Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'surface'.
Found 10 results
-
I have an older Ryobi table saw that the top has a bunch of grooves on it. I prefer to have a flat smooth surface to easily glide the wood. Sometimes as it is the wood seems to stick to the surface. Any suggestions to make the top into a smooth surface?
-
The good lord blessed me with a lot of things but not long legs (29" inseam)...LOL I've been in a few unavoidable areas where I have had to back my bike up and it is impossible for me to do so while on the bike. Yesterday I found myself with the kick stand down, placing my backside up against the passenger grab rail and it worked pretty good... Got me to thinking, this is exactly how you pick up a bike that is layed over, using your legs! Now I need to find something i can bolt on to the grab rail or the side of the bike that gives me a little more surface to push against.. Any suggestions? -
This lady has a series of videos that are a real eye opener! This one is about 20 min...but I highly recommend it for anyone who might care about the world we live in. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLBE5QAYXp8]YouTube - Story of Stuff, Full Version; How Things Work, About Stuff[/ame] There are several others....The Story of Bottled Water, Electronics, Cosmetics, and one on Cap and Trade I do what I can, but I'm just scratching the surface and there is always room for improvement. I have strong religious belefs concerning the future, but without getting political, or religious I'd encourage discussion on this topic.
-
Can't wait to see my tire guy in Woodstock, who told me I'd never get more than 12,000 on my new Metzler's when I got them back in February. When I told him that I had over 15K on the first set, he said my records must have been wrong, or that I was just yankin his chain. Well, I just turned 18K on this set yesterday, and there is still some pretty good tread life left on them, maybe another 2,000 or 3,000 before it hits the wear indicator, especially on the front. I'll likely get new rubber again in February anyway, but these Marathon 880's have been great tires for my '99 RSV. I run about 60/40 between surface roads and highway, and on the surface roads, it's about 50/50 between country roads and mountain riding. Everyone has their own preference, but there is no denying the great mileage and performance I'm getting, now on two sets in a row.
-
Omaha is back at the road repairs on I-80 since the CWS is over. They have been cutting the surface on I-80 between 24th St. and 13th St. on the east bound side for a few days now. I got caught in the left lane on Saturday and it was a rough one. The surface cuts were so deep and crooked it just took the bike for a ride I didn't want to be on. I was all over the place even dropping down to 40 mph. Sunday I had to go that way again and stayed in the right lane as it had not been cut yet. I had to go back again today so I stayed in the right lane again. I saw cars hitting their brakes ahead of me and I caught a glance of new blacktop in the left lane ahead so I switched over. Whew......safe. My butt! The new surface ended in short order and dropped me right back into a snakepit of the worst cuts I've ever seen on a road. Had to drop speed and hang on but the cuts were so bad the bike just followed them to the left onto the breakdown lane. I got it pulled up about a foot from the retaining wall. Pucker factor.....about 8. Ok. Cool. I got my business done on the other side of the river and headed home on west bound I-80. That has been clear and good running even with the bridge work. Not today. Just past 13th St. again and had just passed a couple in the right lane on a Victory. They fell in behind me as their lane was slowing down and then....BAM... drop off and the danged cuts in the left lane. The worst part is this is where the road work switches traffic onto the left shoulder for a ways than then back onto the regular surface. The problem there is the drop off between lanes is so sharp there is no safe way to jump the bike back across the lane again. The shoulder has been cut down so deep and so badly and you're stuck in it until you can find a smooth spot on a bridge to make the lane change. You're just stuck on the shoulder. No safe way off. Puker factor west bound........I'm going with a 10 on this one. I kept glancing back in the mirrors at the Victory and he was having a terrible time, looked like he was serving about a foot back and forth and losing speed fast. I finally hit a bridge section and got over to an uncut lane. I worked my way over to the outside lane and watched the traffic slowing down back where I had been. I pulled off at the first exit and waited to see if the Victory was coming up. I sat there for a smoke and the couple never came by. Now I'm worried. I hope they just stopped and waited for a safe chance to get back onto the road. The Avons have always done me proud on the way they walked across the surface grinds and tar snakes. NEVER had a moment of concern with them. But the grooves are so bad in spots that you would think you lost a rear tire. So if you happen to be coming into Omaha on I-80 in the next few days, be prepared. Or detour through on I-680 or I-480 or even better use the new Veterans Bridge into South Omaha. Maybe they will have this death trap fixed soon before somebody goes down. I'm not one to whine about road condtions. It's part of traveling. But this is nuts. Mike -
more picture surface, of the toy run. here are a few more.
