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Showing results for tags 'splines'.
Found 17 results
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I have read as many threads as I can on this subject. All talk about "cleaning" the splines. 1) What chemicals/towels etc do I "clean the splines with? 2) Amounts- I am confused by how much Moly 60 to use. I have read somebody saying to use a drop on each spline. The picture that is referenced below is certainly more than that. I'm concerned about putting too much. 3) I am assuming the pumpkin is on the opposite side of the spline. I'm concerned about getting this thing off and not getting it back together. I have a 10 year old bike with 35,000. Is this something that I could watch someone do at a maint day and with a bike with only 35,000 am I in any short term danger if I just grease the splines I can see? Paranoid newbie
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Is there a trick to get the hub splines to line up with the wheel? I cant get it to slide on.
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how often should the rearsplines be greased?
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I need to know if this is correct. [ATTACH]43583[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43584[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43585[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43586[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]43587[/ATTACH] The thrust washer that is behind the basket that holds all the friction disks , It goes on the splines and then drops onto the flat round part leaving space and wiggles around is this correct ? There are no splines after that and under the clutch basket it self. Just wanted to make sure. Thanks, Jeff
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In a few months, I'll be taking off my rear tire for replacement. Now I also have to think about greasing the splines, etc. What parts should I have on hand, before I tackle the job: 1) J&H Jack - on hand 2) Carbon One with Legs - on hand 3) Bolt to remove the axle bolt - What size do I need for this? Socket? 4) Shaft Drive Seal part - (need 2) - part # 93108-43013-00 - will order soon. 5) Honda Moly60 Tube - will order soon. 6) Rear End Gear Oil - on hand 7) ??? 8) ???
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I removed the final drive differental to grease the splines while I have the rear tire off and when I removed the 4 bolts and the housing the drive shaft came out from the upper (transmisson) end. Looking up in the shaft tube there is a coupling that the splines slide into. My question is how do I get the shaft back into the coupling? Is there a way to get to the coupling from that end? I am going to try to align the two with a small stiff welding rod but if this does not work is there another way? Is there anything else I need to be aware of?
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Today when changing the tire on my 04 venture I decided to lube the shaft, when I pulled the tire off, to change it there was very little grease on the splines. when I pulled the rear end, the engine end of the drive shaft had very little grease on it. So I tried to pull the shaft from the pumpkin but could not, so I took a pair of vise grip pliers and grabbed the shaft then tapped the vise grips with a rubber hammer, shaft popped right out, but the seal tore on one side. I glued it with epoxy, greased the splines( which were dry) and went to put it back together. the rear end was lying on the bench with the splined area turned down, and oil came out. It was dry of oil when I first took it apart. Is this normal. Gregg
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I'm having a hell of a time getting the driveshaft to mate up with the u joint splines. Is there a trick to it or do I just have to fumble around for hours? -
I got a new rear tire for my 87 xvz1300. before putting it back together I realized the splines on the wheel were shot and the splines on the outward plate aren't much better. I figured no problemo I've got one on the 84 xvz1200 parts bike that I'll just swap out. Guess what, the wheel spline gear would work but the differentials are differant. The outer spline plates have differant bolt patterns. So, now I'm in need of either an entire final gear drive differential or just the outer plate if anyone has one they've dissected already. (86 and Up 1st gen XVZ1300). If any one has got one laying around they don't need and don't mind giving a fellow member a hand send me a PM. let me know what you want for it. -
I got a new rear tire for my 87 xvz1300. before putting it back together I realized the splines on the wheel were shot and the splines on the outward plate aren't much better. I figured no problemo I've got one on the 84 xvz1200 parts bike that I'll just swap out. Guess what, the wheel spline gear would work but the differentials are differant. The outer spline plates have differant bolt patterns. So, now I'm in need of either an entire final gear drive differential or just the outer plate if anyone has one they've dissected already. (86 and Up 1st gen XVZ1300). If any one has got one laying around they don't need and don't mind giving a fellow member a hand send me a PM. let me know what you want for it.
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Total maint. day today. Had the rear tire off and was cleaning the splines, but unsure how to get into the areas in the wheel where the splines go??????????? Found out that a 20 gauge shotgun brass bore brush works great on the end of a drill! Bought at Wally World for a buck and a half. Inserted on the end of my cordless and the brush cleaned out the holes super fast! I think I'll keep a cpl. in my tool box!
