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Showing results for tags 'spring'.
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The Barnett clutch was installed this evening. Took about an hour since I also cleaned up the areas I normally can't get to. Also took 15 minutes to find my darn 1/4 ratchet (never did find it - one of the kids must have borrowed it and forgot to put it back - Grrrrr). As promised, here is the installation with pictures. Here is the Barnett clutch plate as received. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-rLB7KNp/0/M/P1000116-M.jpg These are the tools required. Ball end Allen wrenches, mechanics picks, and an in-lb torque wrench. Not shown is a 10mm socket/combo wrench for removing the Stebel horn (if installed - not sure if you need to remove a stock horn) and the stock spring holder ring. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-FQTRxKX/0/M/P1000118-M.jpg Put the bike on the side stand and put an oil pan under the clutch cover side. No need to drain the oil unless you smoked your clutch. Then an oil change would be needed. Put the transmission in neutral. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-JGw69SQ/0/M/P1000119-M.jpg Take off the horn and hang it from the rear foot board with a piece of coat hanger. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-4xXPJzH/0/M/P1000120-M.jpg Take the cover off the clutch. Pay attention to where the bolts go. There are two different length bolts. I suggest taking a piece of corrugated (cardboard), draw the cover shape including the oil fill for reference. Use a small screw driver to poke holes and insert the bolts in the appropriate location in the pattern. You may notice the gasket stayed intact on the engine. I reused it. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-j9rgXjB/0/M/P1000121-M.jpg Remove the 6 bolts holding the spring in place and remove the spring and pressure plate. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-v7v9BWC/0/M/P1000122-M.jpg Here are the parts removed. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Zck5Cvw/0/M/P1000123-M.jpg Note the notches in the friction plate edges and the two punch marks on the clutch cage. This is important when reinstalling. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-sFfdMgK/0/M/P1000124-M.jpg This is where the mechanics picks come in handy. Makes the removal of the clutch disks really easy. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Gv4cfxF/0/M/P1000126-M.jpg When all is removed, it looks like this. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-V3w5RwF/0/M/P1000127-M.jpg I had done the Freebird mod which removes the inner half friction disk and small bellville spring and replaces it with a full disk. This mod reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle. I wanted the additional friction zone so I am putting the half and half back in. Here are the pieces including the wire. You are supposed to use a new wire every time. However, I was really careful when removing it and am reusing my old wire (plus, I didn't think ahead of time to buy a new one). http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-7C5gF4Z/0/M/P1000128-M.jpg To be continued. RR -
Hi everyone, just completed a 4k ride with the R1 upgrade, Vmax rotors, stainless lines and EBC HH pads. Wow, what a diff. However, I can really notice the limitations of the stock, front master cylinder when leaning on them. What's the upgrade for the master cylinder? Also, has anybody come up with a fork spring solution other than the progs? I just put them on before the trip (block off plates, AD's removed) and once most of the oil blew passed the seals, they mellowed a little. Still, I'm not liking them at all. Way too stiff. I look down at the forks and unless I really lean on them or hit a huge bump, they don't compress at all! I put progs on my 92' BMW K75 back in 2006 and had the exact same experience. I have no spacers installed for preload at all. I would think a two stage spring would be awesome. Perhaps cutting the progs down and adding something softer in the bottom? Has anybody come up with a better solution? Perhaps I don't have them dialed in correctly but even with no oil at all they're too stiff. I was using 10wt. Also, I'm sure it's not the weight of the bike. I had the bike and trailer fully laden weighed on our last night: Bike = 933lbs, trailer = 435lb. Tounge weight is around 20lbs. I'm 190 and my wife is 145. Still seemed incredibly rigid. Thanks everyone! Great forum! -
