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Showing results for tags 'tread'.
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My rear tire has worn out, no big deal there. However, on the edges beyond the almost bald center the remaining tread has a patter worn with the leading edge of the tread being higher than the trailing edge. I noticed that I was getting noise in cornering that got louder as the tire wore down. Overall, not a big deal but I am wondering if this is an indication that my rear shock is starting to misbehave. I see no signs of leakage and with 40 psi in the shock, the bike handles okay. Any advice would be appreciated. R. -
which side does the radio arial go? is it the one with the male tread or the female tread
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Anyone warranty their avons? Tires bought last year, Venom X tires, premature cracking on both tires. Rear has one crack at the tread that looks deep and appears to be leaking air slowly.
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Just wondering if anyone else has seen this kind of wear patern from a rear e3 , i color one of the dips in the tread, tire has around 17,000 miles on it. its more on the left side of the tire. right side shows just a little wear .
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3:15 pm, Dunkin Donuts in Geneva NY. Midnight with Aluminum Diamond tread trailer. Didn't have time to stop and check it out. Anyone here in Geneva today?
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Ok, I am sorry, but it is tire time and I need some information to order. I have found the best price at Dennis Kirks. Beat all others by $ 79.04 . So now for the right front tire question. I have found a rear Avon Venom 42 in the same size as the front. But this tire, Avon Venom AM 42 has greater tread depth 11/32 compared to the same size in Avon Venom AM 41 tread depth of 7/32. AM 41 Front (On front of the bike now 11,414 miles and down to tread mark.) Dimensions: Inflated Width/Measuring Rim Width: 6.3 in./3.5 in. Inflated Diameter: 25.2 in. Acceptable Rim Width: 3.0-4.25 in. Deepest Tread Depth: 7/32 in. Balance DOT: No Directional Arrow: Yes-Front Wheel Speed Rating: H-Rated up to 130 MPH Capacities and Construction: Load Capacity/Inflation Pressure: 761 lbs./42 PSI Load Range: B Bias or Radial Ply: Bias Tread Plies/Material: 4 Nylon Sidewall Plies/Material: 4 Nylon DOT Approved for Road Use: Yes Tube or Tubeless: Tubeless-Can be used with a tube --------------------------------------------------------------------------- AM 42 Rear but in same size - almost identical but with greater tread detph and heavier load capacity Dimensions: Inflated Width/Measuring Rim Width: 5.9 in./3.5 in. Inflated Diameter: 25.4 in. Acceptable Rim Width: 3.0-4.25 in. Deepest Tread Depth: 11/32 in. Balance DOT: No Directional Arrow: Yes Speed Rating: H-Rated up to 130 MPH Capacities and Construction: Load Capacity/Inflation Pressure: 906 lbs./49 PSI Load Range: C Bias or Radial Ply: Bias Tread Plies/Material: 3 Nylon/2 Aramid Sidewall Plies/Material: 3 Nylon DOT Approved for Road Use: Yes Tube or Tubeless: Tubeless-Can be used with a tube ------------------------------------------------------------------- This information was copied and pasted from Dennis Kirk web site. I believe it is correct. Has anyone else tried the AM 42 rear on the front, after all, the biggest difference is the tread depth and sidewall. AM 41 - sidewall 4 nylon - tread ply 4 - nylon, AM 42 - sidewall 3 nylon but tread ply material of 3 nylon/2 Aramid. I am replacing front and rear, 11,414 miles on them of both. Both worn out. Rear worn to the threads in two different places due to when I locked it up twice to avoid accident with people pulling out in front of me.The front is down to the tread wear marks, almost smooth across the tread mark, but with very little 1/8 " tread depth left. -
Having followed a lot of tire threads, I still have a question. Why isn't there any true tread on most of the tires for our ventures? Daryl
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I had the bike on the lift to do some repairs and noticed a small 3/16" deep slice/gash in the sidewall. of my Elite II. I recently replaced a virtually new Avon due to a nail that friends convinced me to replace... Dang, this is getting old. It says the sidewall is 3 plies. Still lots of tread on this sucker. I know I should probably replace it and be safe but are the wife and I really worth the expense? I'm in a dither with this......thoughts!
