Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'vacuum'.
-
Ever since purchasing this 86 VR in April, I have been chasing an acceleration hesitation problem. Only hesitates when engine is at idle and the throttle is cracked open. The motor does not respond and hesitates and may even die. I have been completely through the carbs, including new sliders and diaphragms. No vacuum leaks at alll anymore. Is this a symptom of running too lean or too rich? Everything else is fine, compression is great, plugs are new, well fairly new, new wires, boost sensor is operational, no problems with the vacuum line to the boost sensor. Valve adjustment is right on. What am I missing? I think is still a carburetion issue but can't pin it down. Any thoughts? -
We've talked a lot about the SyncPro ('[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33618]Carbtune versus Motion Pro SyncPro[/ame]' and '[ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38304]Carbtune/SyncPro vs 4 seperate vacuum guages[/ame]' [sic] being two recent conversations). I bought the SyncPro and took it with me when I visited V7Goose yesterday for carb work. I wanted his considered opinion. Yesterday was filled with surprises. First it was the roofing screw, then it was meeting lobo17 (he came to see the carb work), but one of the more interesting surprises was how the SyncPro "works". Goose did not like it on reputation, and liked it less on sight. Goose was determined to prove the SyncPro to be junk. To be sure, there is much to dislike about it. It seems cheap. You have to calibrate it each time. But it was reputed to work, so he wanted to see how well it did. Look at the photos. Goose hooked it up to a hand-held vacuum pump. The first shows the SyncPro calibrated at 5 inHg. The second shows that it goes out of calibration at 10 inHg, and is clearly wacked at 15 inHg. When he returned it to 5 inHg, it was out of calibration and fragmented too. It would seem that blipping the carb would send the SyncPro out of calibration. For fun, I am including a photo of Goose's tool. There is no doubt it is quality. You can also see him in action. He uses his laptop to monitor the RPMs. That's pretty cool. Well, he disliked the SyncPro before I left Houston, but how did it do? As I [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=364594&postcount=9]admitted earlier[/ame], I bungled the repairs to it, so I expected the sync to be off. But it was surprisingly good. 1 & 2 were sync'd OK, and 3 & 4 were sync'd OK, but left & right were not sync'd together properly. I had problems getting L/R to come together, and it turned out that while not horrible, they weren't that close either. When Goose got L/R together, the RPMs surged like crazy. Clearly, my bike was running better. Maybe if I hadn't reversed hoses, I could have gotten nearly decent results. So, why did the SyncPro work as well as it did? Looking at Goose's vacuum pump test, you would think it shouldn't. I think it was because you calibrate at idle, which gives you a given vacuum. And that's the vacuum you sync to, give or take. What's worrying is that you lose the calibration when you blip the throttle (change the vacuum). In short, I don't think I can recommend the SyncPro. I don't think the pluses outweigh the minuses, and I am not convinced it will do the job. I want to take the opportunity to thank Goose for being so generous with his time, talent, and coffee. My bike runs like a top as a result. Thanks Goose! Dave
-
I have a few members interested in getting an Ignitech 1st gen TCI. Main thread on this aftermarket TCI is located at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 There was an issue with the prior group of TCI's to be upfront on this. There were a few members that experienced brief ignition cutouts in 3k to 4k range. This seems to have been mostly resolved by using a programing option with the TCI. 90~93 single pickup coil bikes did not report this issue. These TCI's are as close to plug& play as I can get. All that is needed is to unplug 2 cables from stock TCI & plug into adapter cable. Unhook stock vacuum sensor hose from #2 carb & hook in new vacuum tube for new sensor. TCI will work on 1983 thru 1993 Ventures & 1985 thru 2007 VMaxs. I need to know what year bike that the TCI is being used on to get correct adapter & matching program in TCI. TCI cost is $255.00 USD, this includes TCI, adapter wiring harness, new vacuum sensor, instructions & units preprogrammed by me better than what they are from Ignitech. Also includes priority shipping to US address. Paypal payment is $8.00 extra. I would rather not get paid for these as a gift to avoid paypal fees. International shipments will be charged extra cost over US priority fee of $10.50. Shipments will be insured. $5.00 increase over last time to cover insurance. Ignitech warranties TCI for 1 year. I will assist anyone with a return issue. I am only assisting in members acquiring these units. 11/10/12 - Lowered price $5.00 because I can not get the smaller vacuum sensor I was going to get to work. I will use same one as last 40 units, just a little larger physical size. I will refund $5.00 to those that have paid me already. Gary -
The vacuum hose at the actuator has a crack in it allowing it to leak and drop the cruise off. Is there a way to get to the hose and cut it off or replace it without removing the fairing? I was able to get one finger on the hose and feel the crack but couldn't see how to get to it.
