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Showing results for tags 'tight'.
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I just wanted to send a shout out to all my friends here. Everyone has been such a great help to me over the years here. A special thanks to Freebird for keeping us up and running in the internet world. *** I am here to help anyone I can. I pray you all have a wonderful and blessed Christmas and a safe and Happy New Year. Keep the bolts tight and stay between the lines everyone. We love you all and thank you very much for letting me be a part of this crowd. I am very blessed. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
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OK first of all this site rocks. Since I bought my 85 Venture I have found most everything I needed to know here. But I have a rear end issue that I'm sure is common. I was going to replace the gear oil in the rear end. Book says .3 of a liter or 300ml. Get a measuring cup just to see how much drains out. Get my allen head sockets and 19mm socket for the drain and sit on the floor. The fill cap on the rear, about half way up looks a little knarly but the metric allen slides in sorta tight. Give a pull with the ratchet and around it comes....ta da stripped.....I assume this should not be this tight. Tried the SAE a little bigger and tapped it in with a hammer...no good. Is there a easy fix for this? I could drill it out and save the threads and get a new cap. Only worry is that the filings would fall down inside!! Not good! As always looking to fix the most economical. But if I need to go to the dealer I will. Thanks everybody!!
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I've changed the filter a few time but ya know. When you assemble the spring goes on the shaft between the filter and the magnessium cover to keep the filter tight to the motor right?!! Total brain fart! Pretty sure I'm right:) Tx Brad:fingers-crossed-emo
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The cruise on my 99 RSV kicks out on hills and more easily riding 2 up. It did not work when I bought the bike and I have been through all the switches and diagnostics and found a carb cable out of adjustment a long way. My real feeling now is that I still have an adjustment issue and wondered if anyone felt that I have things too tight or not tight enough on adjustment tolerances. It seems that the cc can't respond fast enough and kicks out because of not holding speed up or down hills. On flats it's fine riding solo is fine also even in some small hills. Thanks for your thoughts.
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OK, here's my latest invention on how I plan to mount up to 3 accessories on the Handle Bar Accessory Turn Buckle Bar. Now that’s a mouthful. Each End is a 17 mm opening that fits over each 17 mm nut. First You turn the turn buckle to draw the ends in. You slide the left end in over the 17mm nut. Then slide the right end into the opening You grab the Right End then you turn the center of the turn buckle down. As the right end buts up against the 17 mm nut you twist the right end to fit over the 17 mm nut as you continue to turn the turn buckle. The two ends will extend out putting pressure onto the handle bars. The bar is milled at 7/8 inch. I will be putting the least strength lock tight on the turn buckle threads. The 17 mm openings on each end will be slghtly tapered so to make a real tight fit. I plan to mount my GPS, Ipod, Cell Phone.
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Spring is finally here. The temperature us up to normal for the first time in nearly a year. Today I had to stop at a crosswalk and watch a tall, long legged, good looking blond in high heel sandals, very tight, very short, shorts and very, very tight tee shirt strut her stuff past. I love spring. Things are busting out all over!
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I do not have any more. Two additional members have showned interest so I'll start a 2nd Group order. Pricing will depend on the order quantity. Your posting here is not a committment to purchase but just an interest depending on the cost. Lets temporarly set 7 April as a cut off day. Please post here if you interested in one. ************************ 1) The threads that are cut on the tool to go on the Speedometer are cut to match the threads exactly so there is so very little room for grease to make its way out the threads. He took measurements of the origional coupling threads and the threads on the speedometer. 2) The tool is screwed onto the speedometer several, several, several times so the grease has a long way to travel before it could come out the coupling threads if it could get past 1) above. 3) The tool can also be screwed onto the speedometer so far that the end of the speedometer can actually seat inside the tool to the end of its thread. but it is not recommended to screw all the way till it is seated for you will want to leave about 1 full turn left to give you wiggle room in case the grease fitting nipple is pointed in the wrong direction. 4) The threads on the other end where the grease fitting screws into was cut with a flaired threading the last 3/4 of a turn so to also give more wiggle room in case the grease nipple is pointed in the wrong direction. I recommend putting lock tight on this thread. I included a procedure instructions so one can align the tool with the lock tight. Then to remove the tool and allowing the lock tight to cure before using. When I used my tool, It pumped easy at first to fill the void with grease then I felt the resistence. I'm not a real strong person but I gave it one good solid hard pump. I was squeezing so tight that my hand and arm shook before grease came out the fitting where the grease gun goes on.
