Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'volts'.
-
Hi everyone, I've got a 1978 xs750se and after replacing a bad regulator rectifier with a ESR310 from electrosport.com**, I noticed the headlight stopped working. I put a multimeter in the connectors of the headlamp wiring plug and both low beam and high beam are registering 16-17 volts at idle and upwards of 28-30volts when throttle is given. I imagine that this blew the headlight. All the other lights, turn signals function properly still. Think this could be a bad (new) regulator rectifier or there's a wiring issue somewhere along the way? Thanks for your help! It's brutal not riding because of not having a functioning headlight. I've contacted electrosport to inquire about the issue and a possible bad RR but would love your input as well. Thanks.
-
Got my bike all put back together with the new stator today, still no charging voltage at the battery. Pulled the connector off the R/R (was smart enough not to bolt it back in place) and checked for battery power, ground and voltage. I have everything at the connector now and charging voltage went up to 125 volts when I ran the idle up to ~4000 volts. Everything looks good stator side and with battery power and ground at the plug I have to assume the R/R is bad. Just looking for verification that I didn't miss something before I order one.
-
I must say this JOB is compleat... New Buckeye Stator and R/R from SkyDoc. I now have all kinds of power with everthing on I am sitting at 14.3 volts and with lights turned off I am at 14.8 volts.... never had that before. Also never had two green bars on my led meter. Pics of the battery bug and the new R/R plug and play. Difficulty of this Stator install is about 7.5 lots to do. Difficulty if the new R/R install 1.0 simple. New R/R are on the right in the photo's. Jeff [ATTACH]64639[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64640[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64641[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64642[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64643[/ATTACH]
-
I'm posting this for a friend. 83 venture standard. Bike was not charging the battery. Tested the stator, it was grounded, only getting 5 amps ac, average on all 3 sets of white wires, tested the r/r, it also tested bad with open diodes. He installed a new stator and r/r, both ricks motorsports parts, however he got them from dennis kirk. I don't know if they are the same parts that Rick on this website sells or not. The bike is still not charging. Volt meter reads 12 volts not running, when it is running, it drops to 11.5 volts. Even when running up to 2000 rpms, battery voltage does not go above 12 volts. Just for information; he has a gel battery. I thought I read somewhere that gel batteries do not charge like flooded batteries. Does anyone here have any ideas or something else to look for? -
Ok, going with my basic knowledge of electronic stuff of which I have er........ NONE, I would guess one of you wizards out there can fill me in. I have a gizmo that is powered by 3 AA batteries so I'm looking at 4.5 volts. See, I can figure some stuff out. I would assume, and I do love that word, that it would be possible using resistors or other unknown objects I have have no idea of that I could reduce the bikes 12 volts down to 4.5 to power this gizmo with a hardwire setup. So tell me wise ones...... what am I looking for to pull this off? Mike aka Sparky
-
Ok heres my problem, For 2 years straight now this bike has puked a battery. First was an original honda t type battery and now its a uasa that was installed new in feb. Went to crank the bike 2 days ago and it was dead. Checked the water and refilled with distileed water, jumped the bike and let it idle for close to an hr. BIked cranked back up after I cut it off so figured all is well. Today tried again same thing except water level was good. so put on the trickle charger thinking it just didnt get enough charge as it was showing 11.7 volts after 2 days setting static at 22 degress in the am. Charged for a few hrs and bike cranked wright up with full power. This is the same thing that happend on the first battery too. Heres where i get confused. I put the multimeter on the battery at idle and its charging at 13.4 volts. Brought up the revs( no tach so just brought it up) and ay first the meter went to 20.06 volts and then dropped to 12.6 volts. Ilet it idle again and meter went back up to 13.4 volts. I then did an unscientific test and noticed every time I rev the bike and set the thumb lock to hold it the head light gets a little dimmer. Volt meter also drop back to 12 or so volts every time. Did this multiple times and never seen and thing over 13.4 volts and thats always at idle. I checked the meter on my 91 vr and it showed just over 12 at idle and 14.1 at 3000 rpm so Im thinking meter is good. Round about the same numbers when it was checked on the e-250. So with all this Im thinking either a bad stator or voltage regulater. Any ideas. Help please as this is her bike and Id really like to get it wright for her. She will ride mine but shes scared of the weight . She has a hard time bringing it up to center and then her toes just barely touch. Any ideas are apreciated. Tahnks in advance David
-
On my return from St Judes I stopped for gas. Went to start the bike, and when I hit the starter button, the starter just kind of started, then stopped, then the bike fired up. Next gas stop...Filled up, reset my trip odometer, pulled over for a break. Went to start the bike, and the same thing happened again. Made one more stop on the way home to add clothing...same thing again. Got home, turned off the bike, went to check the total mileage for the trip, both trip odometers read 0...and clock time was off. Next day put a voltmeter on it. 13.75 volts, turn key on, 12.5 volts...driving lights are on....hit starter button, 8.5 volts. The voltage drops seem considerably high. Tried it with the driving lights off and it didn.t make a lot of difference. Bike runiing is 14 volts so it is charging. The bike still starts fine, but am I looking at a near future problem???
