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Showing results for tags 'screw'.
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I removed the front cowling/fairing that goes over the headlight. Three of the plastic mounting points have completely broken off (the piece with the metal screw clips on them. Does anyone have a fix for this?? -
http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-RECTANGULAR-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productId=7724779&catalogId=&searchProducts=2040-0299 Now that I have the rear light bar on the bike I was replacing the bulbs & found the one of the sidemarker crystals has stripped screws so I can't replace that bulb yet. Of course my OCD is driving me nuts that I have a side marker out (even though I don't see it while driving). I want to pick up an extra crystal (this one is also scratched) before I try to extract the screw. I have nightmares of slipping & cracking the lens while using the screw extractor. So Does anyone know who made this light bar & what should I use for keywords on Ebay when looking for a spare. ( I assume they are no longer available). I think I may have found them...Anyone else bought these? http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-RECTANGULAR-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productId=7724779&catalogId=&searchProducts=2040-0299
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These are the pictures of my new fuse block. The block came off of the ebay site for about $10 or $12. The fuses are in the exact order as they were originally in except the accessory fuse was moved from the top to the bottom by extending that wire, by doing this I got more slack in the cables to put on the new crimp connectors.In moving the accessory fuse to the bottom I was also able to jump to the next fuse possession which gives me the benefit of adding another fuse for another accessory but you will have to remember not to go over the 10 amp total for both accessory fuses. I removed the old glass fuse block and used the bottom screw to mount the new fuse block and drilled another hole in the battery mounting bracket and used a brass screw and nuts to mount the top of the new fuse block. This brass screw became my accessory ground and strain relied for the bikes cable assembly. The new fuse block came with a cover but it was too tall to allow for the bikes top cover to mount so I had to leave it off. I did use dialectic grease on all the connections. I did this last year and have been very happy with it. I got a lot of the ideas from other posts on Venture Rider.
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We all know how fragile the end of the windshield tabs are so I decided to beef up mine before there was any damage done. What I did was used a small flat head screw and counter sunk drilled the hole already near the ends of the metal bar. That allowed the screw to sit below the rubber strip that the windshield is sandwiched between it and the outer fairing. Next I spot welded a small piece of 16 guage steel and an 1/8" welding rod together. Cut the rod to the right length and welded another tab to the other end. I mounted the lower tab to the bottom speaker mount. You'll need to bend the rod for the proper angles but that's easily enough done. The ends of the windshiled mounts are rock solid now. Another additional support I did was to add some brass flat stock to the mounting screws for the outside fairing. I cut the two outer pieces 1 1/2" long and the two inner ones 2" long , then drilled a 13/16" hole for the screws 1/4" from the top on center. The two inner pieces will need a slight bend to conform to the curve. Adding these pieces will spread the load over a larger area thus saving broken tabs under the washers. I've found that adding the brass pads will also help prevent the windshield from loosening as you can tighten the screws a bit more rather than squishing the plastic tabs at the screw heads.
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1996 Royal Star : Been playing around with pilot screw tuning options. I have a digital induction rpm meter...rpm bounce around but never over 1200 or under 900 rpm when idol set at 1000, or as close as I can figure by ear. I set it but still not happy. Then I got an IR temp gun and with the heat around the motor I never seemed to be getting an accurate temp as it flucated no matter what I measured on..and I ,measured almost everything on bike. So yesterday I took all the pilot screws out and cleaned them up and cut a little deeper grove for the srewdriver. I put them back in, set and left it at that for the evening. I have a brand new Morgan Carbtune for syncing...could I set my idol fuel air mixture with it? Shouldnt the vacuum change as the rpm rise and fall...just a thought. -
Yesterday, I went out to tweak the pilot screws after replacing the fuel pump. Anyway...three of the four screws turned easily...the fourth...well...didnt turn at all (in or out). As luck would have it, one of the brass "slots" in the screw head appears to have fractured. I sprayed liquid wrench on it to let it soak overnight, and will attempt to turn it this evening after work. Hopefully, I'll be able to use a flat blade to turn the screw. So the question is...."Can I replace the pilot screw WITHOUT removing the carb rack from the bike"? Anyone ever heard of the pilot screw seizing up? Is there a trick to prevent that from occurring? Maybe spray WD-40 on them?
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Warden gave me permission this morning to go get the Trike in Hendersonville for 20k. Screw it!! I think I'll pile all this junk up and let her have her yard sale!
