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Showing results for tags 'switches'.
Found 19 results
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I wanted to add a couple of new switches, but I wanted the switches to be accessible by my thumb without moving my hand. Two push button switches. 1) for my Walmart special 55 watt really small lights that I hooked to the mirror brackets. This to get the attention of whom ever I feel the need to see me. Its a push switch. Push it, it is on. Let it go, it is off. 2) I plan on adding on a couple of rear white LEDS, with same kind of switch.
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Finally took the plunge, and ordered a HID kit. While I had the front of the bike open, I decided to jumper the reed switches, for future considerations. I've seen all of the posts concerning the jumpers, but not on an 85 CMU. My question is this: Do I jumper all 4 of the reed switches, or only certain ones?? Thanks!! Bill W.
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Ok guys tired everything I can think of for my intercom. When plugged in have sound from the CB and radio. But can not transmit on the CB or talk on the intercom. Checked all the switches used different setting, and nothing. even changed the headsets and still nothing. Could the intercom control head be bad, even though it switches from head set to speaker with no problem. I even turned the intercom button on and off and this changed nothing.
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All of these safety switches I just cant get the starter switch to work, I still start the bike but I have a switch hooked to the starter relay (solenoid) and the + post on the battery. It works but if it doesn't start right away well all those amps going thru a 10 Gage wire the smoke starts puffing and soon there's fire. I bought a new right hand throttle Assembly from a site member so I'm sure the starter switch is good. All the possable relays and safety switches are mind boggling, kick stand,clutch,neutral switch on and on. On my riding lawn mower the first thing I do is bypass them. Is there any way to bypass all these switches and just get the starter switch to work or a way to rig a switch up to get the job done. I know the switches are there for safety reasons but as far as I'm concerned if you don't know your in neutral or the kick stand is up you probably shouldn't be riding the bike any way. Any help would be greatly appreciated its been a tough few years and the funds are tight so I really need a cheap quick fix if there is one. Thanks Pete
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All, I have been researching problems with lights on the bike and have narrowed it down to possibly being dirty connections. Alot of posts say to spray WD40 and contact cleaner and that does a fairly good job, but my mechanic is suggesting that the chemicals will do harm to the plastic. He suggests dissasembling the switches, using files and sandpaper and cleaning them that way (if even possible, if they all come apart). What's the skinny on this? Has anyone experienced harm by using these products? Thanks, Woody -
Lower Temp Radiator Fan Switch?
DONATALIE posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Anyone tried the lower temp fan switches? Pros or cons? -
Just replaced all 10 switches on my radio circuit board. All 10 were bad!! Radio works great now! Memory locations program, it's all good. Got 'em from Mouser Electronics; http://www.mouser.com $.26 each Mouser p/n 688-SKHHAM, manufacturer p/n SKHHAMA010 6.0x6.0x5.0mm Fit like a glove, no mess, no fuss! Ordered on 21 Dec, showed up on the 23rd. If you need radio switches, go here!!
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I have made the following write up of the process of cleaning the front and rear brake switches and the clutch switch that came off of a 1983 Venture. The switches should be the same for the 1983-1985 models. The switches detailed are from a Venture without cruise control, switches from cruise control equipped bikes are different. Cruise control equipped switches will be similar to the 1986-1993 switches shown in another post. The pictures show the switches completely removed from the bike. If you are unable to open the PDF file, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you. I have detailed the throttle side switch and the Clutch side switch in other threads. 38771.pdf -
I am in the process of installing cruise control on my 1983 Venture Standard. I have purchased almost all of the items I need to do this upgrade from ebay. Prior to installing the parts, I will be disassembling the ones that I can and cleaning them. I have made the following write up of the process of cleaning the front and rear brake switches and the clutch switch that came off of a 1988 Venture. The pictures show the switch completely removed from the bike. The switches detailed are from a Venture with cruise control, switches from non cruise control equipped bikes are different. These switches may be very similar to 1983-1985 Ventures. If you are unable to open the PDF file, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you. I have detailed the throttle side switch and the turn signal switch in other threads. 38049.pdf
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I am in the process of installing cruise control on my 1983 Venture Standard. I have purchased almost all of the items I need to do this upgrade from ebay. Prior to installing the parts, I will be disassembling the ones that I can and cleaning them. I have made the following write up of the process of cleaning the front and rear brake switches and the clutch switch that came off of a 1988 Venture. The pictures show the switch completely removed from the bike. The switches detailed are from a Venture with cruise control, switches from non cruise control equipped bikes are different. These switches may be very similar to 1983-1985 Ventures. If you are unable to open the PDF file, PM me with your email address and I will send it to you. I have detailed the throttle side switch and the turn signal switch in other threads.
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I've got a couple of buttons on my radio not working. I pulled the radio apart, the switches look pretty crusty. I'd like to replace the switches, does anyone out there have a part number for new switches??? Or somewhere to get switches??? I promise to take pics of the operation!! Thanks!! Bill W.