-
I have a flat garage roof and 8 years ago I had the tar and gravel surface replaced by a rolled rubber roof with a granular surface. The roof just started leaking along one of the seams, maybe a 3' length. I have read that just coating the area with tar will eventually deterioriate the rubber roof itself. Other than calling in a roofer, is there anything that I could do to stop the leak myself? :mo money:
-
Finally getting around to the pictures of Mocha's new rear! I used a heat gun and carefully softened the hot glue and pulled the lenses off. Then I ground down all the protruding plastic and filled in all hols and painted. That left a flat surface to mount the LED strips. There are 60 for the running lights, 24 for the brakes, and 9 in each turn signal. Ponch followed me in bright sunlight and reported that the red section washes out but the turn signals show up good. As soon as I get out of the noonday sun it is different. I used self adhesive surface mount LED strips then overglued with clear RTV. I figured the Texas heat might loosen the adhesive eventually. Then I used the clear RTV to put the lenses back on. I think the effect is pretty good. Also, I found out that I had lights behind the lower Yamaha reflector!! Garbage scotch-locks that needed replacing. And the side reflectors have a bulb in the forward edge!! I don't think the sides are stock because of the scotch-locks. The lower might be stock. It took me about 8-10 hours of work and $100.00 worth of LEDs to do this project. The result is priceless if someone notices the bike and I don't get slammed from behind. JB
-
Does your motor oil contain friction modifiers? Friction modifiers and mild antiwear agents are polar molecules added to lubricants for the purpose of minimizing light surface contacts (sliding and rolling) that may occur in a given machine design. These are also called boundary lubrication additives. Esters and natural and synthetic fatty acids, and some solid materials such as graphite and molybdenum disulfide, are used for these purposes. These molecules have a polar end (head) and an oil-soluble end (tail). Once placed into service, the polar end of the molecule finds a metal surface and attaches itself. If one could see the orientation of the molecules on the surface, it would appear something like the fibers of a carpet, with each molecule stacked vertically beside the others. As long at the frictional contact is light, these molecules provide a cushioning effect when one of the coated surfaces connects with another coated surface. If the contact is heavy, then the molecules are brushed off, eliminating any potential benefit of the additive. When the machine designer anticipates more than light surface contact (from shock loading for instance) then the designer would select a stronger type of friction modifier characterized as an antiwear additive. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate is a common antiwear agent. This type of additive literally reacts with the metal surface when the reaction energy (temperature) is high enough. The reaction layer provides sacrificial surface protection. As the loading and metallic contact increase, the strength of additive and the strength of the reaction process increases. This leads to the use of sulphur-phosphorus based EP chemicals. The EP additives form organo-metallic salts on the loaded surfaces that serve as sacrificial films to protect against aggressive surface damage.