-
I bought an 87 venture royale this spring that has been stored for two years. The owner said that the carbs were redone before it was put away.( Cost him 750$ .. I didn't see the bill) Anyway, I brought it home and have been playing with it ever since. There was fuel problems and I finally got the bike running. I put in seafoam, and naphtha and it starts up and runs not too bad.. but I think it is not firing on all cylinders. I hooked up my carbtune and I get no response from cylinder # 1 left rear . No vacuum at all. When started it up this morning, I checked the exhausts and the left rear got hot very quickly and the other three got slightly warm in the time I ran it. I checked for vacuum after changing the lines to the carbtune with the same result as before. I have just pulled the plug and it was slightly damp and somewhat black. This is where I am at now. What should I do now? Any specific tests , and order to help trace down the problem(s)? Help!
-
Is the ignition system vacuum sensor on my '88 VR supposed to hold a steady vacuum? I checked all the related hoses for vacuum leaks and found none, but the sensor itself will not hold a steady vacuum as the vacuum bleeds off moderately. Is this a problem, or is this the way it was designed? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA -
My new to me 1999 Venture won't pull hills with the cruise on. After reading several posts I got out my service manual and did the self-diagnostic. The vacuum actuator seemed to be moving fine, the cable was a little loose, though. I tightened the adjustment on the cable up and didn't get any more travel out of the throttle linkage. I tested the actuator with my vacuum pump and got full movement with the pump. No leaks. I tested the hose from the pump to the actuator. No leaks. I checked the pump and it is only pulling 10 inches of mercury. My gut tells me the pump is weak. How much should it pull? I also noticed the pump runs for three seconds or so before there is any movement in the linkage. Forgot to add that my calibrated wrist does not feel any stickyness in the throttle cables. The throttle snaps back smartly. Any way to check them individually without losing sync? -
We just got back from a trip and the cruise control is getting a little lazy. Works, but not quite as responsive as it used to be. Has anybody tried replacing the vacuum pump or maybe reworking it? Since it's on all the time the bike's running, it got a lot of time on it.
-
two weeks ago I had a problem i know others have had. It was a hot night and the idle on my bike started to go up. I could not get it down so headed home . there i lubed all my throttle cables and choke linkages then finally readjusted my idle getting it down to around 1000 rpms. i latter realized this may have been a vacuum leak problem and have seen that suggested here by others as well. What I'm looking for here is a previous thread from someone that may have had this problem and hunted down the offending vacuum line so i know where to look and how to fix it to prevent it from happening again. oddly this only happens when its hot. So if anyone knows of a thread like this could you point me in that direction?? Thanks a lot. I like the 86 a lot I have headset for the com system and love the whole set up the bike still has a few bugs to work out from sitting for 5 years but She runs great and I'm enjoying every minute. While working on the radio i did find a cozy mouse nest under the cassette player unit. Luckily not residents at the time.
-
My bike has been running like crap for a while now and i finally had time yesterday to have a look at things and clean it up a bit. I found a hose connector broken and both ends of the hose open and one end has a good vacuum on it, when its plugged the bike runs way better, so for now until I can get the connector replaced is it ok to just plug the hose ends? Just what is that hose for? Any ideas? Thanks for your help, Brian
-
I keep reading that there is supposed to be a vacuum line connected to the #2 intake port on the 96 Royals. It is supposed to go to the ignition (boost sensor?). Can anyone verify this? Mine doesn't have it. All four of the ports are capped. Does anyone have a vacuum line routing diagram? My clymers doesn't have one. I'm thinking someone may have removed it for some reason and that it may be why I haven't been able to remedy my decel backfiring. Thanks! -
Watched a brake job today. The instructor used an old Gatorade bottle and 3/16th hose as the vacuum for the job. Really worked well. The way it was set up is to take a length of hose that fits over your bleeder valve and drill a hole in the bottle cap that the hose will just slip into. Run the hose through the cap into the bottle. Then hook the free end to your bleeder valve. When you are ready to start bleeding/draining the fluid, open the cap on the bottle slightly, and squeeze the bottle. While holding the bottle in the "crushed" condition, tighten the bottle cap which will create a vacuum in the line. Open the bleeder valve and the fluid will flow. If the vacuum is exhausted before the bleed is finished, just close the valve, open the bottle cap and crush again. I was impressed with how well it worked.
