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Hello, I just purchased the Morgan Carbtune Pro and will soon attempt (first) to synchronize the carburetors on my 2006 RSTD which has almost 8,00 miles and is experienced some occasional back fire and pops on deceleration. Before attempting this work I need to clear up some confusion about doing this work. Thanks Subject: Seeking Clarification Reference: Article on Synchronizing the Carburetors. (RS Venture and 2006 – Royal Star Tour Deluxe) In this article (page 5) of the text under the lower picture you write, you’ll want to adjust 1 and 2 on the left side and 3 and 4 on the right side of the bike (again when sitting on the seat). These adjustments are made with a #2 Phillips screwdriver from the right side of the bike. My comment…aren’t the adjustment to carb’s 1 and 2 made from the right side of the bike looking through the V of the engine to the left bank of carburetors. Isn’t the same adjustment to carb’s 3 and 4 made in a similar way from the left side of the bike (not right side) looking through the V of the engine to the right bank of carburetors using the long #2 Phillips screwdriver? In the picture (top – page 7) where the text indicates [Here is the screw for synching both sides together]. It is accessed from the left side, just above the choke knob. This is a hex head screw with a slot for a screwdriver. On my 06 RSTD this screw is located on the right side of the bike or am I confused on the location of these adjustment screws and their physical location. Thanks for your input.
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DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ''What the...??'' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ''DAMMIT'' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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I was so excited! Had gotten my Carbtune Pro, read up on synchronization in the tech forums, (thank you Freebird and Kenneth Branton (Kbran)) Printed out the directions, gotten my camera, and figured a 15 minute project at best! Found the screws that needed adjusting for 1&2. Wait a minute my screwdriver does not reach! Went back to the directions. Yep right there it says... "a long #2 Phillips screwdriver... . OH! you mean a LONG #2 Phillips screwdriver!, DA!! Spent the next hour driving around and finally purchasing a long #2x8 inch Phillips screwdriver! Back to the bike 15 minutes later project done!! See, size really does matter!
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Looks like Venture is not going to happen for Skid-In but took time out to look at 750. Battery up hit button nothing. Crossed over cylinoid (cant Spell) and VROOOOMM instantly. Still no action from button. Where is first place to look??? May get to do one of the rides at Skid-In yet if I have to carry screwdriver in pocket!! Help quick where look first??
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This must not be much of an issue, as I haven't read any previous posts on the subject. For me though synchronizing the carbs has been a little difficult, as I didn't have a screwdriver quite long enough to reach the 1-2 sync screw and would always burn my knuckles. I was delighted to find a long phillips screwdriver today at Harbor Freight. It came paired with a straight one of the same length. They are item number 34253 in the HF store (you won't find them online, at least not today). For five bucks I bought two 24 inch long screwdrivers. Now I won't be burning my knuckles on the engine when I sync my carbs with a screwdriver that is almost to short. Still have to figure out what to do with that straight blade 24" long screwdriver...?