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Showing results for tags 'shaft'.
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Just bought a 2005 Tour Deluxe. Notice the distinct whine/whistle at lower speeds and during acceleration. Seems to go away if I pull in the clutch or let off the throttle, not so noticable on the freeway. This appears to be a common phenomenon and I have seen it attributed to Clutch, transmission, and/or shaft. Looking for help here as to what exactly this is and what I need to do to have this fixed or reduced (if possible) and if I cant do it myself, how much it should cost and who can fix it. Thanks for ANY help. Paul -
I got the posts and write-ups here on the site about greasing the splines and dampers under the circlip on the rear wheel. I have it all torn down here while the hurricane is overhead. I got Honda moly 60 lube. While in here lubing it, should I go ahead and pull the driveshaft so I can moly the driveshaft and u-joint? My '87 has 87,000 miles on it and I bet the shaft has never been serviced... Thanks to all! -
Does anyone know how to deal with the gear shaft when removing the stator cover from a 1983 yamaha venture. How do you remove the gear shaft in the bottom right and corner to take the stator cover off? Pulling hard doesn't seem to be the option because I am going to to damage the rubber boot from the shifter linkage.
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So I read the instruction on replacing the Shift Shaft Seal in the library; I also read the post on it in the forum from last April. In the Library it talks about major work, in the post it talks about pulling the seal with a hook and driving in the new one with a block of wood (or other tools would work as well) without removing the shaft. Anyone got experience or advice to offer?
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Rear tire went flat the other day so I put the jack underneath and Proceeded to pull the rear tire and wheel from the bike which I have done many times before as I have owned 5 different Ventures from 1963 to the current 1999. Took the 4 nuts that hold the rear drive shaft and removed it. Replaced the rear tire and reinstalled the drive shaft the same way I have always done it. Put everything back together and now the trans is locked in neutral can not shift to any other gear. Does anybody any idea what I might have done wrong and how to fix it. Any ideas would be great Thanks
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Has this every happened to anyone before? This one has me a bit perplexed. My 85VR, the output shaft to which the drive axle yoke bolts on to the engine (left side of middle gearbox just behind rubber boot) retaining bolt snapped clean off laying in boot. The only indication I had, that sent me looking was a recent oil leak on the left side. It most likely happened somewhere during my recent 4000km trip, probably on the way back. Can't remember anything taking place except I came back loaded up a bit heavier than going down. Looks like a winter job and might as well pick up the second gear pieces as well although she is not currently due. I wonder if it is any issue driving it for a bit as long as the oil leak does not worsen? I guess I made it for the last 1000 miles since I noticed the leak. At the moment it can't go anywhere but it can work on the output shaft as it is not under torque. Thought I would share that little gem with you all, who knows I could be the first! Lucky me! P.S. I did install the engine about 15,000 miles ago as a replacement and it could have been damaged by someone previously, but it is strange that it would last so long and then break. There was no partial cracks that showed rust, just a clean fresh break.
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I'm hearing a clicking sound from the rear end when I slow for a traffic light or stop sign. Checked the oil and it's full. Should I pull the drive shaft and check it? She's a 2006 with 22,000 miles.
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Any one know if the handlebar riser on a 2nd gen is a one piece or two piece item? I do not see any appearance of it being a stud threaded into the upper body, if it is it has to be countersunk I need to either turn down the stud on the riser or drill out the hole on the 1st gen triple trees I am using on the Hybrid project in order to get the 2nd gen bars on the 1st gen triple tree. Only about 0.030" difference, but it is a non-standard hole size in the 2nd gen triple tree, 0.550". There is enough shaft size that it could be turned down to fit and not get into the threads on shaft. A 9/16 (0.562) drill will work to open up triple tree if I put some shim stock I have around riser shaft. Gary
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This morning I was in the middle of replacing my clutch bearing on my 86 engine in my 83 Venture. I took the entire clutch basket out, which is a very good thing. On the very back of the clutch basket there is a gear, it drives a plastic gear on a keyed shaft going through the case. a screw had broken that holds the retaining piece for the shaft, so it was floating. On the other side of the case, where there is a gear on the other end of the shaft, that gear meshes with a plastic gear that drives the oil pump. that plastic gear was stripped. So my engines been running without oil supply probably for 150 miles this week. crap, crap, crap. I need an engine, a different bike, a new bike, ...no money. crap, crap, crap. Doug
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The new RSTD, ( well new 3 months ago ) just turned 5900 miles. I put the narrow E3 on the front yesterday, and took out for test ride. Yes!! it is better handling, then the OEM Bridgestone. Today, I installed the new Rear E3. and greesed the drive shaft, and rear spline. And yes, it does feel better with the E3 on the rear. So my point here is to confirm all the past comments I have read about changeing the OEM tires on the 2nd Gen. Handles better, and feels more like a 1st Gen Also, the Rear Bridgestone, would have been bald at about 7,000 miles, But decided to remove it today. And, Yes, there was hardley any Factory installed Greese, on the rear Drive spline, or on the drive shaft splines !!! If you have never pulled your rear drive unit, or drive shaft, be sure to do this job, and get you hands Greessy !!!
