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Well, I am well into my bike trying to figure out what the heck my deal is (as per thread: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68293) and have it basically narrowed down to the ignition unit or the lean/tilt/angle/bank sensor. The service manual has it labeled on page 8-3 as an "Emargency stop switch" (spelling accurate as per service manual, which made me chuckle). I have also 'located' it on the parts fiche (Part 54 on "Electrical 1" 2001 RSV [not that the year matters): (EMERGENCY STOP SWITC 4BH-82576-01-00 (replaces 4BH-82576-00-00)) Now, my problem is I cannot find the darn thing on my bike. I have checked behind both lower cowlings, under the tank, along the neck and I cannot for the life of me find it! Here is a picture of it: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Venture-Royal-Star-XVZ1300-BANK-ANGLE-SENSOR-/370012459623?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5626761267&vxp=mtr Anyone know where this s.o.b actually is?!?!?!?!?!? Much obliged. :bang head::bang head: Cheers.

Last Updated 11/11/13 I will do my best to keep this post updated with the latest info. For now, this is only information for 83-89 (MKI) This is a continuation of a discussion that started here. The cliff notes...... A company in the Czech Republic, IgniTech, makes replacement ignition boxes and was working on one for 1st gen VR's. I had had several used TCI boxes take a dive and felt the need for a new TCI rather than installing another 20 year old used part, so I decided to pursue the IgniTech solution. After a few e-mails in broken English, I was able to provide them with the additional info they need to complete the development for a 1st gen box and I ordered one up. When ordering your own, tell them you want a TCIP4 for whatever year Yamaha Venture you have. 83-89 boxes and programming are all the same but because of the language barrier I'd be as specific as possible. It would be nice if they implemented a part # system but no such luck so far. Note: The stock 83 TCI is not the same as 84-89. But for the purpose of ordering a IgniTech TCI, they are the same. Their current pricing, including shipping and taxes is 157.14 Euro. At current exchange rates, that's $223.83 You can do the conversion here. This is what was in the shipping box. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2534/3881510658_52c2e48a85.jpg The ignition box, depending on the programing, works on a bunch of different bikes, so the harness is to mate the box to the Venture harness. The bag of pins that match the box side of the harness are to add wires to perform functions not used on the VR or to add in a MAP sensor.....more on that later. The CD contains software that lets you alter the ignition curve and some other parameters. You plug the pigtail on the box into a serial port on your laptop to access those functions. It will run OK on the stock map but leaves something to be desired. It's substantially smaller than the stock TCI http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2493/3883265968_09565e407a.jpg Looking at the connectors, I see that they combine the 4 pick-up coil wires into 2 inputs to their box. (the brown and yellow wires) http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2608/3883367448_c210082490.jpg They had said that they would need to do this to make it work. I believe that's why they needed the order in which the pistons come to TDC from me. I also noticed the the 2 wires for the pressure sensor are not there. This means that in this configuration there is no vacuum advance like the stock TCI http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2455/3883369706_578f1be0e0.jpg It runs fairly decent without the stock pressure sensor but adding a MAP (vacuum) sensor back into the mix really wakes it up. More on that later. I had already moved my TCI to the top of the airbox so installing it was a piece of cake. I used some Scotch brand Dual Lock (part# RF9730) to mount it to the airbox cover. It's Velcro-like stuff, but has interlocking pins that create a more positive grip. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2601/3883268106_256d897483.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/3882477735_b2905d9759.