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I just cannot beleive it , I pulled my rear tire to change the rubber and to grease my splines for my first time yesterday and the splines had already greased up from past tire changes . Took my tire and wheel to the dealer to have them mounted and they only charged me $20.00 to mount and balance , incrediable ! And as I waited for the service to be preformed (30 minutes wait) they rolled it out to me , again , new fresh red tacky grease on the splines . I think I'm starting to like these guys a little bit more . But then again , several past visits they did get a peice of my mind . Wonder if they remembered that , :rotf:. BEER30
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Have a 1984 royal that has all of a sudden developed a noise that I can not find, When you put into gear and give any throttle heare a ratcheting sound , first i thought it was the splines on the inner clutch hub , tore down and is ok, sounded like it was there , does it in all gears, any ideas would be greatley appreciated. NASCAR0699 -
O.K. every time I look at fixing something I find more crap that was wrenched on by the previous owner that just pisses me off. I have had several problems with the starter not catching. It will turn sometimes and sometimes it just spins and you can hear it clicking on the other gears like it is trying to catch. I figured I was going to have to look at a new starter or the spindle anyway. So today I am trying to get the bike started after two weeks of straight rain, and it wont catch for nothing. I had a low battery to start with as it had been sitting for two weeks. So figured I would look at the starter. Well after 3 long and now drenched in coolant hours I managed to find the issue. Not only is one side of my radiator just hanging with NO SCREWS but the STARTER HAD NO SCREWS IN IT EITHER. WHAT THE *****.Well I tried to hold the starter in place while the wife hit the start switch but I am still getting a skip and grind going on. I looked at the starter and the splines are showing some wear but I do not think it would be enough to completely miss and free spin like it does. The gear inside the bike looks solid but I am not sure how much damage has been done since the BOLTS WERE MISSING. am hoping I do ont need to replace the gear in the engine. and the starter seams perfectly good it just shows slight signs of wear on the splines. I am going to see what the local stealer is going to charge me for these bolts but if anyone out there has a few starter bolts or the bolts that hold the radiator to the frame I would appreciate you letting me know how much they would cost me plus shipping charges. The splines just don't look like they are damages enough to miss.!?!?! http://www.rcspaducah.com/images/HPIM1086.jpg
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Greasing the Rear Drive Splines and greasing the Hub Pins on the RSV By Tartan Terror NOTE: Most of us here would recommend Honda Moly60 as the grease of choice for this application. It will do a great job and last much longer than other types. First thing you will need to do is raise the bike on a lift and remove the rear tire. For these operations look for the instructions in other articles in this tech area. After you have the wheel removed lay your rear tire flat on the ground or on a surface that you can work on it with the spline side facing up (Looks like a gear). http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image1.gif I removed the dust shield (Rubber ring around the base of the gear) but it is not necessary unless you want to clean everything thoroughly. Wipe around the top edge of the gear clean and you will find a snap ring. Look carefully because it is hard to miss. Use a pair of snap ring pliers that open to remove the ring and lift it off or gently grab it with a pair of pliers being careful not to stretch the ring. If you do not remove this ring you will be unable to remove the pins from the hub (I know this Cuz this dummy tried to do it!) After you have removed the ring pull on the gear and the pins should slide out. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image2.gif Once you have removed the pins clean off any rust on the pins with a piece of scotch brite so that they are smooth. Generously apply grease to the pins. I used lithium based grease but any good water proof grease will do. Below you will see a picture showing the pins, Snap ring, scotch brite pad, and dust boot ring. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image3.gif Reinsert the pins into the bushings and replace snap ring. Once again be careful not to stretch out the ring as it needs to fit tightly to keep it in the groove. If you removed the dust boot also replace that and make sure it is properly seated. Apply grease to the splines on the hub. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image4.gif And also on the splines in the differential. It will squeeze out any extra grease then you lift the wheel back up and slide the hub splines into the differential splines but here is where most of the noise is coming from. http://www.venturerider.org/hub/Image5.gif It’s as easy as that. Like I said before refer to the other articles in this section to reinstall the rear wheel. Now Get out and Ride it like you stole it!!!
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Took the 06 in and got the rear tire changed out after 6500 miles. What a quiet tire the Avon Venom is! 'Well, anyway, I thought that it was a given that the driveshaft splines would be dry as a bone? At least that's what so many of you have been saying. My driveshaft splines front and back had good grease; the hub had good grease. I am not complaining, only surprised. Greased her up with good moly anyway. Who has had dry? Who has had greasy? Jim:)
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This tech tip covers numerous possible solutions, including the proper alignment of the rear drive and simple greasing of parts of the final drive clutch hub. One point of clarification to pay attention to when talking to your dealer is the difference between the final drive "clutch hub drive pins" (also called Clutch Pins in the figure on page 3 of the Tech Tip), and the clutch hub "drive splines." The pins fit into damper bushings in the wheel assembly and are NOT visible until the hub is removed from the wheel. The drive splines are on the outside of the hub and mate to the final drive when the wheel is mounted to the bike. These splines are what you see on the left side of the wheel when you remove it from the bike. These are clearly labeled in the Tech Tip. If you have had the shop try to fix this noise at least once without success, the noise you hear is probably coming from dry "clutch hub drive pins," not the drive splines. If you tell your shop to make sure the "splines" are greased, they are probably doing just that, and this does NOT solve your problem. If we all use the correct terminology when talking about this problem, we have a much better chance of getting all these Yamaha mechanics educated about the right fix. Thanx for listening, Goose BTW - although I do not know this for sure, I also suspect that the noise is probably caused much more from bushings not fully seated (as described in the bulletin) than just dry pins, so the wear marks on the drive pins should be closely examined as described in the Tech Tip. __________________
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