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Showing results for tags 'signal'.
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And what type is used in the rsv? that is the number and shape of the prongs. -
Hi, I'm a new member with a new to me -84 xvz 1200. Quick question: should the engine run without the fairing ( radio, intercom, signal lights etc ), it should, right ? Got the bike a week ago. It started and ran well. Due to the winter wasn't able to do a proper test drive, but it idled ok. Started several times. I took the farings off and now the lights come on , the computer seems ok, it cranks but doesn't fire up. The battery is not the issue, I use backup fullycharged battery when testing. To my understanding only wires I disconnected were radio, signal lights, speakers, emergency signal, intercom. Are any of those connected to spark circuit ? I also sprayed some starter liquid to air box while starting, with no success. I seem to have lost the spark. I didn't see any badly made jumps in the wiring, I assume it's standard wiring other than fuse box. That has been changed. Bikes has 52 thousand miles on the clock. There are some minor cracks in the front fairing. I think it's royal with class system removed. This is my first touring bike, and also my first bike so much modern tech I've previously had xj900, cb 750, gsx750 all from early 80,s. Simple bikes for simple rider. XVZ seems to have more electronics than those together. It's gonna be 3-4 months winter where I live, before riding season starts. During that my aim is to repair fairing cracks, clean carbs, check valves, clean starter motor, change all fluids .... Been following this forum for a while, didn't want to sign up before I owned the bike. There seems to be huge knowhow within the group. I'll check the plugs and report back. Thanks, Anssi
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'63 t-bird turn signal arm in man's arm from accident 50 years ago just removed. Turn Signal From 1963 Car Wreck Removed From Illinois Man's Arm - NBC News
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Merry Christmas Venture family! Is it possible to get some technical advice from the electrical gurus here, I own a 08 Cadillac SRX, it has one quirk that can not seem to be solved even at the dealer! The daytime running light bulbs will burn out repeatedly . Sometimes within a week of replacing them. When that happens the signal lights will flash fast and the rear LED taillights will do all kinds of weird things. I just replaced the bulbs last week and they went out again. Both rear taillights will flash when I turn on the right or left signal and the brakes are applied. The systems are all tied together in the computer and all the research tells me its the cars way of telling me the bulbs are burned out. I have changed the bulb sockets as suggested by GM replaced the bulbs cleaned and checked the sockets and plugs. All the other lights are operational. To change the bulbs one has to remove the front wheels and take the complete inner fender off to get at the housing for the bulbs. To do both sides it can take a couple of hours. who in the world designed this? On to my question, can I replace these bulbs with a LED and hook some kind of resistor inline to fool the computer into believing it has a incandescent bulb in it? Kind of like the battery probe mod on my 1st gen? How would I find the right resistor to use ? From what I have found online the bulbs get hot, and the sockets get hard and cause a bad connection, high resistance and the element will burn out. I am not sure if the DRLs can be disabled and have everything else work as it should. Im at a loss. I wanted to sell the car but I sure would feel bad if a new owner had the problem and it caused a wreck because of the signal lights. Any ideas?
