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Showing results for tags 'shims'.
Found 23 results
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I want to shim the carb neeldes on my 2006 venture. Question is, when you add a shim to the needle, does it go under the c-clip on top of the teflon ring or do you slide it up the needle under the teflon piece? Thanks,
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I am checking the valves on my 96 Royal Star and have 5 shims that need to be changed. There are 2 local dealers who will swap shims but I need the tool for depressing the valves. Does anyone in Canada have one that is available for loan if I pay the shipping? I read in a previous post that Mother from Toronto had a kit that could be circulated but I have not been able to reach him. I live in Oshawa, Ontario. Thanks Doug
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Need to reach out and ask...bike is apart and I can't find these shims, rather I should say the dealer can't...I am in need of (1) Shim 2.70/25mm and (6) Shim 2.65/25mm...If anyone can help or point me in the right direction I would appreciate it...thx
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I've seen that there are several valve shim kits floating around, like RandyR sent his kit to Bill, all I was wondering if someone had two 270s and one 285 shims, I have a bunch of 275s and 280s to swap, or are the numbers I need the ones that every else needs/used and are thus hard to get? I haven't tried a dealer yet to see if they do swaps. I don't need the shim tool either. I'm located in Milwaukee, I'm hoping to find some soon as I want to have my engine buttoned up & back in the frame over Memorial Day weekend. -Andrew
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Where can one find a shim set for a 85 royale, I have the tool and a couple of shims the previous owner gave me but would like the kit. Thanks
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I've got an 83 venture for couple of years now. I cannot seem to get it running correctly, poor mileage ( 28 MPG) and back firing ( poping back through the carbs) slightly after making a corner then accelerating. After a pop or two it picks up and takes off. This is with both the original TCI and the new one I purchased last year. The bike normally runs better before it warms up. I readjusted the valves last year too. I thought it was running rich so, had the carbs off last week to reset the floats and install smaller shims in the sliders. Still run bad maybe a little worse. Put the original shims back in. Now I have a float stuck and gas coming out the overflow line. So I get to pull the carbs again, oh joy. Mainly, I also noticed that the #4 carb slider is not moving. Last week I pulled and cleaned the idle mixture needle valve and the two ports ( top and bottom sides of the diaphragm) into the throat. I set the idle mixture screws to 2 turns out. This week I reinstalled the original shims in the sliders I have reset the idle mixture screws in to 1 ½ turns out. Once I get up to about 4000 RPM it seems to smooth out. When I syn’cd the carbs I get about 9” vacuum on all cylinders at 1000 rpm. Is there some other internal thing I may be missing that would stop the slider from working correctly in just one cylinder? I pulled that slider again and the diaphragm ( no holes in it also about one year old ) is seated correctly and I have already disconnected the YICS some time back and plugged the lines. I also have not found and intake leaks. -
Anybody got a idea what a shim kit with three shims of each size would be worth??
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Valve shims. I am about to undertake my first valve adjustment and I need to know if I need to buy a complete valve shim kit or individual shims. If individual, what thickness and how many? I know it's hard to tell without checking the old ones but what is the most common sizes? If I'm not mistaken it's possible I could need 16 new shims, not likely but possible. Where is the best place to get them? I need this info ASAP so I can get the shims on the way. Thanks for any help...
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...are the shims the same between the first and second generation engines? I need a 265 shim for a first gen, if anyone has one in country.
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Yamaha and the after market 25mm valve shims by K&L and others seem to only be available in 0.05mm incremental thicknesses. It is possible to order Triumph 25mm valve shims in 0.025mm increments. I ordered a couple 2.625mm and 2.675mm shims from BikeBandit, and the order has shipped, so they do have them available. The Triumphs that use 25mm shims are the current Thunderbird and current Bonneville variants, as well as the older 900/1200cc Hinckley engines (like my 2001 Thunderbird). It did take Bikebandit 3 weeks to ship the order, so be cautious doing this if you have an engine torn down and waiting. And they are slightly more expensive than the K&L shims MiCarl has for sale.
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Has anyone machined valve shims (or had machined) to a new (thinner) thickness? How about has anyone used shims that have been machined? Any thoughts on the matter? I know that at least a couple of Triumph riders have had their 25mm valve shims machined which are the same shims used by our V4 Yamaha engines. I see one valve & heads tool maker makes tools specifically for doing this ($500 tools). What I'm thinking about is possibly buying some used automotive 25mm shims at a good price if machining them to usable sizes is possible. This would also allow me to fabricate shims of sizes that aren't normally commercially available. (they are normally only available in .05mm increments). Only one side of the shims would be machined and that side should be placed down in the bucket, allowing the cam to ride on a origonal side/surface. Last thought. How much would/should a machine shop charge for this service?