-
I've had my project Venture up and running for a while now but I am having problems getting up to 14 volts when running. My head light is dim and signals slow. Battery is fully charged and the bike starts and runs fine. Volts will read a max of 13.8 at 3000 rpm. Is it the stator or something else that I can look at? Mike Smegielski Waterbury, CT -
It's not a Venture but I am hoping someone has experience with these bikes. The problem; The battery goes dead and the engine dies. It happens faster if the headlight is on. The system. 1971 Honda SL125. A 6 volt balanced charging system (rectifier but no regulator). It has a four wire rectifier. Two from the stator, one battery neg and one battery pos. it has a two step 3 wire stator. White stator wire goes to headlight switch and activates second step of stator and is switched to the yellow wire when the headlight is on. The yellow wire, first step, goes to the rectifier. The pink wire goes to the rectifier and is common to the white and yellow. What we have done: We resistance checked the stator. Leg 1-0.3 ohm Leg 2-1.7 ohm. No continuity to ground. AC output out of stator leg 1 7.5 to 9.5 volts AC at rectifier. Leg 2 7.5 to 9.5 volts AC at rectifier. Diode check rectifier front .350 volts to energize, back open on all 4 diodes. Disassemble selenium rectifier and clean all connections just in case. Perform voltage drop on positive and ground wires to the battery. Resolution. The problem is not resolved. We have 6.3 volts 0.1 to 0.9 amp at the battery running and 5.91 volts and falling with -2.1 amp with the headlight on. Questions: Is stator resistance ok? Honda does not publish a spec. Is stator AC output voltage 8-9 volts ok for a 6 volt balanced system? Can the rectifier diodes test good and it still be bad? Any ideas? Plan; Our current plan is to wire in a rectifier from an automobile alternator and see what happens. Anything else we can try? Thanks Mike
-
The fuel pressure switch sends constant voltage to the fuel pump relay on my bike. I can see this when the pressure is low but when pressure is achived I stll get 10.2 volts up to the relay ?????? is this normal ????? The relay will close when it gets 10.9 volts or higher. I guess I am just wondering if I need to change it or not. Or just let the pump run full time LOL.... Any help would be appreicated... -
My "other" bike is a 1981 Honda Silverwing 500. I put a ton of miles on it every year, and for 5 years have not had a problem. Well now I am having a problem that I am unsure how to fix, or diagnose. Until tonight I have not had any problems with it starting. Now tonight I picked up my wife from work with it and when she got on I hit the button and the lights went out like normal but nothing else. I had to jump the solenoid to get it to start. After that I noticed that the lights seem to get brighter and dimmer, the turn signals work for a minute then just stay on and at the gas station I had to push start it. I do have a new solenoid ordered, but is that the whole problem or just the tip of the iceberg? My wife thinks I am going to retire it once the Venture is up and going. That is not going to happen. I need to figure this out. Everything I checked with my meter has a voltage range from 11.0 volts to 15.1 volts. Right off the alternator it sits constant at 15 volts (ac here). Any help would be appreciated. And I replaced the rectifier about a month ago, the old one just quit. That was obvious as I lost power everywhere. May still be a problem with the new one just wanted to get all info out. Shaun
-
Well after 4 trips to the shop they tell me they found out why my bike battery was going dead from 60 to 100 miles. They said the stater coil is bad now. They had checked it before and said it was good. But they said the leads are not putting out the same one leg was 18 volts AC one 30 and the other 40 volts. They are having one shipped end over night and said the bike would be ready Friday. I have high hopes this is it. well it almost has to be, they changed out the battery, the rectifier regulator, they have to hit it sooner or later.