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Need some help. Anyone here know the difference between these 2 switches? I'm trying to install some LED lighting in my trunk so that when I open the trunk, the lights come on & when I close the trunk, the lights go out. Just testing the switches with the lights attached, I hooked up to my truck battery, but both switches turn the lights on & when the other side of the switch comes in contact, the lights don't go out. Regardless of the switch (open loop or closed loop), the lights are on whether in contact with the other half of the switch or not. What am I missing? Thanks.
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I keep seeing the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder Switch panels. This would solve all my switch problem at one stroke. I have two switches installed in my right hand dash cover as of now but they are a bit awkward in that position. I want to mount my digital volt meter in the dash where the switches are now and find a way to mount a switch panel on the left side handbar. I would like to have 3 switches or even a 4th one. They don't seem to have anything that's bolt on for a 1st Gen, Doh!, no surprise there but I was hoping that someone here has made a mod for something like this. Any suggestions? Mike -
So, it's Saturday, it's raining/snowing, I have nothing to do. Have my fairing split to install an extension to the Aux Audio line coz I removed the cassette and I was thinking about auxilliary power switches for things like driving lamps or whatever. Remembered seeing others with those chrome 3 switch boxes on top of the front brake reservoir (I like those) and also remembered the nice rocker switches below the gauges on the Harley Ultra so, I started fabricating and came up with the following.... First pic is the Factory "bare bones" cruise switch. Second 2 pics are the completed result. Rest of the pics are in order of build process. I had some flat 1/8 thick (appx) 2" wide aluminum that I'd used for something or another. I cut a piece 6" long. Used a cardboard template to determine the appx cutout below the cruise switch. Made the cut and then realized I needed tabs to mount it. Was going to use some angle brackets but decided it would be easier and cleaner to bend the existing aluminum so I had to re-cut (hence the "fixed up" pic). Also realized that the original size (using angle brackets) would hit somewhere near the ignition switch when the wheel was turned to pin. Made the bend and checked for positioning. Cut the holes for the switches ( appx 5/8 by 1 & 1/8 based on the rocker switch I used). I drilled a hole big enuf to get a jigsaw blade in and then cut to appx size with that...then used a file to finish off, checking often to get it just right so that the switch would pop in (forgot to take pics of the switches but I used the kind that have little "pressure tangs" on the back) I drilled 4 holes for mounting screws and used some short sheet metal screws and screwed them right into the plastic. I drilled small pilot holes first. After all the cutting, filing, and checking for fit was done, I smoothed all the edges, roughed up the surfaces, cleaned it with thinners and painted the bracket with a "textured metallic" paint (black of course). I toyed with the idea of smoothing and polishing the aluminum but I felt it would not blend with the overall look. Rocker switches mounted....not yet connected to anything but hey... one day they will be!
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I have found rocker switches, toggle switches, push button switches, water proof caps for any, mounting plates for multiple switches, but I have NOT found a single switch housing with two or three rockers/toggles. Does such an animal exist and if so where? Thanks!
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Does anyone have instructions on how to install the thermo switches. Photos would be great. There is a new one that will turn that fan on at 80 degrees. (Thank for that info tx2sturgis) What the other one is for, I don't know but there are 2 switches. Can anyone help with the installation instruction. Thanks -
Hi, I have an intermittent problem with my brake fluid indicator on the dashboard computerized diagnostics screen. Have verrified that my fulid levels are ok but sometimes get the dash (0) brake fluid low indicator coming on. It seems to happen vaguely associated with steep left turns but not all. The one pulling away from the stop sign at the end of the road at my dads place seems to do it. I winter the bike in my dad's garage and it has happened other years where first time out of there I get the indicator on at that turn. Usually it goes away on its own next ride and doesn't turn up again till the following year. This year however it has been happening more frequently. As I say I have the fluid levels all up to snuff. So I look in my bike manual at the schematic wiring diagagram and it shows the two brake fluid level switches are wired in series with one another to black which I assume is ground. Then in the trouble shooting section I read that to test the switches one should remove both from the master cylinders and test continuity across them. It says that when the swtich units are standing upright (picture shows wires at the bottom) in no fluid there should be zero ohms across them and when turned upside down (wires at the top presumeably), there should be infinity ohms across them. Unless the switches mount upside down, (manual doesn't say) I don't see how both things can be true. Logically, in a series circuit, you'd need both switches closed when all is well. If either of them sense low fluid they should go open interrupting the circuit. Yet the description seems to show the reverse. I tend to beleive the diagram. Any one know for sure which way is up? Any one have similar problems with brake fluid indicator ? I hear that the back of the computer monitor dash board thing is a common place for broken solder connections, I suspect that is where my trouble is, any thoughts? Thanks, Brian H Uxbridge Ont -
:confused24:I was just wondering if those who have a dyna 3000 on their rsv have used the number 4 or 5 advance setting? I just installed it this weekend on the third setting and didn't want to take it all apart again to get to the dip switches if I didn't need to. I am currently running K&N filterrs with drilled out exhaust with 125 mains and 17.5 pilots. Or is setting 4 or 5 too much advance?
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Does anyone know of a source for generic handlebar mounted switches for accessories? Thanks, Dave