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Hi guys. I'm reading that a 165/80 is the prefered size for our bikes. Is this because it is basically the same as the stock tire or will nothing wider fit? I like the unidirectional tread patters available on several 185/65 tires and it's only a 5% difference. Has anyone ever tried a 175 or 185? thanx
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Looking for folks' opinions on tires that they have found to perform well on wet roads. The OEM Bridgestone's were a bit greasy on the wet roads. When they wore out, I got Dunlop 404's. They have held well on the wet roads, however, the rear 404 is ready for replacement and only lasted for 7000 miles. Traction is more important to me than mileage, however, I would like something that would get me closer to 10,000 miles. As we all know, the concept of traction on dry roads is rubber contact and traction on wet roads is tread configuration. While the Avon Venom's and the Dunlop E3's look like great dry road traction tires, they seem to be a little short on tread configuration for wet roads. Your experiences with tires that performed well on wet roads is appreciated. Please provide both your traction opinion and service mileage. Thanks, Phoenix
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In preperation for a ride up the Blue Ridge Parkway I checked the tires. Front tread OK pressure OK. Rear - tread OK (not great, but OK) pressure a little high. 48lbs. End result - the guy behind me was looking for the man with an elephant gun. Blowout at 50 mph. Cord showing in three places and 2\32 tread inbetween. Bike was loaded but didn't feel any out of balance bounce. Tire had 4500 miles on it. DO NOT overinflate Avons.
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Found this tire on FleaBay. Would this be a good choise for my RSV? I sure like the bigger lugs and tread pattern. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-NEW-165R15-TIRES-FRONT-RUNNER-RACING-165-R-15-DRAG_http://i.ebayimg.com/08/!BUdlbp!!Wk~$(KGrHgoOKicEjlLmZ3G2BKNpOwr(r!~~_1.JPG
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Ok, just wondering, if a trailer is older than 3 years, had not been used much, would you still replace the tires regardless of the good tread left? Just wondering, thinking about an older trailer in good condition, just concerned about the tire age.
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The E-3 installed 12 mo. ago now has 5720 miles on it. Center of tread measures, 1/4 inch of depth. So far, so good
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My rear tire, a Metzeler ME880. 8 or so of the lugs are starting to lift. The damage is visible inside the carcass as raised lumps, but they are too slight to photograph. These tires were on the motorcycle when I bought it so I don't know if they were abused or the mileage. They have about half the tread left.
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thought i checked my tires this year pretty good but the other day i just happened to glance at my rear (tire) and noticed a crack deep in the tread after removing the tire this eaving i noticed 3 cracks deep in the tread one of them about 3 inches long i believe its a delamination of the tire i had the dealer order a new one today and i'll bge taking this one in tomarrow and see if they can get me some kind of warranty.
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here is an interesting article from IN THE SADDLE Get a grip How often do you take a really good look at your tires? Once a week? Once a month? Only if there’s a problem? “Tires are the most critical part of a motorcycle because they’re the only thing between you and the road,” says Patrick Fletch, service manager for Budd’s BMW Motorrad in Oakville, Ontario. If your bike’s tires aren’t well maintained, or if they’re poor quality to begin with, it can spell trouble when the rubber hits the road. If something goes wrong with your tires when you’re riding, it can have immediate and devastating results. “Regular maintenance will help keep your tires performing the way they should, and keep you safe,” adds Patrick. Here’s what he has to say about how to keep your tires in top shape. Check your tire pressure “Correct pressure is the key issue when it comes to tires because it’s overlooked all the time,” says Patrick. “I suspect that 30 to 40% of all riders never bother to check their tire pressure.” Low tire pressure not only affects tire life and fuel economy, but proper handling and braking. Overheating could lead to a blowout. Try to get into the habit of checking your tire pressure every time you fuel up. If you use your bike mostly for commuting, check your tires at least once a week. Tire pressure should be checked when tires are cold and they should be set to the manufacturer’s recommended specifications. Never exceed the maximum load indicated on the tire sidewall or listed in your manual. Equally important is your tire pressure gauge. Make sure that it is calibrated correctly, otherwise you can easily fill your tires to the wrong pressure. Take it to your dealer or a qualified service centre for comparison on a regular basis. Or, have them install a tire pressure sensor that will alert you to the changes in air pressure. Watch for tread wear If there’s not enough tread, or the tread shows signs of