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Showing results for tags 'stator'.
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Okay, I decided that it's time to upgrade my stock Stator to something which offers better performance. From what I have read, Buckeye's seems to be the preferred upgrade unit to install. Many people who are much more knowledgeable than I am regarding electricity, etc. have told me that I am probably over-taxing my stock stator, and that it would be wise to install a higher-output Stator. My question is . . . would it be reasonable to see if I can find a used Buckeye Stator to save a few bucks? Or, is this the type of thing which I shouldn't chance, and just purchase a brand new one? I want to make sure that this job is done right the first time. I also want to be assured that when I buy a new Stator, that I will have a higher performing unit than the stock one I have been using, and that I will be happy with my purchase and the upgrade difference. Thanks Guys & Be Safe! Pete.
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Hey all you First Gen Gurus, Last fall I noticed what I thought at the time were indicators of a bad stator on my '83 Venture. I was riding it and noticed that when I would turn on my turn signals the voltage needle would fluctuate each time the turn signals flashed and also when the radiator fan would come on the voltage would dip from 14 - 16 volts down to about 10. Since it was time to put it in the barn (and also because a mechanic told me replacing the stator would require pulling the engine and a huge labor bill) I decided to deal with it this spring. Over the winter I kept a trickle charger on the battery and started it up every few weeks and it always seemed like it was putting out about 12 - 14 volts as long as it was running at idle. Since I wasnt riding it, i didnt see any of the earlier mentioned behaviour. When I got it out this spring suddenly the battery seemed to be dead, the voltage meter is at the bottom of the scale even after the charger has been on for 2 days at 2 amps. So now Im thinking dead cell in a reasonably new Deka Gell battery. The big question is...can a battery thats going bad make a non-techie boy like me think its the stator? Or is it more like the stator is bad and now the battery is as well? Or could it be the voltage regulator not functioning and not charging the battery or sending the correct voltages to the lights/instruments? Any advice or opinions would be welcome......Im also trying to decide if its time to put the old girl up for sale as a parts bike or fixer upper. Thanks! George0fthejungle -
OK. I have absolutely no experience with a stator going bad on my Venture Royale and I have no idea what to look for if a problem is developing. I've heard that on a Gold Wing, when the stator goes out, everything goes out. You're basically dead in the water. I have no idea if that is typical with this bike or not. Here's what I've experienced today. I had to run to the parts house to get some new brake pads for the wife's Geo. Everything went as clockwork. I fred up the bike, drove to the Zone, got the parts, and driv back. I went back out to fire the bike up about four hours later. The bike turn once, then started clicking. I had to use the battery charger to get it fired up. I got it running again and driv it to the cars wash so's I could clean it up a bit. Got done, tried to fire it up, it turned twice and quit. Had to call the wife out to jump start me (I ain't pushin' it). I got it fired back up and took it for an investigative ride. Once the RPM's get over 2 G's, it shows to be charging just below the 3/4 mark on the voltmeter (well above the 12 mark). If I let it idle, the voltmeter drops to just above the yellow mark (well below the 12 mark). When the engine is running 2 G's and above, the voltmeter stays just below the 3/4 mark and does not fluctuate. So what could have caused my problem? Is the stator trying to go bad? The previous owner also had replaced the original battery with one from a Gold Wing. As a result, I have no place to stick the special battery sensor tube. Could this be where my problem lies? Do I just need to get out and ride the bike some more to keep the battery charged up?
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When my 89 is cold the starter cranks just fine. After it is warm the starter turns over very slow, pauses, and then the engine fires and starts. It has been this way ever since I got the bike 7 years ago. I lost the stator on a road trip last year (thanks freebird for the replacement procedure, worked great) so now things like this are getting more of my attention. I would like to pull the starter to test it, can it be done without removing the radiator? Any ideas on why it starts the way it does when it is warm? The battery was new last year and the stator is working fine now. Thanks in advance for any and all help. -
Hi there, Today I went for a ride with no issues. I parked the bike for less than an hour. When I started it, I forgot the kickstand was down and when I released the clutch, the bike died. The bike would not start with the kickstand up and the bike didn't have power. I checked the main fuse and it was fine. I removed the kickstand wiring connector and grounded out the wires but nothing. There's power in Acc position but not when the key is on. Seems like a possible ground issue. Could this be a stator issue? I'm unsure how to test and new to this site. Thank you for any helpful suggestions.
