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Showing results for tags 'tachometer'.
Found 16 results
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Hey guys, New to the forum. Like the title says I'm having some issues with my 85 VR xvz12. My VR had run great for the last 2 years I've owned it, just had to fill her up, change the oil and go. But my son and I went for a short drive around central Washington and got caught in a freak rainstorm. We stopped and got under some shelter and afterwards the bike just wouldn't start. After about 2 hours of fiddling around with her, she just started up but ran like crap. The Tachometer was dead "at Zero", and she ran like she was on two cylinders. Got her home and blew her off with a leaf blower and wiped her dry. The following weekend, she was still running sick. So I pulled the battery and checked both coils (primary and secondary check), pickups, spark plugs, spark plug cables, emergency cut off switch, pickup coil, stand switch and the voltages were in the ballpark from my service manual. I then read a post from DonB about testing from the TCI connectors to see if there is a short in a wire, I followed his guide and didn't find any reason to think I had a short. So the old girl is still reading zero on the Tach, failing the fire on two cylinders, and starting is hit or miss. I'm at my wit's end really, I figure at this point it's the TCI. It sitting in its original horrible location, and I don't really know how or why I would want to take it out if I'm thinking about ordering a new SPARKER TCIP4 from IgniTech. Is there anything that I'm missing or have not thought of. I have scanned this forum pretty hard. PS: with the massive amount of information on this forum I'm gonna have to pony up the 12 bucks -
Now sorry too post this long issue here. It's just about 3am here and I haven't had the greatest of days. It is Tuesday the 21 of June. Have received a lot of help from a different site called venturers dot org. You can search for Tach power there and a couple Pages in you will start to see my posts. Nickname iSpeedyG. If you do a YouTube search for Speedy G with Venture1 or Venture 1 you might come across about 9 videos of my hell. The final 2 "the day she ran" and the link I am posting below. Seems I have developed a new situation that maybe someone can help with. It's not normal to ask but I'm dead, exhausted, pissed and really in a need of something positive to happen if you think you can help please don't hesitate to reply or even call. Life has been a little trying lately bb when you get to my page you should be able to see venture video of my problems. I'm a tad bit overwhelmed at the moment.
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So I successfully installed an el cheapo tach from Harbor Freight. Basically I used the cheapie as an excuse to create a wire harness for a nicer tach in the future. I used the yellow wire from the right rear coil as suggested by coop for the trigger and ran the other wires into a length of 3/8" split flex tubing, under the tank, up to the triple trees where I'll be installing a 4-5 pin plug. For now it's hard wired, but you get the idea. The tach works "perfectly", smooth sweep and very responsive. The yellow wire was an excellent choice, thanks coop! My question is, does my bike idle at 400RPM? I thought I read somewhere they idle around 1000ish. Or no? The rev limiter is set around 6000RPM but on this tach, to me, 2000RPM is painful...I almost never push that hard before a shift.. I think it reads low...confirm? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4MMoKy6I3Y
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Noob here. I apologize if this has been discussed somewhere else but I couldn't find anything. I recently acquired an '89 VR that's been triked. Old barn find with only 81,000 miles! Plugs, fluids and lots of TLC and it's running now but still needs the carbs synced. I've determined that the speedo is fast by 5 - 7 mph at road speed, but from reading the forum posts, that sounds pretty normal. I'm not sure the diff ratio is proper. What speed should I be showing at 4000 rpm? It's indicating around 63-65 which is actually a bit shy of 60. That's comfortable but can get you run over in traffic! The fuel mileage has been awful but is improving with a couple of cans of Seafoam and about 500 miles under the tires. Last fill-up, I got right at 30 mpg. Still idling at 1200-1300 after it warms up. That seems high to me. Any ideas and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
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Digital Tachometer Question
EnJay posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I'm wondering what make/model digital tachometer is being used out there for diagnostics. I have an 84 VR MK1 and need to make some adjustments that require a digital tach. Before I make a purchase I would like to see what you guys are using and whether you like it or not. So; whatcha using? -
After a series of ignition issues I have most of them resolved. New plugs, plug caps and wires have made all the difference. I also removed and split the TCI. The diodes are in perfect condition so I left them alone. I re-flowed the solder in the pin headers and put it back together. The bike fires up, runs just fine right up to the red line. Before I did this I was having an issue of cylinder #2 not firing, and the tach behaving a little strangely. Cylinder #2 would quit, and the tach with it (sometimes). Now it's all back together the four cylinders are all playing nicely but the tachometer is dead. This may simply be a dead tachometer. What I was wondering is whether or not there is any way of testing the ouput on the grey wire from the TCI (tach signal). Is there anywhere else I should be looking too? Thanks
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Anyone have a PDF version of the instruction manual for the Electronic Specialites 325 clamp-on digital tachometer? My printed version has grown legs....