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I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics. Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in. You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage. If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front." http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair *** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal GEN-7.5-30 $15.25 100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules" http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95 There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us. I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED. Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada. Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"
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Finally got all my lights hooked up and the front end of the bike back together. Changes include HID low beams, "blacked out" headlight pods, and smoke signal lenses. Painted the signal light pods black. Also added new lower cowl driving lamps. Third pic shows the left signal ON. All shots were taken in daylight inside my shop. [ATTACH]73331[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]73332[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]73333[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]73334[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]73335[/ATTACH]
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Just received the Signal Dynamics Light Bar and have a wiring question. My RSV already has the LED light/spoiler on the top of the trunk (I think it is an OEM accessory) and I traced the wiring from that light under the seat and up to (or past) the battery. My question is this, I can either strip some insulation on existing wiring under the seat and solder the light bar wiring to it or I could cut the wires and put in a couple spade plugs (and seal things to keep out moisture) to allow easy removal of the trunk if needed. Any advantages to either method? I'm guessing either one would work but want to get the thoughts of those that have a better handle of electrical systems. Thanks! -
Where is the dang thing? The schematic in the book says it has 3 wires, Br, Br/W, and Y/G. But I don't see it. I switch to LED's and want to put in an electronic turn signal relay. Thanks, Bill
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I want to add a single pushbutton that will override the fan sensor and run the cooling fan, but then reset when I start moving. I know how to wire up 3 relays to do a latch on fron a single press of a button and use a 12V trigger to reset it. I figure I can use the Turn signal cancel signal that will cancel the turn signals when you go above 25mph to reset my fan override. Does anyone know where that signal comes from and if it is 12 volts? -
Ok, before I hit the fleaBay curcuit again I know some of you are parting out some 1st gens. I find myself in need of at least one, if not both of the jointed mounting studs that tie the signal housings to the fender stays. I don't need the entire signal body, just the long angled stud that runs through it with the rubber joint and the short stud to the stay. But if the price is right for the whole assembly that will do to. Found why mine started wiggling so bad. The rubbers joints are breaking up. Let me know, Thanks, Mike
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I couldn't find the thread where somebody was looking for the turn signal flasher. -
Well I told the old gal out for a 150 loop yesterday and two things happened... One I lost the speedo, the cable came disconnected, I'm assuming I have to remove fairing to get it back on. Second my left turn signal began to flash faster than the right, still working properly just faster than the right. Any help from any body would be appreciated. The turn signal is s little weird. Bags 84 VR 120k ride and fix it again -
Passing Light hollow bolt
iquester posted a topic in Royal Star and Royal Star Tour Deluxe Tech Talk
Yep. First drop of my 97 Royal Star. Cager pulled out in front of me at a 4-way stop just as I started. I stopped (thank God) in time but dumped the Bike over as I avoided her. No real damage except to my pride and the right side passing lamp and turn signal. Have the replacement lamp and signal located but I'll be @#$% if I can find anyone who sells the (10mm I think) hollow bolt that connects the passing lamp to the turn signal mount. Anyone have any ideas? Help! Michael Gardner 97 Royal Star -
To any GM Tech's, I have noticed occasionally when I activate either turn signal, nothing happens. No green indicators or front or back outside lights. The 1st time it happened, I thought fuse! not knowing if the 4-way flashers are on the same fuse, I pushed the 4-way button, they worked. When I turned them off I noticed that the left turn signal was now working properly. Yes the lever was still pulled down to activate the left signal. When I moved the lever up to activate the right signal it too was working, again. Tonight it happened again. Again I activated the 4-ways and the problem was again corrected. Has anyone seen this happen? Is it common? This is a 2004 Impala 4-door sedan, with the 3400EFI engine. We have only had it a little less than a year. It has 178,000 miles on it.
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Hi folks, have a (rare) problem on my Wing. The self cancel continues to self cancel even though it has already canceled successfully the first time. All signals are working fine and the blinkers cancel at rates I'm happy with but the continual clicking at the switch is a distraction as it attempts to continually turn off an already canceled signal. Any wisdom on this? Thanks! -JK
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Left rear turn signal quit working. Took it apart to find out it was full of rust. Used WD40 to clean the contact areas and got a new bulb and it still did not work. The rust may have done too much damage and I may need to replace the assembly or at least repair it. Has anyone got any advice or experience removing the turn signal assembly? Thanks in advance.
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The superbrightleds.com light that I ordered to mount between the helmet locks turned out to be too long and a little too wide, so not to let it go to waste, I found a spot on the rear of my trailer This one is, I think different from the Signal Dynamics one in that it not only is a tail light/brake light, it is also turn signal capable. Sooooooo....
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Since the bike came with driving lights when I first bought it in 03 and I have never installed one on a stock RSV I have a signal light question for you. After assembling my inner fairing and hooking up all wires properly im having a grounding problem with the front signal lights. Driving lights work fine but when you put say the left signal on it will flash but the right signal will also flash alternately, but weak, which seems to be a bad ground somewhere. Same if I use the right signal. Rather then going to the trouble of just rewiring the existing signal lights, I was planning on ordering late model, low mileage stock signal lights online, which can be had cheep. My originals did leak when it rained or the bike was washed, which makes me think its fairly corroded in there. What I want to know, since I live in a humid area and im sure some corrosion has gotten in there over the last 12 years is: Are the signals the same as when it was stock and are they re-used when converting from stock to adding the driving light bar? -
I'm installing a set of white, 5 inch long LEDs on the rear, for the purpose of getting dangerously approaching vehicles attention to a momentary switch? I'm not sure how legal this is but I would like the two lights to alternate back and forth at a much faster rate than a normal turn signal. Does anyone know of such a gadget?