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Today I was working on the bike and thought back to my first shaft manipulation. I was much younger then and it took me about an hour to manipulate my first shaft encounter. WOW was I pooped!!! Well today im a bit older but wiser and as I was manipulating my shaft it was all over in 45 seconds!! I was aiming blind into the dark abyss and before you know it, I was done!! Just think, one day I may not be able to manipulate my shaft ever again!! Well, at least its coated pretty good with Honda Moly 60 now. Should last a long time. Wait, what were you all thinking???? I was greasing my driveshaft and installing the Vmax rear. What the ............Some of yous are really sick...... Also removed the last of the scorched rear wheel dampeners that Chrome Pros left in the wheel when they chromed it. Took much manipulation (again?) with a SawZall and a metal cutting blade along with a blind hole puller to remove them. Cleaned out the bores with a sanding drum and installed the new dampeners. Tomorrow AM ill install the new bearings in the wheel and just maybe ill have it buttoned up. Hmmm, still have to break the Avon off the old wheel and mount it on the new wheel. Yea, learned how to do that by hand as well. :smile5::smile5:
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I have the final drive off right now, how do you remove the shaft from the drive unit ? I removed the snap ring but it is still in there. What's the secret to getting it off, the manual is no help. /
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I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were broke and the halves of the cage have significant grinding wear. Thankfully there was no damage to the input shaft and the local dealer was able to get the bearing and sleeve pressed off the shaft. I'll have it back next week with new bearings and hopefully be done with this. Just thought I would share my story and findings.
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I have a 2006 RSV. Yesterday, when I went to downshift for the toll booth, I found I had no shifter. It was laying on the foot board. I stopped and slipped it back on to its pivot shaft and got home fine. My question is... What holds it on the shaft? The shaft has a groove machined in it all the around about half way on its length. But I see nothing on the shift lever that indicates how it is held on???? Thank you in advance CG
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Hi. I owned a Venture XVZ12 1983 and the odometer is not working. I put it apart and find out the gears are worn out on the primary shaft. As I don’t think it is repairable, is anybody who has a spare working speedometer unit wants to sell? The shaft I refer to is the one left of the pen on the picture. Thanks.