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I was doing some spring maintenance this past weekend which included changing the spark plugs on my RSV. I took some photos of how I easily installed the spark plugs without worry of cross threading by using a plastic tube to start the threading and hand tightening. I know that I read this tip somewhere (probably here) but thought I would post a photo of it for those who may not know this trick. The handle at the top of tube is a nail punch which made it easy to turn the tube and when the plug was hand tight you could see it slip. Once hand tight simply pull tube off plug and torque to spec. As we all know a photo is worth a 1000 words - right?
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We got this bike in late December, and got it ready to ride by Jan.1. Got it with 28 miles, now it has 3500 miles. So far I have changed engine oil 3 times. The first was when we got it, second at 700 miles, then at 3000 to Shell T6 full synthetic. At 3K I also went to shell synthetic gear lube out back. It seems to me that even before the switch to synthetic oils, I could feel the Venture loosen up. I think I actually felt it "break in". At first it felt kind of tight, and after I revved it, the rpms would drop back too soon. Now it feels like the sky's the limit with engine speed. Has anyone else noticed this "loosening up"? What a great feeling. Man, this thing flies.
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My breather plug is seeping on my '89....I noticed in the shop manual this plug can be replaced.....anyone done this before? Can the plug be pulled out w/ a pair of pliers or the like, or is there some special tool required? Considering how tight it feels, I wonder if I can get it our w/o breaking off a part of the plug. Thanks in advance, Greg -
I made some leveling links per freebirds instructions and installed them Sunday. It's hard to believe such a small change can make such a huge differance, but it does. The one area I have been disapointed in with the RSV is the slow speed handeling. It has been a real chore in some instances. Well no more! The bike is more nimble and acually feels lighter while doing slow speed manuvers. I went from strugling to do a U-turn to being able to ride tight circles and figure 8s in tight quarters with little effort. I'm sure this will mean better handling in the twisties. I'll test the twisties this weekend. If you havent done this mod, DO IT!
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My right muffler on the 91 VR is loose. I grab the tail pipe and the entire unit easily moves side to side 1/2 to 1 inch. I've tighten the bolt to the frame, and I've tighten the clamp at the juncture point. It appears that the movement is at the clamp for the juncture point. I've taken the entire right muffler off at the juncture point for the muffle and the end of the exhaust pipe all look good. The nut/bolt and clamp has more room to tighten but it is tight on the muffler. To go much tighter I would break the bolt. The left side is tight. On my 89 VR both left and tight muffler are tight and snug. Could there be a missing sleeve/spacer the goes over the end of the exahust pipe but inside the muffler? Also I noticed 5 lub fittings while I was under the VR. Before I grease them are there any more? Also any special type of greese reommended? -
I have been working on my leaking clutch slave all summer. Made the mistake of "having" to have speed bleeders on my clutch slave. That lead to a sheared off bleeder screw, replacement of clutch slave entirely. Now I put on the new clutch slave with the bleeder screw that it came with and had a heck of a time getting the seal tight enough to draw fluid. With much help from here and plumbers tape I got a tight seal and and the clutch working. Now I have the same leak from around the bleeder valve. It can't be tightened anymore. So, how do I get the seal tight enough around this bleeder screw so that it doesn't leak? How do you bleed out the line losening and tightening and keep the seal tight enough when you are done? Can't believe I have to pull the cover, drain the oil, losen up the clutch slave just because they design these things that you can't unscrew the bleeder screw the hole way out. Crazy. Appreciate your help. Sorry for my attitude. It is the 4th time I will have the clutch slave off this summer.