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Before installing the needle shim mod my mileage was somewhere right around 32 mpg. That mileage was determined by filling my tank nearly to the brim, riding at 70 - 75 mph and until my fuel warning light came on; filled up to the brim again, and did it all again; four times. So, I've had these shaved down vinyl shims, purchased here on this site, for some time and decided just tonight to install them. It's done! Heck I am not even sure how much difference there is between the new shims and the stock one. I know stock is .112 in. At idle, of course there would be no difference. Initially it does not seem to rev as quickly as it did before the mod; seems to be too lean now, stutters and bawgs some. Inserting three fingers in the air intate improves its ability to rev. Anyway, I will take it out on the road and run a few tanks through it and report back how this mod affects its mileage and performance. Hope this was worth the time involved working in a garage at 105 degrees. Oh, all the evaluating will be minus the plastic just in case I have to go back to stock.
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Is there a valve shim it floating around and needs some new shims? Seems my local dealer has decided that he's losing sales by swapping shims for free. Will be happy to pay shipping. (Both ways). tks chuck
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with the help of the fantastic write-up by v7goose, everything went great and nary a leak! Did find I was able to remove the rear valve cover by sliding it back, after removing the side and middle battery covers. Used dingy's xcel sheets, and was able to reuse a few shims because of it. Also transferred all hand data to new sheet and saved as new file, so I have a record of what shims are in now. Buddyrich came through big-time, lending me the shim kit/tool. Put all my 272's and other odd ones in kit, but wanted to replenish the ever popular 270's. Went to http://www.albaaction.com , and talked to Paul there. They're no longer doing a 'shim swap', but asked him about Sudco since the Yammi's were so expensive. He called back and is now set up with Sudco, so I ordered some at $6.75ea. Will add them to the kit before I send it back. Thanks again to these members and this great site!! Between the valve adj and sync'ing the carbs, she's a new (scarry fast) ride, and good for another 50K miles.
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I've improved gas mileage now on about 12 bikes. This works especially if you are under 40 mpg. I'm consistantly getting mid to high 40's on all my 1100-1200's. Easy 1-2 Hour job 1. Remove the carb cap, 4 screws. 2. Remove the spring. 3. Remove carb slide and diaphram, it's black with a needle hanging out the back. 4. Remove the jet needle, there's a large screw inside the middle of the carb slide holding it in. 5. There is a white spacer under a circle clip. Remove it. 6. Replace the white spacer with any small washers about 1/2 the thickness of the white spacer under the circle clip. 7. Ignore the fact that the white spacer has a small tit on one side. 8. You may want to add extra washers on top of the circle clip. (I didn't on my Venture and a friends) 9. Put it all back together in the same order it came apart. New washers, jet needle with circle clip tight (check it), 1 or more washers on top of circle clip, small spring, plastic screw, in that order. 10. Carefully reinstall slide and diaphram. Notice diaphram has a tap. 10. Do only one carb at a time. (Can use others as reference) 11. Go for a ride checking gas mileage and performance. My friends 87 Std. went from 37 to 45 mpg. 12. Clean and check spark plugs before and after. Correct color is gray, tan or clean depending on type of gas used. Slightly white electrodes is Ok if the plug base near threads is darker. white base and tip is too lean; black is too rich. 13. SO: Add washers under circle clip to richen, remove washers to lean. 14. My bike is faster now lean (hotter combustion) 15. I set pilot jet screws to 1 3/4 turns out 16. All 4 Ventures were way out of synch before I did them. Much smoother now. Questions? Send me a PM or email: chuckfrench48@gmail.com (mention VR)
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Last summer I bought a Shim kit with about 32 shims and the special tool needed to change shims. I'll be done with it this week. Anybody wanting to use it can, if they will pay shipping to and from my place. If you have to buy shims please add your old ones to the kit so we can all benefit from its use. Just PM me with your address and when you would want it and we can go from there.
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Getting the bikes ready for the ride to Daytona. We replaced Redbeards 99 RSV front pads. When we took off the old pads, both copper/brass shims were mising from both sides? Did this shim come on a 99? I know I have them on my 2001. What purpose do the shims serve? We simply replaced the pads, leaving out the shim, but what effect does this have on the brakes?
