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Showing results for tags 'tag-a-long'.
Found 6 results
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I wanted to "personalize" my HF Tag-Along so over the winter I painted it. Tried to get a red as close to the bike as I could but with cans from the store you have a limited selection. My pin striping could use more practice but from a distance it looks okay to me. I've had concerns about being able to adjust the tongue weight on the trailer too since the box didn't extend that far behind the axle. Especially with a cooler on the tongue I've had times where I'm sure I was well over the recommended tongue weight. What I've done to give me more leverage is move the box back 4 1/2". My neighbour (who also did my cooler rack) had a portable welder and brought some steel plates over and welded them in behind the L brackets that come with the trailer. The plates already had holes in them and it lined up perfectly with the box. Attached are pictures of the results.
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Ok, It's 3:00 AM and I haven't gone out to the garage to measure the ID of the tongue tubing on the Tag-a-Long. I know the OD is 2 3/8". I've been tossing around the idea of the longer tongue and ran across something that hadn't come to mind yet. Anybody else done a tongue mod this way? Instead of welding onto, or replacing the entire tongue with a longer section of tubing the idea of using a 2x2" OD tube to slip inside the original tongue, much like a reciever hitch, using the original receiver mounting holes to secure it in place and add the desired length. All that would be needed is a new receiver to fit the smaller tubing and to add to the length of the wiring harness. Seems quite simple. Any thoughts? I've got an old co-worker putting together the angle iron needed for the frame of a cooler hitch like the one in the pic.
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Always cracks me up. Well, as long as it's not costing me a bunch of money to make right. I just bought a dang near new HF Tag-A-Long right. I got it cheap enough. I knew when I looked at it I had a few things to deal with. The coupler was crushed into the tongue as the PO had not used washers to shim the couple and it has pulled in so tight the latch for the ball would not move without being pried down with a pry bar. I had to remove the hitch and the latch assembly to get it over the ball when I hooked up. Got that corrected today. One handed hookup now. When saw the trailer the first time I knew something was not right with the wiring. I'm no whiz kid when it comes to electrical but I was pretty sure there were too many wires coming into, through the frame and into the tailight housings. I was right. More than needed. There was an extra wire with a female crimp on connector that ran forward with the 4 wire trailer plug. My best guess at first glance was maybe an extra ground wire. I chased it today and it ran through the frame and was spliced and split into both taillight housings. Holes had been drilled and the wires ran inside. I pulled the lens off both sides and it all made sense. And extra 1156 bulb had been installed in both housings. Not to mention one of the 1156 bulbs had come apart and was laying in the bottom. I hooked up a fused jumper wire and powered the extra wire from the front. Blew da fuse. Pulled the wire and it was cut into where the wire ran thought the holes in the frame with zero protection. Nice. So I can kind of understand the thinking here...... maybe the PO just wanted a couple running lights at the rear. Went the hard way about it in my mind. Now when he hits his lights he had (2) 1157's, (2) 1156's and (4) 194 wedge bulbs lit up. Then add the brake lights and the voltmeter has to be taking a nose dive into the red. I'm seeing why the PO may have been happy to trade off the damn near new Tag-A-Long and be done with it. Can't hook it up, throwing sparks and some lights had quit working and the battery was probably taking a beating. I got to admit, I'm enjoying the old "His loss, my gain" moment. Oh, and I checked the zerks and one was not only missing but a plug had been installed in the hole. Nice touch. Mike
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I just bought a HF tag a long trailer and would like to know what things I should do to it to make it better befor I assemble it. I know alot of people use them so what should I do. I was told there at HF that they are not going to carry them any more.
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I recently posted another thread describing my 4424 mile ride to Michigan, towing my Harbor Freight trailer. Towing the trailer was largely a non-event. It felt very smooth behind me, and didn't impact me but for a couple hard stops where I felt the mass pushing me. The hubs always felt cool to the touch. I did have several issues that I would like resolved before my next trip in September. The first is a vibration. The contents of the trailer wore very fast. I had the shell of my wife's helmet wear off, exposing the inside. (I will replace it now) Our air mattress wore a hole; I guess it touched the very long bolts inside the trailer. (I need to cut them off, since they are probably jutting out a good half inch.) Drysacks look thin and worn. Pots and pans have shiny places, etc. The locks vibrated apart--twice! I had to replace them on the road. What causes vibration like that? Second, the tires were bald and showing cord by 2000 miles. (see photo) I had to replace them in the rain in Marquette. The Wal*Mart people wouldn't touch the trailer, but they did lend me tools to do the job efficiently. I was back on the road inside 45 minutes. Now, my new tires look almost the same. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/4828385750_ce7696deed.jpg The guy at the Wal*Mart tried balancing the tires. They zeroed out despite the small size, but used 2.5oz on one tire, and 2.25oz on the other! I thought the out-of-balance caused the vibration, but that I still got vibration on the remainder of the ride. (Things inside got even more worn.) What causes this wear pattern? I was under inflated leaving home, and the guys at Wal*Mart made sure they were at manufacturer specs before they gave me the tires. Still, they are worn and I need new tires. I did pull at 70mph almost all the time. The last issue I blame on the Oklahoma construction. My license plate was almost literally torn off the trailer. The left corner was gone, including the bolt, and the right side was cracked and about to come off. I hit a "bump" at a bridge on a resurfacing project, and I think perhaps the trailer was severely tossed. Oh, and with the Wal*Mart inflation, the trailer bounced a lot. Any ideas? Should tires need replacing every 2000 miles?? Dave
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i had the day off today so i thought id put my new trailer togeather; things started out good i took out the shell top and bottom set them on the lawn and went back took the fenders out and set them aside; now i started to asemble the trailer this went very quick with out even looking in the book almost done and i see a small inch and a half pice of black plastic in the box now im thinking the worst as i pick up my fenders and look for the broken one and there both still good well back to tighting all the bolts i have in the trailer and i go in the house to get a soda. on my way back out the door i see some dirt on my cover to the box OH NO its not dirt its a HOLE broken so i call harbor freight and they are very nice and looking up part #s for me and getting me a new shell lid and when talking to them i look at the bottom and its not broken but the corner is crushed in well now the trailer is done and im waiting for the new shell for it SHHHEEEESSSSSSSS just cant win some days now the good news is in two weeks ill have TWO not ONE but 2 trailers for my lill scooter and you get pics when done Dray
