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Showing results for tags 'seal'.
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Ok, I pulled the rear a while wheel a while back and cleaned up the hub splines and when I was working on that I notice a tick in the rear bearings. I ordered the bearings, seals and a new o-ring and now I'm into the replacement. A local shop offered to install the bearings for $5.00 per side and I figured fair enough. Save me some time. When I took the wheel in today they took one look at it and said they could not do that type of set up. At least they were honest about it. So here I am looking at my rear wheel. The manual is vauge in the statement to push the spacer aside and drive out the bearing. First, the spacer don't move far enough to the side to get a good bite on the bearing from either side. I'm using a 5/16 brass flat nose punch to do this. I was able to pull out the larger seal and retainer ring on that side but it looks like I need to drive out the larger bearing from the smaller side to remove the smaller seal from that side. Which side do I start from and how is the smaller seal removed? Any suggestions will help. Mike -
So I read the instruction on replacing the Shift Shaft Seal in the library; I also read the post on it in the forum from last April. In the Library it talks about major work, in the post it talks about pulling the seal with a hook and driving in the new one with a block of wood (or other tools would work as well) without removing the shaft. Anyone got experience or advice to offer?
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So I rebuilt my slave cylinder on my 86' tonight. The kit came with a new pushrod seal. I mildly (without destroying) played with trying to get it out and eventually gave up. I'm assuming it gets wrecked taking it off. So how do you remove this seal? Thanks!
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Well it looks like I have found my winter project for my Gen1... a small leak in the right fork seal. Used the "film" method twice but it returns. (I know I shudda replaced them when I installed progressives) I figure while I have it apart, I will disconnect the antidives, replace the front tire, & add a superbrace. How bad is the fork seal replacement on a Gen 1? Also is there a preferred seal to use? I was going OEM dealer but if there is a better one I'm game. Don't want to do this again too soon. -
Boys & Girls IDK if anyone else has posted about this product so I will. My right front seal has been weeping for awhile. (Muffinman can attest to it, he saw it at the meet & greet) I tried using a 35 mm film negative & it worked for a little bit but I still saw an oil line of demarcation. When I met Jeff at the Meet & Eat, he was kind enough to give me a list of all the parts I needed to replace the seals. I was looking up remedies on the web & ran across this. http://sealmate.net/Images/fix_leaking_fork_seals_logo.png http://sealmate.net/seal_mate_instructions.html Basically it's the same principle as the film strip but the thing is not as fragile. It cleans the seal & then you have to reseat it by pumping the forks. (I did 3 sets of 10 pumps each) I used it as instructed cleaning the fork tube & dust cap. I cleaned the seal twice around, then I wiped down the tube. I pumped the front end to reseat the seal. & noticed the oil line. Wiped & cleaned & repeated the front end pumping. I saw a lesser line. By the 3rd time my tubes were dry. It's been 4 days now without any issues. If you plan on doing a few bikes I would pick up a couple of them. I found that they sell on EBAY as well. It's cheaper & free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/140818428402?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 This is the seller RJ Engineering (RJ ENGR) http://myworld.ebay.com/rjengr?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Not a bad fix for $4.70 I will post an update again in a week.
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Well I started my "Winter" project early. I had to do fork seals ASAP as I was leaking all over the place. I lost 1/2 my fork oil in the right for. No wonder it was handling badly. When I disassembled the forks and inspected the seal, I noticed that it had a nick in it the size of a pinhead. I was leaking fork oil just parked in the garage!! Anyway... It was an intimidating tasks but actually the job is really not that bad. It's just a few extra steps over doing progressives. I have to give a shout out AGAIN to Muffinman for all his help. I used a 41mm MotionPro Ringer fork seal driver. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009M4COVI]Motion Pro (08-0489) 41mm Ringer Fork Seal Driver : Amazon.com : Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bv0ErRFtL.@@AMEPARAM@@41bv0ErRFtL[/ame] Worked perfect on the 40mm forks I also made a short video showing the disassembly & reassembly process to hopefully take the fear out of someone considering doing them for the 1st time. My kid is going to do some editing on it so I can upload it. What's left is to put the tire & calipers back on, drop the progressives back in & add fork oil. Hey what else is there to do during a hurricane??
