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Showing results for tags 'slide'.
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A couple of years ago Condor wrote that the difference between the carb diaphragm slides from a 1200 and a 1300 was one had a larger vent hole. It appears to me that that is the case -- and the vent hole on the 1300 is noticeably larger. I am replacing one cracked slide housing (the black plastic part) on a 1200, so the question is can I use a 1300 slide without any problem? I also thought about using JB Weld and re- drilling the hole to the 1200 size. Has anyone done this? Last two questions - is there any place to buy 1200 slides cheap? If not does anyone have one 1200 slide (even one in pieces that I can reglue) that they care to part with? -
Just looking for everyones take on the carb slide vacum hole location when reassembling carb slides on my 87. It looks like they should point down at 6:00. -
I am looking for 1 carb slide for a 87 1300 . The diaphram does not have to good and I do not need the needle or attaching pieces. All I need is the black slide since I dropped one of mine and busted the top of it. Thanks and everyone have a Merry Christmas:fingers-crossed-emo
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I was installing my JBM carb diaphragms, and I got a little to energetic getting the metal ring out and a carb slide broke apart. Anybody have one that I can buy? The condition of the diaphragm isn't important, I've got the new one to install. It's for a 1st Gen, MK II (89). Thanks, Frank D.
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Just reassembling my '86 VR and have a stupid question about the little bracket located beneath the front of the fairing. This bracket has a grommet on each end that appears to slide up over two pins protruding from the bottom of the headlight assembly. My problem is this: I hang the left side of the fairing on the bike, and all the mounting holes line up perfectly. All, that is, except this little bracket. Per the shop manual, there is a screw on each fairing half that secures to the fairing. It appears that the grommet on each side should slide up and over the headlight "pin". I have tried assembling it with and without the bracket attached to the fairing and either way, it doesn't fit. It's missing alignment with the headlight pins by almost 1/2"...maybe more like 3/8". Strange as it may seem, the fairing will not "stretch" enough to compensate for this. Does the headlight have to come off in order to get everything to align, and then reinstall the headlight bucket? Or am I somehow just assembling something in the wrong order? The bracket will only go on one way, unless I'm missing something. Has me baffled! -
Does anyone have after market mufflers on their trike.Tryed for two hrs to put Rk on mine ,would not slide on header far enough. I want a little more sound but not real loud.
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I spent the day doing some delayed maintenance on Brownie after a long winter of bike rehab. After the slide I put her thru last fall, she spent most of the winter in a Body shop getting a fresh makeover on the left side. Today i checked over most areas of the bike and changed oil, and used pledge or some form of polish on almost every area of the bike. I think Brownie is looking fine and she is ready for another year of riding. brian
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I want to put a fleece on my set just to cushion it up a bit, but don't want to cut it more than I have to. The best way to accomplish this would be to remove the driver backrest, so all I would have to do is cut about a 1 1/2" square out of it, slide it over the post and replace the backrest. There is a small screw at the top of the post that I would have thought would allow me to slide off the backrest, but it's still on there pretty good. I don't want to break anything so I'm not forcing it. Is there something else I need to do in order to remove it? The bike is a 2001 Royal Star. http://members.storm.ca/~cameron_antaya/ventureseat1.jpg http://members.storm.ca/~cameron_antaya/ventureseat2.jpg
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Hi there venture riders, I am posting a thread for the first time ever and here! I have enjoyed this forum since I bought my 83' venture 1200 and now have a reason to find some help. My bike ran good but lacked full power, I took off air box and noticed left rear diaphram slide not opening. I took outside cap off and found the metal sleeve seperated from the plastic slide. I took a little epoxy and reassembled properly, diaphram looked great. I started the bike and checked operation ( all 4 working properly) it now when warm idles at 3000 rpm. Checked choke and throttle cables lubed them and saw they were operating properly. I feel this is a vacuum related issue and can't find the fix Thanks in advance for any help, this bike is my only transportation right now.
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men be careful what you wish for.....because many times wishes come true...... as represented here by the beautiful women of VR.... there was suggestion of a possible calendar or photo shoot of some of our lovely ladies........ so here they are for your viewing pleasure....... enjoy !!! this is a zipped power point slide show...you will need to click a few times to get to open the slide show...once open please click on each picture to advance to the next
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http://scaleofuniverse.com/ Slide the slider left or right ... very cool !
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Hi, I just aquired a 85 Venture and the bike is running pretty rough. Will only run and idle with the choke on and will not rev over 3000rpm. If you throttle it quickly the bike will sputter and stall, if you slowly feather the throttle the bikes RPM will climb. I'm 99% certain that there are 2 issues. 1) Carb is dirty. I have taken the airbox off, and sprayed the carbs down and also ran a tank of seafoam with premium fuel through the bike. This seemed to have helped alot but it still won't run over 3000RPM. 2) After reading alot of posts on here I think I have a bad diaphragm. I say this because one of the sliders has no vacuum and slides back and forth with 0 effort as the other 3 have vacuum and you can hear it as you slide the slide. A couple questions... Is there anyone is Winnipeg that would be willing to help me clean these carbs and replace the diaphragm (I would definitely pay you for your time), and if not, are my assumptions correct with the carb diaphragm being shot seeing that the slide moves with 0 effort? Thanks in advance! Ben Also will sell this bike for $1975.00 OBO -
I find myself at a crossroads AGAIN ! I currently have a Motorola Droid but it's not global. I guess when I got it, it fell into the window of non-global droids. So, I have to get another phone and the HTC Incredible seems to be the one - it doesn't have a slide out keyboard (I don't need that type) and is lighter. Anybody have one of the Incredibles and if so any problems ?