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2523/3882480987_ec4bba4254.jpg It clears the tank cover with no problem and doesn't push it up at all like the stock TCI did. I kinda tucked the serial connector up and out of the way. Edit on 9-30-09 updated info After putting approximately 500 miles on it, fuel mileage was off (verified) and power seemed down (seat of the pants). I found some info on their website that suggested the the pre-programmed advance curve might just be a guess on their part. So using the supplied software, I started adjusting the advance curve. It isn't possible to copy the stock TCI curve since the Ignitech box doesn't use the pressure sensor, so I basically added advance across the board until it started to ping during a 2000rpm, 3rd gear roll on. I even went so far as to stop and let it idle until the fan came on to get it as hot as possible before testing. Then I dialed it back, slowly, until it didn't ping anymore and then a touch more just to be safe. Here is the pre-programmed curve. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2640/3897735550_cf24b7543e_o.jpg This is what I ended up with. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/4506033451_d562c0f614_o.jpg Mileage and power are much improved. I rode an entire season with it tuned like that. But it still lacks some part throttle response compared to stock. At the bottom of the post is a link to this file and instructions on how to load it into your TCIP4. ______________________________________________________________________ If you're willing to invest a little more time and money, you can get an experience as good as or better than stock. Even though the bike ran pretty well with the modified map, timgray mentioned trying to put a vacuum sensor back into the system and this got me to thinking. The IgniTech box is set up for using a Throttle position senor input but not a vacuum sensor, but it seemed like with a little 'creativity' it could be made to work. After input from Tim and others, it was decided to use a GM MAP senor. (MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure, it's basically a vacuum sensor) For reasons that you can read in the thread, I don't think using the stock vacuum sensor is the best option, but I'm still looking into that possibility. After some head scratching and trial and error, I was able to install a MAP sensor and ignition timing map that works pretty darn well. The throttle response is much improved along with MPG. I feel it runs as good or better than the stock TCI. For details about how I arrived at this configuration, you can read through the thread. Here are some additional parts you will need for the MAP sensor installation. 1- General Motors 1 Bar (non-turbo) MAP sensor and connector. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4809338814_03c324d519_t.jpg 1 - Vacuum restrictor - Dorman# 47311, NAPA# CRB 2618, Usually found in the "Help" section at auto parts stores or you can order one here. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4809350006_de61dcbc3f_t.jpg 3 butt connectors to attach your 3 - 1ft. pieces of wire to your MAP sensor connector. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4808737617_a0aa590e79_t.jpg 3 - connector pins from the bag that came with your IgniTech box. Note: at least one member didn't get any additional pins, so if you are planning on running a MAP sensor, you might want to request them from IgniTech or order some additional ones from their site. 3ft. of vacuum hose. 3/16 worked for me but it's a bit tricky since not everything you need to hook up is the same size. 3ft. of gauge wire, 3 - 1ft pieces of different colors would be best. I used a General Motors, old style (larger) MAP sensor. Sensors for newer cars are smaller, but tend to be more expensive. One from any non-turbo car will work. You'll also need the corresponding connector. Here at Rock Auto is a sensor and connector for a 9 Chevy Pickup for less than $50. Edited on 11/11/13 to update purchase links and add VPV and NAPA sensor info The original sensor link above no longer includes the connector. Here at is a link to the connector you will need. Member KISA found this MAP sensor on eBay. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/10813201475_0f68ae7def.jpg It's a Finnish company. They are currently priced at $40 US, including shipping, and come with the connector you need. I'm not having an issue with the GM sensor I have but I ordered a VPV MAP sensor because it looks more compact and easier to mount on a vertical surface then the GM. It took several weeks to get since it's shipped from Finland. Now that I have it, it looks like a quality unit. It has a billet aluminum housing and rubber insulated mounting points. I don't have it on yet, it will probably be a winter project. Here is the ebay link but who knows how long that will be good. You can also order them from www.piilix.fi but it's a bit of a convoluted process. On their homepage it says "Mainly selling low cost overstock batches". And the VPV Racing website, with the help to Google Translate, says "VPV Motor Racing has stopped working", which