uneven or unusual wear (such as flat spots or feathering), you could be heading for trouble. A worn tread in combination with wet surfaces can cause poor handling. An easy way to determine when your tire should be replaced is by looking at the wear bar on the tire tread. Most manufacturers recommend that tires should be replaced when a minimum 1 mm (1/32”) tread depth remains. Look for tire and rim damage Tires take more abuse than any other part of a motorcycle. You should inspect tires for damage every time you take your bike for a ride. Look for visible damage such as abrasions, cracks, bulges, and splits in the sidewall or tread and punctures from nails that your tires have picked up along the way. Damage can occur when your tire forcefully strikes a solid object that you may not be able to see. Take it to an authorized service centre for inspection. The condition of your rims is equally important as they have a direct impact on the life of your tires. For solid rims, check for dents that can create air leakage or affect the balancing weight. If you have spoke rims, Patrick recommends that you have a professional replace broken spokes and tighten loose ones. Buy current tires “Another thing that gets overlooked by riders is the age of the tires,” Patrick says. “You should buy tires that are current-year production.” Because they’re a petroleum-based product, tires continually break down. The rubber compound will get harder over time. Patrick estimates maximum tire life at two to three years, regardless of whether the tire has been in use or sitting in a warehouse. “Be careful when you’re looking for a deal on a new set of tires,” he warns. Before you buy, check the age of the tire on the sidewall stamping. And never mix tires that don’t match, such as a radial with bias or bias-belted tire. It can dangerously affect your motorcycle’s handling characteristics. If in doubt about what tires should be mounted on your bike, always consult your owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer. Ride smart New tires have a slippery coating that should be properly “scuffed up” to get an optimal grip. That generally means no hard cornering or braking for the first 160 km. “It’s also very important that riders take time to know what new tires feel like, especially if they have a different tread pattern or are made by a different manufacturer than their old tires,” advises Fletch. If you look after your tires, they’ll look after you.
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I've posted about this before, but this seems like a good time to cover it again, just as a caution. I absolutely love the Avon Venom tires on my RSV - so far, they are the best handling (in all conditions) and best wearing tires I have tested. BUT, there is one thing I have never been happy about - these tires have absolutely NO margin of safety left at the bottom of the tread grooves. When that last hint of tread groove is smoothed off, there is only the barest wisp of rubber film left above the first layer of cord. Yes, we all know that you should never run a tire beyond the tire wear indicators, but I sure would like a little extra security under there anyway! Case in point is my recent trip around the Texas border. I had close to 10,000 miles on the rear tire before I left, and it still looked real good. I usually get 14,000 - 15,000 from an Avon rear tire, so I thought I had enough to make the trip; however, I also watched it carefully every day. We hit some really rough road surfaces in places that felt like riding on a cheese grater, and those did take their toll; however, all still looked safe Saturday morning when I headed out from Squire Vance's place south of Houston. But a hundred miles or so later on the ferry from Galveston to the Bolivar Peninsula, I noticed a spot where the tread groove was just disappearing, and I could see the slight beginnings of shredding that shows the tire cord is about to poke through. Since I had run these tires before, I knew what was going to happen very quickly, so I decided the best course of action was to head straight home (about 350 miles) instead of trying to finish the trip (maybe 800 miles). Now here are the pictures from that tire when I got home: [ATTACH]27931[/ATTACH] 350 miles before there was NO cord showing on this tire [ATTACH]27932[/ATTACH] Same tire, opposite side. Notice the layers showing between tread and base. This tire was out of balance when I took it off, with the heavy spot opposite the worst wear. But there is no way to know if that caused the wear or was simply the result of the wear - after all, there is obviously less rubber on the worn site, so that must make it the lighter side of the tire, right? My point here is to impress how quickly the cord will show through once you hit the bottom of the tread groove on these tires. If you look at the second picture, you can see that the long tread grove that crosses the center of the tire is just at the bottom, but right next to it you can detect the slightly different look of the lower layer of rubber that makes up the body of the tire. That's what I meant by "no margin of safety" below the tread groove. Always best to change those tires (any tires) as soon as they hit the tire wear indicators! But if you are on the road and wondering how far you might be able to push it to find a new one - you aren't going to push an Avon very far. Ride safe, Goose