-
This was originally submitted to me years ago when I had a forum for the Honda Shadow. No reason why it wouldn't work on the Venture also. Polishing the Lower Forks All right, you've added all those chrome accessories to your bike and you look at your lower forks (sliders) and you want to spiff them up. Whether you just don't like that dull, swirling, satin pattern &/or you have nicks and/or scratches - you want them to gleam like the rest of your bike. You find out that to chrome them is not only expensive but you won't be riding for nearly a month (maybe more) because you will have to remove them and send them out. Can't handle the expense or the down time? You can polish them to a lustrous sheen - almost chrome like. This is manual/hand labor - quite a few hours. Your hands will get real tired. If you want a perfect job/end result, you'll wind up spending two afternoons doing it. Plan on a total of 5 to 8 hours, depending on your endurance and what shape your sliders are in before you begin. Road nicks and scratches will be sanded out and require extra time. (Mine were nicked up - this is what prompted me to do this.) Some people have told me they used a Dremel. I did not. My theory was that the Dremel sanding drum is a cylinder and so are the sliders - minimal contact points - most likely leading to furrows and ridges. Even on a flat surface (like the brake reservoir cover) the Dremel will sand in uneven rows/furrows. An orbital palm sander will finish a flat surface much better. This is not the case when doing the sliders. So, I opted for hand sanding, curling my fingers around the sliders and going at it with a graduation of finer grits. You start off with dry sanding and coarse grit, working up to wet sanding and finer grits to achieve a silky smooth finish. It's that simple in theory - and it works - but you have to put a lot of manual labor into it. I am not trying to talk you out of it. I am a realist and want you to know this is not a quick fix. Yet, it's worth it and comes out looking great! You have a few options to make your work easier. You have to remove the fender because there is no clearance to sand between the fender and the sliders. Once you do that, you are free to follow the procedure listed below. You could remove the sliders (but that's a pretty big job!) so you can work on a bench (faster and easier). I only removed the fender, got my camping stool and went at it. You also could apply a (toxic) stripper (now, now) to remove the clear coat from the sliders but I did not want the mess and any possible damage to the rims or spokes. To remove the fender, here is a hint from my mech. Jack up the bike to raise the front end, remove the wheel and use a scissors jack to push/seperate the forks to a wider position (don't over do it, just enough) to allow the fender to come out easily - w/o scraping/scratching the paint. Don't tweak the forks out of shape and damage them - you only need a little extra clearance supplied by the scissors jack! All that said, here's what I did: Starting off with DRY SANDING: 3M Aluminum Oxide for metal 1) medium grit - # 100 - to remove clear coat & smooth out nicks/scratches 2) fine grit - # 230 - to lessen marks of the 120 & the last of nicks/sratches Proceed with WET SANDING (get a pail of water) 3) medium grit - # 400 - really work it, eliminate nicks/scratches and all previous dry sanding marks - only now see #400 abrasions. 4) medium/fine grit - #600 - you're heading for the finish, smoothing it out 5) fine grit - # 800 - keeps getting easier, you are attaining a finished surface 6) finishing grit - #1200 - now you are getting the silky/final surface Optional step: Rubbing Compound (yeah, I'm a perfectionist) 7) tearing up an old T-shirt, creating a "shoe shine boy's" cloth, liberally apply compound to cloth, wrap it around the slider, and pull back alternately on the ends to work the complete surface of the slider to a "glass" smooth surface. Polish the sliders (your choice, Mother's or Simichrome or whatever shines best) 8) using a clean section of that T-shirt, apply polish (I used Mother's) and work that "shoe shine" rag over the complete surface of the sliders. When you stand back to admire your work, you'll be amazed. You'll forget about all the cursing of me that you did. You'll grin or laugh or say something out loud - it'll look that good - and you'll forget how tired your arms and hands are. The jury is still out for me on whether or not to apply a paste wax to the sliders to protect them. I did not. Other people told me that they did. I feared the wax would discolor my labors over time. I did my sliders in December of 98. Five months later and three or four washings, they still look great and shine. I am a low maintenance type of guy as far as cosmetics go. I ride, I don't spend time washing/polishing. I keep my bike garaged and covered - which helps a great deal. I ride to work whenever I can but it's a short commute (darn). I ride every other weekend because I have my kids every other weekend - so I average about 400 miles on those weekends. I mention all this so you understand why I did not put wax on the forks and why I wash the bike only once a month. Hope all this helped and you are completely happy with your polished forks/sliders! I am sure you will be. I hope the maintenance is little and you get to ride that shining beast a whole bunch! Happy motoring... Submitted by Crazy Charley
