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Showing results for tags 'traction'.
Found 5 results
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Forwarded to me by another member. Very good stuff to know. Street Strategies, David Hough "..quickly reach for the front brake and squeeze progressively with all four fingers to allow the weight to transfer forward before applying maximum front brake. Simultaneously, you step down hard on the rear brake pedal, but in the the panic you push down too hard, and the rear end slides sideways in the curve. Your survival rection takes over, and your right foot lets up on the pedal. In a split second, the rear tire grabs the pavement again, snapping the year end back toward the center so violently that the bike flips. You're catapulted off the bike, which tumbles down the pavement behind you. Miraclously, you slide to a stop without getting run over, and your smart decision to wear your leathers even on a short trip pays off. Deciding to do a quick stop was smart, too, and your technique to brake progressively helped prevent a front-wheel slideout. Overbraking on the rear should not have prevented you from stopping effectively, even with the rear end sliding sideways. It was your survival reaction to let up on the rear brake that caused the violent high side flip." Ride Hard Ride Smart, Pat Hahn "How many people really know how to use their brakes? Many riders avoid the front brake for fear of flipping over or locking up the front wheel and losing control. This is an uninformed and dangerous mistake. Under extreme braking on a two-wheeled motorcycle, the front brake accounts for 75-90 percent of the bike's stopping ability, and does so with mind-boggling authority. As the brake lever is squeezed, weight is transferred to the front tire, increasing traction and stopping power, which allows the rider to squeeze still further. As more weight is transferred forward, more traction is transferred forward, more traction is available, allowing the rider more braking power. As the motorcycle loses speed and the front end decompresses, the weight begins to shift back toward the rear tire, allowing the rider more grip from the back. But by now the bike's stopped, and you're in first gear, ready to scoot out of the way of the car approaching rapidly from behind. You knew about that because of your mental strategy--you were aware before you made your emergency stop of who was behind you, how far back they were, and how attentive they were. That, and you could hear the screeching tires. .... Like swerving, this isn't something you read about and then execute whenever you need to. It, also needs to be learned and practiced. An additional note on swerving and braking: they absolutely must be separated from one another--they cannot happen simultaneously. You can either swerve or brake, but not both at the same time. Each maneuver uses tremendous amounts of traction, and the traction available on a motorcycle is limited. When you push your motorcycle beyond that limit, the result is usually a crash. Here your mental skills again come into play: You must decide beforehand whether you will swerve or brake, or if you need to do both, when you will swerve and when you will brake, and how you will separate them to maintain control of your motorcycle."
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Ok so the real question is, can you run two different brand/tread pattern tires on the front and rear... The main reason I am asking is because I am thinking of switching to a M880 and I currently have a Bridgestone on the front. The Bridgestone still has about 1/2 the life left in it.. I have heard mixed stories about traction, handling, and well all out safety..... Some stories I hear is that it's fine to do, and others are just NEVER do that!!! What do you all think... Thanks JM
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Looking for folks' opinions on tires that they have found to perform well on wet roads. The OEM Bridgestone's were a bit greasy on the wet roads. When they wore out, I got Dunlop 404's. They have held well on the wet roads, however, the rear 404 is ready for replacement and only lasted for 7000 miles. Traction is more important to me than mileage, however, I would like something that would get me closer to 10,000 miles. As we all know, the concept of traction on dry roads is rubber contact and traction on wet roads is tread configuration. While the Avon Venom's and the Dunlop E3's look like great dry road traction tires, they seem to be a little short on tread configuration for wet roads. Your experiences with tires that performed well on wet roads is appreciated. Please provide both your traction opinion and service mileage. Thanks, Phoenix
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I love the Kumho that I installed. Here are the advantages. 1. Handles better 2. Rides smoother 3. Cost less 4. Replace less often 5. Makes the women fall all over you 6. Increases sex appeal by 78% 7. Better traction 8. Did I mention the women? Seriously, has anyone else noticed an improvement in turning radius or is it just my imagination?
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Been reading about a gizmo that sounds a bit too good to be true. Has anyone here tried that TCB (Traction Control Brake) that attaches to you Banjo bolt? Sounds like it might work but I'd like to hear from someone who actually has one installed.
