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Showing results for tags 'spray'.
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Hey guys! Getting ready to do the valve job and carb clean and I see I've got cracks in my intakes. I know they don't leak and aren't known for failing but I'm thinking about putting some of that spray on rubber sealant just for good measure. You guys think this will be an effective fix or will I just be wasting my time/money?
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My wife said we had to have one. She saw it at Vogel last year and it's only taken me nearly a year to get it done. I had a friend that welded it up for me and I was ready to spray it with black Krylon that I had on hand and she said "Oh NO!, that needs to be chromed". So it is. Don't you just love a wife that appreciates safety chrome! Dennis
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Carb problem-not spraying gas.
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I fixed the starter clutch and started the bike with some difficult at half throttle so I put 6 ounce of redline in the tank. Now it will not start (hit) at all. Checked gas flow and it is working good and cleaned and checked firing of the plugs, Good. When I spray starter fluid in the carbs direct, it runs with the starter fluid and quits. I see no gas spray out of the carbs at all. -
I have a K&N Airfilter on the 89. What is the best way to clean it ? Do they also use a light oil spray after cleaning like foam rubber ones ?
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I am building a little Tear Drop trailer and want to sheath the sides with aluminum .040" thick just like I did on the other one I made, so here is the question. I want to glue the aluminum to the wood sides of the body but the glue should not harden and become brittle it should stay tacky and pliable. The glue I used the last time was to thick and lump, so I was looking for alternatives. The stuff I use should be easily spreadable and lay down a thin coating. So do any of you have some suggestions on what kind of glue to use. I was thinking on using spray glue like they use on car interiors/upholstery (spray trim adhesive). From what I remember about the stuff it stays tacky and gooey and never hardens. It should hold the metal down but still allow it to move a little. Any body got any suggestion (that would be helpful)?
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And you're in a pinch....... This should get you by for a while. I've done this a few times to help others out, including the ones in my carbs that were done before we knew about the availability from SCI. It works and has held up well for about 20,000 miles on my '84. But here is what got me started again today. I've known I was pushing my luck on the treated diaphragms I did on mine several years ago. I ordered a set of SD1 x4 diaphragms a couple weeks ago from SCI but they were out of stock with a 4 to 6 week wait before they came in. It was running ok but getting hard to start again so I figured I'd change the plugs before I take off on another road trip. So I got the plugs in and it started fine like it does with fresh fire. But..... it felt a little off. Not quite right. So as long as I had the plastic off I pulled the diaphragm covers to take a look. Dang! Not cool. I found two diaphrams with holes in them. Not biggies but enough to cause problems. First pics show what I found. I'm not fixing that. I had spare sliders and diaphragms from another set of carbs. They were set aside long ago as they did have some tiny pinholes in a couple and I didn't need to mess with them at the time. So, here is what I have done, again, until the SCI SD1's come in. Cut down the top of a milk bottle so the hole is large enough to drop in the slider to protect it and the needle from any over spray from the Plasti Dip Spray. Tape off the plastic ring on the outside of the slider. It don't need to be sprayed. Wash the diaphragms down with alcohol to clean them up and let it dry. Give them a light coat of Plasti Dip Spray and let them sit for about a half hour and give them another light coat. They say it needs 4 hours to dry but I'd give them more than that. I didn't want to let it get too heavy as they still need to be flexible. They actually seem to soak up the spray and feel more flexible than they did in the beginning. But they cured and back into the carbs they went. Fired right up and idled fine and a quick sync brought them right on line. I'd done a sync this spring so apparently the rips were recent. But like I said, it's a fix. A pretty durable fix from the miles I've put on the bike since the first time I did this put if you need to get by.... for the cost of a can of Plasti Dip, it's a good one. I might try the Liquid Electrical Tape on the rips and a coat of of Plasti Dip to see if that holds up. Never hurts to know you can at least get home when you're in a bind. Still looking forward to the new ones. Got to be a bigger improvement over the repair. So there ya go. Mike
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hello all i have been have trouble with the carbs on my bike what i found today i pulled the air intakes off again and tryed to spray in some carb cleaner on the rt rear carb when i spray it in with bike running the eng dose not change anyway when ideling when i sprayed the other three the motor would slow down i am getting ready to pull the carbs again dose it sound like a cloged jet if so can i remove them and clean them if so do thay just screw out or is the any adj like so many turn in or out or do thay just screw in or is it another problem i need to look at thank you bumble bee k wisor 1999 rsv
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My slab infront of the garage gets pretty black every year. And every year I get the pressure washer out. Is there some biogradeable chemical that one can sprinkle on concrete slab to soak in so that a gentle spray can get it clean. Right now I end up having to get the spray very close to the concrete to get it clean. It uses a lot of water.
