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Showing results for tags 'solution'.
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My wrist is starting to give me trouble and I think it comes from using the throttle on the bike. This item seems to be the solution. Ever use one? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRAMP-BUSTER-Yamaha-VMax-VStar-V-Max-V-Star-650-1100-/230811191999?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ARoyal+Star&hash=item35bd6b4abf&vxp=mtr
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Been awhile since I've been on the forum. Been around since late 2004 when this all started. Have a 2005 RSV Speedometer, odometer, trip meters and and gas gauge all work. Cept at night its all in the dark. heard tell a new unit is $1K....can this be right and is there other solution. I've not pulled the fairing yet. Thought I'd get some feedback from one and all first. Also is there a fuse just for the LCD illumination back segments? thanks Jim -
I've read some old posts about this subject but wonder if there is something newer I've missed. To use my brake pedal, I have to raise my foot up off the footboard which does not provide much control of the brake pressure being applied. This is because the pedal is too far back. I'd like to be able to keep my heel on the board and the only solution I see is to lengthen the pedal three or four inches. Anyone out there have a different solution?
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A waterproof solution for those annoying washers. Gary
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Just took my RSV out of the shop after winter upgrades. It is running great, however, ..... When I hit it hard, the darn clutch slips. I have an upgraded Skydoc17 spring and have done the Freebird mod. If I drive normally, it doesn't slip. But if I really hammer it, the clutch slips in second and third gear. I was travelling too fast at the time to see if it would also slip in fourth, but I'm sure it will. I am looking for a solution so I don't have to deal with this every couple of years. OK, the question is: Barnett clutch with coil springs? Is that the most solid solution? Getting to the point that I don't care about the cost. RR
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Ever been called a dumb a$$, and known it was true? Finally had a chance to work on my carbs last night. All the screws that hold the carbs together are rounded off, so its time to break out the dremel. I get half the head of the first screw cut off, and the screw is still tight. So I do the obvious: grab the hammer and screwdriver to chisel the other half of the screw head off. Not sure why that seemed a viable solution. So now I need a carb body. And according to my wife, some common sense. Oh well, we all make mistakes, some just cost more than others. Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk -
I have always wanted to fly "OLD GLORY" on my bike, but have heard from others stories of broken antenna mast's one after the other. Has anyone come up with a solution to this matter?
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Does anyone know of where you can get replacement studs for a pillow top seat (drivers) for a 2003 RSV? Or maybe have a homemade solution to fix them? I'm talking about the threaded mounting studs that bolt the seat on to the frame.
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I am looking for ideas, suggestions or any help in designing my trailer, with conversion wheels kit as base to start with. I picked up this conversion kit while purchasing my 91 VR, with matching colors and mags it looks good. Short cargo box for cars could be a solution, but some are to skimpy for long haul vibrations, is there box manufacturers for my applications. Thanks Mike:lightbulb:
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Found the solution for you Buddy! http://www.jabrdeals.com/?fuseaction=business.groupbuy.publicpage.main&deal_id=11301
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Hey guys, I need your input on an idea I came up with to provide a total seat solution that will allow you to remove both seats without any tools. For some time now several of us have come up with seat nut solutions that allow us to remove the driver seat without any tools. These have ranged from plastic nuts, wing nuts and my solution of using a nylon locking nut pressed and glued into a Press-Fit knob. But, this solution requires some extra assembly work where I have to drill out the center of the knob, tap threads into the nylon ring in the lock nut to the point of just the right friction on the seat bolt, and then glue and press this nut backwards into a press-fit knob, where the glue I use requires overnight to dry properly. Right now I have been selling my seat thumb nuts for $6 which includes postage to anywhere in the US. So for another $2, I could also provide a set of stainless press-fit thumb bolts. And putting these together is just a matter of pressing the stainless allen bolt into the same knurled knob and it's ready to go. So with both of these, you would have a total tool less seat solution. So if you don't mind, let me know what you think of this idea. I have attached a picture of both sets of seat nuts/bolts. Thanks, Rick And FYI 1st Gen owners....I already provide a total tool less seat solution for your bikes -
Ride a 2007 RSTD. Want to replace the front floorboards with pegs; the purpose is so my heels can drop which will lessen the pinch/strain in my hips. I've been looking and asking, with no success. My current option is to cut off the back of the front floorboards. That will get me the drop I want. It would be nice if there were a different solution. Any suggestions? And no, not new 'forward controls'. Way too expensive, and won't solve the issue. Thanks.