-
So, finally finished my carb rebuild and reassembly onto the bike. A few too many explicatives resulted from trying to get the throttle cables back on. With the help of all the resources here, I was able to work my way through removing, disassembling, cleaning, inspecting, replacing a few parts, reassembling, and reattaching to the bike. Yesterday, I picked up some vacuum line and a 5-port junction to check the sync tool I have. It was originally designed for my dad's old Honda CB750 with some unique attachments and a bunch of indicators on the gauges, rather than actual numerical vacuum levels. With the junction, I hooked up all four gauges to #1 port and they were all right on. So, proceeded to hooking up to all four cylinders. I spent a good 20 minutes with a fan on the bike, getting things adjusted. Things fell into place a lot faster after I opened up the 4 idle adjustment screws another half turn - they were originally all open 2 1/2 turns during reassembly. They were all over the map when I started, but got all 4 lined up very well. I initially set it right around 1000 rpm, and then checked and tweaked things around 2000 and then again at 3000 rpm. They remain well synced at all three levels now. Granted, this is not the same fuel flow/load as actual riding conditions. On my test ride, I noticed that things were more sluggish than usual, and it doesn't seem to have the same level of "snot" that it used to. It's slow to respond to medium or hard acceleration. It doesn't ever "bog down," so to speak, but just not as responsive as it should be. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm a little disappointed with myself that it was more responsive with 1 main jet completely plugged and 2 others about 20% plugged Thanks much in advance! -
Linking the Vacuum Ports Taken from various posts on the VentureNet Forum http://www.venturers.org/NextGenTech/2ndGen/images/ais_tee.jpg This is a simple and near zero cost modification that improves low end throttle response and is claimed to increase gas mileage. (yet to be verified) The only drawback is that it causes a slightly irregular idle. Step 1 - Remove the rubber plugs from the vacuum ports of cylinders 2 and 4 and the AIS hoses from cylinders 1 and 3. Step 2 - If you have already disabled the AIS by plugging the hoses going to the exhaust ports, then the small rubber hoses attached to the vacuum ports of cylinders 1 and 3 can be left disconnected. For protection, they should be plugged. (a spent .22 shell fits very nicely) Step 3 - If you plugged the hoses in step 2, then connect a piece of 3/16" fuel line between the vacuum ports of cylinders 1 and 2. Connect another piece of line between cylinders 3 and 4. Skip to step 5. Step 4 - To leave the AIS vacuum control enabled, connect the control hose to a small T fitting with the other 2 ports of the fitting to the vacuum ports of cylinders 1 and 2. Repeat for the other side. (A suitably sized brass T is available from aquarium supply stores.) Step 5 - Ride your bike and enjoy the increased performance and mileage!
-
I've been troubleshooting a Cruise control on an '06 Venture that I purchased used last October. The cruise has not worked at all for me. I followed the self diagnostic procedure in the service manual. Did the set anf res buttons 6 times, the lights blink correctly, but then only the res light stays on. Checked the brake switches, they're ok. Did the throttle test, but did not hear the vacuum pump come on. Hot wired the vacuum pump and it runs and draws vacuum. Did the cruise relay test and it passed. I'm left with checking the speed sensor (assume if the speedometer works, then the sensor works; may be a mistake), or replacing the cruise module. Has anyone had a similar experience, or got any advice? How much would a replacement cruise module cost? Your thoughts are appreciated. Frustrated in Ohio:confused07: -
My buddy has decided to clean his carb ai showed him last year.Problem is he lost the seat that goes under the main jet.Its thr one thr vacuum needle slides into.It can be seen through the venturi on one carb but not the other. The bike is a Johnny pag chopper and from all the info I can gather on the carb.It is Sheng Wey (Keihin copy)26mm vacuum type carb. Much like thr ones on the old gold wings I had.I need to find a replacement for this part.I'm hoping someone can lead me in the right direction our better yet, if someone has a parts carb than can part with this item if size matches.Any Ideas Would be appreciated. I wasnt to get him back running again.I've been holding on to his carb for 5 months now. Thank you in advance
-
Got to love those new vacuum cleaners [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaQ_c1UoXF8]Dyson Vacuum commercial - YouTube[/ame]
-
You might want to look into this one....