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At the risk of boring redundancy with other threads, I thought I'd post my experience with the PCW clutch spring upgrade in my 05 QuickSilver. The bike has about 40,000 miles on it, and I thought I had been noticing just a bit of clutch slippage on hard acceleration and quick gear shifts. The problem was absolutely confirmed while we were riding back up from Corpus Christi last week and I did a 5th gear roll-on around 80 to pass - wasn't really getting anywhere like I expected, but a quick glance down at the tach showed the engine did pick up speed pretty quick! Ooops, had to take the passing pretty easy for the rest of the ride home. I called PCW to order the spring "kit", and they tried gently to talk me into ordering all new clutch plates too. I demurred and said "just the spring." I did ask them for info about why they wanted to replace the inside special half disk and wave washer with a full disk - why did they think that was better than the original design? The explanation kind of made sense that Yamaha had been extra careful for the wussy American market to design a clutch that was easy to pull and would always engage without any snatch or jerk. Since I don't consider myself a wuss, I decided to go ahead and replace it with the full size plate like they suggest. The kit consists of just the new thicker PCW spring, one stock Yamaha friction plate, and one stock Yamaha gasket. Just like others have reported, the instructions were easy to follow and the job was done quickly and without incident. I did take the opportunity to measure the thickness of my existing clutch plates to check for wear, and found that they were well withing stock tolerance (actually just a bit thicker than the new plate that came with the kit). This matched my expectations, since there is no way a wet clutch should be worn out in 40,000 miles! It is tempting to blame the slipping on the oil I was using, but since it was old-stock Mobile1 red-top, changed only 1,000 miles ago, that doesn't really make sense either. I guess it was just the wussy stock clutch spring. Anyway, I am very happy with the new spring - just a bit more tension noticeable in the hand, but not enough to bother anyone, I think. It does engage a tad bit further out, but that was a very minor change. I have not noticed any jerkiness or change in the smoothness of the engagement from going to the new full sized plate in the inside of the stack. For anyone who does a lot of riding, I would strongly recommend this spring kit now, even before you notice any clutch slipping. It is quite reasonably priced, easy to do, and will probably prevent your ever having any clutch problems for the life of your bike. Goose -
I have an '87 with only 10'000 miles on it! Over its lifespan there have been several multiyear periods when it's sat idle due to persistent maintenance issues. Here is the latest. I drove it in June for approx. 10 miles and it ran fine. A few days later it "got sick"! It always starts, but when I tried to accelerate, it was exhibiting symptoms of only running on three cylinders. When I removed the air cleaner, only 3 of the sliders were moving. I've heard a lot about bad diaphragms, as well as other issues so here's what I've done (over the past 8 months). I thought that it may be a case of old gas so I initially gave it the Sea Foam treatment. No improvement. Although I couldn’t see any holes in the diaphragms, I didn’t want to leave any stone unturned so I have purchased several new diaphragms as well as slider/diaphragm kits. Just in case there was a problem with an old needle, I found a source and bought 3 new ones.($$$$$) Throughout the past 8 months I have turned it into a frustrating pastime of routinely mixing and matching sliders, diaphragms and needles to try to find a combination that would work. Here I have to emphasize that all through this process all I’ve managed to do is move the problem! The bike always starts with no hesitation but (even after it’s warmed up) it won’t respond to any acceleration. Incidentally, in order to try to minimize my efforts, I have just been juggling parts on the right two carbs only. In essence, I can get either the right front carburetor to act normal OR the right rear, but not both simultaneously. Here it is December and not only is it past riding season in New England but it’s also too cold to pursue this problem anymore in an unheated garage until Spring. Meanwhile, if anyone has any suggestions about something I haven’t tried yet, I’d sure like to hear it and I’ll take it into consideration when I resume trying to fix this problem in the Spring. It sure eats my heart out to own a bike that is mint physically but sick mechanically.
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Some of y'all knew that Mike, aka StormRaven was given the opportunity to become a candidate for a paid programming internship through his college. The internship will be with the Georgia Farm Bureau in Macon GA for spring semester. He finally got called today to set the date for his interview. It's thurs morning @ 9:30am. Please give up some prayers, good vibes, etc that he gets the position. I will also mention as of this semester he's officially double majoring in Computer Programming and Computer Networking and should walk with both degrees next spring. I'll also be throwing the man a graduation ride (yes I said ride) as a reward for all the hard work he's done the past 2 yrs with one more to go. Despite all the obstacles he's faced since his wreck and head injury in Sept 09 he's bounced back in a major way. Carrying a 4.0 GPA every semester, president's list, National Honor society member, works at Radioshack on those crazy hrs and about to add an internship to the mix (we hope!)