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Yanno, that one from the pickle thing to the airbox? Mine is hard and somewhat breaking at the top and as you know, it can take 45 minutes at times to get that hose on the bottom of the airbox. So, just order another one from yammi, get hose from AutoZone that is a bit longer or is there another solution? -
Subject: Health care solution If you can't afford a doctor, go to an airport - you'll get a free x-ray and a breast exam, and if you mention Al Qaeda, you'll get a free colonoscopy. Health care ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________
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peeing outside she said, "Peeing on the ground out side would not be tolorated anymore." So here is my solution. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3219/2678471673_2631127e24.jpg
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I've had this article hanging around for some time, so I figured I'd post it, maybe someone here is brave enough to anodize their cylinder head covers? I don't remember where I originally got it from, but I made some changes to it myself, and so far so good! Supplies Needed: The first thing to do is to get the following things together: First on the list is the most expensive item: a 6 to 12 volt battery charger. They run from $45.00 to $110.00 depending on model, functions, etc. The next item, though not that expensive, will take some effort to find: battery electrolyte, a.k.a. sulfuric acid. This should be available at a battery wholesaler for about $2.00/gal. AutoZone sells it for $5.00, but it's only enough to fill a scoot battery. To make the negative ground, you will need some aluminum ground wire and aluminum-foil. The wire can be found at an electronics store for about $35/spool, and you should have the foil in the kitchen. If you happen to be out of foil, you can pick up some more at the store when you go to buy the last item for this project. No super-special chemicals or solutions necessary to make the colors; just plain-old fabric dye. (Something like Rit dye, for about $5.00.) Rit offers something like 30-40 different colors, so you have quite a number of choices for what color you want your parts to be. If you want to go hard-core, you can order anodizing dye online. An optional item is nitric acid: about $25.00/2.5 L. (This is used to clean parts prior to anodizing, but there are some cheaper alternatives. See end notes.) This is available at chemical supply stores. Should you not be able to find any, you can try to get on the good side of the high school science teacher. He may help you out since you only need a few ounces. Safety Precautions: There are a few precautions I want to go over to help keep you from blowing up the house or trashing the garage. First of all, do not mix or store your anodizing solution in a glass container. Something could happen to make it break, and most households are not equipped to deal with that kind of spill. You also don't want to knock over the container, so a stable, rubber bucket makes a good choice. You will also need to be certain that the part you want to color will fit in the container without sticking out of the solution, and without touching the negative ground in the bottom of the container. Any acid that you don't use, keep in what it came in, or an old plastic bottle, like a bleach bottle. You can also store your used solution this way for doing more parts later. (Make sure that there is absolutely no bleach left in the bottle. Acid and bleach make chlorine gas. Very bad. Don't breathe. Poisonous.) Safety also applies to the nitric acid, but in a different way. It is imperative that you label and keep track of this stuff, as it is a stronger acid than sulfuric, and more dangerous. The breakage/spill problem is not as likely since you won't have that much around. (Unless you bought more than a few ounces from the chem store.) The last note about the acids is to mix properly when adding acid and water. Always pour acid into water, never the other way, and do so slowly, being sure to mix in well. There is a reaction taking place and it releases a lot of energy. During the anodizing process, you will be running electricity through a weak acid solution. This creates hydrogen (just like charging a battery) which is very flammable. This stuff burns at the speed of thought when ignited, so do be careful. (Read as Remember the Hindenburg?) Make certain that there is some way to ventilate the project area, and DO NOT let any sources of ignition (NO SMOKING) near the project area. Other precautions you should take include safety glasses, rubber gloves, and maybe some sort of drop sheet under the area. Preparations: One of the most essential things you need to do in order to get even color over the whole part is to be sure that the part is absolutely clean. You want it free of all contaminates, from dirt to the oils in your skin. This is where the nitric