I believe means they're out of business. So these will probably go away at some point. Your local NAPA dealer can get you the connector under part# EC14 And a MAP sensor under part#'s PS10075, 2-1961, or 3-1961 Or you can go to your local salvage yard or auto parts store. Chevy used the same one on non-turbo vehicles from the early 80's until early 2000's. A 1990 Chevy P.U. with a 350 engine is good vehicle to use when having the parts guy look it up. Thanks to timgray, Here is another source for a MAP sensor. They also have a connector w/o the pigtail that makes it so you don't have to use the butt connectors. It's a little more difficult to do but results in a cleaner look. You need to connect your new hose to the #1 or #2 cyl. sync port. On 84-89's remove the vacuum hose that goes to the stock vacuum sensor and just let it hang out of the way. On my 84 it was on the L.R. cylinder (#2) but it's my understanding that most are on the L.F. (#1). On 83's the stock vac sensor goes to a ported source on the #2 carb. You could remove the hose and cap the fitting on the carb or just leave it connected since the stock sensor won't be used anyway. On my 84 there was a hose connector/fitting a couple inches from the carb. I disconnected the hose there, put in my new restrictor, then added the new hose, routed around the carbs and behind the frame tube and and tucked the MAP sensor in just to the left of the fuel filler. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4810745879_0e346f1357_b.jpg To wire it up, connect pin A on the MAP sensor to pin 7 (ground) on the TCIP4, pin B to pin 6 (sensor voltage) and pin C to pin 17 (5v ref). Edited on 11/11/13 to include VPV Racing sensor pinout and update pinout images easier to understand For the VPV Racing sensor, The Red wire on the sensor (pin 1) goes to pin 17 on the TCI harness, Black (pin 2) to pin 6 and Blue (pin 3) to pin 7. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/10814737246_e5cb6586f3_z.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/10814735346_0e151e2a4a.jpg http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/10815083995_abb0e30369.jpg This is what my finished MAP install looks like. My wires are plenty long but I wasn't sure were I was going to put the sensor when I started. Also, disregard the black wire, it was for testing purposes. I ran the vacuum hose up from the carb, behind the frame tube, to a spot just behind the airbox. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6133/5924665643_8f4f97f009_o.png The sensor tucks in right next to the gas cap splash guard on an angle. I slid the extra wire length between the guard and the airbox. I looked at all kinds of places to mount it and brackets to hold it but this is simple and works great. Once the faux tank cover is on, it can't go anywhere and has been fine for several thousand miles now. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/5924667343_e414b545f3_o.png Note: These files are for 83-89 (MKI) bikes only. Here is a link to the latest non-MAP sensor file. Use at your own risk! Here is a link to the latest file to use with a GM 1 Bar MAP sensor. Use at your own risk! Edit on 7-5-11 to clarify programming info You will need a laptop with a serial port or a USB to serial adaptor. The adaptors can be temperamental but it's worked fine for some. After clicking on one of the above links, click the "Download" button and save the file to your Desktop. To install a new map in your IgniTech TCI you have to connect a computer to the serial port on the TCIP4. The TCIP4 has to be plugged into the bike with the key on too, so a laptop works best. Insert the CD and open the file on the CD called 090715a_tcip4.exe. This is the IgniTech programming software. In the IgniTech software click the "Folder" button. Note: It seems the latest TCIP4's are being shipped with updated programming software, version 80. The file is named 100907a_tcip4A_v80.exe. http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5448184931_e2cd52d823.jpg Then navigate to your Desktop and select the file you downloaded, either "Venture without MAP sensor" or "Venture with MAP sensor". Note: If you're using v80 software, You will get a warning popup. Click OK and continue. Then click Program. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/5448185023_1cc707c2f8.jpg In the lower right of the software you'll get a notification saying "Program device" with a progress bar. When it's done it says something like "Program OK'' in green. I don't remember for sure. I'll try to get a screen shot of that soon. Close the program, turn off the key, disconnect the PC and go for a ride! I now have over 5000mi on my IgniTech TCIP4 without a single hiccup.