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Are attached pictures of a stock RSV fork spring or an aftermarket? Gary -
I am considering a diaphragm to coil spring conversion to try to minimize slippage during hard acceleration. Before I do, I would like to get some feedback from anyone who has done it. Was it worth it. I don't want to do something I will just regret later. Why did Yamaha change to the diaphragm clutch spring? My 84 had coil springs. Now I have a 99 RSV and I'm back to the same problem I had with th 84 until I installed the heavy duty springs.
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Hi; Does anyone know if the Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion Kit comes with a clutch plate cover gasket. Anyone? Does it? Thanks; JohnB
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my venture sprung an oil leak from a cam cover gasket so she is parked till spring. but on the bright side while i have it open i am gonna check my valve clearances
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Well I finally finished making the bracket to mount a 1st gen center stand onto the RSV. Seems to work well, only problem is the retract spring. The one I bought for it is waay to flimsy for the task. Can anyone recommend a suitable spring that I can buy that will do the job? Cheers, D.W.
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I am a newbie ! Just purchased a 1987 Venture 'i bought it cheap-but probably not cheap if My problems are more than the seller had a so called motorcycle mechanic tell him that it needed A clutch ???WHEN TURNING THE ENGINE OVER WITH WRENCH ON FLYWHEEL IN GEAR HAS A POPPING NOISE ON LEFT SIDE OF TRANS-IT DOES NOT MATTER WHAT GEAR IT IS IN DOES NOT ROTATE DRIVESHAFT OR UJOINT ??? I have studied the trans diagrams ,it appears to me either spring loaded cog is messed up or has a broken spring. ????? Please give a feed back on this-i am new to these bikes-YOU GUYS KNOW MORE THAN ME ON THIS PLEASE HELP- THANK YOU. JIM :confused24: -
On the way to work this morning the 93 lost pulling power. Idles ok but when you try to take off for a stop it is like you are in second gear. I took the plug wires off each cylinder one at a time and have spark. I took them apart and cleaned them as described here. The front right resistor was black and there was no spring. Is that bad. I didn't have a meter so couldn't test. Also noticed there are no flat washers in any of them. Are they important and could any of this be my power problem? Thanks Kevin PS would like some phone support if anyone is willing. Thanks again:confused:
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Here is a spring ride in Indiana on April 7 2012. I normally shoot video off he motorcycle at 720P but up it to 1080P on this ride. On the GoPro HD 720P shoot at 170 degree wide angle but at 1080p is at 127 degree. when we started that morning tempture was 39 F. Part 1 https://vimeo.com/41214565 Part 2 https://vimeo.com/42243234 Part 3 https://vimeo.com/43487559 Part 4 https://vimeo.com/43562847 We rode 45 but I forgot to bring my extra batteries and one cam quit about 5 minutes in to it.
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The Salvage of my 91 VR came in at $300.00. The insurance co said that this value is non negotiable. $300.00 seems quite high when I passed up a 90 VR not running with all plastic intact for $500.00 this spring. Go to my profile and look on the right side in my Album for several pictures of the 91 VR. I would be interested in your opinion.
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Has anyone looked into replacing the oil pressure relief spring with one that would hold the oil pressure at a bit higher level than what is currently used or is this a bad idea all the way around for these bikes (RSV). I know when I was building Buick V6 engines a long time back I would increase the pressure by swapping out the relief spring for one slightly stronger which would run the idle pressure up a few pounds. This running at 8 - 10 psi is crazy only because by the time you see it's off the gauge it's way too late. I was thinking of somewhere around 20 - 25 psi would be nice and a top cruse pressure of around 40 psi hot.
