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Showing results for tags 'sanding'.
Found 9 results
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Almost ready to start sanding my ol girl and I'm wondering about the pinstriping. Is covered by a clear coat (OEM) or anything? I'm just wondering what will happe when I start sanding! Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
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Ok I was cleaning my garage, a work in progress, when I came across my dremil tool. A light bulb went off as I purchased aftermarket saddlebag rails and they are smaller diameter. I did try some grommets but didn't like the look ( can you say afterthought) and they didn't work well. I decided to mark the location of the rails and with a sanding wheel remove some plastic to allow for mounting in the original position. I used the insides as a template for the radius as a starting point and a small sanding wheel to ease away the plastic. Once one sided was done and fit I placed them together to position the other half and repeated the process. -
I finally bought a dremel kit, mainly to fix a few broken tabs on the fairing but I'm sure it will be very useful for other things too. What's up with the drum sander bit? There is a rubberish drum on an armature and some sanding tubes that apparently slide on the drum. There is nothing I can see that will hold the tubes in place and even light pressure makes them slide up or down. Obvious or not, what am I missing?
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I have a few scratches in my front rim that I would like to fix. Other then sanding and polishing is there another way to fix the scratches. Or is sanding and polishing the best? If so whats the best polish to use?
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Well, been home for a week now recouping from sholder surgery, WAY to much time on my hands before I go back to work. Tinkering in my work shop, I want to run several more lines remotely off my air compressor so I have alternate locations that I can plug in air tools, etc. I am thinking of using 1/2" inch PVC pipe? Anyone have any experience with this? Just thinking 1/2" as its cheeper that 3/4"? Would ther be a difference in air flow CFM,s etc between 1/2" and 3/4"????????? Air is used mostly for blowing off parts, drying and a 3/4" air ratchet. Light sanding, no heavy spray painting or orbital sanding? Any hints?
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OK, first I just want to say that this thread is only an update for general info, so please dont add to this thread. I would like to thank those who have purchased these deflectors. And for their great patience with this project. We have shipped out 16 sets so far. It also turned out to be a very labor intensive project which requires hours of sanding, machine first then up to 2000 grit sanding by hand. Just about all of the finishing is being done by one man, Dan. Right now Dan is a bit under the weather and he needs a few days to recuperate from his illness so there will be a short delay in finishing the remaining sets on the first run. Hopefully Dan can resume making these by this weekend. Sorry for this inconvienence.......
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I bought a 2000 Mercury Grand Marquis 2 weeks ago and the headlights were horrible on it. I priced new ones and about choked. I saw Walmart did a headlight restoration for $40. I found out it's just a 3M kit that anyone can buy for $20 at VatoZone, Oreilly's,Napa, or Advance Auto. I tried the Meguiar's PlastX and spent an hour polishing them by hand. They looked better but they were still cloudy. I broke down and bought the 3M kit this morning after watching some youtube videos on headlight restoration. This kit works great. My headlights are crystal clear like new. If you have yellow, foggy, or cloudy headlights, this is a MUST!! You don't need the kit to do this. If you have very fine sandpaper (2000 grit or finer), then you could do this yourself by hand. I had no sandpaper nor do I have a polishing pad so the kit was more economical for me. The kit comes with 2 different sanding discs, a 3000 grit sanding pad, a polishing pad, an arbor and Velcro pad to attach the sanding discs and pad to, and some 3M plastic polish. You start out with an 800 grit paper and completely sand the headlight until the entire lens is a uniform texture. Next, sand it with a 2000 grit paper until all the there is a finer uniform texture. Then, use the 3000 grit sanding pad and water to sand all the scratches out of it. Finally, use the polishing pad and plastic polish to bring the headlight to crystal clear shine. Be very careful to keep the sanding discs clean. I apparently had something on one of my discs and now have some tiny little swirlly scratches in my left headlight. I can only see them at certain angles and I can feel them with my fingernail. I could probably sand the lens down some more and polish it out, but I'm very happy with the current results. I also removed three molded tits off the headlight lens. I took a rotary tool and ground them down flush and the 3M kit polished them out smooth. http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/650/1000563small.jpghttp://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8449/1000564small.jpghttp://img176.imageshack.us/img176/4675/1000565small.jpghttp://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6892/1000566small.jpghttp://img176.imageshack.us/img176/406/1000569small.jpghttp://img190.imageshack.us/img190/1906/1000570small.jpghttp://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3530/1000571small.jpghttp://img44.imageshack.us/img44/9899/1000576small.jpg
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Is there any chemical that will strip the paint off these old plastics and not harm the plastic its self? If not, I have years of sanding to do.....
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This was originally submitted to me years ago when I had a forum for the Honda Shadow. No reason why it wouldn't work on the Venture also. Polishing the Lower Forks All right, you've added all those chrome accessories to your bike and you look at your lower forks (sliders) and you want to spiff them up. Whether you just don't like that dull, swirling, satin pattern &/or you have nicks and/or scratches - you want them to gleam like the rest of your bike. You find out that to chrome them is not only expensive but you won't be riding for nearly a month (maybe more) because you will have to remove them and send them out. Can't handle the expense or the down time? You can polish them to a lustrous sheen - almost chrome like. This is manual/hand labor - quite a few hours. Your hands will get real tired. If you want a perfect job/end result, you'll wind up spending two afternoons doing it. Plan on a total of 5 to 8 hours, depending on your endurance and what shape your sliders are in before you begin. Road nicks and scratches will be sanded out and require extra time. (Mine were nicked up - this is what prompted me to do this.) Some people have told me they used a Dremel. I did not. My theory was that the Dremel sanding drum is a cylinder and so are the sliders - minimal contact points - most likely leading to furrows and ridges. Even on a flat surface (like the brake reservoir cover) the Dremel will sand in uneven rows/furrows. An orbital palm sander will finish a flat surface much better. This is not the case when doing the sliders. So, I opted for hand sanding, curling my fingers around the sliders and going at it with a graduation of finer grits. You start off with dry sanding and coarse grit, working up to wet sanding and finer grits to achieve a silky smooth finish. It's that simple in theory - and it works - but you have to put a lot of manual labor into it. I am not trying to talk you out of it. I am a realist and want you to know this is not a quick fix. Yet, it's worth it and comes out looking great! You have a few options to make your work easier. You have to remove the fender because there is no clearance to sand between the fender and the sliders. Once you do that, you are free to follow the procedure listed below. You could remove the sliders (but that's a pretty big job!) so you can work on a bench (faster and easier). I only removed the fender, got my camping stool and went at it. You also could apply a (toxic) stripper (now, now) to remove the clear coat from the sliders but I did not want the mess and any possible damage to the rims or spokes. To remove the fender, here is a hint from my mech. Jack up the bike to raise the front end, remove the wheel and use a scissors jack to push/seperate the forks to a wider position (don't over do it, just enough) to allow the fender to come out easily - w/o scraping/scratching the paint. Don't tweak the forks out of shape and damage them - you only need a little extra clearance supplied by the scissors jack! All that said, here's what I did: Starting off with DRY SANDING: 3M Aluminum Oxide for metal 1) medium grit - # 100 - to remove clear coat & smooth out nicks/scratches 2) fine grit - # 230 - to lessen marks of the 120 & the last of nicks/sratches Proceed with WET SANDING (get a pail of water) 3) medium grit - # 400 - really work it, eliminate nicks/scratches and all previous dry sanding marks - only now see #400 abrasions. 4) medium/fine grit - #600 - you're heading for the finish, smoothing it out 5) fine grit - # 800 - keeps getting easier, you are attaining a finished surface 6) finishing grit - #1200 - now you are getting the silky/final surface Optional step: Rubbing Compound (yeah, I'm a perfectionist) 7) tearing up an old T-shirt, creating a "shoe shine boy's" cloth, liberally apply compound to cloth, wrap it around the slider, and pull back alternately on the ends to work the complete surface of the slider to a "glass" smooth surface. Polish the sliders (your choice, Mother's or Simichrome or whatever shines best) 8) using a clean section of that T-shirt, apply polish (I used Mother's) and work that "shoe shine" rag over the complete surface of the sliders. When you stand back to admire your work, you'll be amazed. You'll forget about all the cursing of me that you did. You'll grin or laugh or say something out loud - it'll look that good - and you'll forget how tired your arms and hands are. The jury is still out for me on whether or not to apply a paste wax to the sliders to protect them. I did not. Other people told me that they did. I feared the wax would discolor my labors over time. I did my sliders in December of 98. Five months later and three or four washings, they still look great and shine. I am a low maintenance type of guy as far as cosmetics go. I ride, I don't spend time washing/polishing. I keep my bike garaged and covered - which helps a great deal. I ride to work whenever I can but it's a short commute (darn). I ride every other weekend because I have my kids every other weekend - so I average about 400 miles on those weekends. I mention all this so you understand why I did not put wax on the forks and why I wash the bike only once a month. Hope all this helped and you are completely happy with your polished forks/sliders! I am sure you will be. I hope the maintenance is little and you get to ride that shining beast a whole bunch! Happy motoring... Submitted by Crazy Charley
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