think.
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HI all I know this question came up several times but I couldn't find the answer. I have a newer set of screaming eagle pipes and I installed them but Too Quite. Whats the best way to get MORE sound? The pipes have baffles in them but they are welded in. Any ideas ? I could get some pics up that could help. Thanks for your time ! Jon
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RSTD Passenger Floorboard Mods
Boe posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Lowering 3" and forward 3" for tall passenger. I cut off the hinge of the yamaha mount and welded 1/4" plate horizontally to add length to clear side pipes. then welded plate at 90deg vertically to drop 3" down and forward. I took the passenger floorboard mount from a HD and cut and welded the floorboard hinge point to the bottom of the vertical plate. I used to HD mount so I can use what ever after market floorboard I choose. I am going to use Kuryakyn. After a dry fit for clearance I will finish the welds and remove the excess mass of the plate by cutting to a more attractive profile. Final step will be to have the piece chromed and mounted. Will add pics after next step. -
The shifter bracket portion (lower rear corner) on my 86 left side case broke off leaving the linkage dangling. Anyone know if these can be welded? Is it alum. or magnesium? Or is there a source to by this piece. Thanks, Gary
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