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Showing results for tags 'tighten'.
Found 23 results
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well i got retired from my job this morning. what a shock. they cut the night shift and i am officially home permenantly to harass my wife. this is my second retirement, so i guess it will be my last. time to tighten the belt and enjoy these so called golden years. lots more time to work on the 2015 rally.
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My RSV has a coolant leak, under the left aft cyclinder cover. It is not coming from the cover bolt holes, but what I think is the cylinder drain plug (looks like #1 in the center picture on page 3-35 of the service manual). This 'plug' has no internal or external wrenching feature, but the center is threaded. Can I tighten this plug to try to stop the leak? How do I tighten it? Can I just thread another bolt in there to tighten it? Or will tightening the cylinder covers push it in to hold it? The bottom cylinder cover bolt was loose when I disassembled it.
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Put a new starter (V-Max 1200 4 brush) on my 84VR. Using silicone as a gasket material on sidecover however when I tighten the sidecover the starter drags really bad to where the wires want to get hot. It seems when I tighten the top screws on the left it starts to drag. Any ides?
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Brake Pads binding on rotors
KenP posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Recently I replaced both front rotors with EBC drilled ones, along with new brake pads. I noticed when I tighten the axle nut to the specified 72 ft/lbs. of torque, the wheel does not spin freely. I follow the order of tightening the different areas that the manual recommends. When I put the nut on hand tight, it does spin somewhat freely, but still binds, just less than when I tighten it down. I do have an upgraded fork brace installed. Braking all around is much improved over the stock rotors, however I am just concerned that the binding btwn the rotors and pads will do some damage. Anyone have experience with this issue?? -
My right muffler on the 91 VR is loose. I grab the tail pipe and the entire unit easily moves side to side 1/2 to 1 inch. I've tighten the bolt to the frame, and I've tighten the clamp at the juncture point. It appears that the movement is at the clamp for the juncture point. I've taken the entire right muffler off at the juncture point for the muffle and the end of the exhaust pipe all look good. The nut/bolt and clamp has more room to tighten but it is tight on the muffler. To go much tighter I would break the bolt. The left side is tight. On my 89 VR both left and tight muffler are tight and snug. Could there be a missing sleeve/spacer the goes over the end of the exahust pipe but inside the muffler? Also I noticed 5 lub fittings while I was under the VR. Before I grease them are there any more? Also any special type of greese reommended? -
OK...so what does the phillips screw (with the nut) do on the brakke lever? Also...how do you adjust it...If I put some clearance (space) between the screw head and the nut...and then turn the screw to tighten...THEY BOTH MOVE. Which means the screw and nut tighten to the same place every time. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Wally
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Ever since I bought my 99 venture the choke knob will not stay out keeps pulling back. I have to hold the choke knob, not sure if I need to tighten a screw but had the tank off and everything looks ok. Screaming Red:nanner:
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Is there a trick to tighten the front lower exhaust bolts? How do you get to them?
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My light bar will be the death of me.. 6 month after getting the bike the bar got loose and I could tighten it but man what a pain in the patootie to access those bolts properly etc.. Earlier this summer I stopped at a Yammy shop in Maine to get my shock replaced under warranty and they were kind enough to fix a wiring problem I had in the front.. but in the process they took the bar off, but appears it didn't get installed properly as I've been having to re-tighten it all the time and it never seemed to really tighten.. When I put the bike up on jack recently to do some winter maintenance on it, I noticed how very loose the bar actually is and that one bolt is completely loose.. It won't tighten yet it won't come out. I'll have to pull the whole front fairing off to access it properly but alas, I can't pull the fairing off if I can't get that bolt out to move the lights out of the way.. what the heck?! So the big question is: what part of the triple tree are these bolts actually threaded into? It always seemed that if I didn't get the bolt started at just the perfect angle they would simply turn and turn and turn but never tighten, then angle it a bit and boom it would tighten.. It seems there is something amiss other than a stripped bolt or dead threads back in there and I can't see well enough back in there to determine what the heck is going on. the two local Yami shops can't even figure out what bolts I need to order to replace the existing ones as apparently these bolts magically "poof" appear whenever they need to install a light bar.. Can anyone toss in some insight to this problem or even be able to help me acquiring new bolts for this issue? I purchased the extension block which move your light bar ahead enough to permit your fairing removal without taking down the light bar but once again I had issues installing this block because of that acute angle of the bolt issues.. I could never get that block to tighten up properly.. A most frustrating situation.. sigh... Almost to the point of ripping the whole dang thing off and buck-sheeing signal lights up to the fairing and adding highway lamps to the forks.. at least they won't come loose after a few hours of riding.. help!