-
Does anyone know if there is supposed to be only 6 volts at the turn signals? I need 12 volts to power an LED light array. After installing them I found them to be too dim, so I put a volt meter on the signal lead and found 6 volts. Is this normal? If I jump to the battery I come up to full brightness. Any solutions? I thought about using relays but is that the best solution? If so what kind of relay should I use and how do I wire it? -
I installed a Chrome Glow LED light Bar and it looks great and the brake light is great. My problem is the turn signals are only about half brightness. I checked the voltage on the turn signal wiring and only about 6 volts is coming through. Does anyone know why I would have only 6 volts to the turn signals? I checked it all the way back to the harness just behind the battery. Is there only supposed to be 6 volts to the turn signals and if so how to I get 12 volts to the turn signal wires on the Array?
-
Ok, so I have the suspicion that my original regulator/rectifier bit the dust last weekend. Battery went dead after going through a almost 10 mile road construction through Death Vally going 10 mph. After that the battery was dead, voltage in idle below 9 Volts, barely 13 Volts over 2000 rpm, not enough to charge the 4 year old Odyssey. Made it home after push starting the bike, barely kept running with the radiator fan on. I checked the battery, after charging it over night, tests at 218 CCA, stated is 220 CCA, not bad for 4 years. The stator measures at 0.5 Ohms, all combination of the 3 wires, connections look good, measured AC voltage with engine running at 2000 rpm is 10.2 Volts even and equal on all three connections, no conductivity to ground. That pretty much leaves the original regulator/rectifier... I bought one of the newer style regulator in the last group buy, would like to hear about possible installation locations. The only reference I found mentions the fairing underneath the radio/cassette player. Any other, maybe better locations? I am planning on keeping the old regulator installed and disconnected (after replacing with a used/ know good one of course), simply circumventing it with new wiring. Also debating to replace the factory connector from the stator with a better splice or different connector. Any thoughts? Anything I am overlooking? Thanks in advance, Klaus -
Would there be any advantage to having both a volt and amp gauge? If not, which would be better to have?
-
My question is the two wires going to the old horn. Should they both show 12 volts at all times? I checked them with a light and both has 12 volts with the key on. And is this the two wires that goes to number 85 and 86 on the relay? Aslo I'm curious of where everyone placed their relays at....
-
Hi everyone, I am looking for some who can do a voltage check on your tci---let me give what I need. I have an 84 venture, I have 12 volts going to the tci- at all the wires that are 12 volts---- Now what I would like some to do is, do a voltage reading at the 12 volt inputs with the key on,--- Now his what I need to know ---- when you hit the starter WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE READING? mine is droping to about 4/5 volts!!! but will not start. Now everything else is ok, in fact I do get a very weak spark out of the coils. My thought is that I should have 12 volts all the time-can't rember any thing that would drop that low just to start! Also the other parts of the system stays at 12 volts, I hope someone could do a test on their bike just to see if this is where my problem is. Thanks a million guys. tom ---cookieman
-
Hi, maybe someone has an anser for me. I have an 84 venture that will not start!!! I repace the tci and it ran, I had to work on the carbs--- ok did get running, but I went to start it to finish setting the carbs and...... at one time it was like the 4 of july. Here's the stange thing I have 12 volts going in to the tci red wire just like should, but I start cranking and the voltage goes down to 3.68 volts on the red power line-powering the tci!!! I have checked all the ohm reading and they are ok, all the relays are working. I follow the diagram and it shows red line 12 volt all the way to the tci, I know the wiring route on the bike is noware near the drawing on the paper(I found that the stater wiring goes thourgh the turn signal relays and other things). I just can't get 12 volt's at the red power ine. Has anyone else had anything like this show up. Thanks any help would be appericated. tom
-
I have an 89 Venture, and replaced the stator last year. I must admit this stator never indicated as high a charging as the old one did. However, these guages are not noted for being really accurate. However, how is it possible to have the voltmeter indicate less than or equal to 12 volts, for 40 km. I shut the bike down for 1/2 hour. I had barely enough to turn bike over to start and then on return trip it indicates charging ie about 13.5 volts. I even had a short trip 0f 40 km one way, where it indicated 12 or less, and then gradually worked up to over 12 volts after about 30 km. I note that if I put on running lights (2x35 watt) they really knock it down...but for all the above the only electrical items were Cb, radio and cruise control. I thought that the stator either worked or didn't, battery the same. So I am thinking poor conection somewhere (note I did remove conectors when installing new stator and directly soldered), or is it possible the regulator can do this intermittent thing? I am lost on this one. Perhaps some of the electrical gurus have ideas? Thanks.