acid and some rubber gloves will help. A solution of 1-2 ounces of nitric acid in a gallon of distilled water will allow you to clean the surface in preparation for the anodizing. Aluminum oxidizes very quickly when exposed to air, so the easiest way to keep it clean is to clean it just before you are ready to start working on the piece. (You should rinse the part with distilled water before you put it in the next acid solution.) Other options are carburetor or brakes cleaners, or other similar degreasers. Soap and water will work also, or cleaners like Simple Green. These are cheaper, a nitric acid wash is the best. (You decide, it's your money.) =) Make your negative ground with the aluminum wire and foil. Shape the end of the wire into a paddle shape and cover the round part with the foil. What you want to do is create a flat, round shape to sit on the bottom of the bucket, with a lead that comes up the side, and out of the bucket. You will clip the battery charger's negative lead to the wire that comes out of the bucket. When you are ready to start, you will want to mix up your immersion solution. In your rubber bucket, combine the sulfuric acid and water to come up with a solution that is about 30% water. (1 part water to 2 parts acid.) Place the paddle in the bucket and attach the negative lead. Then attach the positive lead to the part, making it an anode, and immerse it in the solution. (Remember that the two leads the paddle (cathode), and the part (anode) should not touch.) This is the best time to turn on the charger: once the part begins to fizz, leave it in there for about 10-15 minutes. After about this time the part should no longer conduct electricity. (You can also use an ohmmeter to check conductivity, but this is not needed.) Turn off and disconnect everything, and rinse the part in cold water. Don't use hot water! You'll find out why in the next section. A couple of notes: I have read some other procedures that say it is important that the copper lead from the charger does not enter the acid solution. The article says nothing about this, and shows a picture with the lead right in there. It may take some trial and error to find out if this is a problem. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get some scrap aluminum and play with it before you start anodizing your parts. You can check out the above, as well as pick the colors you like best. If you test out some colors, you'll also learn just how long or short you need to work with the color solution. Color: So now it doesn't conduct electricity, and is ready for color. It's been rinsed and waits eagerly to change to a new look. Don't wait too long to do the color, due to that oxidizing thing again. You want to mix up a strong solution of dye and water, in a container that can be heated. The solution needs to be at low heat, such as on the stove, so bread and cake pans work well. Again, you need something that will fit the whole part, but it's okay if it touches the bottom this time. I would recommend turning parts every few minutes just to make sure that you get all-over color. Inform your mom or wife that the pan can (and will be) washed out. It is important that the heat be low enough. If the solution gets too hot, you will seal the surface, and it will no longer take any color. (See, told you to rinse it in cold water!) Leave it in the dye until the part is slightly darker than you want it. The next step is to seal the surface of the metal in clean, boiling water. This will leech a bit of color from it, thus the slightly darker color in the previous step. End Notes: Also, this process is for aluminum. I don't know how, or if, it will work on other metals. (I doubt it.) Anodizing works great on billet, not so well on castings. If it was forged or machined, it should have the density to take color through this process. Something to consider when looking for a charger, is how many amperes it puts out. Without getting into any mumbo-jumbo, anodizing relies on 10 to 40 amperes per square foot. For small brackets and such, this is no problem. The larger parts however, may need the higher levels of amperes. The other note about part size, has to do with how long you leave it in the solution. Above it said 10-15 minutes, but that is for a smaller part. The larger parts may not only need higher amperes, but more time as well. I would recommend an ohmmeter, but again, I have one already. So there you have it. Quick, fairly easy, and not too expensive. If you don't have the charger, then your first anodizing session could cost as much as sending your parts out to be done. But, then you can do it again for much less. Or do your buddies stuff. Or talk them into chipping in on a setup for all of you to use. We all know ways to help make things cheaper. And the stupid statement required to cover myself... If you try this and something gets messed up, or someone gets hurt, you are on your own. Deal with it, you can't blame it on anyone else.
