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I have a month old 2018 Star Venture TC with a J&M ELITE 801 SERIES HELMET HEADSET. I cannot get anything out of the audio plug let alone use voice. There must be some setting I haven't made correctly. Does anyone know this system well enough to help me through this. Since I'm 76, and so far I've written this off to motorcycle dementia. I can take instructions though. My old V-Star 1100 was nothing like this Venture.
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Hello, thanks for welcoming me to this forum, I have a 2005 Royal Star with custom exhaust installed at the dealer, he also rejetted the carbs, thing is, sinse then It's been getting lousy fuel mileage, less than 200 km's on a tank at 110 km's/hr. I think he went too big with the jets but I don't know what the factory settings are, main, pilot, ect., also thinking of installing a K&N air breather to help out. Any help on this matter would be apreciated. Bikerrrbob
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We are in the process of rebuilding our VR Assistance List. If you can and are willing to offer assistance to a member who is riding through your area, please edit your profile to include that information. Simply click on "Settings" at the upper right of the page and then scroll down to "Edit Profile". Near the bottom you will find a place to select "yes or no" in regards to offering local assistance and then a place to select services that you may be able to offer. Cowpuc just mentioned in another thread another, and maybe easier, way to get to it. Click "forum actions" in the small menu at the top. Select edit profile. Scroll down and you'll see where to select your information.
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I had the pleasure of cleaning the carbs on my 83 last weekend and found that someone had already been into them before, removing the blind plugs to expose the idle mixture screws. The mixture screws were all at different settings. I had one a 2 turns out, another at 2 3/4 turns, another at 3 truns, and the last one at 4 turns out. I'm betting someone has been messing with these in the bikes history and at least a couple of these are no longer at the factory setting. Now for my real question. Given that 2 -2.5 turns is suppose to be the magic number on the idle mixture screws, and the fact that these have already been messed with and I cannot return them to their orignal settings. What are your thoughts moving forward? I'm thinking set them all to 2.25 turns and then try to tune each one individually using max vacuum readings like I do on a car. Any other ideas on how to properly tune each carb?
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Per the attached picture what is your handle bar spacing distance. That is at near the top which is the widest distance between handle bar opening around the nut that keeps the handle bar on. . Is it 11 3/8; or 12 1/8; or 13 1/8 inches. There can be other settings but I think these 3 are the most common. Working on a slight different design that will accomodiate various settings. Thanks.
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Anybody besides me have one of these gadgets? You plug it into your cig. lighter before you disconnect the battery, and it saves all your radio/clock settings. Nice and cheap, too!
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ok guys, a little help here please! I turn my radio on with the remote on left handlebar, start listening to favorite tunes, everything going ok, and then about in 10 mins or so the remote starts jumping from setting to setting by itself. It will go to the bass,treble,fade settings back to aux then sp/headphones etc. Cant figure it out.Is it the remote or the radio? Anyone else have this problem? HELP!!!!!! OH 2002 ROYAL STAR VENTURE.
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I have posted on this in the past, but thought I would update the info with a fresh post since I just revisited the settings on QuickSilver. Factory settings on the mixture screws seem to always be extra lean - somewhere around 2.5 - 3 turns out, if I remember correctly (I always check this and write it down for the carbs I work on, but then I give the notes to the owner and do not keep them myself for reference!). This lean setting is not too surprising with the current state of emission regulations, but I do find it strange that Yamaha's published spec for CO on this engine is MUCH richer than they come set from the factory. I have a tendancy to believe that a manufacturer should actually set up the machine to match their own published specs, but Yamahaha both sets their floats WAY higher than the spec and the mixture leaner than the spec. Although I do have an exhaust gas CO analyzer, I rarely use it because it is tedious and a PIA. I have found that I can get excellent results by simply tuning each carb for max RPM. I have also tried the Colortune, but I find that tool a sad joke. The published CO% for this engine is: #1 & #3 = 2.5-3.5% #2 & #4 = 3.5-4.5% For reference, here are the settings I have found on my RSV - Using the max RPM method, I still end up with settings that are slightly too lean, especially for the front cylinders. Typically this method leaves the screw about 3.5 turns out, and that is what I would recommend as a starting point for someone looking for that info. Using the CO analyzer, I get about 3% with the screws set somewhere between 4 and 5 turns out, and pushing the front cylinders all the way up to 4% CO requires a full SIX turns out! Six turns out seems like a huge amount, but I have used the analyzer on this bike twice (two years apart), and the settings I ended up with are the same today as they were back at the beginning of 2009, so I am getting consistent results. Although the bike has been running perfectly for the past two years at the midpoint CO settings, I think I'll probably reset the front two jugs for the minimum of 3.5%, just so I'll feel better about the screws not being so danged far out! But for the majority of carb setup and tuning for 2nd gens, I think I will continue just setting for max RPM + 1/4 turn on each carb. Even without a tach on every bike, I find it pretty simple to do it by ear. I used to actually leave the screws a tad more IN from max, but in light of the settings required to reach the published CO numbers, I've decided to set them 1/4 turn richer. If you feel the need to adjust your carbs for any reason, here is the process I think will produce good results for just about anyone. First, sync the carbs and make sure the idle RPM is set properly. If you do not have a tach, just realize the idle spec of 1,000 RPM is probably a little faster than the idle sound you prefer. Just leave the sync gauges connected while you do the mixture screws, since you will want to double check the sync setting when you get done. I'd start with each mixture screw about 3.5 out, then the first thing is to start turning it IN to verify you get a drop in RPM (which proves your idle jets and circuit in that carb are actually working) - no point in trying to tune a carb that already has problems with plugged idle jets, right? Now slowly turn the screw out to the point where the RPM no longer increase. Select the final setting by turning the screw back in to just where you first detect any drop in RPM, then back out 1/4 turn. Repeat that with each carb, then verify the sync is good, and you are done. If you have problems getting a good setting on any specific cylinder, I'd start looking for other carb issues there, such as plugged jets, bad o-rings on the mixture screw, diaphragm holes, etc. Goose