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Well, I was doing some regular maintenance on QuickSilver the other day, just getting ready for the Ohio Carnival next week, and while I had the rear wheel off to change the tire I figured it was about time to finally check the drive shaft for lube. I know some folks here think this needs to be done every two weeks or so , but not me! I haven't pulled the drive shaft even once in 80,000 miles, and from what I saw, there really wasn't much need to do it now. There was not a ton of grease in there, but enough. It was clear that Yamaha used a moly grease when they put it together, and there were no visible signs of abnormal wear. So I just added a touch more 5% moly and put it all back together for another 80,000 miles. It really wasn't too hard to get the drive shaft back in the U-joint with the help of another member who just happened to be around while I was working (THANX Formerfuzz!). The trick was to simply put the transmission in gear and have someone else turn the final drive gears while I held the drive unit and tried to generally center the shaft on the U-joint. Here's a tip for when you get ready to do this - first, pull the drive hub/fingers from the rear wheel (which you should be doing to lube the drive fingers anyway), and use that hub for your helper to turn the gears/drive shaft while you hold the drive unit and try to insert the drive shaft into the u-joint. After you get the drive housing back in place, you can finish greasing the drive fingers and putting the hub back in the wheel. Since I hadn't done this before and I had already greased up the drive hub, I just wrapped a rag around a 2x4 and jammed it into the drive splines to turn the gears. Goose -
So I'm trying to re-mount my R/R that fell of the other day. (I would copy the link to my previous post and pics but I haven't figured out how to do that yet) The bracket that the exhaust hanger mounts to, as well as the R/R, is slightly bent now and I'm not sure if the forward mount for the R/R is correct. So my question(s) is... Does the front of the R/R mount to bolt that also secures the fuel pump and is the R/R suppose to touch the drive shaft housing at all, cuz mine is. I still need to straighten the exhaust hanger bracket to properly secure the rear portion of the R/R but it seems, based on the pics, that the R/R will still be in contact with the drive shaft housing, towards the front, and I'm assuming that moves as the rear suspension is "activated." Can someone confirm that proper mounting for the R/R on my 86 VR and possibly post a pic for my visual brain?
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Ok, Got the bike up and got the pumpkin off. Splines to the u-joint aren't completely dry, but, not much grease on them. Next question is how much pressure should it take to pull the drive shaft out of the pinion?
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R/R fell off... I think
Dizzle223 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
After taking the long way home from work last night my brakes felt a little funny. While inspecting the rear brake pads, which I noticed are non-existent, I saw what I think is the R/R laying against the drive shaft housing and the frame. After pulling the left side panel and the pass. foot rest mounting bracket I disconnected the two wire bundles and tried to pull the R/R out. It was still partially attached by one bolt to the bracket that holds the rear exhaust hanger but only barely hanging on. It was not attached all to the front but the bolt was still there? When I first bought the bike a few weeks ago I noticed that the left exhaust/muffler was not even with the right side when looking at the bike from the rear. After comptimpating this for several hours I think I've determined the following.... at some point the R/R loosened and the front portion fell down by the drive shaft housing causing it to push against the frame when the rear suspension travels up and down. (note the broke fins and fin marks on the drive shaft) Which in turn pushed against the mounting bracket forcing it outward. (note the chipped paint and rust marks on the bracket) So my question(s) is.... #1. Is this the R/R #2. Will the couple of broken fins on the back be an issue #3. Can I/would you straighten that bracket to even up the mufflers #4 Can someone send or post of pic of the rear of their bike so I can see the alignment of the exhaust #4. What brake pads are recommended for my 86 VR As always, any and all comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated! -
Well, I found my oil leak. It's leaking right at the boot where the drive shaft and u-joint meet. I need to reseal the output shaft. I was looking at the parts diagram for the middle drive gear and I can't seem to find which seals I need. I see the crush washer and spacer, do they consider that the shaft gasket? -
My good friend, Cowboy, has a 2001 Yamaha 1600. He is starting to have some slippage in the clutch. I went on a search on the internet and found the Service Manual for his bike as well as a great write up on changing out the clutch springs, clutch disk and oil pump gear. (On some of the older 1600’s there was a weakness in the oil pump gear and many folks swapped them out when they did the clutch springs.) My friend looked at everything I sent him, including a website to get the parts he would need. He traded emails with the parts manufacturer with some technical questions he had and the direction it took cracked me up so much I just had to share it with you. I have edited out non- pertinent stuff to shorten it and redacted company names to protect the guilty. Here is the email thread. Enjoy: The Cast: Cowboy – My friend Max - President/Product Design AKRefugee - Me COWBOY: Hi Max, I sent a email yesterday about replacing the oil pump gear at the same time. Did you ask your fiend what he