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Note: This post is kinda long, but not too technical(except for the very end). There has been a lot of discussion in the past about the amount of reserve electrical capacity on an RSV for accessories, although most of the detailed facts were BC and no longer available for review. Some folks have glibly stated that the RSV has "lots" of extra electrical power available (with which I completely DISagree). So I thought I would publish some real world observations without a lot of stats to interpret. My 2005 QuickSilver has quite a few added lights, but with the exception of 4 small 3 watt instrument bulbs, all of them are LEDs, so they do not significantly increase the total load. My Driving lights are stock Yamaha accessories with original bulbs. I have both an ammeter (which allows me to see absolute proof if current is going in-to or out-of the battery at any moment, and a digital volt meter that reads to the tenth of a volt. I also have a tach. Most of you know that these bikes have four individual carb heaters, 15 watts each, for a total of 60 watts, which is a significant load. I don't know the trigger temp for the heaters, but it seems to be around the low 60s. The thermal switch is under the rear battery covers, so engine heat causes them to be shut off after warm-up unless the temp is quite a bit lower. When trying to figure out how much extra load you can add to an RSV, you need to factor in this 60 watt load if you are going to be riding in any cool or cold weather. Obviously important if you are going to use heated clothing! To recap, the electrical load on my bike is almost stock. I am experimenting with a set of grip heaters that pull about 2 amps/25 watts. I know they are not malfunctioning because they are wired through a 3 amp fuse which has not blown. Today, the temp was right around 30 degrees as I headed to work - cold enough to guarantee the carb heaters never shut off from engine heat. I ride about 25 miles, so this is far enough to ensure the current drain from starting the bike is completely replaced by the time I get to work, giving me the opportunity to observe the charging system both with a battery taking light charge, then a fully charged battery. Bottom line: with the driving lights on and the grip heaters on but headlight on low beam, the RSV can just barely handle the charging requirements of a normal battery in good condition at engine speeds above 1,800 RPM. Turning off the driving lights (total load reduction of 70 watts) makes a BIG difference. Below 1,800 RPM with driving lights and grip heaters on, the ammeter shows the charging system cannot handle the load and the battery is discharging. Hitting the brakes dramatically increases that discharge, and brakes with turn signals even more. This means the RSV has very little practical reserve charging capacity during cold weather unless you turn off the driving lights! Here are the technical details to go with those observations: At high idle after starting (about 1200 RPM, while the battery is trying to take a charge, with lights and grip heaters but no brakes or signals), the system voltage reads only about 10.9 volts, and the ammeter shows the battery is discharging. Raising the RPM close to 2,000 pushes the voltage up to 11.7, and the ammeter shows 0, meaning that the charging system is handling all the lights and heaters, but nothing (or only minor amount) is left to recharge the battery. Over 2,000 RPM shortly after starting (all conditions the same as above), the system voltage raises to about 12.3 and the ammeter begins showing a slight current flowing into the battery. After the battery is fully recharged, the system voltage at idle with lights and grip heaters but without brakes or signals is about 11.9, and the ammeter still shows a slight discharge. Hitting the brakes at idle drops the voltage to 10.9. Fully recharged battery with lights and grip heaters on, normal cruising RPM, the system voltage registers about 13.2. With a fully recharged battery, turning off only the grip heaters at idle pushes the voltage back up to about 12.8, and turning off the driving lights gets it all the way back up to about 13.5.This test is admittedly unscientific, and all the voltages were based only on memory from this morning's ride (not carefully written down under precise conditions), but I hope that information at leasts gives you something to base your decisions on when deciding on additional accessories. Good luck, Goose
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Does anyone know how to deal with the gear shaft when removing the stator cover from a 1983 yamaha venture. How do you remove the gear shaft in the bottom right and corner to take the stator cover off? Pulling hard doesn't seem to be the option because I am going to to damage the rubber boot from the shifter linkage.
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I will be replacing my stator soon. I remember a post or a section with photos and step by step of How to. Can any one help? joe
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Hi guys. I have a 1983 venture royale. I have all the bolts taken off the stator cover, but there is the gear shaft and its linkage that's stopping me from pulling the stator cover off. Two questions. How do you remove the gear shaft from back linkage/stator cover entirely? How can you just slide the stator off the bike leaving the gear shaft put? Please help. Thanks. (1st timer, I'm 27 w a 30+ year old bike.) -
I recently found out that my Stator is bad. I have a new high-output stator and rectifier, but I am not sure about the install. I have not found the manual very helpful in the removal or installation of these parts either. I am worried that this is a little beyond my repair abilities and was hoping to find some pictures that walk you through the process. Anyone have any ideas? Lyle Donnelson
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I was wondering if I should upgrade my stock stator in my 07 RSV. I am running the stock accessories, but I also run a gps and satellite radio. Now I am adding Gerbing heated gloves and jacket liner into the mix. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Do you need to drain the oil before pulling the cover? I know there will be some oil lost when doing so, but how much is up there?