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I have an 85 that needs the seals on the luggage replaced. Asked at the dealer just for fun but they are discontinued. What are people using to seal the luggage? Where can I find it? Also are they still shpping the carb boots from the above link, $60 for 4?? TX
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MKII fork rebuild
viking2seafarer posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hi All, I have got my 1990 XVZ1300 DA MKII front forks apart and I have found the rubber seals on both of the UFO shaped cups at the bottom of the forks have started to pull away. I have attached some photos. I have searched a couple of parts suppliers sites and it appears that these parts are not available any more. Does anyone know where I might find 2 or whether there is some glue I could use to stick the rubber seal back on to the metal cup? Is this seal critical? I have also noted that the anti dives don't seem to move much. Is this normal? I would have thought that the electrical solenoid would have moved the plunger quickly from one side to the other. A couple of other observations that might help those that attempt the rebuild...Pyramid seals are too tall buy OEM or ones that are the correct size and make sure the oil lock has the big diameter to the bottom. Mine was upside down and the narrow end was firmly lodged in the UFO cup rendering the anti dive useless I guess?? -
Pulled the rear wheel to change the tire and considered pulling the gear mounted on the wheel. Got the dust seal off and just about pulled the snap ring....re-read the tech article and realized it was about noisy rear...which mine isn't...so ended up not pulling and greasing it. Anyhow....new E3 mounted and on, pipes on...just finishing my last electrical connection in the fairing and the bike is ready for the weekend....but, See the dust seal still sitting on my tool box How important is it for pavement riding (no gravel)? Can I get by the weekend? a month? Take the damn tire off in this 200 degree garage and put it back on? Thanks for any input
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I posted this in the Watering hole and it was moved to GoldWing section. But it works on ANY bike so I am reposting here. Remember, even if temporary this fix works, is free (with an old film strip) and can save you on a trip and save money as many have found the fix to work long term. Eck said some use an old credit card, but that is too thick IMO, stick with something very thin and flexible like a film strip. Here we go: My GoldWing developed a bad leak in the Right fork right before taking a trip to FL two weeks ago. If I had known of what I am going to tell you now, I could have saved a lot of mess. The only solution for leaky fork seals is a new seal...right? WRONG! There is a guy selling a special tool to clean and reseal those leaky seals, but if you have some old 35mm picture packs around, you can do it for free with a strip of 35mm film negative. Trust me, I did this and it works like a charm. Turns out the reason most seals leak is they get dirty from inside. If you take a strip of film negative (trim the "sprockets" off because they can break off, so the sides are smooth, and round the corners of one end) and after raising up the dust seal, slip the negative under the fork seal, keeping it tight to the fork tube. The film will go in the seal maybe 1/2" or so. Stop at that point and then carefully and slowly just slide the negative around the tube, keeping it mostly vertical with the tube. Do this about 2-3 times, just sliding it around the tube with it under the seal. Remove the film and wipe down the tube, and test it by bouncing. It should stay dry. If you notice any more oil, try it again. But it shouldn't need it. Like I said, my fork was squirting all over my bike while riding and while it was bouncing in a trailer on the way to FL. After getting back I found this solution on an 1800 site, and tried it and I now have about 150 miles on since the "fix" and my forks are bone dry. May not last forever, but the guy that I heard this from said he hasn't replaced a seal in many years. I need to replace the fluid in my fork, but if I had caught it sooner, I wouldn't have to do that. (edit, yes, there still IS oil in my fork to leak, but is isn't so far, over 200 miles and counting) Try it, all you have to loose is one film strip (make it one you don't care about!). __________________ Don Mallinson Washington IL
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What do you recommend to Balance and Seal Tires? I'm looking for 1 product that will do both. Thanks.
