Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'volt'.
Found 23 results
-
http://www.truck-lite.com/wcsstore/tl/new/images/en_US/LEDHeadlampPR.jpg http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?pageName=/new/PressReleases_en_US/LEDHeadlamp.html&storeId=10001&langId=-1 Here is the one paragraph that matters to us: “While initial production is limited to 24 volt,” stated Brad VanRiper, Truck-Lite’s Sr VP of R&D & Chief Technology Officer, “we are actively testing 12 volt 7” LED Headlamps and we expect them to go into production shortly.” Yall stay tuned!!
-
My 84 has been running great all summer long, until last week. It has sat for about a week, due to rain and the like. Pulled the Tender, and it fired right up. The LED Volt meter did not lite and the "Battery" showed in the bikes display window. The bikes volt meter was in the middle of the scale. The bike ran and idled smoothly. I reved the engine several times nothing changed. LED volt meter was still out and the "battery"lite was on. After about 10 minutes running, the volt meter fired up and settled into 14 volt charge indicator and the battery lite went out. Could this be a bad LED Volt meter? Could it be shorting and causing the battery lite to come on? Is it a bad battery? Stator? It does something to ya riding a bike and the red light is flashing and the battery box is on. It sat for three days and today it did the exact same thing. :detective:Does anyone have any ideas. Saddle_Bag -
Can i change the circuit breaker from 5 amps to say 15_20 amps without blowing up the electrical system? I need to run a 12 volt air pump which has blown the 5 amp fuze tout de suit (PDQ) both times i've tried. Any thoughts? FF -
We just bought a used Lees-ure Lite tent trailer and are looking for unique and "neat" ideas for anything associated on our camping trips. We plan on using a blow-up mattress. It comes with a 110 volt rechargeable blower. One idea I was thinking is to get a spare m/c battery and a 12 volt charger/blower. Another neat idea I came across is for storage of "stuff" as in the following pics... [ATTACH]58921[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]58922[/ATTACH] Got any others?
-
This should be easy, BUT........................ I am looking for a 12 volt (if possible) mobile printer flat bed scanner for use in a vehicle. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I dont want to use a inverter if possible. Just cannot seem to locate a 12 volt printer.
-
Any suggestions where to mount a mini volt meter on an 89 VR. Protected from rain preferred. Size of mounting hole is M4.3cm×2.3cm(1.7" x 0.9"). -
I would like to install a good volt meter on my 89 VR, for I understand the dash meter does not provide a reliable read. Is that correct? So I would appreciate some good suggestions as to what there is out there and where a good place to install it. And any other related suggestions?
-
I've been thinking about doing some tinkering with my dash, but since I ride year round, that would require me to get another dash housing. anyone have one? I ride an early '83, so no shift lights and cruise, won't need a tach, speedo, volt meter, temp guage or computer either, clock doesn't need to work either. I.e. basically I just need the box. Let me know. Thanks!!
-
Hot day and volt meter reading
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Yesterday I traveled from a ride in and the day was hot hot hot, and to make it even worse got caught in horrific traffic back jam due to accidents or what ever. I noted my bike was getting on the hot side of things so cut engine off whenever I could. Also noted the volt meter stayed at just above 12 volts at higher rpm rather than at 14 as usual. This morning it pops right back up to 14. Any reason or explanation for this? I already cleaned the wire connectors from stator and put dialectric grease on it some time ago. -
K, got her buttoned up and started. Was warming her up to start the carb sync. I looked at the temp gauge and it was sitting at the bottom figuring she cant still be that cold. I saw the volt gauge was where it needed to be. I saw one bar on the fuel gauge and then it went to the fuel pump on the center display. Ok, figured it is getting low (prolly is). Anyway, as I glanced over to the Volt gauge, it was on the bottom. When I turn the key on, they both bump up a tad before dropping back down. Headlight, turn signals, brake & brake light, instrument light, center display and tach are working. I did replace the speedo and plate before I buttoned her back up. And I did the fuel tank thing to get a better reading on the fuel display. Ideas? -
Would there be any advantage to having both a volt and amp gauge? If not, which would be better to have?
