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Showing results for tags 'tubes'.
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I'm not sure of my memory on this one but both the MKI and MKII inner fork tubes are 40mm or 41mm diameter? Mike
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Yesterday I got ambitous after I got home from work, and went to working on the Venture out in the shop. I have ow got all the engine covers in place, shift linkage installed, carbs mounted and hooked up to the cables. One question, I am getting rid of the Yics chamber. I didnt have any vacum caps to put on the tubes coming out of the engine. I just the rubber hoses down and used them to cap of the tubes by connecting them to the one next to it. I read a post here somewhere where someone else did the same thing, my question is should the be connected to the cyl beside it or the opposing cyl. or does it really matter. Also I cant find the wire leads where the neutral swithch and the oil pressure/level wire plugs in to the system, where can I find the leads that they plug into..................I have looked and looked but cant find them and dont remember where they should be.:confused24:
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Do the 1983 tires take tubes? In other words do I need to order tubes along with my new tires? Thanks
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2 Full sets of snow tires for my truck and Taters suv (8 tires)............ $1,086.00 4 winter wiper blades......... $62.00 8 sand tubes (winter weight) $46.00 I HATE WINTER !!
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I have a slight front end bounce when I go around a clover leaf. I checked the air pressure, drained the oil and made sure and replaced the oil making sure the same was in both tubes. I saw something about the rear shock could be bad. Any other ideas. -
I noticed on this site that alot of folks replace their own tires. My other bike, kaw/ 1500 needs new tires and want to replace front and rear in the next few weeks. I'm mechaniclly inclined ,wrenched on cars for over twenty years and have the tools to do so. My question is, being that these tires are tube type is there anything I need to do as far as installing new tubes, such as not getting them pinched ect. and was told to use babay power to help in the installation. I plan on removing the wheels myself and removing and installing the tubes and tires. I have done car tires in the past, but all were tubeless. I guess my main concern is can I do this myself, or just remove the wheels and take them to the dealer or a tire shop and have them do the tires? Also a concern is the safety factor, never done this before and with only two wheels under me I don't want any issues. I will be purchasing a m/c jack in the next few days to do this, and recommendatios? Sorry for so many questions, but any suggestions would help me decide, your thoughts? Thanks in advance...
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I finally bought a dremel kit, mainly to fix a few broken tabs on the fairing but I'm sure it will be very useful for other things too. What's up with the drum sander bit? There is a rubberish drum on an armature and some sanding tubes that apparently slide on the drum. There is nothing I can see that will hold the tubes in place and even light pressure makes them slide up or down. Obvious or not, what am I missing?
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I have removed the AIS system from my 2006 RSTD. I crimped the tubes and that shut off the nipples from the heads. How can I plug these tubes if I remove the original pipes/packing/clamps?
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I'm in the process of doing a fork seal replacement and was wondering...is it best to pull the anti-dive leads out at the "dash" and route them back in afterwards or can I remove the unit on the fork tubes and re-install it? This is a "quickie" replacement and I won't be taking the tubes apart. I'll just be sliding the old seals out along the tubes and the new ones back in the same way after pulling the fork tubes out of the "tress".
