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Found 10 results

  1. I looked for this for a while. Haven't tried it yet and orginal poster is no longer around. I had to replace mine awhile back and I made my own from some 1 1/4" ID copper tubing. there are two ways to do it. 1) cut two pieces 1" long, split one longitudinally and slip it over the uncut one then solder the cut 2) cut a piece 1" long and then get a union sleeve, grind off the inside ridge and slip over the cut tubing. Works great, no problems or leaks for a couple years now.
  2. Replaceable? Repairable? Carb #4 on the Lady lost her's a long while ago, we tired copper tubing and jb and that failed. Any solutions?
  3. Geesh, I'm at it again. Onto another odd project. Before I get into what I'm going to try do this time I thought I'd check and see if anybody has access to any scraps of heat shrink tubing in a diameter of 2" with a wall thickness of around .045. I figure a piece about 6" long would let me find out if this is workable or not. A few pieces would give me some room for failure. (I'm betting on that) Just thought I'd shake the cage to see if anyone had some short ones laying around before I order a chunk from McMaster-Carr just to find out my idea don't work. Like everybody has 2" shrink tubing laying around right? Mike
  4. Hey everyone, I am a first time Venture owner... and just about have this new bike I bought up and running... but I have a simple question... I cannot find where the PCV valve [at least that is what I think it is] hose plugs into... It is the smaller hose that connects to the base of the air box and runs down the front of the engine near the frame rail. A little more than half way down it has what I believe is the PCV valve, and then there is about 12 more inches of tubing. I cannot find where to plug the other end of this end though.... Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for ANY help you can offer - I'm kinda excited to get this thing on the road. Oh, and it's an 84 if that helps...
  5. Just finished making "2" (TWO) Flag pole under $15.00 . Here's pictures of one of them mounted on my rear trunk rack . The mast are made of lavatory water supply (tubing) lines , the ones made of chrome plated brass . I used 3/8" all-thread inside the tubing to striffen the mast . As I inserted the all-thread into the tubing , I used Marine Grade sealer/silicone to secure any cavities as it was the ID and OD were not exact match . While spinning/screwing the all-thread into the tubing , I applied the silicone sealer onto the threads . At the tip of the tubing where it is formed as a natural flare is a plastic insert where the all-thread did make a good contact . The end of the all-thread is just short from passing all the way through , on which I placed a dab of silicone sealer to secure a chromed dog collar spike to complete the top of the mast . At the base of the tubing , I run a stainless steel safety nut (one with the plastic insert , forgot the correct name) reversed to give an acorn top look just under the tubing . The mount I made from aircraft aluminim . Measements are 3/4" x 2" x 1" . Drilled 1 hole to fit around the trunk rack and 2 more to secure it to the rack . 1 hole , I passed the mast into and tightend securely with an acorn nut . Second hole I used acorn nut up top and safety nut underneath . I would have used another acorn nut , but ran out of them . Also to mention , I used the over length all-thread as my second securing bolt . The flag , I purchased at Walmart just under $5.00 . It is the heavy duty , window type plastic mount , made of double layered fabric . I removed the flap from the plastic mast and inserted a section of pvc tubing into the tubular fabric on mount side of the flag . It was a tight fit , which made is better . I inserted the mast into the pvc tubing on the flag and followed it with up with a rubber grommet to keep the flap up top of mast . The rubbwer grommet is the type used to insulate wires through sheet metal which I purchased from hardware store as well . The way I made this will allow the flag to rotate freely around the mast . Overall , I have only spent nearly $20.00 for 1 flag and 2 flag pole mast and took me approx. 1 1/2 hours to make . Gene
  6. was trying to get a harbor freight tire changer. well they are on back order. i bought the bottom part and i am making the motorcycle part. i did a little innovating along the way. so far it really is going good, and i'm only in for $2.75. i did have some donations of materials from one of my good friends who owns a machine shop. all he had was stainless steel tubing so stainless it is. any way i could'nt drill the stainless for the pins (burned up a new titaniam drill bit), so i redesigned it. it is going to have an infinate wheel dia. setting now. i will have pic's when it is complete. bill
  7. Back in "the old days" when British sports cars had SU carbs, we used to stick a piece of rubber tubing in one ear, and pass the other end by the mouth of each carb, listening to make sure that the pitch of the air flow was the same. This method could be made absolutely accurate if, instead of putting the tubing in one's ear, he held it next to the microphone of an electronic guitar tuner, which would read out exactly what the pitch of the airflow is.
  8. I went to my local dealer and was told that I cannot buy the black wire tubes that they use on the wiring harness in the factory. Does anybody know where I can get some in different sizes? I cannot find it in all my internet searches? I am not looking for heat shrink tubing or the split loom that is used on most cars. I want my wireing mods to look like they were done in the factory.
  9. Greetings. Just finished a kind of a neat "Fender Trim Rail" modification on my Royal Star and wanted to share it with you. I had bought a "Mascot", the "Chrome Fender Tip" as well as the "Fender Trim Rail" even though the dealer told me that the "Rail and the Tip" would not look good together - the fender would look overdressed and the Trim Rail would hide/shade the fender tip so there was no logic in putting both on the bike. Me being a stubborn eskimo demanded all items and said that I would at least have an option of what to put on. To cut a long story short I saw when trying these on that the dealer was right - with both items the front fender looked overdressed and the Chrome Fender Tip was barely visible since the trim Rail hid it almost completely. But have a look at the pictures. I think I came up with quite a nice looking solution for putting all items on with a little modification to the trim Rail. How to do this is easy or as follows: Cut off the lower tubing of the Trim Rail. Have a workshop with a lathe make an insert that goes into the tubing but has the same diameter as the outside of the tubing at the end. Have them drill through the center and make threads. On the end of the Fender Trim Rail (the end that attaches to the fork/fender) drill a 4 mm hole so you can run wires through the tubing. Buy some LED lights at www.fortech-online.com/ (they have all kinds of neat vintage looking lights) and luckily the bottom radius of the lights chrome housing is exactly the same as the outside radius of the Trim Rail tubing. Open up the headlight and connect your wires to the blue wires inside the housing (there are two blue wires connected to one blue wire - the only ones with that color in the housing). Connecting this way makes the lights stay on constantly when bike is running regardless of high or low beam. They can of cause also be connected to the blink wire of the turn signal but that way they will only come on when you put the turn signal on. I am sure there are many other options in connecting these but I am not very clever when it comes to electricity so I leave other suggestions to those who have knowledge. The pictures show before and after to show the difference of these two different setups. Enjoy !
  10. I have been looking at a trailer by Neosho Fiberglass, in Neosho Mo. The overall looks and price is good, however I am not sure bought the frame. It is made of 3/4" square tubing. Does anyone have experience with this trailer. Here is their web sight, which shows the frame. http://www.neoshotrailers.com/ Thanks for the help Barry
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