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Showing results for tags 'snap'.
Found 9 results
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Say huh? Yep, my grandson Shane was called this morning from the Snap On Tool salesman to advise him that he was the winner of a Snap On Tool drawing that he had signed up for when he bought a couple of tools. It is really neat as from the outside, it looks like a large tool chest, but it opens from the top to be a deep freezer. Only the bottom doors open to where the compressor and plumbing is located. Randy Please disregard the camera markings as I probably should have used more pixals.
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Are there any pics with instructions for how to remove my screen from my 2nd gen, on the site? Did a search & can't turn anything up. Don't want to snap anything!!! So I'm asking the experts!
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950190000P Now I have only always bought snap on, but snap on does NOT offer a motorcycle jack. I have a local sears and can order online, pick up at store. This one look OK????
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For those of you changing your rear tire in the future I have a new snap ring that I don't need. Part number 99009-52500. Fits Gen 2 only. Would ask that you really can use it instead of throwing it in the tool box. Lower 48 only. PM address. Oh! It's free. hh
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Buy it now of $45. Somebody better snap it up! LINK
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Well, Karen and I rode 650 miles south through the cold and rain to get to Daytona. I woke up this morning and it's 50 degrees outside. I heard that it's some kind of record cold snap down for this time of year. I'm ready for some warm air.
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My local Yamaha Dealer is desperate to get sales, he has a set of the 2nd gen Helmet headsets for $50.00. Will the 2nd Gen headsets work on the 1st gen? If so I'm gonna snap these 2 up as it seems that most online are 4X this price.
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Bought all the components to rebuild the forks on my 87 VR. Installed all new parts and reassembled the forks. All went well until I seated the seals. Found they would not drive in far enough to install both the top spacer (gold colored upper spacer) and the snap ring. No such luck as it appeared the seal wasn't bottomed out enough to allow both spacer and snap ring.Bought a seal driver and tried to get the seal to bottom. Thought they were hydro locked by grease lube. No such luck as the seal driver would not bottom out the seal, in fact it was telling me they were already bottomed. Finally decided the seal must be the issue so disassembled the forks to remove some grease. Found when I compared the old seal with the new ones that the new seals were thicker by exactly the thickness of the top spacer. Reassembled the forks and left out the top spacer and installed the snap ring. The forks are back together and hold air fine. Bottom line is to compare the seals before assembly. Wasted a lot of time but the fix was simple once I knew the problem. The snap ring above the seal is all that's needed to tightly retain the seal and top bushing, the top spacer takes up the slack with the thinner stock seal (lower spacer (silver) is in place). Anyone ever run into the same thing?
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(Or what I did instead of going to Houston for Red Lobster) So, the bike needed new tires. Bought a set of Continental ContiTours from Dennis Kirk. Then I picked up a set of rims on e-Bay. Mount and balance then just swap out. Sounds great in the master plan. Pull the seals to get sized at the local bearing house. Man says not a problem. Also order new bearings. Get a new drive side bearing from the dealer. RIGHT!!! The local dealer wants $68.00!!! Start calling and get a lead on one for $39.00. Get it coming for this past Thursday. Guy from the seal house calls and can't find the seals. Too special but he can order. Tell him ok and go for the Stealership. They have 3 of 4 seals. Go home and take front wheel off and kneel the bike forward. Worked great and I did remember a ratchet strap for the center stand. Start on the rear. Muffler off and set aside, loosen axle shaft a bit to make sure all is ok. Remove caliper bolts in rear and the threads come out with the bolts. Rats-helicoil time. Mutter and loosen the 4 shaft tube nuts and put 1 back as a holder. Pull the axle and drop the wheel perfectly. Wipe down and pull snap ring and remove drive hub. Wait, snap ring groove? The e-Bay wheel didn't have that!! Call tire man in the AM. Already mounted and balanced. Take the disc off my original wheel and take over. Sure enough the drive hub was removed without taking off the snap ring. Would have liked to see the force required to break the entire center of the wheel off! Tire guy charges me for 3 changes and off I go. Want to go to Houston for meet and eat so I drive to Austin and get the last seal. Now I know why I only pulled 3 seals. The broken off end had the fourth. Stop at Harbor Freight and pick up a blind hole bearing puller set. (On sale for $29.00) Go to bolt place and get 10mm x 1.25 permacoil kit. Auto parts - $75.00 and bolt place $32.00. Now I am ready to go. Only it is 6:30 PM on Friday. Decide to quit and repair on Saturday. Reassembly and bearing replacement is smooth. The puller kit made it a snap. All cleaned, greased, neverseized, and blue locktited. Perma-coils put on right on bike without removing caliper. Pictures galore taken and all buttoned up. Guessed at the torque on the rear axle. Calls for 110 ft.-lbs. Used a wrench and white knuckles method. It turns well and no binding. Brake caliper on and holding great. Now I get to clean up in the AM. I have seal sizes and bearing numbers for later. I will post the pics and do a write-up for the archives. Oh, the e-Bay guy is giving me back my rim money. It was $9.99. I got both rims, the radio, amp, and whole wiring harness for $60.00 delivered so the money isn't a problem. I explained what it took to break the hub and suggested that his shop monkeys learn to wipe off stuff and not use a shop press and torch for disassembly. Long-winded story JB
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