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Have a quick question for you all, I am trying to put the venture back together after the teardown for the 2nd gear and I have come to the point of putting the carbs back on the bike. I have also replaced the throttle cables and I just wanted to be sure I didn't miss something. So here is the question; Will the carb diaphrams slide when you twist the throttle while the bike is not running? Mine do not slide at this time?? thanks in advance. mike
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I finally bought a dremel kit, mainly to fix a few broken tabs on the fairing but I'm sure it will be very useful for other things too. What's up with the drum sander bit? There is a rubberish drum on an armature and some sanding tubes that apparently slide on the drum. There is nothing I can see that will hold the tubes in place and even light pressure makes them slide up or down. Obvious or not, what am I missing?
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I need to find the slide diaphrams for my 83 VR. I have found the complete slide assembly but I just need the diaphrams. I can't find any specificially for the Venture but I find them for XS and XJ11. Since they are both BS34 carbs are the diaphrams the same? I know the slide part is a different diameter so the assemblys will not interchange. Sirius Consoladated has some listed but out of stock now. Anyone have a set to sell or know another source for them.
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I have read as many posts as I can about replacement diaphragms for the 83 Venture Royale... but can't seem to be able to locate who might sell the diaphragms only, without the slide, for an inexpensive fix... Does anybody know anyone who currently sells these diaphragms and how I can get in touch with them? Thanks, Joel:12101: -
Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. 6. Nearly in one piece again. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Just thought I would share this experience with you. Having stripped my machine down and doing a complete service on it before the Spring I tried to remove the slide pins from the front brake to strip the calipers down and clean them and change the pads whilst I was at it. At first I carefully tried to remove the offending pins. Needless to say they would not come loose and the allen key just stripped the head even after tapping it to try to loosen any corrosion. I soaked them for a few days in release oil on the caliper. I ordered four new ones but was amazed to find the part number had been changed from 4TT-25914-00-00 to 5JU-259141-00-00. (I'll explain later). The lower one on each side of the caliper came out no problem by inserting a torque bit no. CR-MV 45 into the rounded allen hole after a little bit of tapping with a hammer. I did have visions at one stage of having to drill them all the way out. The upper of the two pins were real pigs I ended up drilling through the center of the head with first a 4.5mm drill, followed by a 7mm drill and lastly a 9mm drill go as deep as the thread so you can get the other torque bit in comfortably, this was a CR-MV 10 has more splines on it and gets a good grip. They came out easily with a ratchet and attachment. Be aware that the caliper pistons retract as you work on the brake so I periodically operated the brake lever to put them back into position. I could find no signs of corrosion on any of the four pins, they were clean and looked almost new. The part has changed from an allen bolt to a 12mm socket head in line with all newer models, I did comment at the time I ordered the new parts that if I knew these newer type pins would fit I would have had some of them fitted. It turned out that they did fit and the reason for the part number change was obvious. I applied copious amounts of copper slip to the pins on re-assembly and torqued them to the recommended 25nm. Did Yamaha know something I did not, before I started this? Key to photographs. 1. Slide pins. 2. Left to right. Lower right caliper. Lower left caliper. Upper right caliper. Upper left caliper 3. Two torque bits. 4. Torque bit fully home in 9mm hole. 5. The new slide pin, with copious amounts of copper slip. Neil. (Old Miner).
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I have no idea why my Friend's call me "CRAZY" ...Im Just Having Fun( the photo was transfer from a slide,)
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Is there a trick to get the hub splines to line up with the wheel? I cant get it to slide on.
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Really an amazing sight..... This is not a"Mud Slide" but a "Land Slide" You may have all heard about the recent landslides in Italy . But up to now I have never seen one as it was happening. Use the link below and you will see a whole hillside in an Italian residential neighborhood slowly slide away taking grown trees with it..... Click here >>>>>> http://sorisomail.com/email/42722/ja-viram-desmoronar-uma-montanha.html
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Needed 1 used first gen carb slide. If any one has 1 old but usable carb slider for an 83 first gen Smaller bore than the 2nd gen. , can you PM me. skydoc_17 put me on to a problem i was having and sure enough he was dead on (as usual ). I had one slide come loose and was not opening all the way. superglue repair and carb sync and its a new beast. all the rest of mine are OK but the chipped up one , and I hate to run it (even though it runs great now) with it knowing its condition. let me know. thanks. Maindog -
The reason my VR has been steadly running worse. I replaced the diaphrams last fall, with good results. I prepared myself for the replacement of several components that had obvious issues. My intake boots looked as though they were breathing better than I could, as well as the nozzle and needle set being harmonously worn out. I ordered the boots form the Serius folks, as well as the rest of the required parts from cheapparts.com. I decided to tear into it this weekend, but it really started fussing at me yesterday. I came home today, got into the first level of disassembly and after the airbox was off, I jiggled all the slides out of habit. I noticed that #2 slide was frozen in the closed position. I jiggled the others and #1 seemed weird, so I remove the cap before pulling the carb assembly. Ready for this? As #1 cap came off, the diaphram and the spring came out wrapped up in each other. Inspection of the slide showed the internal aluminum sleeve had come out of the composite body of the slide, allowing the diaphram to seperate and leave the slide to act on its own. Just when you think youv'e seen it all. It apppears to be a salvagable effort but sheese............Its all good, should have it worked out by Friday. Then off to the Hill Country to try out these E-3'S! -
If any one has 1 old but usable carb slider for an 83 first gen Smaller bore than the 2nd gen. , can you PM me. skydoc_17 put me on to a problem i was having and sure enough he was dead on (as usual ). I had one slide come loose and was not opening all the way. superglue repair and carb sync and its a new beast. all the rest of mine are OK but the chipped up one , and I hate to run it (even though it runs great now) with it knowing its condition. let me know. thanks. maindog.
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