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This is the Federal car tire that I am running on my 2006 RSTD. There have been many questions by members who are running other tires and some who are considering changing to a car tire. As you can see, there is plenty of room for the tire and after 6,000 miles it still has over 3/16" of tread left. I don't remember exactly what the original tread depth was, but I believe that I will get 20,000 miles out of it. (That is if my back heals before the tire dry rots.) It is 1 ply polyester on the sidewalls and 2 ply steel belted under the tread. I don't know why different tires with the same ply exibit a different amount of stiffness in the sidewalls, but this tire was stiffer than the Kuhmo I saw in side by side test. I chose this tire over the Kuhmo because of the stiffer sidewall and overall height and over the B F Goodrich because the white lettering on one side did not appeal to me personally. There are members who run both of the other tires and like them, so I am sure they are equally good tires. I hope this helps some of you who are considering a car tire. Jeff
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Please say it ain't possible! I was out in the garage tonight, pulling my old rear wheel bearings, and I noticed a crack in the tread of my tire. Not much of one (but dang sure enough to catch my attention), just about 3" long running through a tread gap around the circumferance of the tire. So I rolled the tire around a little more and 1/3 around the tire from the crack was a ck that was every bit of 4" long and it made no difference to the tread where this crack was, and again this one was running the circumference. Seeing as to how I bought this bike used last July, I have no idea how many miles have been logged on this bike. I know that I have logged 1000 miles on this tire with no ill effects, thank God. Obviously, I've got to replace the tire before I trust it to ride again. My question is, what would have caused it in the first place? I've heard nothing but good on Dunlops and nothing but bad on Metzlers, yet my best tire right now is my Metzler on the front. My assumption is that this bike possibly sat on this tire while is was flat for an extended period, but since I have no contact information with the original owner, I have no way of knowing if this is the case. Am I too far off on m assumption? Thanks! -
Been surfen the post about tires. looks like Avon is the choice:think: After looking at the tread design on my new RSTD I am not a happy camper:mad: I had Dunlop's OEM on my VTX 1800R which ran good in rain, steel grates & high speed but @ 7K they were wearing:mad: My question is: Does Avon make the sizes that are OEM on the 2008 RSTD? Did not see any on there site:shock3: So what I need are a 150/80-169(71H) Radial front & a 150/90-15(74H) Radial rear:think: Or a brand with the Venom R type tread design:happy65: Ron:325:
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Has anyone here tried out the Maxxis.com touring tires for the RSV. They look to have a good tread design and strong sidewall and weight capacity. Just looking for info looking to get new tread. Joe
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I removed the Avon today, as not enough tread left for the Calif Trip next month. Will keep it mounted on my spare rim. Ok I installed the New Dunlop E 3 ( MU90B16 ) today. Cleaned up the rim, used Vasoline on new tire and rim, mounting was quite easy with standard hand tools. Removeing the AVON, was not easy !!! I measured the tread on new tire, 5/16 inch at center, and 1/4 at edges of tire. I also measured the caseing thickness, as best I can measure it seems to be 1/2 inch thick, plus the Wearable Tread thickness. The tire Tread is 5 Ply, ( 3 Nylon, and 2 Fiberglass) The tire Sidewall is 3 Ply, Nylon Max loading is 937 lb. at 40 PSI cold. Dunlop sells this in the belted model, and the Radial. ( Radial sizes won't fit 1st Gen) I got the tire from RonAyers.com Greenville N.C. $113.95, which included the UPS to Seattle. So, will start milage tests with this tire. I put in a can of "Ride-ON " and went for a 20 mile test ride, All seems just fine !!! Time will tell. Also, anybody been running these tires on a Gold Wing, or know sombody that does use them on a Wing. ??? Would be interesting to find some Feedback from Wing users of these new E 3 Series Dunlops made for the Goldwings. ?? Or has anybody mounted one on a 2nd Gen ???
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Here's an interesting pic that I spliced together showing the tread profile of my old worn out Avon vs. the Federal SS657. Each tire here is mounted and inflated to show its actual profile. Obviously I couldn't have both of them on the same rim at the same time, thus the splice. I may have gotten the scale of the Federal a hair smaller than that of the Avon, but they're pretty close. The new Federal is more rounded than the old worn out Avon. Of course the Avon would be more rounded when it was new. So it looks like the tread profile of the Federal would about match the profile of the Avon when it was about half worn down. It looks to me like a CT is not too square to use and is plenty rounded enough to have a good contact patch in a corner.
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