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I feel like a dummy Can some one help me I am having a hard time trying to work out what shims do I buy to give me the clearance of (I want to keep them on the tite side) to save the valvs I have cam were Inlet .11 to.15 Exhorts .16 to .2 Gap ..... 0.08.. ... 0.09..... 0.19....... 0.18 Shims....2.278... 2.282.... 2.275 .....2.278 Thanks
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Well I done my first valve check it took me 2 days but I also took my time. I was surprised of some of the inlet gaps spaces between the cams and the shims .08mm and .09mm the manual say .11mm to .15mm. I checked them 3 times, same spacing each time so I did not change any shims. I have kept a record of what is there at the moment the bike is running fine. There was wear on the each sides of the cam lobes where they hit, at the contact point and the realise point they look like they are scraping on the shims edges. Last month I perched a reusable stainless steel oil filter and so on the first inception I notices stuck to the magnet some metal bust partials I was a bit concern at the time but now I know that the wear dust is from the cam lobes. This is something that I will be keeping my eye on. What is your opinion about the inlet shims gap as .08mm, .09mm and the .10mm they are all between .08mm and .11mm the exhaust are between .16mm and.19mm in spec the manual says. 16mm to .20mm I am a bit concerned about the inlet gap. Thanks PIPER -
Well I am checking my valves and have found some to be really tight.Looks like I will need to do some shimming.Does any one know where I may find the tool and shims .
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Everyone knows that the brakes on a Venture and Road Star sound like hell after a while.. noisy, metal on metal noise and no matter what you do, the dealer tells you it's normal and you learn to live with it.. Mine was making that noise and it really bothered me to the point that I would not use the front brakes when pulling into a crowder parking lot.. I took someone's advice and attempted to use some squeal remover compound behind the brake shim but ran into a problem where one of the 4 retainers looked damaged.. (there are 2 per caliper on which the brake pad shoulders slide back and forth across, sorry can't remember the proper nomenclature).. However, the part looked like it was making contact with the disk.. When I put everything back together again, the sound was even worse but you could actually see how it was cutting into the disk now. So I ordered new ones.. at $20 each.. sheeesh!! hopefully gold plated but no.. Anyway, long story short, new pads, new shims, and new clips and the front brakes are quieter than a squished bug on your windshield. Most likely a combo of new shims and pads.. However, if your brakes are making more than the normal amount of noise, give these parts a look-see.. you never know.. Cheers
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Hey All, I hope the Holidays went great for all of you. I have pretty much spent almost all of my free time working on my project bike and so far thanks fo all of the great info form you all been able to replace front fork seals, rebuild master cylinders, brake calipers, and completely tear down and clean my carbs. I even build a handy home made sync tool and had began syncing the carbs, but that is where I have ran into another problem. They will not sync, 1 & 2 where OK, but 3 & 4 just will not make it. I ran a compression test and the are reading low (89 & 91). The bike is a 85 with 70,000 miles. So i figure it is time to shim them. So here is the question, I can buy a shim tool and shims and shims, or I can request to borrow the the "traveling shim kit" and add to it and send it back when I am done if it is still around? Guess that was a long winded way of asking can I please, please, please get use of it if it is still up to use. ... Thanks all
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As I noted in an earlier post, I have had a rattle in the engine when it is tilted over on the side stand. I have come to the conclusion that is gear related because if I tilt the bike over and then put it in gear, the rattle stops. Therefore I did a tear down on my 86 1300 engine and I think I will use the entire gearset out of it. I would just rebuild the engine, but there are some pretty deep pitting in the cylinder bores on a couple of cylinders, so I guess I will stay with my 1200 engine. A concern I have switching out the gearsets is there are shims on the side of the bearing that is at the 90 degree set of gears that go out the rear of the engine. Actually there are shims near where the u joint is and also shims on the inside of the bearing where the little gear cover is. I know that these shims are what set the engagement at that 90 degree angle. I have not compared the shims from my 1200 engine because I have not got it out yet. I guess I could put it together and see how much free play that I have. I am wondering if this has anything to do with the thrust washer being worn out again, but I have yet to have any skipping during acceleration or pulling hard in 2nd gear since I did the gear undercut about 60,000 miles ago. I have had it skip a couple of times during high rpm 2nd gear deceleration. This was also with pulling a 450 pound camper up and down mountains. For those of you that are not aware, I did not replace the thrust washer with the newer, harder and thicker replacement because I did not know the new one had been upgraded. This was about eight years ago or more. I just flipped it over. It has so far given me 50% more miles than the original set up did. So, is there anyone out there that has done an entire gear change out and had gear mesh concerns? Good or bad, I would like to hear from you. I need to get this all done soon because I want to do it before I go to Vogal and that is coming up fast. Muffinman, I think you are right in your earlier comments. Is there anything in particular that I need to look for? RandyA
