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Showing results for tags 'tube'.
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The new replacement shock has a half inch vent tube on it. The old one didn't . So is there a place to route this vent tube ? It's about 10" long. I,'ve tried to include a picture so look at the whole post
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OK, how screwed am I? (hold that thought) I was taking the tank off to run wire for the HID headlight last night. I did the normal thing of attempting to break the seal from the brass tube and the carburetor hose like I've done so many times before. As I was putting things back together (in the daylight) today, I realized the brass tube is sticking in the end of the hose. SOOOO. 1) Is the brass tube just pressed into the petcock or brazed somehow? 2) anyone know of a fix to keep this from happening again in the future? 3) Any Ideas? Signed Two steps forward and one step back!
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Got trunk complete other then some pinstriping to be done at Don's in June. Could not upload so check out you tube link. [ame] [/ame] hope it works. Tell me what you think. Joe
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Roadside Marine in Williston VT. When I did my clutch upgrade I must had either pinched the gasket or didn't scrape it off good and now I have a very small leak. I stopped to get a new gasket and the one they had was broken but he gave me a tube of stuff they use and said try this with the broken gasket and just drop the tube off when I have a chance. He gave me the broken gasket no charge. They are great people there.
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Well, As you know from reading my other thread, I had a freakin monster of a time getting my front axle to break lose once I took the pinch bolt out. I worked with it for about an our at night, and then got on it the next morning. I had to grunt, holler, and pull with all my 300lbs of weight to finally get it to break lose. As I'm finding out from some of you and a few friends locally, once I took the pinch bolt out, it shouldn't have been that hard. Well, now I'm realizing why there was a problem. When I got the axle out, I had noticed the threads had what looked like some sort of maybe thread locker stuff on it, and they also had what I now realize was some thread trash on them. At that time, I just cleaned them up real good, and took a brush to them and got them shiny looking again. I wasn't even thinking to look at the threads inside the fork tube. Well, today I got my new tire on the rim, and started back remounting the wheel on the fork tubes. When I got the axle snug, I put my torque wrench on it, set to 56 ftlbs, and I didn't turn it hardly any and I felt the threads get weak. The torque wrench hadn't even got to the point of clicking yet. I stopped instantly and realized what I had felt. I backed the axle back out, and looked inside the fork tube and confirmed what my suspicions were. The threads were in pretty ruff shape and had been semi stripped. I now realize that the last time I had the tire replaced at the bike shop, they must've overtightend and partially stripped it, so they then put a thread locker on it to make it stay in place. That had to be why it took an act of God to get it to break loose. So, I'm in a predicament. I need suggestions for next steps. Do I have to buy a new fork tube? Has anyone had to go through this and maybe fixed it another way? If I do have to buy a new fork tube, does anyone have one that I could buy cheap? etc, etc, etc. The suckish thing is, the shop that I had the work done at, went out of business, then was bought and opened by new owners. So, there's no way I can get retribution. Need help, please. -
How do I get the left fork tube off my 2007 RSTD? I took the 2 pinch bolts out of the top, and removed 2 allen bolts at the middle that looked like they were holding the middle cover on, but no budging. Is there something else? Seems like there should be more to it than that, but the aluminum covers/protectors don't allow me to see anything else. Thanks
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A follow up to the idiot who posted a you tube video of himself going 300KPH (186MPH) through traffic just outside Victoria B.C. The guy is 25 and has lost his licence 5 times so far. In my opinion he should go to jail. His motorcycle is registered in his mothers name. As the registered owner she is responsible for it. She has been ticketed $1449.00 for driving without due care ($368.00), excessive speed ($483.00), not having insurance ($598.00). Charges are pending against her son.