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I am gonna sue the makers of canned spray foam for not putting in bold letters that it should not be used bye idiots. I rewired my trailer to head to Vogel and the flex conduit they used was held in place with spray foam, well after running the wires I picked up a can to reset the wires and I thought I would just use my fingers to spread it out, did I mention I was on my back, so now I have spray foam all over my hands and I rolled in some that dripped on the driveway ( did I mention this stuff takes hair off better than wax) now I have hairless spots on my arms and foam on my fingers I can't get off. If only I had a brain.
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Robin and I are headed to Morro Bay on Thursday and I wanted to use a one step detailer on the bike before the trip. I've been using Original Bike Spirits because its cheap and does a ok job. I'm out, so I go to the local shop and they don't carry it. I find this MrMoto for $7.95 a can and ask the guy behind the counter if its any good. He asks several guys there, but they have never heard of it or tried it. They all recommended the S-100, which is $14.00 a can. I figure that at $7.95 a can I'll give it a try. This stuff is great! The spray is much more refined and is easy to control. A little bit goes a long way and polishes to a great shine. The can says it works best on black bikes, which is good for me as all of my bikes are black. If you are limited on funds like me, I really recommend this product.
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My choke level on my 89 VR moves to the left really, really hard. Any suggestions as to what I might spray into the cable. My 1st guess would be WD 40?
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Ok don't shoot the messenger but: Looking for a way to clean carbs and ensure jets are clear without taking carbs off... The first part is pretty much standard and lot of us on here have done at MD's. Take tank and top center air box off. Drain carbs, open 4 drain screws then close. If you take fuel line off at center rear of carbs and spray full, this will effectively place cleaner in all your carbs. let sit 30 min. drain carbs, open drain screws. (leave open) ---part I would like to add--- Take diaphram(s) and needle slides out. Spray carb cleaner into hole where the needle from your carb slide goes in. It should be your high speed jet? Spray carb cleaner into small hole inside top of carb. It should be your pilot jet? Spray carb cleaner into hole at the "T" sections of your carbs will be your overflows. Close your drain screws. Am I missing something? Can anyone add or correct any assumptions I have just made? V7goose , skydoc_17 , freebird, anyone... -
Ok Guys No miracle here. Not posting a way to change tires or fix flats with spray lube. I just went over the whoel bike spraying everything that moved, pivotted or slid on something. I didnt realize the throttle snapped back so fast and the sidestand actually goes back without having to guide it along. The throttle thing i wasnt expecting. i used to be able to let go of the throttle and scratch my nose and return to the throttle without bleednig off too much speed. Now I let go and it nearly jerked me off my seat. I plan to go over it once more andsee what else I should lube.