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I'm doing progressives on my 88 I'm trying to drain the front forks. I'm using a 19mm hex and reaching way up inside the bottom of the fork. BUT....it feels REALLY TIGHT and I've turned it probably 20 turns and it doesn't feel like its getting any looser. Is the plug really that long? Is it possible to be stripped but not get more free as I keep turning it? Could it just be the seal that makes it feel so tight? I'm almost afraid to try the 2nd fork if I've somehow screwed this one up. Is there an alternative way to drain the fork.? Man I wish I knew what I was doing!!! It's scary stuff when you've never done this before! Every nut and bolt is an adventure LOL
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i have a fairly new e-3 on the front of my bike. last few times i rode it ,taking off when i get in the 15-20 mph range the front end has a very noticeable wobble to it. get above that speed and its gone.? checked front end all`s tight and good,check balance of tire-ok? cant really see any thing wrong here. anyone ever had this? iam thinking tire but it was fine for 1400 miles before this started.
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ok after getting parts from members on here and working in a hot storage shed i put the radiator and hoses back on the bike. just not sure how tight i got everything? i dont have much feeling in one of my hands i got all the clamps tight i hope? now just a quick and maybe dumb question? is it safe to test just useing water instead of anitfreeze? i can drain the water witht he drain valve if all looks good after the test and replace with proper antifeeze. as the cost of antifreeze just to watch it hit the floor can be a little bit expensive when your unemployed and on social security....
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Hey All, my "Sweet Thing" has found a new owner, and home in TX. Yesturday Evening, Old School heading back home to TX from Northern Michigan. I will miss that Beautiful 03 RSV. Best Motorcycle I have ever owned!!! I know Ray wouldn't ask, but ...he has a long way to go, and is tight on time and money. A stayover at one of our members might help him out. It would also be great if some VR members jumped on their bikes and rode with him a bit. Later-
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I have received the parts to upgrade my 99 venture clutch and also bought a new horn from Harbor Freight that I would like to get some help with putting on. Also bought a wrench form Dingy to tight my steering. Please post when is the best time to meet with all of you and thanks again for offering to help. Dana
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I have received the parts to upgrade my 99 venture clutch and also bought a new horn from Harbor Freight that I would like to get some help with putting on. Also bought a wrench form Dingy to tight my steering. Please post when is the best time to meet with all of you and thanks again for offering to help. Dana
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hey,need some feed back on these headsets. j&m-hs-8154b-ff or the imc-hs-g-140. i know that j&m make the 279 and the 629 which are both a lot better but things are tight right now and the cheaper ones come with the lower cord. thanks
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One of my carb slides have separated from the diaphragms Now, if I should glue it, how tight should the seam be? One the other slides I can rotate the diaphragms! Since even pin holes are affecting performance I guess that it must be pretty tight! If I use superglue between the steel insert and the slider, will I ever be able to separate them again?
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2005 ford escape 4 wheel drive I want to take the calipers off the front...2 bolts ....should be pretty straight forward BUT..... 3/4" is sloppy, 11/16 to tight 19 mm is sloppy, 17 mm to tight I have 2 sets of metric and 2 sets of standard tools and neither have anything in between. Am I missing something?
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Alright...i'm having a problem and need some advice....I recently lubricated all the hinges and moving parts on my saddlebags...NOW, my right saddlebag will latch closed BUT after riding for a few minutes it pops open. I was able to duplicate this by hitting the bottom of the bag a few times and i can easily get the latch to pop. I have taken it apart and put it back together. Everything was tight and it is still doing it. I have not seen anyway of making the latches tighter and i'm in need of some help. This didnt happen before i lubed them so im thinking the lube has to wear off but im hoping someone has an idea...
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So, What was the verdict on your valve shims? How many needed to be adjusted and were they tight or loose? Do you notice a difference in the way it runs, if so, what difference?
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Read all the stuff on valves have the manual, looked at doing it myself. I am pretty good wrench but! Just pick it up from the dealer 3.5 hrs @ 85 bucks shims included if need. Talked with mechanic only 1 intake tight. He said it took better part of a day to do. Money well spent! $297.50 96 royal star boulevard Kregg
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