Ever since purchasing this 86 VR in April, I have been chasing an acceleration hesitation problem. Only hesitates when engine is at idle and the throttle is cracked open. The motor does not respond and hesitates and may even die. I have been completely through the carbs, including new sliders and diaphragms. No vacuum leaks at alll anymore. Is this a symptom of running too lean or too rich? Everything else is fine, compression is great, plugs are new, well fairly new, new wires, boost sensor is operational, no problems with the vacuum line to the boost sensor. Valve adjustment is right on. What am I missing? I think is still a carburetion issue but can't pin it down. Any thoughts?

Ok, so I saw the thread in the library about the battery bypass. I found what I think is the right wire. It's right behind the battery bow, and is white with a red stripe. Problem is the actual sensor is not there, it's been unplugged from the wire. The plastic connector is on the wire, but the sensor wire is missing. So am I looking at the right wire? And if so, how do I bypass it from there with the sensor wire missing? Thanks for the help guys.

Hello, I work at a repair shop and had a Yamaha Venture pull in, its an '88. The class system keeps throwing an E4 error message. I looked it up and I guess it means there is no voltage coming out of the air sensor. Now, when i turn the key I imagine I should hear the compressors kick on, but I'm getting nothing. Any idea on where I can get the full class system minus the computer itself? Thanks! Zac

I have a few members interested in getting an Ignitech 1st gen TCI. Main thread on this aftermarket TCI is located at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 There was an issue with the prior group of TCI's to be upfront on this. There were a few members that experienced brief ignition cutouts in 3k to 4k range. This seems to have been mostly resolved by using a programing option with the TCI. 90~93 single pickup coil bikes did not report this issue. These TCI's are as close to plug& play as I can get. All that is needed is to unplug 2 cables from stock TCI & plug into adapter cable. Unhook stock vacuum sensor hose from #2 carb & hook in new vacuum tube for new sensor. TCI will work on 1983 thru 1993 Ventures & 1985 thru 2007 VMaxs. I need to know what year bike that the TCI is being used on to get correct adapter & matching program in TCI. TCI cost is $255.00 USD, this includes TCI, adapter wiring harness, new vacuum sensor, instructions & units preprogrammed by me better than what they are from Ignitech. Also includes priority shipping to US address. Paypal payment is $8.00 extra. I would rather not get paid for these as a gift to avoid paypal fees. International shipments will be charged extra cost over US priority fee of $10.50. Shipments will be insured. $5.00 increase over last time to cover insurance. Ignitech warranties TCI for 1 year. I will assist anyone with a return issue. I am only assisting in members acquiring these units. 11/10/12 - Lowered price $5.00 because I can not get the smaller vacuum sensor I was going to get to work. I will use same one as last 40 units, just a little larger physical size. I will refund $5.00 to those that have paid me already. Gary

RSV wiring diagrams show a throttle position sensor. Where is this sensor located. In the throttle hand grip, cable junction box or the carb rack seem like likely places. Gary

Does anybody have an OBD 1 scanner that I can borrow? I'm looking for one that will read all of the outputs from the sensors. I've got a 1993 Olds. Silhouette that goes lean when you apply more than 1/3 throttle. I've checked the fuel pressure, the mass air flow sensor and a bunch of different things but everything seems to be good. I rented a $400 scanner from O'Reilys, but it only reads error codes on OBD 1 and it seems to have a problem doing that correctly. I need to watch all of the sensor outputs and see if I can see what's happening. Thanks, Frank D.

I have enough commitment and 6 payments already in hand to definitely proceed with the Ignitech module group purchase. Original thread with some more details linked below. Please note this thread has reference to a used MAP sensor which is not going to be the case (will include new MAP sensor) & price adjusted to reflect new unit. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62223 I am doing this in conjunction with the VMaxForum.net group. I will order the TCI's Sunday night, so I need commitment by then. You will get following: Pre programmed new, version 80 Ignitech module (warranty by Ignitech) A revised program that is much better than what Ignitech is supplying. Adapter harness for either a 1983-1989 Venture or a 1990-1993 Venture, plug & play & matching program in TCI. A new 1 bar GM MAP sensor and wiring connector properly connected to Ignitech harness. All documentation and original files from Ignitech along with any useful info I have collected on a CD. Marine grade velcro to attach TCI & MAP sensor. Small tube of dielectric grease. I am trying to find some 3/16" vacuum hose, but is rare apparently, at least locally. All TCI's for the 1983-1989 will be tested on my bike. I cannot start the 1990-1993 TCI's due to coil differences, but I can program module. Cost is $248 including USPS Priority shipping to US addresses. I will send anywhere, but shipping will be more. Ignitech also has a series of connectors that are a match for some on the Ventures and if any are wanted I will get them along with TCI. Ignitech main thread (extensive) is linked below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 I don't know if this group buy will be done again, due to the number of units I need to get at a time to make it feasible. Gary

Is the ignition system vacuum sensor on my '88 VR supposed to hold a steady vacuum? I checked all the related hoses for vacuum leaks and found none, but the sensor itself will not hold a steady vacuum as the vacuum bleeds off moderately. Is this a problem, or is this the way it was designed? -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