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I posted this in the Watering hole and it was moved to GoldWing section. But it works on ANY bike so I am reposting here. Remember, even if temporary this fix works, is free (with an old film strip) and can save you on a trip and save money as many have found the fix to work long term. Eck said some use an old credit card, but that is too thick IMO, stick with something very thin and flexible like a film strip. Here we go: My GoldWing developed a bad leak in the Right fork right before taking a trip to FL two weeks ago. If I had known of what I am going to tell you now, I could have saved a lot of mess. The only solution for leaky fork seals is a new seal...right? WRONG! There is a guy selling a special tool to clean and reseal those leaky seals, but if you have some old 35mm picture packs around, you can do it for free with a strip of 35mm film negative. Trust me, I did this and it works like a charm. Turns out the reason most seals leak is they get dirty from inside. If you take a strip of film negative (trim the "sprockets" off because they can break off, so the sides are smooth, and round the corners of one end) and after raising up the dust seal, slip the negative under the fork seal, keeping it tight to the fork tube. The film will go in the seal maybe 1/2" or so. Stop at that point and then carefully and slowly just slide the negative around the tube, keeping it mostly vertical with the tube. Do this about 2-3 times, just sliding it around the tube with it under the seal. Remove the film and wipe down the tube, and test it by bouncing. It should stay dry. If you notice any more oil, try it again. But it shouldn't need it. Like I said, my fork was squirting all over my bike while riding and while it was bouncing in a trailer on the way to FL. After getting back I found this solution on an 1800 site, and tried it and I now have about 150 miles on since the "fix" and my forks are bone dry. May not last forever, but the guy that I heard this from said he hasn't replaced a seal in many years. I need to replace the fluid in my fork, but if I had caught it sooner, I wouldn't have to do that. (edit, yes, there still IS oil in my fork to leak, but is isn't so far, over 200 miles and counting) Try it, all you have to loose is one film strip (make it one you don't care about!). __________________ Don Mallinson Washington IL
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I've noticed oil on the tip of my kickstand. Anyone else had this? I just figure it is from some breather tube that comes out there. Anything I should be concerned with?
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/Users/talonsx2/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Masters/2012/05/22/20120522-205256/IMG_1654.JPG ARGH So I wanted to post a pic but I don't think that worked...Anywho I have put the bike completely back together (2nd gear) and even synched the carbs. The day I synced the carbs it ran great (2 weeks ago). Took it out today and it isn't the same as before...It just isn't running right today? (cant assume full power?) I will try a re-synch tomorrow but I have a question for you. There is a tube that connects to the bottom of the air box and goes down to the breather but this tube connects to a T joint before it hits the breather, and another hose comes out and connects to something? Does anyone know what that something is? (FYI, its not the coolant hose coming out of the breather). Thanks in advance for deciphering this more than confusing post.. Keep the rubber on the road.
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I was doing some work on the bike today and took off the fake gas tank lid and a lot of metal stuff seemed to look rustier that it did the last time I had the lid off, (it might have been last fall) While cleaning things up and wiping dust and residue off everything under there i noticed that the drain tube was off my battery, probably happned when the bike got laid over last fall. Screws for the air cleaner, metal rings to tie down the battery and even some of the plastic were rusted or had a harsh residue on it. So have a good look and reconnect your battery drain tube if its not connected anymore. For those of you with the glass Mat battery just ignore this message. Brian
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front fork lower guide bushing
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hey, Had the local shop pull the front fork to replace the leaky seals and they came back to me with news that the lower guide bushing needs to be replaced and they're not sure they can find it. I've looked around (online) and have found a "metal, slide 1" available from a number of places but no one lists the guide bushing. This is the one at the bottom end of the inner tube... it's pressed on to the tube. Anyone know where I might get one??? Help... I can't ride till I get one cuz they won't safety certify the bike like it is. And I REALLY want to ride. I'm almost in tear every time I see a rider go by... help, please... Mark -
I like loud. I have drilled the back of the muufler and still think its sounds like a 90 year old man snoring. If I cut out the rear plate on the muffler and pulled out the tube would I run into a problem with the carb mix and backpressure? Would it lean out too much?
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Does anyone have on their MKII the Chrome Guards for the Large Side Panels. If you do would you be willing to give me some dimensions. 1) Take one off your VR and trace the guard on a piece of paper. 2) Measure the diameter of the tube 3) Indicate on the drawing where the 4 mounting pieces go and their lengths. See Attachment. It might be a bit small. -
Attempted to install a VREDESTEIN T-TRAC TIRES SKU: VREDESTEIN T-TRAC TIRES-V1776 165/80R15 87 T that I purchased on at http://www.tiresbyweb.com for $126. It has a nice round shoulder to it along with a nice tread design. While installing the tire, the sidewall blew out somewhere between 80 and 100psi. After changing underwear, I found a Kumho powerstar 758 165/80-15 at a local Discount tire (they had a lot of them). It went on at 80 psi. We used a tube in the Kumho to reinforce the sidewall. I'm thinking this might be a good idea for any tire where there is difficulty inflating. I'm also using Dyna Beads to balance the tire, so putting dynabeads in a dry tube as opposed to an over lubed tire has merit. I am considering doing this with all of my car tire intallations. In looking at the inflation, it appeared that the tube helped to push the tire inflation "out" rather than "up". I might try the VREDESTEIN again with Tube. But now that I know where to get Kumhos, I am leaning toward sticking to these. I've used them on my VT1100 before with success. It's a good reliable car tire for bikes that need a 165. The ride and handling is very similar to the motorcycle tire. In fact, if you stand up the Kumho next to the MC tire that just came off, you will notice a similar shape....ie flat top.