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Need help to tighten passing lamp
Yamaman posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Ok what is the trick here? The passing lamp and turn signal on the right side has worked loose and I can't seem to figure out how to tighten it. It seems like I need to screw the passing lamp into the turn signal shaft, but it hits the fairing. Do I have to remove the whole assembly? And if that's the case, then how did it work itself loose? Very strange unless I'm missing something really obvious. -
Rick Butler did the Seat mod for me, (which I LOVE). Anyways, he kindly replaced my stock seat nuts with the 'finger' nuts. - I can't keep the blasted things tight. They keep unscrewing themselves. I think my fingers are too fat to get a good grip on them to tighten them good. I have some blue Locktight, would it hurt / help if I put some of that on there? craigr
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Picked up a whine from the rear of the bike from 55 to about 70. Suspect the pumpkin pinion gear nut may have backed off. Has anyone tighten this? What did you hold the ring gear with?? Dealer has ridden the bike and tech says 'I don't hear anything unusual'. If he doesn't want to tighten the nut, I'm not gonna make him. Too many other things he can hurt in the process. And as long as there aren't any parts involved, I'd rather do it myself. Even thinking of switching to a VMAX rear end. Lots of folks have been happy when they have switched.
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Quick question... I'm in the middle of reassembling the rear end of my 2002 Venture. Did the hub maintenance and pulled the driveshaft to clean and lube. Managed to get the front re-inserted but my question is about the rear. How can I be sure that the grease seal slides into place in the rear differential? Do I just put it in place and tighten it up? Don't want a bad seal or ruined parts if I force it by snugging down the acorn nuts. Thanks Ross
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I think I found why my antenna won't tighten down properly. It looks like the base bolt that screws up into the plastic base of the antenna is slightly bent, probably not allowing the plastic base to tighten down properly. Can I straighten it out or does the part need to be replaced????
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what kind of glue do some of you use to hold the new kuryakyn grip on , the one side I can't seem to get it to tighten completly.
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I am having a problem with my rear seat. I have a drivers backrest and needed longer bolts to install that with the rear seat. I thought I got the right size bolts, but they are obviously slightly different because I cannot get them to tighten up anymore. I have had the backrest on for about a year now and have only recently started having this problem. I tried taking the backrest off and using the stock bolts, but they won't tighten down now either. Any suggestions besides get a new mounting bracket for the rear seat?
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tonight after a short ride downtown I noticed my right exhaust tip was turned off to one side. I turned it back and when I got home I couldnt see how its held on, didnt see a clamp to tighten it was a bit dark under there in the garage
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I post just today about chasing Ghosts after a accident. I know I've whined about it several times on here but it was even worse than that. Every time I caught myself turning loose and riding a little bit I would tighten up again. Kept telling myself I wasn't quitting but the thought was there. Even avoided times I could have ridden this fall. And the thought was there in the back of my head. Maybe you don't want to. I rode to north Carolinia for the meet there and it wore me out instead of relaxing me like it used to. I have been tinkering with "UGLY" a little getting her right after the neglect from PV. Today I talked myself into taking her out to fill tank for winter to keep down chance of rust. As I said I have been tinkering a little and she was Purring. Filled tank and talked myself into doing a couple miles just to see how it was running. Temps around 40 and not dressed for it. Little chilly. Story is I was listening to that 1200 purr and suddenly realized I was riding pretty hot when a curve got a little tight. DID'T TIGHTEN UP!! Hit the next one a little harder. Found myself riding and laughing inside my helmet. QUIT?? Like He** I will. Oh "BROWN SUGAR"??? I Ain't hiding no more!!! Wanna Play?? You better be ready!!