-
I encountered a really strange one on the road Saturday. We stopped for ggas and when I went to restart, it acted like my battery took a dump. We push started ok, but the voltmeter barely made it up to 12 volts. About a half hour down the road I just happened to notice that my Hi/Low beam switch was halfway inbetween the 2 settings, so I reset it. Almost immediately the voltmeter went up above 12 volts, and the problem was solved. Fine and dandy, but yesterday I smelled a very faint burnt electrical smell, and looked, and sure enough the darnn switch was halfway inbetween again, same basic symptom. Put switch back and everything is beautiful again. I may be accidently hitting the switch when clutching as we have been doing a lot of twisties these last 2 days... Just wanted to make you aware of a potential problem source! -
Spotty charging leaving me stranded
qdude posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I have a new battery, I have checked the plastic pin to the retifier and cleaned it pushed the pins in and greased. When the bike gets hot, like riding in slow traffic it quits charging. Goes from charging 14.1 volts to whatever the charge in the battery is 12.6 volts usually and gradually down to below 12 volts. I have ordered a new retifier and will replace next week. Any one else have this.. 99 Venture thanx -
I have recently acquired a 1989 Venture. I replaced plugs and wires, and replace battery cables as per this web site. I 'thought' I remember that after doing that, my bike would indicate around 14 volts during highway cruising and drop to around 12 in town or idling. Yesterday, my battery seemed a little sluggish on startup and I noticed only 12 volts during highway speeds, dropping to around 10 v in city. During starting, the voltage would indicate 8 volts or less. I suspected a stator problem and looked up the testing alternator by GeorgeS in 1st gen library and I quote: "At the Large White Plug, with the 3 #14 wires comeing from the Alternator: Do the following: Measure the AC voltage on each wire. You can stick the meter probs into the end of the White Plug. ( located just behind left rear cylinder, White connector, with 3 white wires thru it ) With Engine running, you should Read 9 to 15 volts AC, ( thats AC, not DC ) on each wire. If the voltage on " one" wire is substantially , Lower then the other two, then your Alternator is failing. " I am a little confused about the measuring method but here is what I did. I took apart the plug with 3 white wires running into it. I then measured across the matching wires to the 2 plug halves ie wire #1 from female plug to #1 tab in male plug. This was done while the bike was running. I got 17 volts AC across 2 of these matching wires and nothing or very little on the third...I assume indicating my stator is going or gone. Here is the funny thing though. If I reversed the leads on my meter then I only indicated 7 volts AC on the same two wires and nil on the third set. Why would that happen? I mean, what difference if I measure left to right or right to left on AC current? Weird. So, any suggestions? I assume I have to either buy a new stator or is there such a thing as rebuilt stators? How about trade ins? Anybody know? Are there any more tests or things to check to confirm stator is fubared? Thanks.
-
A friend called with a problem with his 99 RSV. He just replaced the battery and went for a ride, parked all okay. Then went for another ride today and when he stopped and tried to restart the bike it would not crank over, and the trip odometers reset to zero. Waited 10 minutes and it started. The battery measured 12.08 volts. tried to start it and it cranked over very slow and did not start. Voltage dropped to approx. 6 volts and then started clicking. After charging it for a bit it started. Voltage measure 12.08, when we reved it up it would only get to 12.4 We cleaned the ground wire on the engine. SO now what to check ? Manual says to check the stator by checking ohms. Where do you check this ? Do you have to pull the cover ? Where does the wire go to check the ends of the leads ? If this is okay what next bad rectifier ? Can you check this to make sure it is working without replacing it ?Anything else to check would be appreciated ?? Brad
-
does anyone know of a "made on" date for the pc680 battery. i am beginning to think my "bargain battery", is WAY out-dated, as it will not seem to fully charge. most i can get in it, is about 12.85 volts. don't know if that is hot enough to spin a v4 engine, or not. thanks in advance. just jt
.thumb.jpg.176b2ebbe9863175975d94710375c414.jpg)
(2).thumb.jpg.7092a7f3a80adddbf4f7a25510b6c0b0.jpg)