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A while back I remember a thread about a tachometer program for a pc that used a microphone to determine the rpm of and engine by listening to the sound of the engine. I had the program downloaded, but never got a chance to try it out before I lost it. Now I can not find it again for life of me. Does anybody remember it and know the link? Bill Never mind, I finally found it here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38904&highlight=tachometer+program
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Hi everyone! So I figured that I wanted to make my first post a good one, so here it is. Pics at the bottom. I had been looking into my options for a tachometer for quite sometime and was rather unimpressed with the steep price tag and the style of the available motorcycle tach's. So I did some internet hunting and found a company based out of Michigan that makes Retro style tachometers for classic and muscle cars. You can find them at Classic Instruments. I thought to myself, oh now wouldn't that look good on my RSTD. Before I knew it, I was whipping out my cards to make a purchase online. With a lots of humming and hawing about which model to get, I ended up getting the All American Nickel 3-3/8" Tachometer and the chrome cup insert. Total $198US. Took about 4 days to ship to Canada! Not bad eh~! http://www.classicinstruments.com/images/products/AN80SHC.JPGhttp://www.classicinstruments.com/images/Tach%20Cup.jpg Once I received my new purchase I went to work right away. However, I had to really think about where to mount it, how to mount it and how to get it to work. So in case if anyone is wondering, read on. First off, where to mount it. I have a Uniq Cycle Classic speakers system (long story, I have the system but I currently waiting for a replacement amp because the first one was faulty. Not happy with those guys.) that will occupy the left and right portions of the handle bar, so that was a no-go. I decided to mount it dead-center about the speedometer display because that would give me enough space to not interfere with the windshield. Second, how to mount it. I was stumped for a while on this one. One of the problems was the chrome cup insert was far too long. If I were to mount it, the tach would stick way out over the front of the speedometer unit. I noticed that the tach itself was quite a bit shorter than the cup, so I decided to cut the cup insert down. I cut about an inch or so from the opening. I also cut down the screws (the ones that you bolt on the wiring to) on the back of the tachometer to shorten it down some more. After the trimming work I had reduced the length on the tach enough for the front of the gauge to sit flush with the speedometer unit. I spent a good amount of time trying to figure out a way of fixing the tach to the top of my speedometer without having to drill holes or welding to the pretty speedo casing. So I took an old stainless steel stirring ladle from the kitchen and went to work bending it into shape. I apologize for not taking step-by-step photos of the process, I was just... lets say... in the groove. I ended up bending the ladle with a slight arc, following the curve of the speedo casing, and a sharp 'S' shaped bend at the end. I drilled a hole in at the end of the 'S' shape and easily mounted it to the one screw that holds the speedo casing in the front (if you stand right in front of your bike and look at the speedo casing, you will see the bolt). The ladle works perfectly because it has a slight curve to it already and it follows the curve on the speedo casing. I then took the cup insert and the ladle and welded them together. I would assume that you could use some kind of adhesive or jb-weld. But since I have a MIG that I am always trying to find uses to justify its purchase, it was quick work . It was a simple one bolt job from there to permanently but non-destructively fix the tach to my bike. Third, the wiring. Not fun trying to figure this one out on your own. I will just write down what was the winning combination. Then tachometer has a 4 position selection screw on the back for calibrating. 4 cylinder, 6 cylinder, 8 cylinder, 12PALT. Sorry V-Twin friends, this mod is only for us!. I basically ran a wire from the 'signal' terminal on the back of the tach to the ignition wiring. It runs with many of the wires that are located above the ignition coils. The one you want is the only wiring harness that is made up of just two wires, white and black. I hooked up the signal wire to the white wire, set the tach calibration to 12PALT and SUCCESS! For me, the 12PALT setting works. It does act a little funny at about 4000 rpm while accelerating, where the needle with suddenly retreat slightly and the advance forward. Now I know there are other ways to set up the tachometer. Classic instruments sells a multiple ignition coil adapter