-
I plan on doing the gauge install. Which is more usefull...amp or volt ? I have installed : 2006 Stratoliner driving lights ( 4 bulds) Zumo 550 Larger horns Extra brake lights Piaa Extreme headlight bulb XM radio upgraged stator Buckeye thanks Cb
-
I was at a local HD dealer and saw they had the Kuryakyn l.e.d. volt meters for about $25. I found them here. http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go/Home.ProductDetail/IMID/872 Rod
-
Thought I'd give y'all a little first hand observation on the operation of the RSV carb heaters. Most anyone with an interest is this subject already knows that the four carb heaters pull a combined 60 watts of electricity, the equivalent of the stock driving lights. Considering the limited extra power output of our stock charging system for things like heated clothing and such, reclaiming that 60 watts is an oft-discussed issue. But the one thing we have never really discussed is just how often and how long those carb heaters are actually on. I added a cutoff switch last year to allow me to manually shut them off if I ever wanted, and I also added an LED to let me see just when they were really on. Problem is, I honestly never remembered to actually check it anytime it would have been of value! Well, when several of us were up in Palo Duro Canyon in the Texas Panhandle this weekend, I finally had a good chance to check it out and actually remembered to do it. This discussion is NOT about the technical specifications of when the thermostat triggers the heaters to come on and go off - you can find that in the shop manual. This is about real world observation of when they are REALLY on and when you might care. I found that when the temperature is 35 degrees, the carb heaters will stay on for about 30 minutes when doing low-speed and city type riding. After about that long, the combined heat from the engine and that right rear exhaust pipe (real close to the heater thermostat) will cause them to go off and stay off (PROVIDED you continue riding in the same conditions). BUT, at highways speeds (for this test it was anything above 60 MPH), the constant blast of cold air around the bike will KEEP THE CARB HEATERS ON CONSTANTLY. If you slow down while riding through a town, they will go off, but shortly after you get back up to speed, they come right back on. As the temperature approaches 40 degrees they will go off and stay off, even while cruising at 70 MPH. So, bottom line seems to be that the value of disabling the heaters to reclaim that extra electrical power will completely depend on your type of riding and the lowest outside temperatures in which you might ride. If you never or rarely venture out on two wheels when the temperatures are below 40 degrees, you can pretty much just ignore the carb heaters - they won't be on long enough to make much of a difference for you, even if you are pushing the limit of the available electrical power. Just half an hour or so of extra drain won't make much of a difference UNLESS that is about as long as you ride each time (such as only riding to and from work instead of on a long trip). However, if you tend to ride below 40 degrees, you really should think about putting in a switch. I think the most important advice I would give anyone who has concerns about the electrical capacity on these bikes is to add a digital volt meter. I have discussed the benefits and limitations of both volt meters and ammeters in some older threads, and although neither of them alone will let you diagnose the condition of both the battery and the charging system, the volt meter alone WILL suffice to give you a heads-up when you are on thin ice. In short, if all is good, the voltage should ALWAYS be over 13.0 volts while above idle. If you see it staying at anything below 12.9 volts while riding, either your battery is on it's last legs, or you have more electrical load than your charging system can handle (while having to charge the battery too). Goose BTW - as I have stated in many other posts over the years, from my own personal measurements, the stock RSV with Yamahaha riding lights (only 30 watts each) and carb heaters on is already at max load if you are using the audio system and CB too. There just ain't nuthin left for anything else but maybe a few LED lights. Some people claim to have been using 55 watt driving lights and heated clothing for years with no problems - good for them, but it ain't so on the two RSVs I have owned. Without the proper gauges you can THINK everything is fine, but you are slowly destroying your battery. And not even "slowly" if the bike is usually run for less than an hour each time you start it! If you don't have the gauges, but still want to know if your battery is really up to snuff, just use a decent digital volt meter and touch it to the battery terminals after the bike has been sitting overnight (any reading within 3 hours of the last ride will be invalid due to a superficial "float" charge). If the battery is not at 12.9 volts, it is NOT fully charged. And like I said above, if the volt meter does not read over 13 volts (preferably about 13.8 - 14.0) when you start the bike and bring the engine above idle, then it can't even properly charge the battery if it is not already damaged, hence the "slow death" that will have you buying batteries more often than you need to.