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Last Friday I encountered, for the first time in the 112,000 miles that I have ridden this bike, fuel coming from one of the over flow tubes. Once I isolated the correct carburator, which was the right rear one, I pulled the hose off going to the fuel inlet port and blew compressed air into the bowl. It did blow some gas out of at least one of the top jets, but after I started the bike up, it fixed the problem. Since then, I have put almost 600 miles on it and it is running great. If you don't have compressed air, you could probably just spray some carb cleaner into the inlet port and do the same thing, especially if you can seal up the inlet tube and spray tube some. RandyA -
I was looking through the AMSOIL brochure and found Amsoil Spray Grease. See the link for specific details of this grease. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/glcspray.aspx Anyway a though occured to me and I am wondering what you think about this idea. Would this or similair grease, but a spray type grease being sprayed into the access port on top of the engine side drive shaft knuckle/driveshaft gear be sufficient lubrication? Even if you would do it a couple times/year. I have never looked into this port yet but all of the posts say you can feel the knuckle that accepts the shaft end so spraying this grease, maybe with tube on the end of the spray can to direct the grease better should get it on the gearing. Granted this is no substitute for a complete lube job tear down but maybe in between lubing when the tire doesn't need to be taken off, could it be effective? Or is this grease simply not suitable for this type of application? What do you all think???
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I did a valve adjustment and got it all back together and running but now my choke handle will only pull out about a 1/4 inch, not enough to really work. While the carb was off, all I really did to it was spray it with carb cleaner. I did move the pistons in and out with my finger while spraying it. Did I do something wrong? I can't see anything interferring with it on the outside. Any ideas?
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I have my bike in my shop now and am in the process of giving it a good cleaning. I'm wondering what everyone uses to clean all of the parts that are hidden under the fairings/seat and side covers. There is a lot of dust and dirt in there. I blew out what I could with compressed air. I am reluctant to spray any water in these areas as it is mostly electrical stuff. Maybe I should just leave it alone. Ideas? Thanks JR -
I have an 87 Venture Standard that needs the aluminum engine covers polished, but I have to get the old, flaking, yellowed clearcoat off first. Once I get it off, I'll shine it up as best I can, then re-cover it with clearcoat. (spray can) Any suggestions?
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I knew, did you............ Before you read to the end, does anybody know what the main ingredient of WD-40 is? Don't lie and don't cheat. WD-40. Who knew? I had a neighbor who had bought a new pickup. I got up very early one Sunday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason). I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news. He was very upset and was trying to figure out what to do probably nothing until Monday morning, since nothing was open. Another neighbor came out and told him to get his WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck. I'm impressed! WD-40 who knew? 'Water Displacement #40' The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a 'water displacement' compound. They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Convair Company bought it in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts. Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40 that would hurt you. When you read the 'shower door' part, try it. It's the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass. It's a miracle! Then try it on your stove top ... Viola! It's now shinier than it's ever been. You'll be amazed. Here are some other uses: 1. Protects silver from tarnishing. 2. Removes road tar and grime from cars. 3. Cleans and lubricates guitar strings. 4. Gives floors that 'just-waxed' sheen without making them slippery. 5. Keeps flies off cows. 6. Restores and cleans chalkboards. 7. Removes lipstick stains. 8. Loosens stubborn zippers. 9. Untangles jewelry chains. 10. Removes stains from stainless steel sinks. 11. Removes dirt and grime from the barbecue grill. 12. Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing. 13. Removes tomato stains from clothing. 14. Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots. 15. Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors. 16. Keeps scissors working smoothly. 17. Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in homes. 18. It removes black scuff marks from t he kitchen floor! Use WD-40 for those nasty tar and scuff marks on flooring. It doesn't seem to harm the finish and you won't have to scrub nearly as hard to get them off. Just remember to open some windows if you have a lot of marks. 19. Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car if not removed quickly! Use WD-40! 20. Gives a children's playground gym slide a shine for a super fast slide. 21. Lubricates gear shift and mower deck lever for ease of handling on riding mowers. 22. Rids kids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises. 23. Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open. 24. Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and close. 25. Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers. 26. Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles. 27 Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans 28. Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling. 29. Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly. 30. Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and other tools. 31. Removes splattered grease on stove. 32. Keeps bathroom mirror from fogging. 33. Lubricates prosthetic limbs. 34. Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell). 35. Removes all traces of duct tape. 36. Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to relieve arthritis pain. 37. Florida 's favorite use is: 'cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers.' 38. The favorite use in the state of New York, WD-40 protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements. 39. WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a little on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no time. Also, it's a lot cheaper than the chemical attractants that are made for just that purpose. Keep in mind though, using some chemical laced baits or lures for fishing are not allowed in some states. 40. Use it for fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch. 41 WD-40 is great for removing crayon from walls. Spray on the mark and wipe with a clean rag. 42. Also, if you've discovered that your teenage daughter has washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry, saturate the lipstick spots with WD-40 and rewash. Presto! The lipstick is gone! 43. If you sprayed WD-40 on the distributor cap, it would displace the moisture and allow the car to start. P. S. The basic ingredient is FISH OIL.