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I was doing some spring maintenance this past weekend which included changing the spark plugs on my RSV. I took some photos of how I easily installed the spark plugs without worry of cross threading by using a plastic tube to start the threading and hand tightening. I know that I read this tip somewhere (probably here) but thought I would post a photo of it for those who may not know this trick. The handle at the top of tube is a nail punch which made it easy to turn the tube and when the plug was hand tight you could see it slip. Once hand tight simply pull tube off plug and torque to spec. As we all know a photo is worth a 1000 words - right?
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Just put on a new Avon, got about 3k on it. Bikes been parked for a few due to weather and it's totally flat! Filled it back up, lost pressure fast!!!!!! Put some soapy water around rim and sure enough, it is leaking around almost the entire rim. This happened once before, dealer had to r and r the tire, but it never completely stopped. This time the dealer put a tube in it to stop the leak. Any issue with running a tube on the rear tire?
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So, I finally got out to do an oil change on my Sear's mower since I put it away last month. Couldn't find the oil drain so I broke down and checked the owner's manual. Yikes!!! You have to remove the dipstick and then...get this...turn the mower over to get the oil to pour out the fill tube! Oh...and it says to move it around to get all the oil out! That may be fine with some people, but Arnold Whatsisname I am not. What kind of dipstick (Pun intentional, sorry!) would design a motor that way? Could you imagine having to flip your bike upside down to drain the oil? Or any other fluid? Of course, my Sear's snow blower has a drain tube. But...it's just short enough that it drains onto the edge of the drain pan unless you lift the front and hold it there till it's done! Geez!! What were they thinking? Or were they thinking? Oh well, it's done and I feel better after my rant. Next is the bike oil change (Two of them) since I've finally had to put them away...too much salt on the roads around here already. Andy
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Does you tube always Take so long to load or is it just my pc Hard to watch some of these post take forever. Watch a few seconds wait a few minutes watch a few seconds wait a few minutes by then I forgot the begining
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Dealer just completed warranty on the 07 RSV replacing the cylinder head gaskets front and rear. I have found what appears to be a vacumm hose disconnected beneath the fuel tank. I can't tell where the rear connects, however the forward end of tube is long enough to reach the air cleaners and perhaps more. Idle is not smoothe and there is a vibration getting up to higher rpm's. Once you reach mid to high rpm's it smoothes out. Mechanic stated it is a vent tube and stuffed it back under the tank. The end of the hose physically is expanded and looks to have had a clamp on it originally He did a carb sync and it seems only slightly better. Next step is to remove the tank myself and determine where the hose originates on the connected end and go from there. I don't see specifics on the vent tubes in the service manual, however I may be missing something. Note: The checked the valve adjustment at this time as well, 30K, and stated all were within spec. It was running great before their having worked on it. Appreciate any suggestions/guidance here. -
I picked up a screw in my rear tire (original Michelin Commander). I really like that tire, lots of miles left, can't find this tire anymore. I have plugged a roofing nail before on another tire, no problems. But this was a fair sized screw, dead center of tread, straight in. Tire is not torn but I don't trust a plug to keep air. Simple question,, is it safe to put a tube in the rear tire? (2006 RSTD stock size)
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The '86 upper fork tube is the same part as the '83 upper fork tube, right? Thanks, Doug
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how do you put a youtube video in a post....or....put an email in a post that contains the you tube video
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I know I have asked this question before but, I've had to replace the fork seals...again and I forgot how much fork oil you put in each tube with progressive springs. I know George S knows if he sees this post because he has told me before.
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OK I have a question. On the right side of the bike (when sitting on it) just above the window that you check your oil in there is a little tube (about the diameter of a wd40 straw and about as long) coming of a little plug type thing. Is this a vent tube of some sort or should it be hooked to something. I have never noticed it before and it runs forward and down like a vent. Open for info please advise:whistling:
