Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'seals'.
-
Howdy gang. I reckon this question's been asked been asked before but I'm severely perplexed. I'm pretty sure in one of my last fork seal replacement abominations I got the under and over washer around the seal backwards. I have a flat one and a beveled one. Which one goes where? Thanks in advance! John -
Had a fork seal leak a year ago. Replaced both sides while I was doing it. Left the forks attached to the bike, dropped the wheel and lower tubes. The seal that was leaking has not leaked since I replaced it. However the seal that didn't leak at the time started leaking almost immediately. I replaced it twice now... last time I got about 3,000 miles on it before it blew. Am I cursed, or is there something else I should be looking at when replacing the seal? I use Yamaha original equipment seals. I cover the inner tube with saran wrap and oil it so I can slide the new seal on. It has progressive springs, installed two years ago. I use a 2 piece seal seating tool store bought, not home made. Inner tube has what looks like a small dent in the area above the seal. I cannot feel the dent, but it's visible. I buffed it with a green scotch brite pad, nothing snagged on the pad. On a side note, the front end had begun bottoming out when I go out of my driveway. It's the kind of curb that is a rounded drop to the pavement, not a regular curb cut. The front forks will not hold air pressure. Used soapy water once to try to find the air leak, with no luck. So I'm going to change the seal again... are there any special Yamaha incantations I should be using, or are regular swear words OK?
-
I have read all the information on first generation water pumps. My 86 has a small amount of coolant that has dripped out the weep hole on the water pump. I assume it will get worse as time goes on. Bike has 84,000 or so on it. It left about a tablespoon of coolant on the floor since I rode it about a month or so ago. What are the chances of a catastrophic failure, that is similar to old automotive water pumps with graphite seals? If I do rebuild it, should I change both the mechanical seal and the oil seal while I have it apart? I think it is the mechanical seal that stops the impeller shaft from leaking. If I rebuild, I plan on new o rings on the elbow and thermostat housing. -
I need help guys and gals. I want to put new caliper seals front and back, are they the same? sorry I am not as mechanical as most of you and want to make sure I order the right items. Any website deals that you know of? SS brake lines as well. Thanks for any help. Ben -
These are the videos I promised on replacing the seals on a Gen 1. I did not document the entire breakdown. I assume we all know how to remove the calipers, antidives, & remove the front tire. This video starts as if you were doing progressives spring upgrade. The write up on here from skydoc was very easy to follow. I did use an impact gun for the 18mm allen bolts under the forks as they were spinning when I tried to remove them by hand. I used 5wt oil & have 8lbs of air in my class with progressive springs. It was recommended I use 7wt, but I could not find it. I have 15wt in it before but that was too harsh. befor the summe I will change the oil again. The best wt for me at 225lbs is either 7wt or 10wt w/o any air in the forks. I will figure that out! REMOVING THE SEALS [ame= ] [/ame] REASSEMBLY [ame= ] [/ame] I've put 50 miles on my bike & the forks seals are holding perfectly! I would be happy to answer any questions if you're planning to do it. -
I'm thinking about the BikeMaster seals. My dad used em in Lady Blue before me and before they started to leak, they did okay. Anyone with experience on em? Dust seals, oem as well? and to top it off... Covers. I love the fact my forks look good uncovered, but a little bit of protection couldn't hurt... If oem, can't someone point the seals out for me in the parts fisch -.-' every time I look at it, my head hurts. -
I'm going to Install Progressives on my 91 VR very soon. I would like to know how much additional work and time is it to replace the fork seals for a so so back yard mechanic. My MKII has only 7200 miles. I bought it from the origional owner last year. It has always been stored in a heated garage. Its never been rained on. Everything about it looks like it just came off the show room floor. He has licensed it every year only rarely rode it. I myself would be lucky if I put maybe 2000 miles on per year on the average over the next 10 years. I recall reading some on replacing fork seals and my recollection tells me that it is quite a job. Right now I'm leaning on not replacing them unless if I can be convinced that the job is fairly easy and 21 year old seals with 7200 miles really need replacing badly. -
On 91VR ?1) Whats the procedure in changing Anitfreeze. ?2) What brand is best suited and especially for the seals.
-
Ok, Getting ready to put a bunch of miles on the Tag-Along in the next few weeks, so time to get rid of the crappy Chinese bearings. They have probably 6000-7000 miles on them. I took the wheels off and removed the old bearings, only to find they look almost perfect. As mentioned in a post a good while back, the seals were still leaking, probably due to the lack of polishing of the sealing surface, on the axle, during manufacturing. This seems to not be a problem as both wheels were still completely full of grease. The Honda Moly was a lot more "liquid" than when I put it in there, but was evidently doing its' job, very well. Oh well, I have new Timken bearings, along with new seals, on order from Motion Industries, here in Jackson, MS. All should be here in the morning. Fore those interested; The bearing part # is 30205M (It is a cup and cone set) $18.15/Set The seal part # is 30 X 52 X 10 A-NBR $ 2.18/Each Gonna pick them up in the morning and go two blocks down and get a couple of pounds of dry ice. :cool10: Oh and go by and pick up a new tube of Honda Moly from BigBoyinMS
-
Hello everyone! Our bike did not pass the safety test because of an exhaust leak... I took it apart, it was leaking BIG at the rear cylinders which I fixed with new seals and a good cleanup. Then it was leaking at the 6 joints around the collector box... I tried the copper sleeves recommended on VR.org but couldn't get it to fit right so I went to our local Yammy dealer and bought the six OEM seals. It all fit so well together, but still leaks at the two joints at the front and the two heading out to the tail pipes. GRRRRRRRR I can't plate it and ride it if it ain't passed safety. How can I seal these joints if a new seal isn't doing it? I've wire brushed the whole collector box and it looks real good. No leaks, no cracks, no black marks, I even painted it silver with high-heat paint so I could see if and where it's leaking... the box is not leaking. But the joints, with new seals is still leaking. HELP, please, please, please.
-
Really good info on the brake systems. Hoping some one can save me some time on where to start. One clue is I had some brakes not as much as I would like. When I store my bike for the winter I would lose my rear brake and linked front brake. I realize some seals must be leaking right? Does my rear master need to be rebuilt and can I get a kit.I did remove the plunger assy and took out the proportioning valve trying to understand how it works. I read a thread and now understand.I do very similar work with oil pressure ,valves ,seals ect.The seals in the valve seem to be worn can I get those seals. I love this bike and would love to stop well and still keep the bike stock if possible. -
I have replaced the fork seals on my 86 venture with Yamaha seals, the right side went together with no problems, the left seal leaked like a fountain. I have replaced it again and there is still a leak however not as bad. just seeping insteading of a steady steam. I can not figure out what I am doing wrong. -
So I have a question for those who have installed new seals in their front forks. Have you ever found non-OEM seals to be too thick after installation ? I installed a set of Pyramid seals that came with the bike and I can not get the lock clip in. They appear to be all the way down. The bushing was tapped all the way down but the thickness of all 3 pieces on both sides appears to be 20/1000's too thick. Gonna have to take it all apart to measure, but just wondering if anybody ever found that to be an issue. Yea...I know some of you told me not to use after market seals... just seemed like an easy way to save $40.00.
-
So I need to do my front fork seals. I thought I lucked out when I found a new set of Pyramid seals and dust covers. Now I have heard to use only OEM seals. But I have also heard that OEM seals are a hit and miss too. So...in the spirit of starting an oil and/or tire type debate.. Should I use these or scrap them and buy different ones.
-
Well, It took some doing but I got the new fork seals installed. The job wasnt too terribly bad thanks to many posts on here but a particular thanks to Freebirds post on Fork Seal Replacement. Couldn't have done it without you especially since this was my first venture (no pun intended) in the great wide world of fork seal replacments! lol. Got everything back together and the Class wouldnt work. Thanks again to Freebirds post on Class E4 error repair, I was able to solder all the broken connections and the class system again works as a charm! YAHOO!!!!! One quick question... When I apply the front brake and push down on the handlebars, I seem to be able to bottom out the forks a bit too easily. I'm wondering if the springs inside the forks wear out and would need to be replaced. The fork oil is new, the air pressure is working but like I said, seems to be able to bottom out too easy. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! Jay -
Finally got the bike and trailer all checked out and ready to pack for tomorrow. I have noticed for a bit that the wheel seals may have been leaking, as there is grease on the inside of both wheels. I pulled the caps this afternoon, just to be sure everything is ok. Well both wheels are still full of grease, but the seals are worn. I think that is because the seal surfaces on the axle was never polished. I can still feel the tool marks where it was turned down. When we get back from Vogel I think I'm gonna make a warranty claim against H/F, for a new axle. Just wondering if any of you with H/F trailers have run into the same thing?
-
I am rebuilding a '92 Venture that needs a bit of work and one of the things I need is new set of dust seals (rubber boots) that sit on the top of the lower front fork tube. I went to the dealer and asked him to order me a set. I almost hit the floor when he told me the item was just over $100. The near heart attack came when he told me that was for just one. The part number is 3JJ-23191-00-00. The old ones on the bike are a small rubber boot that is about 2 inches tall with no clamps or fittings of any kind . However, the microfiche shows a large boot that resembles more the gaiters that were on the early British bikes. This didn't seem to make sense so I checked out the Yamaha web site and found that for 1986-89 there is a different picture and what appears to be the correct dust seal with part number 26H-23144-00-00 at $15.76 a piece. Now I am wondering if the information on the Yamaha site is correct. Did the 90-93 Ventures have a different boot? I do want to get the right part as the local dealer is unforgiving once the part is ordered. Thank you! -
Does anyone know a reliable supplier for Butterfly Shaft Seals for Mikuni BDS34 Carbs? MikesXS.com has the single-lipped version and I guess they might work, motorcyclecarbs.com has both the single and double-lipped at a fairly high price. The problem is that motorcyclecarbs.com is offline at the moment and, in any event, they do ship very slowly and are not highly recommended. Surely someone else in this vast country stocks them? Thanks for your help.
-
duplicate thread posted in error.
-
Yes...I knew better. I have a PROGRESSIVE pump for the front, but I don't have a bicycle pump. So I thought I would just TAP the the air hose on the REAR SHOCK. It went up to 60 lbs...now I am worried about the seals. It did not pop...and it holds the air now (or at least appears to hold air so far)...but is it possible I could have pumped it up that high without blowing the seals? Yeah...I know STUPID. But with our trip starting tomorrow, I kinda want to know what to expect... In fact, what if it is blown...can I still ride until I get back from the trip?
-
I recently bought a pretty good shape '84 VR that was running fairly rough.. The Yamaha dealer got it running pretty darned good. Among other things, they also changed the fork seals due to oil weeping. When I got it home though, there was fork oil all over the place. The dealer said they had put three seals in that fork and had finally hoped it would hold. Obviously not. He said there must be someting in the fork pinching the seal and the fork will need to be replaced. Also said the forks are not available any more. Been looking on EBay, but not sure how trustworthy those forks are. First, does this multi-failure with seals sound right to you guys? Secondly, anyone out there have an appropriate model, good condition fork that they would consider selling? (Bummer that, on top of everything else, the new beakes are probably now needing replaced due to the fork oil...) Thanks in advance for your input all... -
Gotta love Craigslist! To scratch that standard itch, I picked up this 82 GS850G this morning. This one has been lovingly cared for (I think not so much by the guy I bought it from but definitely before. Needs some fork seals and brake pads, but got it for well under NADA for one in this good of shape. I already ditched the plexi-faring. Better pictures once she has had a bath. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/ThomWill/Sasha/Sasha1.jpg http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/ThomWill/Sasha/Sasha2.jpg http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj302/ThomWill/Sasha/Sasha3.jpg
-
I ordered the progressive front fork springs, am I supposed to change the seals at the same time? Changing the seals looks a lot more involved than I'd be able to do. How do you know when they need replaced? Thx! -
Ok, I admit it. Some times I put things off a bit longer than I should. I installed new EBC pads front and rear about 18,000 miles ago. I've had to change out the front ones on both sides a couple of times due to caliper leaks and forks seals leaking so I've never worn a set down on the front. As for the back, I took them out and swapped sides about 8,000 miles ago to keep them wearing even. They looked pretty good back then. So.... I had bought new sets for the front and rear to install this spring and had them on hand. I had blown out another set of fork seals so I repaired that and held off on the new front pads until I was sure the new seals would hold. Needless to say the front pads were a lil slick with the oiled pads and I was depending on the rear brake all the time. Only took a couple of days to check the seals and then installed the new pads. I was going to install the rear pads when I mounted my new rear tire, which did not arrive as I had hoped so I put that off again for another week. Over the weekend I was cleaning the bike and had the bags off and looked at the caliper. I could see a lot of piston showing. Pulled the caliper off and dropped the pads. Yikes. Good thing I had swapped sides the last time. Both side were intact and evenly worn but shall we say, a lil thin. Rotor still looks great and still smooth. Good thing I live in the good ole flatlands. So all the new pads were on the day of the "Cager Club Sandwich" incident. At least that was good timing I guess. So one of the rears compared to a fairly new used pad from the front. Next time I'll be checking more often. Mike -
Hi All I had problems getting my seals changed over. So I read up on it, it may have been here and then made a video on how I did it. If you are interested please have a look here.... PS Excuse the music and acting skills. Send me a line if you have any questions. Cheers Mirek:322:
