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Showing results for tags 'toggle'.
Found 10 results
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I have a 2004 second gen. and had replaced temp sensor last summer, however, on today's ride, the fan is not kicking on when it should. Can a toggle switch be installed to kick the fan in manually? Any suggestions as to why this is happening and what to do to remedy?
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2007 RSV, been mine nearly 3 weeks. All the lights worked for a while, I assume the rain might have affected something, about 1.5hrs in the rain, noticed a couple days later no passing lights, so maybe or maybe not related. The lights are good, all the fuses that are shown in the owners manual are good. I have a push button switch just left of the 12v acc. plug in the dash that I think may be for these lights, there is no toggle on the light housing like some Ive read about. I can see 2 red wires that arent in the harness going that direction, but I stopped before taking anything loose on the fairing. What is involved to look at this closer? anyone else have a setup like this?
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I have a 2008 RSTD and want to add spotlights. I purchased as set that were original equipment to early 2000's Indian, which has the turn signal built into the bottom of the spotlight housing. They mount fine on the RSTD spotlight bar. Does anyone have a diagram of how these get wired into the right circuit? I have seen where RSTD owners have added a toggle switch for on / off. Where do folks mount that toggle switch? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. R.
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Again, thanks for all the help yesterday. I got the wires spliced and bought a 50amp toggle switch as per the tech. library. Question is, I had grip heaters and already have a toggle switch mounted on the plastic cover over the gas cap. I have no idea how many amps it is? It was mounted to heat my grips and had both a low and high setting. I no longer use the heaters and have removed them, but left the switch. Can I us this toggle switch instead of mounting another? Do I really need a 50 amp switch?
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I've added a few accesories to my '06 RSTD. (Disregard picture date stamps) The first picture is Baron Sub Sonic Tach. I did not have to lengthen any wires to install. Second picture shows the Kuryakyn LED voltage meter. Following the advise of past posts here, I ran a dedicated (#16) wire from my relay contact to the meter. I wired the coil of the relay to the RSTD supplied accessory wiring lead (under seat), so the relay is made when the ignition switch is in "ACC" position. Meter shows one green light with the engine off and two green lights with the engine on - passing lamps on or off. Third picture is a Garmin Zumo and a clutch side switch from www.BigBikeParts.com . The switch came with three toggle switches. I removed the center one, enlarged the hole and added a www.Powerlet.net socket. Powerlet also supplied the plug to the Zumo. The Dealer had installed the Passing Lamps as part of my negotiations. I removed their crappy wiring and useless lamp mounted toggle switch. Rewired to the 1st toggle switch of clutch side switch (2nd toggle for "Future"). Power for this switch is from the same relay as volt meter with a dedicated #14 wire feed. Now my headlight and passing lamps are on different fuses. Forth picture shows Garmin Zumo and Clearview windshield. The red button on the Garmin mount is to toggle the Tach's LED light colors. Fifth picture is a Powerlet socket mounted to the plastic cover. It is wired in parallel with the clutch side switch off of the relay. Sixth picture is the Garmin mount removed. Seventh picture is of two Powerlet sockets mounted on left side in front of saddle bag. These are wired direct (fused) to the battery. Plug the Battery Tender Jr. in here with Powerlet supplied adapter. If I ever get any heated riding gear, I've got a plug. Last picture is under the seat showing Powerlet fuses and added relay. I like these Powerlet (BMW style) plugs. They are smaller than a cigarette plug and carry more current. I think they will become the standard for motorcycles. In the mean time, I have a Powerlet to cigarette plug adapter.
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I want to install a toggle swith to bypass the ign switch for emergencies. I know where to hook up.... My question is. What Amp Toggle switch do I need? Will a 10amp be large enough? Thanks for the help Reaney
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Can anyone tell me what i would need to install 5 "l.e.d." pods on my bike. I want to put a toggle switch on with it??????
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I've put 1300 miles on my '84 Venture in the last 2 months. The previous owner had put a toggle switch on the dash for manually turning the radiator fan on/off. As the air temp is now gotten up over 60 degrees with warmer weather, I've had to switch the fan on more, as I expected. Well the original toggle switch froze up and stopped working, so I replaced it with a spare accessory toggle switch I had from my car. It worked at first but now seems to stop working intermittently. When caught in traffic a few times, the gauge will push just into the red, but no signs of boilover or overheating, but with the intermittent on/off problem I can't kick my fan on. Then I'll get moving and it drops down into the green. Do I need a special heavy duty toggle switch or something for this? Why does it work sometimes? What readings do most of you have in warmer weather and when stuck in traffic?
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I know this subject has been beaten to death, I am no electrical wizard and I've read the fix for the ignition switch, what I'm not sure of, the 2 red 10g wires going to the toggle switch, is one connected to the Brown/Blue and one to the red, or is the Br/Bl and red joined together and then the two 10g wires attached to that. My ignition would come on when the key is between the Acc and On, but when it went to the On position the dash cut out but radio still worked. I was trying to loosen those screws that hold the switch with a hammer and punch...I was a millright we were good with a hammer...and now the switch is working again, I've tried wiggling the key and off and on and its still working. So was it a contact problem and would putting in this "Emergency switch" solve the problem should it occur again. So my dilemma is do, I leave it or wire in this toggle switch. Advice Please. Ian
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I know it is way too warm to be thinking about the juice the carb heaters pull if they EVER come on again, but what better time to prepare for the coming cold weather? In case you don't know, the carb heaters on the RSV pull a total of 60 watts of power, and that is an awful lot when you are riding in cold weather and want to use other stuff like extra lights or heated clothing. Here is a very simple mod you can do that will let you turn off the carb heaters any time you like - typically this would only be in very cold weather after the bike has finished warming up. The carb heater thermo switch is under the right battery cover, right next to the radiator overflow tank. In this picture it is the nondescript item in the rubber cover on the right side: [attach]20088[/attach] The blue item on the left side in that picture is the carb heater relay. This is a "normally closed" relay which is activated by the neutral switch. When this relay comes on in neutral, it cuts the power to the carb heaters. The two black wires coming out of the thermo switch connect through bullet connections to a black/white and a black/yellow wire. It really makes no difference which one you chose, but I unplugged the black/yellow wire (it is the wire running directly to the carb heaters). You can see the new blue wires I used to connect a small toggle switch in -line. The toggle switch is mounted in the black plastic cover behind the battery on the right side, near the rear shock air valve. [attach]20086[/attach] [attach]20087[/attach] That is all there is to it! Just make sure that the switch you buy can handle 10 amps at 12 volts DC (if you can only find a switch rated at 125VAC and 250VAC, you are generally safe with a 10A @ 125VAC rating). By using bullet connectors on the new wires you can just insert the switch in the circuit without cutting any wires or making any permanent change to the bike wiring. Goose Optional - you can use a 12v LED (Radio Shack) as a circuit-ON indicator. If you connect it on the Thermo-switch side of your toggle switch, it will indicate when the bike wants to activate the carb heaters (meaning they may not really be on if your toggle switch is off); if you put it on the carb side of your toggle switch, it will indicate when the carb heaters are ACTUALLY on. I positioned my LED between the seat and the tank, just sticking out of the rubber tank cover. In this location, no special mount is needed, just stuff it under the ribber flap. That way I can look down to see it if I want, but it is never annoying.
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