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Ok, before I decided to fix my original tank, I took RandyR up on his offer to sell a gas tank to me. only caveat is that it is a black tank. I just set it on the frame and took some pics, I kind of like it. opinions anyone?? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ solution B is that Jus Monkeying Around member was a big factor in fixing my original tank and that I should have it painted. He offered to pick up supplies and help me do the repair. Well at the Houston Maint Day, we did just that. We fixed the hole and another Hal is going to paint it. I will post that later as it comes along.
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Riding as a passenger, my wife gets a lot of wind on her legs. This makes her uncomfortable (duh)...what is the best way to keep her warm back there (CAREFUL with the suggestions!!!!)? I know there are the Buddy Rich devices to help the rider, but am unaware of anything like that for the navigator. We have considered chaps or the Kevlar jeans that are currently being discussed, but are not convinced either of these would be the best solution. What have y'all done to rectify this situation? I guess I need to add...the problem is when we leave sunny Texas...you guys are TOO much!!!!
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Hi, Anyone have any info on whether 2 '84's could be parked side by side inside a Trike sized BikeBarn? http://www.thebikebarn.net/images/smartbarn_sidecar.jpg I guess what it comes down to is: can they be parked side by side in less than 72"? Which is the response from the good folks at BikeBarn. I am thinking I may need to use a nose to tail apporoach. My bikes are still in winter storage in my dad's garage so I can't run out and measure. I am looking for a storage solution for next winter, as dad's garage will not be available to me then. The BB and a bit of real estate in my side garden, is looking like my best solution so far. Thoughts, advice, experience, 2 bikes handy to measure? Thanks, Brian H. PS, there seems to be a free shipping sale on at BB till the end of March!
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Lost one of the lenses on my rear lightbar, can these still be found new? or has anyone replaced the whole unit (with a LED one)? Also need a solution for the airdam lights, one has crumbled on the inside so I either need a nother one or find a replacement solution in which case i'll have one to "give" away.
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I have an 83 standard and I'm looking for some options to add stereo. Looking for advice, someone has already has a good solution , just need to find it. Ran across this, looks interesting: Jensen JHD-910 http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Jensen-Jhd910-Heavy-Duty-Waterproof-Mini-Am-Fm-Wb-Stereo-With-Audio-Aux-In.aspx Jensen MSR2007 http://www.cbxmanmotorcycles.com/Jensen-Msr2007-Marine-Modular-Marine-Am-Fm-Ipod-Sirius-Satellite-Ready-Stereo.aspx
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The Perfect Solution to Senior Health Care While discussing the upcoming Universal Health Care Program with my sister-in-law the other day, I think we have found the solution. I am sure you have heard the ideas that if you're a senior you need to suck it up and give up the idea that you need any health care. A new hip? Unheard of. We simply can't afford to take care of you anymore. You don't need any medications for your high blood pressure, diabetes, heart problems, etc. Let’s take care of the young people. After all, they will be ruling the world very soon. So here is the solution. When you turn 70, you get a gun and 4 bullets. You are allowed to shoot 2 senators and 2 representatives. Of course, you will be sent to prison where you will get 3 meals a day, a roof over your head and all the health care you need!!! New teeth, great!!! Need glasses, no problem. New hip, knee, kidney, lung, heart? Well bring it on. And who will be paying for all of this. The same government that just told you that you are too old for health care. And, since you are a prisoner, you don't have to pay any income tax. I think we have a Perfect Solution!!!
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When it's hot out I ride with fingerless gloves. After a day of riding my fingers have been stained black from the handgrips. What's the solution to this? Is there something I can use to clean the grips to help prevent this from happening? I figured you guys would know something about problem and have some good advice for me. Changing grips is not a solution. I had the Kuryakyn grips on my Valkyrie and got tired of them. Thanks
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Question: I got a new computer and it doesn't have Word program loaded on it yet. Does anyone have a solution to where I might fnd the program without breaking the bank?
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Do any of you drink coffee while you are riding? Can you post a photo of your cup holder? I cant find a good solution to this situation....
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