I have had some members express interest in getting an Ignitech TCI. I did the first one in August 2011 and 13 members participated in it here. I have not had any issues with them reported to me. If any of the guys that got them would like to post their experience with the TCI, it may help others decide if this is for them. I have ran this TCI for 2 years now and is works perfectly. This TCI is only available for the 83-93 1st gen Ventures. The RSV's have some dash indication features in it that this module is not set up to handle. I am planning on ordering TCI's the last week of January. That is to give anyone interested in doing this time to get funds together after the holiday season. Cost is $250 including USPS Priority shipping to US addresses. I will send anywhere, but shipping will be more. Due to Paypal fees of 2.9% there will be an added $7.25 for Paypal payments. Checks or money orders would be fine. Last time I took Paypal payments as 'Personal' transactions, but Paypal is shutting some peoples accounts down for this practice. Payment will be need in advance, same as last time. Attached below is a PDF of install instructions I provided & a couple of pictures of TCI. The MAP sensor will be connected to TCI with one connector on it at the MAP sensor itself. You will get following: Pre programmed new, version 80 Ignitech module (warranty by Ignitech) A revised program that is much better than what Ignitech is supplying. Adapter harness for either a 1983-1989 Venture or a 1990-1993 Venture, plug & play & matching program in TCI. Spare terminals for the TCI end connector. Also furnished are replacement ends for the Venture harness connectors & terminals. These are only needed if your harness end connectors are corroded. A new 1 bar GM MAP sensor and wiring connector properly connected to Ignitech harness. Wires will be 24" long and heat shrink covered. The stock vacuum sensor on the bike is not desirable for use on this TCI due to it being 12v based and it is prone to failure due to its age. All documentation and original files from Ignitech along with any useful info I have collected on a CD. Also on CD will be wiring schematics & service manuals for the 1st gens. Marine grade Velcro to attach TCI & MAP sensor. Alcohol wipes to clean surfaces. Small tube of dielectric grease. 24" of 3/16" vacuum hose to connect to MAP sensor. 15 wire zip ties in 3 different sizes. All TCI's for the 1983-1989 will be tested for operation on my bike. I cannot start the 1990-1993 TCI's due to coil differences, but I can program module. An optional item is a 6' long USB to COM cable to allow the TCI to be hooked up to a laptop that does not have a Com port. This is $15.00 additional. Not needed if you are not interested in tweaking the programming of TCI. Ignitech main thread (extensive) is linked below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...ad.php?t=40414 Previous group buy thread is at link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62620 If interested, post here or PM me. Gary

When cold,everything works fine...stop for gas and the neutral light goes out and nothing at all completely dead....fifteen minutes later all is well...neutral light comes on and away I go....thinking the neutral sensor? ...is it located behindthe cover on left side with looks like 2 wires on plastic....pain to change?

well the fan is wired directly to ground. don't know why. but is there a way to test the system to find out why is there a relay and sensor in system if there is where should i look for them. read a thread that said to jumper sensor to make fan run. just don't know where to find it. trying to fix a bunch of problems so i can ride this parts bike.

Hello, The air suspension isn't working on my 1986 Venture Royale XVZ13T DS/DSC. According to the error message it should be a faulty pressure sensor (Yamaha part no. 31M-85981-00-00) and I bought that sensor already. But here is the point: I cannot find the original sensor on the bike to replace it !!!!!!!! According to Yamaha's very rough scetches it should be located somewhere around the speedometer or levelling computer panel. Can somebody help me out with the exact location of that sensor? Thanks Bernhard