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I PM'd Bill last night to see if we could mess with my bike some. He had some free time this morning so I took a putt over there. We (well he as all I did was watch) removed the AIS and then tightened the steering head bearings. The good news is no more cannon-like backfires and I actually have better handling now. It appears that the bearings were pretty loose, but it was a breeze to tighten them up. No more front end shimmy in turns . So, thanks again Bill, I appreciate all the help. That's what this site is all about. Helping each other out. What a great bunch.
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so ... the engine guard size must be larger than 1" diameter. I ordered a set of Kuryakan highway pegs...with 1 inch mounts. Now what? can I use them any way, and just tighten them down as far as they go?
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Did anyone every have the windshield on their 2nd Gen start to crack on them from the bottom up.Well guess what ? Mine is starting to crack (2) at the bottom .I had the inner and outer part of the fairing at the windshield replaced because it had broken (part holding the windshield) a little while back and I think they over tighten the screws holding the windshield. I`am waiting to hear back from my Dealer now.Wish me luck Eh ?
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This site has the most knowledgible people (How's this for suckin up), I'm hopin someone can help my brother. He has a 2003 V-Max. I rode it this past weekend and boy does it have front end wobble. I attempted to tighten the nut at the trippletree and discovered a locking shim down through the two big nuts. Am I going to have to remove the Handle bars and the top of the tree, to tighten up the front end??? This shim is a small square that fits in the slots of the two big nuts, and sits in there up and down, locking them together. Help! Saddle_Bag
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I posted this a while back on a similar post and I suspect what you are experiencing is an alignment problem. I have used a procedure for mounting a rear tire on any Venture that will align the rear end perfectly every time. I was told about this proceedure by a Venture mechanic back in 89 or so and have used it ever since. 1. Before removing the tire, put the bike in gear. 2. When removing the rear tire, loosen slightly the 4 - 14mm nuts to the rear member. This will also give you a little wiggle room to remove one of the wider tires. 2. With the tire off remove the 4 - 14mm nuts and remove the rear member and drive shaft. Grease the drive shaft splines and slip it back in the drive tube. This can be a bit tricky but feel for the inner spline U joint and move it up and rotate it where the drive shaft enters the U joint and the studs enter the holes. Put the 4-14mm nuts back on but leave them a bit loose. 3. mount the wheel into the rear member. Grease the axle lightly and slip it into the wheel through (1.) the large washer and (2.) the caliper bracket. Tighten the axle nut to where it pulls the axle through and snugs into place and then loosen the nut. With a 10mm allen wrench, you can rotate the axle. Turn the axle until you feel a loosest spot around the circumference of the axle. Mark this spot at the pinch bolt slit with a file for future alignments. 4. With the axle pulled through and snug, tighten the pinch bolt and then torque the axle nut to 110 lbs. This gets the axle and inner wheel splins into perfect alignment with each other. 5. Now go back with a good 14mm boxed in wrench and tighten the 4-14mm acorn nuts on the rear member in a cross pattern. This now pulls the drive shaft into alignment with the rear member. 6.You are finished with this part and can now put the caliper back on along with everything else that you took off. Now you really don't need to go through this entire process, but you do need to raise the bike where the rear wheel is off the ground and loosen everything up as follows: 1. Raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground. 2. Loosen the axle nut completely. 3. Loosen the axle pinch bolt. 4. rotate the axle until you feel the loosest spot and mark this spot on the axle at the pinch bolt slot. 5. Loosen all 4 - 14mm acorn nuts from the final drive assembly. Now you are ready to tighten it back up starting with: 1. The axle to the point the axle nut just starts to tighten. 2. Tighten the pinch bolt 3. Torque the axle nut to 110 lbs 4. Tighten up the 4 - 14mm acorn nuts in a cross pattern. If it's still making a clicking noise then take it back to the dealer and have them look at it. If the rear fluid was not flushed at 500-1,000 miles, then you might have a set of needle bearings going bad in the final drive
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