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I am rebuilding a set of forks on my 83 Venture.I have a damaged fork tube(scratched).I bought a set off Ebay but the caliper mounts are different.My question is,can I use the tubes off the newer forks and the bottoms off the old forks?They look very simmilar.I am also planning on using all the parts from the new forks.When I took the tubes out I broke a piece off the washer on the inside of the one tube.It is the one that doesnt come out.90 percent of the washer is still there.Can I still use it? -
externally, there are 4 inlet ports, and 2 exhaust ports. internally, there are also 4 "tubes" on the inlet ports and 2 tubes on the exhaust ports.my question is ,would removing or shortening the "internal tubes" , have any serious effect on the overall engine performance? referring mostly to carbs. just jt -
I have the Morgan carbtuner, when I sync the carbs the gauges fluctuate at an idle and smooth out at a higher rpm. I reluctantly threw the restrictor tubes away. Does anyone know of a fix that I can use to restrict the vacuum lines? Or should I be concerned? Tks
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I got the collector off, cut it open and removed a bunch of loose baffling, also noticed that the left side exit pipe had a crack where it is welded to the collector body, the crack was about 3/4 of the way around. I took it to a local welder, he fixed the crack and welded a new stainless steel plate over the opening, and also rewelded all of the tacks that hold on the chrome covers. $30, not too bad! Also decided to remove the airbox, clean the oil out of it, and remove the breather tubes. I used a rubber tube with a 90 degree bend off of the "twinkie" so the hose exits to the side with a filter on it. I also drained the oil down to half way in the sightglass, that should help. I just got it back together, and it runs smoother than before, and sounds great, a deeper sound, and no rattling or leaking sounds. I'm really surprised that these changes would make such a difference to the way the bike runs, it's a lot smoother. Is it possible that removing the breather tubes and fixing the exhaust leaks could make it run better? Removing the collector was not a hard job, I only broke 1 clamp bolt, the rest were ok. If your thinking about tackling this job, get to it. Next project, installing the Road King pipes! I can't wait to see what they look and sound like. Briley. -
Just got my forks back together for my '84. Had a lil mishap year that damaged the seals so a rebuild was in order. Ended up buying a spare set of forks to rebuild as I was concerned about damage to one of the inner fork tubes. So that started the whole project. As I had time over the winter to play with this I got into doing a good job of it. Stripped the clear coat off the lower tubes and bought some goodies to try my hand at polishing. Worked out pretty good for a much better finish but a long way from a professional job. Good enough. A lot better than where it started from. And I had wanted to find a way to remove the anti-dives. I had disconnected them long ago but the buggers were still there. Wanted them gone. I had played around with making my own plates to close the ports but it was a PITA to get right. Then our one and only skydoc_17 offered up his SS Blockoff Plates. Thank you Earl. Now there are two less items to take a toothbrush to. I finally got around to ordering the rest of the parts I needed from skydoc and got after it this week. Done deal, finished, over. Laying on the bench ready to mount back up as soon as it warms up a bit more.....maybe tomorrow. The blockoff plates make for a much slicker look and cleans up the forks nicely. I might mention that when I opened up my old forks (with the Progressive Springs) I found I had gained a bit of slack in the preload. I made new set of spacers to tighten that back up. Don't even want to talk about all the things I found wrong on the inside of forks I bought off eBay. Yikes! What some people will do to a bike to try to make it work. Death wish I tell ya!! But I got what I needed from them.....both inner tubes were good so that alone was worth it. So a few pics of the old and new. Mike -
I've been playing around with polishing the lower fork tubes and this is after the first go over with the emory compound. Compared with what I started with it's looking pretty good. Still have a couple of steps to go so it should get better. The thing is I have lot of pitting where the stickers were and on the inside (back) of the tubes. I'd like to be abe to smooth that out where is can be seen. The back side I'm not so worried about and it gives me a place to experiment. This may be more than a lil wet and dry sanding can handle. Not looking for a show finish but would like to clean it up a bit. Any thoughts? Mike
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Does anyone know the procedure to split upper & lower fork tubes on a 2008 XL 1200 Custom? My son has one and he wants to powder coat lower fork tubes. A clip from service manual would be very helpful. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT2684s.jpg
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My seals are leaking now and I'm bottoming out easily. I don't have any new springs or seals to put in and I'm just not wanting to miss a sunny day My seals are leaking now and I'm bottoming out easily. I don't have any new springs or seals to put in and I'm just not wanting to miss a sunny day on the road. Today I will add oil to the front tubes but I was wondering....can a person put some Power Steering Stop Leak in the tubes to help the seals? (I did try the trick of lifting the dust cover and running a bead on top of the seal. This helped a little. Did not last long though.) What if any effect would this thickener/stop leak have on the performance/operation of the tubes?
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Okay here is my problem, I drive the scoot to work and on windy days as the bike just sets there in its parking space, I get little oil splatters on the downwind side of the bike, on the ground, about two feet from all the drain tubes hanging down under the shock. Now I know that if you over fill the crankcase with oil it drips out the tubes but I can honestly say its right where it should be, stand the bike up and the oil comes to about a half way up the sightglass. I park in the garage at home and there are no drips on the floor there. I am confused---does the wind create a vaccumm across the tubes when it sets outside and pull engine oil out? Yes I know, its only little drips ignore it, but we just built a brand new facility and the concrete is brand new. It's making me look bad next to the Fat Bob rider! Any ideas how to stop it?