Just read interesting article about oxygen sensors. Did not know about rear access to ambient air, and need to keep the 'normal' gunk off the sensor. Automotive Trivia http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/triviaPlate2.jpg The core of a typical oxygen sensor is a zirconium dioxide (zirconia) ceramic. Oxygen ions flow freely through this ceramic after it is heated to 600 deg. F (316 C). What else is zirconium dioxide used for? A. imitation diamonds B. thermal barrier coatings for diesel engine parts C. foundation for dental crowns D. all of the above Answer below http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/bar.gif The Other End of the Oxygen Sensor http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/RAmech.gif Oxygen sensors thread into the exhaust system where they obviously face extreme heat and harsh exhaust gases. Oxygen sensors fail when the bulb inside the exhaust pipe is exposed to lead, silicone, antifreeze, engine oil and other contaminants. Many people are not aware of the role that the other end of the oxygen sensor plays. Surprisingly, the visible end of the sensor with the wire pigtail is just as important and sensitive to contamination as the end slugging it out in the exhaust pipe. Nearly all oxygen sensors are designed to measure the difference between the oxygen level in the exhaust with the oxygen level in the outside air. The sensor generates a voltage based on the difference in oxygen levels that the engine computer uses to continuously adjust the fuel mixture, etc. The outside air the oxygen sensor needs for its comparison enters the sensor at the end with the wire pigtail. Depending on the sensor design, the air might enter through a dedicated hole or through the wires. http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/images/2212TomStory.jpg The oxygen sensor ambient air inlet is likely to be protected by silicone boots, porous PTFE (Teflon) or some other means. A routine splash of water is not likely to hurt an oxygen sensor, but leaking chemicals (engine oil, power steering fluid, etc.) can clog or enter the oxygen sensor air inlet and damage the sensor. Efforts to “protect” oxygen sensors by spraying them with lubricant, covering them with insulation, etc. can backfire if the sensor’s air inlet is blocked or contaminated. Oxygen sensor installation instructions emphasize that the entire sensor, including the wiring harness, is part of an integrated system. Routing and connecting the wires is as important as carefully threading the sensor into the warm exhaust pipe. I just read installation instructions for a Bosch oxygen sensor that had just two steps covering removing the old sensor and screwing the new sensor into the exhaust port. The instructions had ten steps covering the connection and routing of the oxygen sensor’s four wires. The oxygen sensor bulb buried in the exhaust pipe is on its own, but you can maintain the other end by making sure the wiring harness is never torn, rerouted or covered with goop. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com

I've been troubleshooting a Cruise control on an '06 Venture that I purchased used last October. The cruise has not worked at all for me. I followed the self diagnostic procedure in the service manual. Did the set anf res buttons 6 times, the lights blink correctly, but then only the res light stays on. Checked the brake switches, they're ok. Did the throttle test, but did not hear the vacuum pump come on. Hot wired the vacuum pump and it runs and draws vacuum. Did the cruise relay test and it passed. I'm left with checking the speed sensor (assume if the speedometer works, then the sensor works; may be a mistake), or replacing the cruise module. Has anyone had a similar experience, or got any advice? How much would a replacement cruise module cost? Your thoughts are appreciated. Frustrated in Ohio:confused07:

has anyone tried the green light trigger magnet you stick to bottom of bike? do they work? and would a strong magnet stuck near engine cause any problems with the bikes elec. systems i have completly stock 83. I am curious as i have 1 intersection thats on my way home and when its late hardley no car in site .and i have tried every section of the dam sensor, it just won't pich up a mc. i have even talked to hwy dept's manager of town and even the one at state level, just got the same ole "we'll check on it "