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i have noticed that we have several 'IT' types computer guys here on this forum and i would ask for your help. info you probably need: 1) Firefox is browser 2) Windows XP 3) McAfee protection 4) NetGear wireless router (but have my computer connected via Ethernet cable) problem..... several weeks ago when i turned my computer on it tried booting from a disc (don't know how it happened) i resolved that issue. then last week in the morning my computer seemed to work fine but later i could not connect to the internet - i turned my firewall off and could then connect to the internet - so i just restored to default my firewall settings and and have had no issues since then connecting to internet - but since then i started getting pop ups opening a new browser window with urls such as..."googleads.g.doubleclick.net"..... "epoclick.com/?ads=12587652904" the last digits will change each time a new window opens..... and other pop ups. solution (?).... i tried use Adblock filters to stop the windows without success, but not sure if i have written the filters correctly. i just read online that if i look into my NetGear Gateway settings and see my Primary & Secondary DNS settings at something other than all zeros then i have been hijacked - the solution was to reset those gateways to all zeros, which i tried but got an error saying the gateways were were not set correctly. i really hate to use malware software to solve my problem(s) as in the past i felt the malware software was creating its own issues. so....if any of you guys have any suggestions please feel free to post them up .....THANKS
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Pilot Air Screw Factory Settings ?
Cougar posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I can not for the life of me find any place including the factory manual what the Pilot Air Screw Factory Settings are,. I hear so many different story's that there different on each carb. so what were they originally before everybody set them to 2.5 turns out? So does anybody remember or have there note's on each carb number what there settings used to be? Thanks, Jeff -
Someone with a XVZ1300 (naked) over here asked me if I knew the valve settings. Nope, but knew where to come and ask:thumbsup2: So help away guys.......................................
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I have always run my air at 12 lbs for the front and 45 lbs for the rear. I noticed since I got "Ugly" that I was having a lot harder time with low speed handling. Today I was playing with the air settings and rode a while with 9 lb in the front and 35 in the back. Memories of the "Blue Beast" coming back. Handles GREAT. It just never entered my head(too full of knowledge) that the bike would handle the air that much different. It just doesn't take as much air for "Ugly" to sit up as much as the "Blue Beast" did. Too much air was putting me out of my comfront zone along with the leg and I was blaming everything on the leg. Point I'm trying to make is "Play with it once in a while" NO! NO! The air settings!! Adjust them a little different and see how it feels. See how it feels......... Hey Muffin I think I'll be ready for that ride!! Hurry up and get home!!
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Ok, so last night I installed the washers in the carbs to increase the fuel mileage and reduce the gas smell at idle. Before the change the bike ran pretty good. I decided to install (2) #4 washers on each carb in replacement of the original plastic one. The bike fire right up and ran great for a couple of minutes and then it died. Restarted her and she will idle, but as soon as you give it throttle, she would die. I then recalled something about the fuel/air ratio settings so I checked each of the screws. They were all at different settings. One was 6 full turns out, one was 5 1/2, another at 8 and the fourth one was 4 1/2 turns out. I reset them all to 2 1/2 turns out like suggested and now she won't even idle. Where should I go from here?
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I have read the other threads here on Firefox and neither of them seem to fit this problem. I have not used Firefox but I have a friend who uses it and she is now unable to open it. She has some favourites on her Firefox browser that she would like to access. Might there be an easy fix to get it started up again? Like maybe downloading Firefox 3? But, will she lose her favourites in the process? How about changing the security settings on her firewall or maybe just shutting it down temporarily? There seems to be some clued-in folks here on firefox so hopefully one of you has the magic bullet. :backinmyday:Thanks a bunch. Cliff
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How do I adjust the squelch on my CB ? I've fiddled with the different settings but I can't find CB or Squelch Thanks
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It used to be that when I clicked on it, it popped up a new, appropriately sized window. Now it opens in another tab, and is not appropriately sized. I haven't changed any settings that I know of. Can it be restored?
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Folks, I get quiet a few email here from people who are trying to contact another member. For example, you post that you are looking for a part or have a part that somebody might need and a member clicks on your username to send you an email or PM and you have both turned off. Then I get an email asking me to contact that member and etc. and etc. Please check and make sure that there is a means for a member to contact you if necessary. If you don't want to be contacted then that is your right but I think there are some here who are doing it by accident. Just click on User CP in the menu bar above. Then in the left menu, click on "Edit Options" and you'll see settings for email and PMs. Please note, even if you elect to accept email from other members, your email address will not be publicly viewable. I have "safe" email set up so that it is done through the server without your address being shown. Same with PMs, it does not subject you to spam and etc. If you post something and a member tries to respond via PM or email and you have it turned off, there is really not much I can do. If you do indeed intend for it to be turned off, then I assume you don't want me giving it out either and I really don't want to be the messenger between members trying to work out a swap, sale, whatever. Thanks for your help with this.