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Hey all, I'm just getting back from Iraq and wanted to get the scoot out for a spin and knock the cob webs out of the exhaust. Well, lets just say when I opened the garage door I was not happy with what I found. Seems my boy decided to spray paint his dirt bike while I was gone. He took a can of white spray paint and commenced to spraying without taking any precaution to my bike sitting beside it. Needless to say, My bike has little specks of white all over it. The seats, the chrome, the bags....OH BOY......I'm really not happy with him. So instead of riding, I'm trying to find away to rub the white dots out without ruining the paint. Do any of you on this wonderfull site have any suggestions. Jim:bang head:
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Has anyone had a problem with spiders nesting under the saddle bags fenders and farings etc. On their royal star ventures? On 8/22/08 while cleaning my bike I found a large black widdow under the right saddle bag. I went to the store on 8/23/08 and purchased a can of spider spray and sprayed every where I saw a webb. 4 more large black widiws and their very tiny offspring came out of thier hiding places to die. Does any one have a solutin to this problem? I had went to my local dealer and asked if they thought that spider spray would harm the finish ? However, I am deathly afraid of spiders and sprayed the areas anyway. The spray did not seem to hurt the paint.
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I been fighting Yellow Jackets. They have built in the wall beside the door way entrance to my camp. Determined not to let me in. Round one I hit them with some foaming spray the other night. I think they enjoyed it. Tonight I tried a different spray and was able to get about 1/2 a can up where I think the nest might be. Both nest I have found this year are above ground. The first one was in the hitch on my fifth wheel camper. So far the score is Yellow Jackets 1 and me nothing. I'll know more tomorrow evening. I might have to level that place a little sooner then expected. I could try the old fish on a string above a pan of dish water but I got a pesky raccoon that upsets all Mamamo's flower pots at night.I plan on camping Friday night got family reunion at the park beside the camp this weekend.
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Ok folks, Eileen and I got home yesterday. Now I will start thinking about repairing the new scratch on top of my saddle bag. A few questions for any of you who have done this. The scratch is not real deep but deep enough that I can feel it. I may be able to sand it out but am not sure. Should I even try or should I used some type of filler? If so, what would be the best thing to fill it with? I will probably just order some matching paint from Colorrite. I think that one of their aerosol cans would be enough but from the customer reviews that I read there, the aerosol clear coat that they sell does not work well. The reports are that it does not spray well from the cans and there is a lot of problem with bubbles, uneven spray, etc. Have any of you ever tried it? Would I be better off just ordering the pint size non-aerosol and primer and having it shot at a bodyshop?
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Just got my frame back from the sandblasters- 50 bucks well spent. Wiped down with MEK, 2 coats primer on it tonite. Gotta wait till Wednesday night to start the painting process--- now mind you, I don't have the "elaborate" paint booth like Atlanta Dragonslayer has (!!!). Just gotta hang 'em up in the garage door and spray away! Using Rust-o-leum Professional Primer for enamel and their High Performance enamel Gloss Black. Should hold up for another 25 years! At least I hope so!!! Dan -
Would just like to get some feedback on what everyones opinions are on degreasers. Would like something to spray on motor and rinse off!