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Okay Guys, time again for your help; I replaced the stator cover with another from Ebay; but FIRST welded the sides of the single support on the backside for the shaft's tunnel through the stator. Changed the oil using 5W-30; as it's already in the 30-40 degree temperatures with Winter almost here. Flush, filled and bled the clutch with Valvoline Synthetic DOT 3 fluid. The motor is running great. but, here's the prob; No matter how much I tweak the shift linkage, moving through the gears is tricky. One moment getting into first is really easy, the next moment it's not. Same with the other gears. The toe of the shift goes down to change a gear, and it bangs against the rider's left floorboard. Same with the heel. I could try cutting 1/2 inch off of the 'inside' floorboard along its length so the heel-toe piece won't 'bottom out', but I must be missing something. I wondered if it is a bushing missing from where the shaft goes through the Stator's tunnel, but the shaft was already a tight fit through it. About a 1/2 to 1" of the smooth part of the shaft is visible before the knurled portion the shifter linkage is attached. What could I have missed? Any suggestions? Again, thanks in advance. Richard in Arizona -
Has anyone had a stator go south on a 2nd Gen RSV? I'm only getting 9.5-12.5VAC at the voltage regulator plug and the same voltage at the stator plug.
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I must say this JOB is compleat... New Buckeye Stator and R/R from SkyDoc. I now have all kinds of power with everthing on I am sitting at 14.3 volts and with lights turned off I am at 14.8 volts.... never had that before. Also never had two green bars on my led meter. Pics of the battery bug and the new R/R plug and play. Difficulty of this Stator install is about 7.5 lots to do. Difficulty if the new R/R install 1.0 simple. New R/R are on the right in the photo's. Jeff [ATTACH]64639[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64640[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64641[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64642[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]64643[/ATTACH]
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This is somewhat of a specific geographical question, so bear with me. Has anyone that lives down south in the constant hotter climates, installed a Buckeye stator and had problems with it failing? The reason I ask this, is that I purchased a stator and installed it with a new R/R and it appears that the stator has failed due to it running hot because of the wire size it was wound with. Have any of you installed the Buckeye and ran into this problem? I dont want to have to do this again, and I dont mind paying for quality. How happy have y'all been with the performance you have received from the upgraded Buckeye stator? -
Replaced my stator with a high output one from Buckeye and all was well until yesterday morning I started it up and when I revved it up just a little I got a buzz (vibration) so I took the covers off again and the bolts are tight but I can still move the stator very little by hand so I am going to get some shorter bolts to see if that helps. Could not see any places where anything made contact. -
Hi all I'm new here to the site and looking to purchase a 2009 or later RSV. Im coming from a VTX but wanted more of a full dress tourer. I usually run in the winter heater jacket, pants, gloves, gps, and charge my phone. With the RSV in addition I wanted to get a heated seat and grips. From the readings on this site it seems to make that combination work I have to upgrade the stator and and R/R. My mechanical knowledge is limited to brakes and fluids so I would probably have to take the bike in to have this work done. My questions is are there any downfalls to have this done, will the dealers know how to install this R/R or will I have to take it to a different motorcycle mechanic and finally after this is done will I have any other problems associated to the upgrade with the bike. I see some people have gone through several stators but I'm not sure why they go through so many. Im very interested in the bike and appreciate any education you guys can provide on this Thanks Vince -
It appears to be pretty clean. It has about 65K miles. New upgraded stator put in within last 5000 miles. Needs a rear tire. Clutch rebuilt at same time stator was done. I am wondering what else I should be looking for with the miles it has on it. I am sure I will change all the fluids. Probably get the valves checked/adjusted. I also know there were some rear shock problems. Is this something I shoudl plan on changing, or just ride until it is needed? Anybody know approximately the cost of having the dealer do the valves? The price is $4799/OBO. Is that a good price and if not, what should I be trying to get it for? Thanks for any advice. Zak
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Stator went out on my awhile back so I have to replace it, got down to the bolt that holds the retaining cover for the stator wire going out of the case and snap off came the head. So I think ok I will drill it and use and easy out nope broke the stupid easy out in the middle of the bolt. I had thought about drilling to the side of it, tapping it and putting in a smaller bolt but I guess I really should just get a new side cover. Any thoughts , ideas or just plain jabs for my stupidity are Welcome. I am hoping I can find someone parting out an engine or has replaced one because it was scratched for cheap. Looks like a new one cost around 300 bucks.