I am checking to see if there would be enough interest from members to make it feasible for me to buy about 10 (or more) of the Ignitech TCIP4 V80 TCI ignition modules. These units would be a 30 minute or less job to install & be riding with. I would get these units from Ignitech, pre-load a Venture program setup with mileage and performance balanced. The adapter harness would include the wiring for the pressure sensor that the TCI uses. The stock Venture boost sensor is not compatible with the Ignitech unit & can't be used. I would supply either a brand new boost sensor or one from a auto recycler, the second option being much more economical & would be fully tested by me. I will be able to supply unit in either 83-89, 4 pickup coils or 90-93, 1 pickup coil versions . Ignitech Site link: http://www.ignitech.cz/english/aindex.htm I can get these units and resell them with a gently used boost sensor, fully tested and ready to go for $225 US plus shipping. If a new boost sensor is wanted the cost would increase by about $50 (subject to change). I would need a partial prepayment in order to finance this. Balance of payment due when ready to ship by me. Turn around time would be about 2 weeks. It would take me about a week to get TCI's and some time to wire & test them. And being upfront about it, this is about $25 less than the unit can be purchased from Ignitech and the cost of a used boost sensor factored in. All that would be needed by user to utilize this unit would be to unplug the 2 cables from the existing TCI & plug them into the adapter harness. Then mount the TCI, which is slightly larger than a pack of smokes & mount the boost sensor. Connect the hose from the #2 intake boot to the boost sensor. Mounting of TCI can be on air box lid or left radio pocket. The TCI can be hooked up to a laptop that either has a com port or one with a USB port & an adapter that will be made available. It will not be necessary to have a laptop hookup if you do not desire to modify the program I would load in it. With the use of a laptop connection, the user can customize settings as desired. The Ignitech thread is located at link below, there is a lot of info in it. I will supply an electronic manual with the TCI. I will also put on the CD any useful info I have collected while using this unit. Each CD will have additional info such as bike wiring schematics and other items not supplied by Ignitech. The Ignitech manual, TCIP4 program and initial module program will also be included. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40414 1st picture shows the TCI, wiring harness, a used pressure sensor and the software CD. Also are extra pins Ignitech supplies if user wants to add other non-utilized features of TCI, such as fuel pump relay control, shift light, inputs for shut off features. 2nd picture shows an boost sensor. 3rd picture shows end view of TCI 4th picture shows adapter harness with boost sensor leads. 5th picture shows Miscellaneous settings screen 6th picture shows Bike settings screen 7th picture shows 2D advance map example, would be different in supplied format. 8th picture shows 3D advance map example, would be different in supplied format. Last picture shows test screen. Gary

I sync'd my carbs and just for grins before I put the pressure sensor line back on the left front cylinder, I grabbed my vaccum pump, connected it to the hose, and tried to pump a vaccum. I've got a leak in this line or the sensor itself. Does anybody know where the sensor is (89 Royale)? The logical place is next to the TCI unit, but that's just a guess and it'd be nice to know where it is before I start taking more apart. Frank D.

I got my engine miss resolved, but now the class system is not working and giving me an E-4 code. Tracked it down to the preasure sensor. Great, how serious can that be ? I mean two screws, one connector, slap a new one on, how simple is that. But NOOOO my sensor is full of oil, great. This can only mean one thing. Oil is leaking from my suspension into my air system I guess I will have to figure out if it coming from the rear or the front. Heres to hoping I can get through the summer with it P/S If anyone has a spare sensor for the class system on an 89, that they are willing to part with let me know.

Some of you have installed a water temp guage, and the question is where did you install the sensor?? Are there two sensors.?? One to power the warning light and another to kick in the fan like on the 1stGen?? And if so, can the warning light sensor be swapped out for a guage sensor??

The #2 carb on the 85 engine has a hose hookup that appears to be about the same location as the 83 port for the boost sensor that runs to an emission system. Since the good spare TCI I have is for an 83, I wonder if that hook up would work correctly. I also wonder if all these emission hoses can be removed and blocked. Randy