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one of my pins came out of segement. i have removed the shifter lever and shaft but cant seem to break that countersunk star headed screw in the center any advice would help thanks. -
Hello All, I'd like to think i'm not a complete idiot (perhaps this is merely wishful thinking)... I have a '96 RS (boulevard?) and i belive is a XVZ13A. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-20_11-40-40_132.jpg I have the had this bike only for a couple of weeks and have been pretty happy with it other than the pesky vibration in 4th and 5th gears. I have read (and have been told) that i need to sync my carbs, so i bought a motion pro (i've read that the glycol will stick to the tubes of the gage and sure enough they do and i already wish i had gotten a morgan carbtune). At any rate, after calibrating the tool and hooking it up to the carbs the sync looked like this. http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-29_14-15-33_156.jpg So i began to sync the carbs using this page from my clymer manual http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p14/dbikers/2012-07-29_20-14-38_307.jpg However, this page is very different than the carb sync in some of the tchnical lbraries here as well as on Venturers http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002010&id=311 Well, to say the least i never got the carbs sync'd correctly and it's now worse. The screw to sync 1-2 worked perfect but the others adjustments didn't work correctly. Though i haven't ridden it, it backfires and pops and smells "hot" (lean) after adjusting the "A" screw to sync 4-3 and then the "B" screw to sync 2-4. Can anyone with a '96 tell me if the page from the book that i have attached is correct? If not can anyone tell me what the "A" and the "B" screws do on my bike so i can get them back to what they should be? Thanks in advance all. John
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I've been trying to get the screw under the trunk latch of my I/S out, the sumbich ain't moving! Tried the regular screw driver, didn't work. Tried heating the nut beforehand, didn't work. Tried grinding a bigger slot in the head so i could get a BMF screwdriver in there, no luck. Tried grinding the sides of the screw down so I could get a wrench on there, didn't work either. Seems like that thing is welded in there http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/Smileys/actions/tickedoff.gif http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/Smileys/actions/tickedoff.gifhttp://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/Smileys/actions/tickedoff.gif So how do I get this POS out of there short of grinding the whole head down? Thanks,
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does anyone know what size the screw is that goes to the throttle box on the handlebar, part# 98504-05025-00 pan head screw??
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I bought a set of these large pliers from Harbor Freight. I can not believe how many times they have come in handy in such a short time. Today I was trying to tighten a hose clamp that the screw was in a position that I couldn't get a small open end or screw driver to it. The long needle nose work well in loosening the clamp so I could spin it and re-tighten it. They also work really well on the oil breather line under the air box on a 1st Gen. I recommend a set of these for every tool box.
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Anybody have a jet block gasket for an 83? I probably have to swap another carb body out. I got everything back together and on the bike, and got it started. I was then checking that all the mixture screws were set the same. They all turned execpt for one. I could feel the screwdriver slipping so I took a look. The head of the screw was starting to strip out. I tried a few more times to get it out, but it would not budge. Then I tried an easyout, which broke. They must have had The Hulk put this screw in. It will not budge. Luckily, I have a spare carb body, already soaking in the parts washer. Just need a gasket to swap the jet block into the new carb. Also, anyone in Columbus, Ohio have a carb sync tool to use? I have an old Motion Pro mercury set, but I loaned it to someone a few years ago, and they were kind enough to let it fall over and it lost about half of the mercury. Pretty sure there is not enough left to use it properly. Thanks in advance
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Third times a charm?
venture83_98 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Got the carbs on, and was trying to adjust the mixture screws, which were turned all the way in. All 4 were stuck. Got 3 of them loose, but the last one rounded out the screw head. Pulled the carbs, took the one with the stripped screw off the rack, and got the screw out with an easy out. Reassambled my carbs and reinstalled. Now it seems to be running on all 4 cylinders. But I had fuel pouring out of the small plastic overflow on all 4 carbs (pic below). Gave them a few taps with a rubber mallet and 2 of them stopped, but 2 of them are still running a constant stream when the key is on and after the key is off.I am assuming that is because the bowl is still full. I am thinking stuck floats, or float level Any input is appreaciated. -
I have looked and looked and I cant find this screw. I just picked up an 89 and it runs well enough but I swear that it has a lean idle. The previous owner told me that his Yamaha dealer rebuilt the carbs but I don't know what they did or didn't do. I think that they left it too lean. It requires full choke when cold and takes at least 2-3 times as long as my 86 to come off of choke. Also when pulling out from a stop, it requires more throttle and lags a small bit until it gets going. And this is after it is warmed up. Accelerating while moving is laggy for the first 15% of the throttle. I read in a thread that three turns out on the idle screw is a good place to be. Is this a good method or should I just drive the bike to PA to see Earl? -
Ever been called a dumb a$$, and known it was true? Finally had a chance to work on my carbs last night. All the screws that hold the carbs together are rounded off, so its time to break out the dremel. I get half the head of the first screw cut off, and the screw is still tight. So I do the obvious: grab the hammer and screwdriver to chisel the other half of the screw head off. Not sure why that seemed a viable solution. So now I need a carb body. And according to my wife, some common sense. Oh well, we all make mistakes, some just cost more than others. Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
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I'm having a challenge installing my clearview xxl tinted shield. First, I come to a conclusion that I need to get all 4 longer screws. The shield thickness is much thicker than my stock shield making the stock screws too short.. Second the shield curve up by the mirror installation, where the screw goes in, there is a bend in the shield to match the curvature of the faring. The bend does not butt up to the curvature of the faring. When I screw the screw in with the metal washer/collar, in order to get the screw tight I'm pushing the shield bend towards the fairng until the metal washer/coller butts up to the bracket. Is the bend of the shield suppose to butt up again the faring or is it ok to just screw the screw in with the metal washer/collar tight until the metal washer/collar butts up against the bracket. I'd appreciate talking to someone who recently installed a clearview xxl & tall shield on an MKII.
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One of the screw holes used for securing the top cover on my clutch master cylinder is stripped. The screw is fine. Its the hole that is boogered. I currently have a slightly longer screw in there which did bite but I am not happy with it. Has anyone tried repairing the hole with a heli-coil or Does any one have a master cylinder that I can buy? Thanks, Ray
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Hello, I disassembled and cleaned out the carbs last weekend per the service manual. To make sure I didn't miss something, I've been going through the forum threads and articles. "mbrood" did a Carb Overhaul write-up in Tech section. In the 3rd to last paragraph he talks about the "The factory-set needle-valve screw..." The problem is, I have no idea what he's talking about. I'm concerned that I screwed in something too tight and ruined the needle valve now. Everything I unscrewed was TIGHT, so I put them back normal tight. I understand the needle valve and float relationship. He talks about a spring loaded screw for adjusting fuel flow. I don't understand what screw he's talking about. Can you guys help? Any references in the manual pages/pictures/ID numbers would really help. Regarding float level, it never dawned on me to check or adjust for this change. I understand the principle of putting fuel in the carb and letting the float rise up to shut off flow. I don't understand (1) why fuel level is so critical in the bowl (I thought it just had to have enough fuel in there to be able to maintain flow... assuming more was better) and (2) how to know where the float is at shutoff point when the bowl cover has to be on in order to fill the bowl. How do you get the float to remain stationary so you can check it's position? I read Squidley's recent thread on float level, and understand what he's measuring, but what has to happen at that level - start compressing the float needle valve spring? Or just making contact with the float needle valve? I'm (obviously) very new to carb work and appreciate your time and input. I'm anxious to learn though Many thanks in advance! -
And its not hello you are welcome! 1987 venture royale, 126,000 miles. I put 12,000 miles the summer before with grin always plastered to face! Beautiful ride, love the cruise control and radio. Wanting to raise my idle speed this summer, I located what seemed the "general screw" after turning the throttle that would do this on the carbs. I upped the idle speed and to my horror the motor started to knock. I backed the screw to what I thought was the original position but the knock is still there and has stayed with me the rest of the summer. My mileage went for a dump big time, down from 175 miles/tank to 145/tank. The knock does not seem to be "location specific" ie.: one piston/left/right side. I can remember tuning cars (dad was a mechanic) in the seventies with the first emission cars where turning the distributor to set timing, you could induce knock. Have I inadvertently done this and how do I proceed to get rid of this? Tanx!
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I thought this might be of interest to you GL1800 0wners. Installation is fairly easy. 1 Remove the screw through the bottom of the housing. You'll need a good phillips screwdriver, the factory screw has loctite. 2 Wiggle the mirror while pulling it toward you. It will slide out eventually. On the bench the factory mirror is on the right. 3 Mirror housing with mirror removed. 4 From the front of the motorcycle, peel back the rubber boot to expose the wires and connector. 5 The wires are long enough to pull out in order to install the supplied harness. You have to lift the catch on the factory connector to disconnect it. 6 New harness connected, ready to fish through to the inside of the mirror housing. 7 Muth mirror turn signal connector protruding into the mirror housing. A little tricky to get it in there, just be patient and work with it. 8 Wires connected, I have them on top to better show them. Actual installation was with wires laying on the bottom of the housing. The extra length of wire was pulled back to the outside of the mirror housing and stored inside the fairing by the rubber boot. 9 Carefully slide the assembly into place, making sure the two tabs at the top are properly inserted into the factory bracket. Install the supplied screw. Viola!!! A turn signalling mirror.
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Each diaphram cover has 4 screws. The upper right screw seen to take a star or allen wrench while the other 3 are Philips head. But I can't tell for the screw seems to have a center tip the stick out preventing the tool to slid into the head. Is there such a tool with a center hole?
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For those who have MKII what idel RPM setting do you like and why or is there just one recommended RPM idel setting. Also where is the idel setting screw?
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Hi. This is the first time I post on this forum. I need to know the part number for the bleed screw that bleed the carburator on a first gen 1983. I have one badly round off and cannot remove it at all. I would like to know if it's available before attempting something '' drastic'' to remove it! Thanks. Denis
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I picked up a screw in my rear tire (original Michelin Commander). I really like that tire, lots of miles left, can't find this tire anymore. I have plugged a roofing nail before on another tire, no problems. But this was a fair sized screw, dead center of tread, straight in. Tire is not torn but I don't trust a plug to keep air. Simple question,, is it safe to put a tube in the rear tire? (2006 RSTD stock size)