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I just finished replacing the stator on my 87 VR. Thank God for the volt meter on the dash, it allowed me to notice that I wasn't getting charging voltage before it was too late, and I rode the bike home on battery power. What a pain this job is! The stator part is typical - remove the cover, replace the stator, deal with the little rubber plugs where the wires go through. But, as has been noted, the screws holding the stator inside the cover are SUPER TIGHT with Loctite. The gasket was like a piece of granite bonded to the cover - very difficult to remove. And finally, there's the little cavity behind it with all the oil leak opportunities. Ya know, behind the cosmetic flange on the bearing cover behind the stator cover? Mine was an oily mess. I found on this fine website that oil can leak from either of the wire plugs in the stator cover, the gear selector switch, the shift shaft, the clutch slave cylinder installation, or the gaskets themselves. And all of these are packed into a tiny area too small to see, much less work in, which was difficult to clean out because my engine was sitting open with two covers removed and I didn't want crap to get in there. There's also 4 wire bundles that go through there, plus a convoluted shifter design with TWO linkage rods, 4 heim joints and a jackshaft! No wonder the shifter on this bike is not the smoothest I've ever used. I was pretty sure my leak was not coming from the clutch cylinder. That left the gaskets, gear switch o-ring, wire bundles and shift shaft as possibilities. I was already replacing the gaskets and redoing the wire bundles. The gear switch o-ring was low-hanging fruit, so I did it. As others reported, I found one of three retaining screws missing and another loose. Re-installed with Loctite. I did not do the shift shaft seal because, frankly, it looks like a total pain to do and I didn't wanna! I am hopeful that the leak was not there. Well, the good news is that it runs great, charges great, but dunno yet about leaks. I installed the hi-output Rick's stator. They don't list it, but I learned about it here; it is in their Hot Shot series. They don't really give any specs on what to expect in terms of increased performance. I can tell you that by 2000 rpm it's generating 14.75 volts at the battery, even with the driving lights on (stock regulator). Even by 1500 rpm with the driving lights and heated grips on it's getting up over 13V, where charging is starting to happen as opposed to battery drain. I never drive it below 2000 rpm except idling at signals. I don't have any "before" data to compare it to, but my impression is that I am getting more charge at lower rpms. I know that before, if I had my driving lights and heated grips on and was running around town I would gradually deplete the battery. Thanks to all who have contributed to stator and oil leak info on this site. That info makes all the difference when doing the job. Happy New Year, Jeremy
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As you can see in the pictures, I have one more cover to polish. All the covers started out looking like the stator cover. The other covers I started with 220 grit sandpaper, and worked my way up to 800 grit before switching to polishing compounds. The third image is of the stator cover after using paint stripper to remove the old finish. With this one I'm thinking of just using Black Emery polishing compound to clean up the ugly spots first then work on the whole case, working my way up to Red Rouge. I tried this on a couple of spots in the last two pics. I'm using a Dremel Tool with wool polishing wheels. Bill
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I have a 07 RSV with a stock stator. Need to install something that will draw 5V/.5A/2.5W? Is it possible to do this with the stock stator or will I have to upgrade. Thinking the stock stator won't handle it, so, need one that will. Any suggestions?
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After replacing the stator and sealing the cover, are you supposed to refill it with oil or will it draw oil from the rest of the system? thanks Markus(calgaryrider)
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It appears I need a stator.. or I think I do. I changed the regulator for the new one and still no charge. When we test the stator with the bike running and the 3 white wires disconnected we get voltage across any combination of 18 to 40 or more AC depending on the RPM so we thought the stator was fine. BUT if we do a continuity test to ground each of the 3 wires are grounding to the bike which I believe they should not be doing.. So If I need a new stator (the one in is was a new one from Montreal 3 years ago) Which one should I get and from where. Skydoc is reluctant to sell me one of his because I have a Mk1 and apparently the cooling is not as efficient so it could burn out. Any ideas are welcome.. any solution would be helpful... Soon would be good as well due to it being riding season and my better half is already complaining. The bike left us stranded 500 Kms from home and it has NEVER failed us like this before. Actually had to trailer it home.. She groaned about that I'm sure Would really like to have a high output IF POSSIBLE..
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