I have a 1990 VR that has been sitting for eight years. After putting a new battery in, it started right up, but didn't idle. I drained the gas tank (the fuel in it was amber) and refilled with BP Premium spiked with 4 oz. Sea Foam. I've cleaned the carbs and checked the slides and diaphragms, and adjusted and cleaned til I'm blue in the face. The bike will idle and has decent throttle response until it gets hot. When it gets into mid temperature gauge territory, the idle begins to climb until it is at 4.5K and I can't stand it any more, where upon I shut it down. This scenario happens whether sitting in the garage on the center stand or while riding. Sooner or late the idle will climb to the 3-4.5K range and make stop lights rather embarrassing and shifting very ugly. I've been running Sea Foam through and have adjusted the pilot screws to 2.5-3 turns out (notably, turning the pilot screws in all the way or out all the way has NO effect with idle). I have synchronized the carbs (using mercury sticks) and they are very nearly perfect and never seem to change synchronization. I have tested the pressure sensor (vacuum sensor, boost sensor) and find voltages well within spec (2.18 when at atmosphere, .65 volts at .90kpa on a mityvac vacuum pump). Pulling vacuum on the pressure sensor causes an increase in rpm...sometimes. Idle must be over 1000 rpm for pressure sensor vacuum to effect it, apparently. I removed the pressure sensor and it's harness and connectors and cleaned them. I removed the TCI connectors and cleaned them. Some of the spade connectors were corroded, but not bad. Still, though an increase in vacuum always caused a voltage drop, this voltage drop did not always/usually result in an rpm climb ON A COLD TO WARM engine. I checked for vacuum leaks at all the usual suspects; the pressure sensor vacuum hose and restricter = AOK, the sync plugs = AOK, the carb to head boots = not AOK. Number 3 and 4 seemed to be leaking at the carb bases. I checked for leaks with carb cleaner spray. Regarding the leaks at #3 and #4 carb boots: I removed the clamps and ground off the tabs that seemingly prevent the clamps from tightening too tight (?), and reinstalled the clamps on the boots and re-tightened. Spraying with carb cleaner around the newly tightened boots did not result in idle change, IE, no leaks. Curiously (and significantly ?), pulling the sync plugs off the idling bike, one at a time, has little effect on the idle, EXCEPT for #2. Opening the sync port on that cylinder, slows the idle significantly. I have checked the float bowl fuel level and found all to be at 19mm below the reference line. I have monitored the fuel level on the running bike and it has remained very stable at this level. (I have rigged four fuel level gauging tubes attached to the carbs for testing). I realize that the fuel level is lower than spec, but that also indicates that an overfull fuel chamber is not causing the hot high idle, doesn't it? Or, could it be that the hot engine is running leaner and leaner and perhaps the lean condition is causing the high idle? I changed the spark plugs (NGK DPR8EA-9). The old plugs (NGK DPR8EA-9) looked new, including the rather white porcelain. Perhaps running a bit lean? (However, during the course of testing and fixing, I ran through a tank full of premium and got just 25 mpg. Granted there was a lot of stationary running, testing, full throttle "testing", etc. The mechanical parts of the throttle system are up to snuff: cables free and lubed, idle stop screw allowing for fully slow idle, carb butterflies all equally closed, and though I had a slide hanging initially, all slides/diaphragms are AOK. As the bike sat there idling nicely away at about 1000 rpm, I was beginning to feel like I had fixed this vexing problem of high hot idle, but NO!, soon the rpm began to climb; first quickly to 3000, but then soon was at 4500 and I couldn't take it anymore. About 10-15 minutes has elapsed. I pulled the pressure sensor vacuum line from #2 and immediately the rpm dropped to about 1500 rpm. I reattached the vacuum hose and it zoomed to 4500 again. I shut the bike down and had a beer. I have been chasing this for days and am discouraged. I am seeking some new insight from someone out there. I have reviewed all pertinent threads, especially the one from warthogcrewchief this year, where he had a similar problem, but his solution doesn't seem to fit my problem.

Every thing has been in the shop this week New shock and rear tire on the bike Thank You Warranty !!!!!! Any help with the following would be GREAT.... My 96 GMC Jimmy The dome light will not turn off - Usually there is a delay maybe a minute till it shuts off after closing the door,also the same if you lift on the handle I had notice on a few occasions I look up the dome light is on been driving 10 min or so Open an close the door it goes out .. The first thing I did was remove the switch still stays on No dome over ride as in some later models I came out to a dead Battery twice ,second time I noticed the dome light was on It does not shut off ( pulled the 3 bulbs ) The truck was in the shop They ordered the part ( delay Sensor) We were sent a diagram of were the sensor is located. We had almost all of the dash apart we never did find the delay sensor to replace it Any Ideas ..... Thanks in advance...

When I got the 01 the guy I got it from said the cruse was a little intermittent, and it was. It would hold some now and then some times for five or so minutes, and other times up to 45 or so. Didn't think too much about it cause I was going to Trike it soon. After Triking I rode it foe a few hundred miles before taking it apart again to paint, but at about 300 or so miles the speed -o went nuts, all over the dash, and I thought that the sensor got knocked out of whack underneath. I couldn't do any thing until I got the parts back to run it and check it out. I readjusted the sensor, and now have a steady needle, but the cruse upper two lights flash 4 times, and then off, with no set like before. I know that there are several things to check, but what I am really asking to get started is. Is the sensor a good or bad, go-no go device or can they be intermittent AKA Flaky. I know that until I get a rock solid speed the cruse isn't going to do diddly. Any ideas...