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Planting lots of crinum lily this spring, as well as last year. Its starting to pay off. http://randyrick.us/FlowerGarden/crinum/crinum.htm
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I have a 2007 venture.I have been wanting to upgrade the handlebars on my bike for sometime and came across a great deal from a member here and bought a set of Tour Deluxe bars to replace my stock ones. This past Saturday, I proceeded to swap everything out.This is when the nightmare began. When changing out the throttle cables, I opened up the junction box where all the cables come together, and the spring that is in there popped out and went in on top of the front of the engine and fell down like a plinko chip.I have removed the lower farings to get better access as well as remove the engine braces to be able to see better and still cannot find this spring.Tried a magnet on a telescoping pole and put it anywhere i could hoping the spring could be located.No luck.Tried using air compressor and blowing up in and around engine to maybe dislodge and fall out.No luck.I went online to order new one. I found part# and ordered one.$5.50 for spring and $9.95 to ship.I received e-mail today that says this spring is on back order until July 25 2012 or later. I called other Yamaha retailers and was told the same thing.One checked and said there was not one in any warehouse or dealership in the States or in Japan.I asked how that was possible,they still make this motorcycle.He said he did not know.He did say the junction box is exclusive to the Venture and Tour Deluxe and the 1st Generation Venture.Does any one have one thy can part with new or old,does not matter?I am desperate
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Greetings All, So the clutch is definitely slipping and a long trip is on the horizon. So it has to be corrected before the trip. So is there a recommended dealership or parts dist that this forum recommends/supports? Is the VMax spring (A: essentially the same spring only stouter? (B: I have a 2007 Venture with 58K miles. What should I expected to pay for the spring? Have done the spring on a Kawasaki 1500, so am familiar with the *basic* process... Thanks in advance. Jim -
Here is part of a spring ride. Shoot with 2 GoPro's. https://vimeo.com/41214565 Here is part 2. https://vimeo.com/42243234
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clutch clutch clutch missing disk?
MikeWa posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I am installing a Barnett clutch pack #306-90-20082 and SR-2 kit in my 08 venture. With the spring plate torqued in place and the cover ready to go on. I still have considerable play in the clutch pack. It feels like I am missing one or more discs. Is play normal here or should torquing the spring plate have tightened everything up? Thanks for any guidance. Mike -
I need to replace my kick stand,I have the replacement. What's the best way to remove/install the spring. Thanks George
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I have a question. All of you with 83 thru 91 first & second gen Venture & Venture Royales, could you please tell me what you'r engine is turning at 70 MPH? As most of you know it took me three years to turn our 89 Venture Royale into a trike, which I finished last spring and we took on a 4000+ mile trip. However I can't remember what RPM the bike used to turn at 70 so I don't know if my gearing is right or wrong. Thanks in advance.
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I have trouble sometimes keeping my cruise on and what is happening is the wind will push the clutch lever just enough to disengage the cruise. If I hold the clutch leaver out everything works fine. It feels like there should be a spring or at least a stronger spring in there to keep it out a tad more. Is there a way to make the lever stay out and not disengage the cruise. I had the handle apart and cannot find a spring so I'm guessing it is inside the housing.
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Spring is finally here. The temperature us up to normal for the first time in nearly a year. Today I had to stop at a crosswalk and watch a tall, long legged, good looking blond in high heel sandals, very tight, very short, shorts and very, very tight tee shirt strut her stuff past. I love spring. Things are busting out all over!
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Called Dave Quin Motorcycles and ordered the hagon shock product ID HA M62097U with 300 KG spring. $464.00 plus 17.70 shipping gave him rider 220, pass 180, 20lbs each bag and 20 lbs in trunk. It is an 06 RSV with 81K on the clock and the second factory shock just went. took about 3 weeks to get. As suggested in some of the write ups, I cross tied the bike to plumb then remover passenger foot rest on right side and the plastic underneath. loosened top and bottom bolts then raised on jack stand to rear wheel just off floor. whole job took less than an hour. did the test ride, I think it will be just fine, It's as sport as an RSV gets solo and perfect 2 up. The adjustments on the shock are just as the factory set it, That is red spring all the way to the top (loose). I think it's a winner