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How hard it this seal to replace? Just pull rear left side cover off, dig it out and press one back on?
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Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
I have a 2008 RSV and I am very frustrated with it right now. It has a little over 20,000 miles on it and this is my third set of tires. I have used Metzler 880's twice and now I am using Elite III's. After my tires get a few miles on them I get a front end wobble at low speeds. I talked to the local Yamaha dealer. After the mechanic showed me the cupping I put on new tires, front and back. Both times with the Metzler's the front tires were cupped. Each time I put on a new set it quit for a little while. It has started now with the Elite III's and they probably don't have 2000 miles on them and there is no sign of wear at all. With the Elite III's I used Nitrogen and balanced them with beads. I think the Nitrogen has really helped with the wear and I was hoping the beads would help with the wobbling. So far nothing seems to help. I have read about tightening the front bearing but that doesn't make sense to me if new tires fix the problem for a little while. I really don't know what to do. The other problem is a nagging oil leak coming from the seal around the clutch shaft behind the master cylinder. I have had the seal replaced twice and it still leaks. The shaft feels smooth as it can be, no burrs at all. The second time the seal was replace liquid seal was put around the opening where the seal goes in case there might be a casting problem. But it is still leaking oil!!!!!! It is slower that what it was but I DON'T LIKE LEAKS and I don't think this bike should be leaking oil with this few of miles on it. Has anyone had either of these problems with their bike and what is the cure? I told my dealer that I have 2 more years of warranty left on this bike and it will be back for the next two years if this oil leak isn't fixed. But I am really running out of patience. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Damon Cates
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I have replaced the fork seals on my 86 venture with Yamaha seals, the right side went together with no problems, the left seal leaked like a fountain. I have replaced it again and there is still a leak however not as bad. just seeping insteading of a steady steam. I can not figure out what I am doing wrong. -
Anyone know how to repair Vinyl. I have some cracking and a couple of very small spots where the top layer of the vinyl is gone. It would be nice to seal it so to stop the cracking from getting worst and to seal the tiny spots where the top layer has pealed off.
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Just some little info for you all. I could not find any info on how the proportioning valve is put together and I know someone else (& it was a dealer) worked on the one I have on my parts bike before I got the bike, because the rear brakes would not release after you pump on the rear brake pedal. First I checked the rear caliper by opening the rear bleeder and then the wheel would move just fine . I checked the rear master for a pluged up return little hole but that was clean , I rebuilt the master because I had it out , so then on to the proportioning valve . Well I took it apart and found the following. The person before me put the last seal in under the spring washer which is wrong. It is to go in the end nut and then I also found out that the first seal you install DO NOT INSTALL ON THE PISTON.(which the dealer did ) and I also did the first time. The proportioning valve will not work ,the seal goes to the wrong place and will not release the pressure back to the master. You have to install the first seal by pushing it down the tube all the way to the bottom then push the piston into the seal then install the spring,spring washer and last the nut with the seal placed inside if the nut. Then I put back on my bike Everything works fine. Just to prove that even if you take it apart and put it back the way you took it apart, may be the wrong way and that is what I found out. It would have been nice to have a breakdown of it to save some time. The Yamaha service manual does not have anything on the proportioning valve except a picture for my 1986 Venture Royal. I hope this info might help others that have the same problem. Most of the time this problem is a plugged small return hole in the master but not this time. -
Well my leak was not the shift shaft seal as I still have it, noticed the clutch cylinder is above it and the netural switch. Anyone ever have a leak on the clutch actuator? My manual doesn't list a seal there. It is motor oil and not hyd fluid. Guess I'll be tearing it back apart!