-
I saw freebird's suggestion for using relays- but wondering about adding a couple of wally world driving lights, and a 12volt outlet for a gps. I was wondering a good place to wire in the new 12 volt high amp circuit- and if i should place a fuse in line as well. I don't want to fry the computer! -
My charging has been rather erratic lately. Some times it seems to be barely charging and other times the needle is right up by the line at 14 volts or so. Often it is right around 14 volts at idle. A few days ago the needle went as far into the charge zone that it could go but settled bake down after a few seconds. Tonight, while pulling away from a red light, the dash lights and head light got extra bright all of a sudden. I looked at the volt meter and it was as far as it could go. I pulled to the side of the highway and turned off the engine. I then restarted and it did the same thing. This happened 5 or 6 times. A couple of times it would drop back where it was supposed to be and then suddenly do it again. After 6 or 7 times it finally mellowed out and acted like it is supposed to. Do you people feel that the regulator is going out or maybe a grounding issue. Back in the 60s I had a 49 Harley that did this same thing but after just a few seconds it blew out all of my bulbs. That time it turned out to be the battery ground was not tight enough. That old bike had a 6 volt DC generator and a regulator just like a car. With this system the regulator is ground to the frame itself plus I read yesterday or the day before where someone said that these alternators don't charge at idle but only once past 2000 rpm. I think tonight I proved that theory wrong. OK who's got ideas? Dick
-
I got a question and I hope its not a stupid question. I have never had a bike with a voltmeter on it before so I dont know if this is normal or not. When i have the turn signal on is it normal for the volt meter to go up and down ever so slightly? How about when the brake light is on i notice the volt meter go down a volt or two. Is this normal for these bikes or does this indicate I have a stator about to go out?
-
Well, I got a cheap garage remote off of fleabay and took it apart. The battery was 3volt and I confirmed that with my multimeter. I want to hard wire the remote into the motorcycle electrical system. (No need to replace batteries) I went to Radio Shack (I know, radio shack is not a good place to buy stuff, but it was convenient) and they had two types of voltage regulators. One was a 5 volt regulator and the other was a programable regulator. I purchased the 5 volt regulator thinking that most IC's are 5 volt. Well, the voltage regulator didn't work. I confirmed 5 volts at the remote and the polarity was correct, but the remote circuit must have some sort of limiter on it. I disconnected the 5volt regulator and reconnected the 3volt battery and the remote worked fine. Reconnected the 5 volt regulator and it didn't work. Fortunately I didn't fry the remote board. However, I will have to go back to radio shack and get the programable voltage regulator. I have been taking pictures, when I am done I will post a write up.
-
I found a battery tender in Wally World the other day. $19, figure it can't be all bad. After reading the instructions (probably my first mistake) I am concerned about hooking this thing up. I have already added the connectors to my terminals and have the connector snaked out to a convenient but hidden spot on my 07 RSV, but am concerned. Do I need to remove the seat and monitor it or can I leave the seat on the bike and just plug in the connector? I was hoping that is all I have to do. Because in south Louisiana it snow one day (?) :rudolf:and 70+ degrees the next. Also, is the battery a 12 Volt or 6 Volt. Did I mention, I know NOTHING - lol Thanks for the advice in advance.
-
The 12 volt power socket on my fairing has no juice. I can't see any blown fuses on the fuse panel. Is there another inline fuse for that socket???
-
hi excuse my english i want install sirius radio on my venture 2005 and more people on this forum said i install 6 volt supply why 6 volt ?i d'ont understand sirius is 12 volt? and i want to know if i can plug directly my radio in the plud of lighter on the fairing. And the antenna where you put on the bik,e not inside the fairing thanq you for your answer and excuse my english not good bucheron
-
Hello All Has Anyonr Replaced There Stator With The One From Buckeye Performane? I Have A Lot Of Lights And Things On My 99 I Have A Volt Meter That Hover Arounf 13 To 13 2 And Moves Fron 12.9 To 13 3 Upand Down I Can Not Run The High Beam Or It Will Drop I Am Adding A Side Car To The Bike So My Wife And Sun Can Rud With Me And Not Leave One At Home And I Am Afaid That The Light On The Side Car Will Drom It More. I Was Wondering If This Stator Will Help The Volt Meter Also Has A Amp Reading And It Is About -3 Amps All The Time Any Inpot Will Help Thank You Kevin Wisor 1999 Rsv Jax Fl
-
Recently, my 84VR has developed problems charging the battery. I put a new battery in last year and have never had problems until now. While running down the road, the voltmeter always pegged out just above the 12 volt mark, where that slash mark is. Now the voltmeter barely reads to the 12 volt mark and if I don't put a charger on the battery, it gets to the point where it won't turn over at all. If I let it rest up a bit, the battery gets a little life back and it soon turns over but it is definitely not charging properly. Where should I start looking? Thanks in advance!
.thumb.jpg.4e1b3809c4633f365ba67afc212f21df.jpg){kind=avatar}