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With Halloween just around the corner, I thought that this video was kind of neat. Now just think about this. A member recently spent about $200 for an LED upgrade of his rear lighting - tail light and signal lights. Just imagine what this guy must have spent! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAXMtUCcp7o]Halloween Light Show 2011 - This Is Halloween - YouTube[/ame] Andy
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I want to put some some small 55 watt plattuiem burners on the mirror brackets for my 91 VR. Being that the PTT switch by the left grip is not used for I use blue tooth, I would like to activate the Burners by the PTT switch as a signal. Also I would like to put a regular lighted toggle switch to activate the Burners for longer use. I plan on using a relay. My thoughts are that I can do this, but would like conformation that I would not be creating a electricial problem.
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I purchased a set of the Doss Teardrop spotlights with built in amber parking light / turn signal. The parking light / turn signal is LED. The turn signal works fine, although it flashes a bit fast, but with my stock rear turn signals all is still fine. That said, the parking light does not work when wired to my stock parking light wiring. Does anyone have experience with these? I am sure my stock parking light wiring has power both through my test light and it will light the LED when wired through the LED turn signal feed. Help?
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Hi guys, hoping one of you savvy lads out there can help me out. I have installed some bright LED signal lights on the RSV, and being LED they will naturally blink rather fast.. To slow such lights, we typically install Load Equalizers.. No problem there.. The recommended ones from Custom Dynamics: Genesis Metric Load Equalizer 7.5 Ohm GEN-7.5-30 These are small blocks that have two purple and one black wires coming out of them.. And ideally you install one on each end of the bike for each set.. one of the purples to the GREEN and BROWN signal light wires and the black to ground.. Simple right? ergh I wish. I've temp installed one at the front under the fairing where the wires are very accessible, and the other in the bundle under the license plate.. Brown and green.. Though they will slow down the 4 way flashers.. they have NO effect on the signal lights.. I know I have the right wires because when I pull them apart the signals lights stop flashing... I then took the large bundle under the seat, to the left side, and plugged one of the equalizers into the green and brown wires there.. and now the 4 ways and signal lights flash fast.. I have the SAME load equalizers working on my VSTar, it works.. the SAME one won't work on the RSV.. I have 5 of these, and none of them work on the RSV but they will on the VStar.. Am I doing something wrong here as to what and where I'm plugging these in? I've seen other posts where people have the same same equalizers working on their bikes and mine won't work.. Any ideas, suggestions, advice? Am I plugging these in the wrong wires? Fast flashers don't bother me but you know how it is.. how many times before I growl at someone for them saying "Hey Mister, you know ya got a light out??" Thanks in advance for your assistance.. If you're using something else that works, let me know what it is and WHERE / HOW you plugged it in, please.. Cheers =) Bike is almost ready for the road.. that is when the ice melts.. -
Need Advise: My parts source in Puyallup Wa did not have the Hazard SW nor the 41R Relay. So I'm into the wires. My turn signal and 4 way flashers are not working. I've cleaned all the related connectors and clean and tested the bulbs and sockets. 1) At the hazard sw connector the Bike side. When I turn the key on, I get power to the RED wire & Tan wire. When I use the turn signal for both turns still on the RED and TAN wires has power. Now I put the Hazard wire plug into the Bike end of the Hazard plug. 2) On the Hazard SW side of the plug the RED & TAN wires still has power. Inaddition the TAN/YELLOW wire now has power. Same when the Hazard SW is eithor ON or OFF. Nothing changes when I use the turn signals. 3) If I put the Hazard SW right in the middle of the OFF & ON, the TAN/YELLOW wire no longer has power. Just wondering what it would do. My knowledge of wireing is pretty basic. From this point I do not know what else to test for power. Any Suggestion. -
Has anyone tried the Custom Dynamics cluster in rear signal housing? Has turn/brake/running light in one cluster so your turn signal acts as running light/brake/turn signal. http://www.customdynamics.com/motorc...c_clusters.htm