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What tools do I need to disassemble, then reassemble front fork tubes on MKII? I know Yamaha has their 'special' tools. Can it be done with long socket Extensions? I want to break down a set of forks and replace seals. Also, I am going to powder coat lower tubes. Gary
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So I've put about 2000 miles on my 86 in the last six weeks. I LIKE IT! Alot more bike than an 83. But since I've only owned 83's (5) I have a few questions. 1. RPM. I'm at 4000 at 70 mph. Is that right? Seems high 2. Gas milage I'm only getting about 32mpg. I got about 40 on the 83's 3. Are the stator and clutch the same as the 83? 4. Fork tubes. Are the 86 and 83 the same? 5. Is the exhaust the same? 6. What is the BEST clutch setup to put in an 86. I ride hard with lots of weight and trailer Thanx for your help oh great venture guru's
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First, decide what parts are needed for the job. Such as the electronic climate controle module for an Expedition. Next, check the dealer pricing. List is $713.00 and discount on-line is about $553.00. Local junkyards want about $110-150. All of this is way too expensive. So, wait until about 2AM and go to Lonestarmedics house. Pop out the door lock on his Expedition and tear his controller out and just chop the wires and vaccum tubes. Yep, believe it or not my truck was broken into for that purpose alone!!! I had to go get a used unit and have them chop the harness out of the wrecked vehicle. Then spice the wiring, run a new set of vaccum tubes and replace fuse. Ordered a lock cylinder and need to get it keyed. I alway thought this neighborhood was decent. I guess too decent since we have the right vehicles. I have anti-theft but no screaming siren. Going to fix that. We have wanted to move and have been waiting for a short sale. Now we just want to get out of town. Thanks for reading, just needed to vent. We need property with about 150 yards clear around the edges. Should be able to lead a robber on foot with a .308 with that!!!!! Yes, comprehensive deductible $500.00 and the repair was under $$200.00 New dash harness, controller, and labor almost $3000.00. JB
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Today I built one of the carb sync tools using the clear tubes, rubber stoppers, and transmission fluid as the liquid. The tubes are 18" long and I put about 4" of liquid in each. The unit looks just like the many posted on here before. After warming up the bike I connected the four tubes to the carbs, started the bike and all of the liquid was sucked into the #4 tube and was bouncing violently up and down and fluid was sucked into the carb. I finally got it settled down in tube #4 adjusting on both sides and some liquid was now in #3, however, bouncing up and down violently. The entire time no liquid in 1 and 2 tubes. I shut it down and added liquid back to the 4" starting point in each tube. Started it up and the same thing. I shut it down, thinking the carbs were way out of sync I set the three screws the same number of turns. Tried it again and the same thing. Shut it down and put it all back together. Never did get any liquid in 1 and 2 tubes. I tried adjusting the sync srews via the tach (plugs and hose back on) and could get the rpms to move up and down. Kept adjusting until the rpms were at the highest on all three screws then could not get it to idle down to 1000. I noticed the idle adjustment screw was not touching the plate. The only way I could get it to idle down was by adjusting the screw on #1 and 2 carbs. I assume my cable needs adjusted? Any thoughts on the liquid problem in the #4 tube and lack of fluid in the #1 and 2 tubes? -
I am trying to calibrate my new SyncPro Carburetor Tuner. I checked the idle, it is at 1000rpm. I attached the short hose to Cylinder 1 -- which I believe is the rear cylinder on the left side, and normally wears the cap instead of the tube. See picture. When I start the bike to calibrate, the leftmost column rises all the way up and past the scale. The other tubes are also very high, but don't get sucked into the engine. It seems the engine has too much vacuum. What should I do? Should all the other vacuum tubes and caps still be attached? Should I reduce idle? I'm getting frusty, Dave
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what is the base number of vackum when sinking the carbs? mine is about 24 that seams low.using mercury sticks. Are the tubes with the mercury in them supose to be steady or do they move up & down ?
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Does anyone know if you need to use the impact wrench to retighten the allen bolts in the end of the fork tubes after seal replacement