-
I want to replace the vacuum plugs on the carburetors of my 2000 RSV. I have stared at the carburetor parts fiche for too long and I don't see the plugs. I know, if I can't find them, my local Yamaha Parts person is likely not to be able either. It would behoove me to call them with an exact part number, prior to my visit. I know I can get them at an automotive parts store, but the ones at O'Reilly's look cheap, and they have a smaller outside diameter, so the original clamps are too big. Thanks, dana -
It's an 88 Venture. Owner is Trader. Bought it from somebody in Chicago this year. Ran like crap when he bought it. Smelled rich, but plugs don't show it. Wouldn't idle without the choke on. Thought to do a carb tune on it yesterday. Found #2 cylinder wasn't firing. Cleaned the carbs with spray cleaner and a bit of air. Eventually got # 2 to fire. Still ran like crap. Tried to do a carb tune. ( I have a homemade one that has 1 vacuum gauge with 4 shut-offs that works just fine when ever I used it before and tests out just fine right now). Got no vacuum on # 2 or # 1 cylinders. Could get vacuum to show on 3 and 4 but the screws had to be turned to their max. Tried adjusting the throttle cables, worked better but didn't do anything for vacuum. Checked for leaks in the manifold boots, around the intake, around the airbox, and anywhere else that might be of interest. Called Squidley out of bed and found out what Lonna was up to,,, and it wasn't making cheesecake, so we talked instead,,,, thanks Lonna. Went out and convinced Steve (Trader) that it was time to get a compression tester. I bought it, he paid for it and then left it here???????? Compression tested to 180 on all four cylinders. engine was warm, not hot. Switched the vacuum lines form side to side to make sure things worked right. Expected to see #3 and #4 drop in vacuum, but 1 and 2 still didn't have any vacuum. Far as that goes, they seemed to maybe even have pressure because the needle seemed to keep wanting to go past the stop post. Set the screws to where I thought they would be most beneficial, (no vacuum showing anywhere) put it all back together, fixed the battery lead and put the tools away. End result: garage is cleaned up, bike runs without choke but still smells rich and idle screw is turned into the limit, Steve is on his way home and hasn't come back yet. I am now the proud owner of a brand new compression tester. AND WE NOW KNOW THAT 1ST GENS DON'T REALLY NEED VACUUM TO RUN! Now the big question,,,,,,,,,,,WHY??????? -
Cruise Pump I have a car cruise on my VTX and I'm looking for a vacuum pump. Is the Yamaha cruise pump an actual pump. In other words can I hot wire it and use it as a pump? I bought a Gold Wing thingy I thought was a pump and it was just a vacuum check valve. Thanks for any help. Jeff
-
Well I got my 93 up running with a carb rebuild, but I noticed the revs slow to come back down, so I figure a vacuum leak. I sprayed carb cleaner around the boots that attach to the head, and sure enough the revs jump up on all four cylinders. I see there is an o-ring in the boot assembly. My question is, can you usually get by with just an o-ring change, or do the boots themselves routinely go bad? The bike has less than 19,000 miles on it, so it has spent lots of time sitting. Thanks.
-
I have been trying for some time to figure out why my 86 VR doesnt get the mileage some on here claim. Mine, ever since installing the 89 motor (and even with the original 86 motor) struggles to get just slightly over 30 mpg. In addition, the bike has always seemed not to have the umph at higher rpms. My old 88 ran like a scalded dog all the way up to redline. And I have done about all one can do, carbs, sync, plugs, wires, caps, compression is great, valves are right on, no vacuum leaks etc. Well, after reading another thread earlier this week about boost sensors, today I pulled the b/s vacuum line from the manifold, applied vacuum with a mity vac and it would hold nada, nil, ziltch. I had no choice but to pull the necessary stuff to completely remove the rubber vacuum line to check it out and it is just fine; no cracks, plastic connector or balancer, whatever that little gray plastic piece is called is just fine as well. Applied vacuum to just the hose and it holds vacuum just fine. I then pulled the b/s and tried applying vacuum direct to the sensor and you can suck air through it like a straw. That is the culprit in my mileage issue and can't help but call it the culprit in the lack of high end performance. So, does anyone have a good one they are willing to part with? If so, please let me know and I will gladly pay your price. There are several on fleabay but no way of knowing they are any better than the one I just removed. Hope this works. Thanks so much Herb
-
This is a different bike than on my signature. The bike in question is the 99 rs venture.I usually dont forget steps when reinstalling parts but I know I did this time. The crossover vent lines one on each side of the carb sets, left and right. Where are those tubes comming from? If I would have seen them i would not have forgotten to remember to put them where they belong:fiddle:. Where should I look for these and am i right tinking that these are just vent tube or are they vacuum? While we are at it , does anyone know a post on making a bracket for the stebel horn?
-
Quick Question. My rtsc has little rubber caps plugging the intake nipples. My buddies 99 rsv has a tube connecting left intakes together and right intakes together. I thought that would cause a vacuum problem but before I go changing it I wanted to know if any one knows how it should be?