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Hi again everyone. Need some help. Im replacing my rear tyre on my 2nd Gen. 1999 RSV. Made a note of everything except the way that the hub dust seal #8 on enclosed diag fits. Is it the flat side to wheel and indented or slotted face to outside edge. or. Flat side to out side edge and indented or slotted face to the wheel?????? (Cant think of a better word to discribe the two seal faces). The flat side has a rim around the middle but is for all intense and purposes flat. Thanks. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Hi All, I bought my '90 VR a couple of weeks ago. The guy I bought it from only had it for a couple of months and said he was out for a ride when it blew a radiator hose. He thought it needed a new head gasket. Anyhow I bought it not going. (I like making things work). I have tested the compression and got 90,100,110 and 165 psi. Added a bit of oil and all four went to 240psi (pretty high isn't it??) I pulled the motor out and have got the heads off. A fair bit of carbon build up on the pistons, top of cylinders and heads. I noticed that the line to the coolant drain was full of sediment and so was the water jacket around Number 1 cylinder. I guess it has been a long time since anyone has given the old girl a good flush out. I've ordered new rings, gaskets and hoses plus anything else needed and now waiting for them to arrive in Australia. I have had a good look around this site and I'm trying to figure out how the oil got into the coolant system. I suspect that the oil seal near the water pump shaft may have let the oil into the waterpump area. there was no water in the oil sump. I've ordered a new seal and mechanical waterpump seal. The bike is faded blue so I hope it'll go fast when I get her back together. It's got 46K on the clock and was imported to Australia from Canada about 6 years ago. Is there any other areas I should check before I start the rebuild??
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Heya, New to the site and "kinda" new to the Venture... to the point, I have had this bike for about 5 mos now and am about to replace the rt. fork seal for the 3rd (that's right) 3rd time! I have had the fork out and on the bench at the shop twice to look for anything that could be causing this issue. No scratches (beyond normal wear), rock chips, gouges, etc. etc. This fork had been gotten into before I bought it and a little messed up on reassembly, in as much as they put that little aluminum sleeve w/ the collar on the metering tube inside the fork back in upside down. It was jammed on there pretty hard so I got it off and cleaned it up w/ some emery and polished it with a dremmel best I could. Functionality seems pretty good other than this darn seal. There were these two brass colored rings (I would call them bushings for lack of an automotive equivalent) that looked a bit worn but still reassembled nicely snug. That is about all I can think of as far as info/history on this... please tell me someone has encountered this problem or similar, this little repair is getting annoying... I want to ride w/o the worry of this seal just puking all over the brake caliper. Thanks in advance for ANY suggestions! Oh yea... '86 VR / XVZ1300, 87K miles Side note... I read a post that said the oil should only be half way up the sight glass, is this accurate? Another suggested using 15W-40 for my climate here in CO. is that accurate? I'm thinking I have some reading and serious part shopping to do here! LOL -
I'm about ready to start swapping out the fin covers for a set of blacks, and after reading about coolant leaks coming from under the covers I thought I'd go ahead and do a little PM and order new gaskets. After looking at the parts schematic I'm confused. It shows something called a Damper Engine Mount. #37 and #40. And they sure don't look like a seal to me. Are these things rubber, and do they seal anything??
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In the process of installing my high output stator my son-in-law pointed out that the shift linkage seal was seeping. Has anyone ever replaced one of these on the RSV and if so how hard is to replace? My understanding from looking at the service manual is that you have to remove the middle gear cover (again) in order to get to the shift linkage seal. Is this correct? I am not sure if I want the local dealer to do this work or not. He told me one hour. I have this gut feeling he wasn't referring to an RSV but rather to a bike that is more exposed. All comments and or suggestions appreciated. Thank you in advance. Chris -
OK guys, I have a small leak that has developed around where the drive shaft mates with the transmission. Since I recently installed this engine, it has crossed my mind that I damaged a seal. Can anyone offer me any ideas here?
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Mr. Myers came to my rescue by fabbing up a seal driver for 43mm forks. This driver will be passed around to other members who want to work on 2nd gen forks. 1 side drives in the bushing and seal, the other side drives in the dust seal. Ruffy is first on the list. *edited for mor guder picshures.
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