gadget, or there is this one that you can build yourself. I'm going to live with my setup because its totally livable in my books. I also wanted to have a nice clean look for the tachometer wiring, and didn't want any ugly wiring exposed. I tried to look for some nice 'chrome' plastic wire covering but couldn't find any. So I ended up going to the plumbing section at the local Canadian Tire and buying a 20" braided steel flexible hose. I cut off each of the screw ends and slipped the wiring through it (I bought a pack of trailer automotive wire while I was at crappy tire for the tach wiring). I slipped one end of the steel hose through the rubber grommet that is supplied with the tachometer and the other end of steel hose around the speedo unit and into the steering cover. From there you just wire up the tach + and - terminals to the auxiliary wiring harness that is located under the seat. I also jumped a wire from the + terminal to the 'light' terminal on the tach, which keeps the tach light on all the time. I will try to take some night-time pictures. From there I just bought a small tube of silicone caulking/adhesive and put it around the rubber grommet, braided steel hose, tachometer and cup, and between the bottom of the cup insert and the speedometer casing. The last one is important, it prevents the tach cup assembly from scratching the speedo casing, and it eliminates and noise from vibration. The tachometer unit does not interfere with the windshield in any way so it can be used with or without it. One thing that I did notice that when I went for a ride on a hot day, I got a bit of condensation on the inside of the gauge glass. I remedied that by drilling two holes on either side of the gauge just behind the glass. This should prevent the build up of condensation. It also allows you to use a can of compressed air to clean any condensation that may build up (and it works really well too!). All in all it was a successful modification. I am really happy with my cool retro tach, its easy to read (due to its large size) easy to see placement, and its lower price point. http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8552.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8554.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8553.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8545.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8547.jpg?t=1275937176 http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/phertwo/retro%20tachometer/IMG_8564.jpg?t=1276000546 -
Allrighty. I'm taking orders, if interrested. Please allow 3 - 4 weeks delivery. http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3040&title=dash-gauges2b-tachometer&cat=7
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Does anyone know where I can purchase a clamp-on tachometer? I know a lot of websites sell the Electronic Specialties 325 - but I am trying to get away from duties and brokerage fees and would perhaps like to pick one up when I am down in Buffalo, NY later this week. Are they available anywhere in Canada? I haven't been able to find them anywhere up north here.
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Just found a very economical multimeter with tachometer that some of you may be interested in for work on your bikes - it's from Harbor Freight, item 95670, and the price through 12/26/08 is $24.99 (normally $34.99). Here is a link to the item for more info, but the price is in the current retail flyer. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95670 Goose
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any one using a tach ? if so what kind ?
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Anyone have their tachometer move slowly mine just started and also my running/brake warning light is on now and all my lights work . Any ideas????:bang head: -
Riding into work today, my '88 Venture Royale suddenly lost it's tachometer reading, mostly. It comes on occasionally. At the same time, the engine kind of lost control of it's speed, at least it would rev up and down with the throttle held at the same place. Made it very scary to corner, not knowing it would keep a steady speed. Any ideas on what is wrong? The cruise was off. The charging system is OK. There's gas in it - not full, but should be enough, so it shouldn't be surging the gas tank, though it felt a little like other bikes have when the fuel is about to cut out. Fuel Pump? Some kind of ignition problem? I'm not sure it's safe to ride home, even though it's only a few miles. Does the tachometer get it's signal from some component that controls fuel or spark? Becky -
My Multimeter has a tachometer function on it.....My Question is where would I hook the leads = red and black, without tearing my bike all apart.....I realize an inductive pickup would be easier but mine doesnt have one...
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