recommends? Hollerback Yah'll, Cowboy MAX: This is all I could get: “Some earlier years had a weak oil pump shaft that could be upgraded.” COWBOY: Max, Thank you very much for your quick response I'm going to do more research about that pump shaft. I've got the feeling that I'm going to replace that while I'm in there to do it right. Meanwhile if someone tells you of a recommended replacement pump shaft, manufacturer and part number, kindly pass it along to me. That would be much appreciated. Meanwhile I will be calling to do business with you within the next 3 weeks. You will be hearing from me. I'm impressed with your timeliness. Till then, Happy Trails, Cowboy MAX: My brother is being a little thick headed…He does that If I get more I will forward it along. Meanwhile YES replace it. COWBOY: FYI, The engine oil pump drive shaft was not part of the transmission recall for 2001 Roadstars. There is superseded part # on this component meaning that Yamaha engineers did improvements to this part. I got this Information from a very reputable service shop manager and parts manager (redacted), (Service is Joe, and Parts is Steve). This is a bonafide Yamaha Retailer. So if anybody calls about all Roadstars up to 2001 (V1600's) and asks about this oil pump shaft it is recommended by many of the Yamaha Roadstar forums. The part costs $68.97 COWBOY: Max, Can you look into this because I need an answer from you or your engineers on this subject that has just come to my attention. Steve at (redacted) said something about clutch "cork" degradation as the clutches wear vs. Kevlar degradation. He said the stock clutches as they wear the cork sludge doesn't hurt the tranny but that the Kevlar degradation or sludge does. What's the skinny on this? Please reply. THIS IS WHERE THE FUN BEGINS MAX: My answer is simple- Stop listening to those nitwits COWBOY: I hear you but I would like a technical answer to this. I know that they're trying to steer me away from your product. I am convinced that yours is a far superior product as far as performance is concerned but the affect on the wearability on the tranny in the long run is a concern to me as a consumer as well. I was a Senior Product Designer for 14 years in the defense industry so I do have a technical background. Please look into this for me. A plausible explanation of why this is not true is all I ask for. Thanks Cowboy MAX: It’s a false negative. It is simply NOT true! o The moon is made of cheese. o “Not its not!” (max) o How do you know you have never been there….! COWBOY: Max, Please respond technically. I respect you, please respect my request. At this point my friend sent it to me saying you won’t believe this you have to read this. COWBOY: AKRefugee. I'm sending you this discourse that I had with the president of (redacted). Can you believe his responses ! Read Below. Unbelievable !!!!! AKRefugee: Wow, that was an "interesting" response. One of those "trust me I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express" moments. I will check my sources and see what they have to say. My gut feeling thought is that the Yammi guy really doesn't know s**t from shinola on the subject so he pulled something out of his a** that he heard someone else say one time. Remember this is the same shop that sent me out the door with rear brake pads that were so worn that they could have flipped in the caliper and killed me so I am a bit leery of their shops folks anyway. As far as I know, oil degradation is what causes sludge and that has nothing to do with the material being lubricated, only the operating temps and outside contaminants, but remember I did not stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night so I might be pulling something out of my butt as well ;-). I have asked my friend to keep me updated on any additional responses and will post them here if he sends me anymore of this conversation. I just hope that the future responses as as funny as these last ones,
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I finally got the air collars off after soaking in WD40 for about 36 hours. The forks slid out OK. I made a tool that allowed me to disassemble my forks using an eight inch bolt with the nut welded on the end, a couple of extensions, a 15/16" socket, and a little tape. I had to get the dimensions for this bolt from two different threads. It seems we have a guy on here that wants to describe bolts by their shaft size For those others that are sometimes lost (like me), the bolt that fits is 5/8" shaft x 15/16" head. Now I am trying to re-assemble the forks and the bottom bolt will not start threading into the damping rod. I worked on it for about an hour. Arghhhhhhh:sign67:
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Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Headlight adjuster knob? I forgot to secure mine on the shaft a few days ago and today I discovered it was gone. Whoops. Come on Dingy, I know you've got one.
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Fallen Gears when I removed the cover.
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
while I was taking the left cover off the engine to get to the burnt stator, the smallest (top left) and middle size gears jumped out too. I have managed to replace them into their designated places but am not sure if they, or their shaft, might have turned a bit before I got them back on. Are these, in any way, timing or otherwise sensitive to their exact rotational position? Looks they might simply be used by the started to drive the main shaft... but not sure. I've done timing on cars with gears, chains, cogged belts, etc and the rotation of the gears is ABSOLUTELY important... is it here? I'm afraid to try starting it in case I've messed up... please help. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow if we need it - too dark now... Thanks
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