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Showing results for tags 'tap'.
Found 19 results
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I was installing the clutch slave cylinder on the 83, and when I went to snug up the bottom bolt, the threads in the block stripped. Any ideas how to fix them good enough to tighten up the bolt? I checked and it looks like there is about 1/8" or a bit more of good, unused threads left down in the blind hole, so I may try and see if I can find a bolt that is a little longer and see if there is enough left to hold. I don't think a heli-coil would be very easy to install. The female threads in the block are about 6" inside of the bulge in the stator cover, so I'd have to find a way to extend the installation tool. Also, the threads don't start at the surface, they are recessed about 1/8" so that the bolt will act as a pilot bushing also. The next best alternative that I see is to tap it for a larger bolt, probably a 1/4"-28 and open up the hole in the cylinder a bit. The Yammie bolt is 6mm or .236". I'll still have to come up with a way to extend the tap though. I haven't looked on the Grainger site yet, but do they make a tap extension so you can reach into recesses? Anybody ever have any luck with Devcon or something like this? Barb and I are leaving on the 89 Thursday, so it'll be sitting for a bit. Frank D.
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I removed the nut that holds the upper handlebar in place and machined a nifty little stub fom a piece of 303 stainless to go back in its place. 10x1mm are the threads on that nut and curiously enough that is not a common metric fastener but I did have a tap. After screwing it on in place of the nut I wished I had made it longer but I can always make another to go on the other side.
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I take it this is really loose? Now , when I loosen the top nut a hair, do I use the screw driver, on the lower nut? and tap it up, or the top down? My reason for the question is: The front end feels sloppy over 65
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Since I just picked up this 85 Royale I have a question regarding the "intercom". The intercom shows on the audio controls but I do not see any plugs for it for the head gear. Is there any easy way to tap in, or for that matter to actually know if they bike is equipped with an intercom system? newbie thanks you Scott
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Pro Fix Stripped Threads The way I have always done stripped bolt holes is to install a HeliCoil. It is a thread replacement device that you drill out and tap the hole for the Helicoil to be installed. This lets you use the original size bolt. You can pick up a kit that will contain the Coil, Drill bit and tap. They are available at most Auto parts stores. If unsure what size you need take a bolt with you and match up. The link below is a site that gives good info on use and installation http://www.repairengineering.com/helicoil.html
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Who would be a source for an apparently Odd bolt thread tap. I'm looking for a M12 x 1.25 thread pitch and evidently it is not popular enough to be included in any of the tap and die sets I have been able to find so far. I have already checked Sears, Harbor Frieght, Northern Tool and NAPA.... No luck
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The rear wheel roller (left) bearing inner race (aka collar) won't pull out easily from the bearing, and I'd like to grease that bearing. Do you usually have to push it or tap it out from the right side? I'd like to get it out without damaging the bearing. Thanks, Frank D. -
I've swapped out my signal lights to some decently insanely bright LEDs and have a pair of Load Equalizers to take up the load to make the signal lights flash at the normal rate etc etc.. One for the front and one for the rear lights.. However, though I know which wires go where, I do not know the best location to tap into the wires for this.. Can someone who has done this before be able to point out to me where best to located the wires on the bike to tap into for the best (note easiest) access? Thanks in advance. Cheers -
i need to know what size tap drill a 1/4 " npt tap takes. can't find my machinist book and can't remember what size it takes.
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OK,I got an I Phone 4.When I go to Venturerider.org I get a pop up that says something like "TapaTalk can be used with this sit" or something like that..I loaded the APP byt still do not see what it does and still get the pop up..Question,What the heck is "Tap A Talk"
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Hello Everybody, Shadow here. Can anyone tell me how I can remove or rather drill out a broken tap? It is in the foward rear fender bolt hole. Long story, but the head on the bolt striped when trying very carefully to remove it. So that entailed drilling out the bolt but, my bit did not come out center on the inside of the fender. So I took a tap and slowly with oil proceeded to tap new threads. Almost to the end and the tap breaks. I guess it's case hardened cause drilling it even with new cobalt bits seems futile. I've been at this for most of the day. I can't take the chrome fender rail off because the other bolt holding the fender won't turn. They have the red loctite on them. Funny thing the other side bolt came right out. I know heat would help with the loctite but how do you heat inside the fender without removing the rear wheel or hurting the paint. I just need to know if anyone knows, do they make a better or harder drill bit than the cobalt? I still think drilling the tap out is the best way I just need a drill bit that will cut it. I'm sure I'm not the first one of us to break a tap or easyout that had to be drilled. I appreciate all ideas.
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Quickstep is installing my thumb brake (replacing back brake) and needs a question answered please Which two wires does he tap in to- to get brake light?? (rear):confused24:
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Hello all, I've mounted a set of Pyle speakers, USB charging port, MP3 shelf, and volume control along with 2 RAM handlebar mounts (pics to follow) and have all of the wiring run back to install the 300 watt amp and USB charging port to power. I don't want either the amp or the USB charger to operate with the bike off - neither have "off" switches - and I'm looking for the best place to tap into the electrics. There is a white plug behind the battery with black and brown with gray stripe wires. I've not yet broken out a multi meter but I'm hoping these will supply hot & ground for a tap. If someone could confirm this (and to what amp fuse it goes to) I would be grateful. If there are any other places to tap in I would appreciate knowing where and what color, pix a huge plus. For my "always hot" connections I use a powerlet tap direct to battery so I have that covered. -
Jusy thought you (and others) would like to see how that clutch slave cylinder that you donated for the project bike came out. Cleaned it up and honed the bore and ran a tap thru the threads. Polished the piston and buffed out the housing a tad. Reassembled and Viola...
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The last two times I rode the bike Ive been getting a knock from the engine. Like a tap tap tap sound that goes away or so it seams when I rev it up but at idle it sounds like some thing wants to come through the water pump cover. I wanted to make sure it wasnt something else so I changed the oil back to the amsoil that I usually use. I used Spectro the last time and it had never been there before. Well the knock is still there and It concerns me so much that I wont ride it that way. Anybody have any ideas? Should I pull off the cover and last but not least is this something that is common. I been here quite a while and havent seen any threads on this but maybe I wasnt looking. I did do a search but frankly the search here is not the best
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I know I had seen something out here a while ago about this, but couldn't find it. Anyways, the brass outlet tube was weeping a bit and it popped out when I pulled the fuel line off. I understand that it is a pressure fit, ok to tap it back in as is? Use a little sealant? Or replace the whole thing? Thoughts or experiences, thanks.
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Does anyone know where to find the power wire that feeds all four coils? The hot licks kit I'm installing has to tap into it to kill all coil power on the motor and lite the exhaust.
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My bike is in the shop for warranty work but plan on wiring an XM radio, the roady 2, once it gets back to me. my question is I want to hard wire it in but have heard that the best idea is to wire it into something that only comes on with the ignition keyed. Any recommendations on what to tap it into?
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Who else cut the cassette for the amp? Where did you tap into the speaker wiring?
