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Showing results for tags 'rubber'.
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I'm having a hard time finding where I have some fuel seeping from after using the choke to start on cold mornings. I do have significant cracks in the rubber intake manifolds that I suspect my be letting the fuel weep through, and the leak is up high. Any thoughts? -
I m rebuilding the forks on a 1990 Venture Royal. The plate seat came out. My question is there is a rubber ring that appears to bonded to the the plate seat is this necessary to have the rubber on it since fluid can get around it any way or do I need a whole new plate seat cause the rubber ring is important? Please look at the pictures Thanks.
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It was probably about a year ago that I picked up a used trunk spoiler. I think I'm going to finally install it and have a question for any of you that have added the Yamaha spoiler to your trunks. It came with rubber washers and flat washers. Does the rubber washer go on top of the trunk or do both go inside? -
I was at the Home Depot electrical dept. today and spotted these, and my first thought was they could be used as a replacement for the rubber straps that hold the side covers on the MkII Venture. It seems to be a small bungee cord with grommet, and about the perfect size for the application. -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA
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Hi guys. I have searched and read different threads about the install of new diaphragms. I bought a set for my 87 and hope to install them this weekend. I pulled one of the old ones out and have "practiced" the removal and reinstall with the old one. ' Looks like using a spray lubricant. What kind won't hurt the rubber ? How do you know if the inside seal that goes between the two "washers" is seated properly ? I was using the blunt end of two nail clippers to carefully separate the washers and then a small screw driver to push the rubber in between them. I am afraid the screwdriver might rip the rubber. Any specific info from your installation would be helpful. Thanks Bill
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Hey guys! Getting ready to do the valve job and carb clean and I see I've got cracks in my intakes. I know they don't leak and aren't known for failing but I'm thinking about putting some of that spray on rubber sealant just for good measure. You guys think this will be an effective fix or will I just be wasting my time/money?
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Here are the pics of my RSTD with Tour Pak added. This version was an aftermarket copy of the HD tour pack and had the rib in the bottom to sit atop the HD mounting bracket. I used my belt sander to take that off then welded up some square tubing to make the mount. I then put some rubber between my mount and the bottom of the tour pack, using 1/4" bolts and lock nuts. The back rest that came with it broke the rubber mounting blocks our first time out, so I ordered better replacements from McMaster Carr as suggested on this site. I'll be making another bracket at some point just to get a bit more sylish and maybe I'll have that one powder coated or chromed. This one just has some black RustOleum on it.
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Hi, Here is another question stemming from the dive into my red bike's dash: Is the trip odo reset rubber cover available as a spare part from Yama ? I have been to the Yama mother ship's web site and looked on the parts diagrams but I don't see it identified as an available part. Any one know? Are there any crafty work arounds I should know about, like modifying a baby bottle nipple to act as a stand in or similar? Thanks, Brian H.
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I removed my Yics system months ago and capped the ports with rubber vaccuum caps that i got at an automotive store. I capped the inner Yics hoses (bolt and clamp) since i couldnt reach them and used a cap on the outer ports. Recently, i started getting the popping back and then the strong gas smell. After looking closely during a break on a ride, i noticed that one of my rubber caps had deteriorated to a point where it was just attached by a thin piece of rubber (huge vaccuum leak). I need to find good quality rubber caps. Any ideas? When my bike started popping and smelling .......i started thinking Yamaha Tenere again, but after finding out my problem is a little one, i am keeping my comfortable beast. Would this type of leak be enough to cause the light popping on decel or should i look elsewhere as well. I did synch my carbs before my cross country trip. Is it time again?
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Any trick to getting the little rubber feet through the floorboard holes?? Had mine off and having trouble putting them back on
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I know this has been decussed before,but I need to know if I install 1 1/2 risers what do I do about the rubber bushing between the bars and fairing? Is there a replacement for this bushing?
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Has anyone here removed the rubber dampeners from their rear RSV wheel? Im not talking about the fingers but the actual rubber bushings that sit in the wheel. Just got my chrome wheels back and the rubber was destroyed. Any ideas??
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Probably a one off, but if a heads up helps anyone .. Had a meltdown couple of weeks ago (the 87 VR & me). Noticed the back half plastic fins on the right side-vent were warped. man was I pi@@ed, anyhoo, this was the only symptom of the motor overheating. it was extremely hot combined with city driving must have launched the motor temp. Temp gauge held steady slightly above normal on the green entire trip. (still don't understand why the temp gauge didn't redline) Didn't notice the fan cut in at any time, not to say it didn't, it is functional. There doesn't appear to be engine damage. Long and short of it, found the top of the 2 part front cylinder head cover/heat deflector had come apart and partially slipped forward between the front cylinders and the rad fan. The upper cover is secured to chassis frame by friction fit and connect to each other by a rubber channel and a dozen interlocking male/female rubber prongs. Repositioned covers and end of problem methinks. Checked front cylinder head covers this morning. Sure enough, they're separating slightly at the rubber channel. Reseated again, maybe zip tying them together would be one fix. Hope I'm on the right track here. left fin in image is normal. tough getting decent pics of the cyl covers.
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I bought and after market, Harley tour pack and the back rest offered by the manufacturer. The back rest has brackets and the lid needed to be drilled for the back rest brackets. Okay, have that. Between the back rest bracket and the bracket that bolts to the lid, they provided a rubber insulator. This turns out to be a rubber bushing of about 1 " in length with the head of a bolt embedded in each end, giving threads sticking out each end of the rubber bushing. The problem is, I haven't even finished my mounting bracket for the bike and the bolts are popping out of the rubber already. What does everyone use? I considered a piece of all thread in each of the three locations, with jam nuts on each side of the bracket. What have others done for this?
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i was out today pilfering and came across this for $4.99 @ O'Riley Auto Parts, great if u have a battery tender already has the male/female plug..all rubber coated with a nice tight cap.. http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/cc501/1hondaman1100/th_106_6937.jpg
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I found these in the rear case of one of the carcases that I bought yesterday. There are two of them, each one is very heavy for it's size. They have a rubber cap/stop on each end and two o-rings in the middle. Anybody have any idea what they are ?
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Like a lot of people I was not comfortable with the reach to the handle bars on my '09 RSTD. I purchased the kit from Buckeye Performance that moves the bars back 1". I never liked the solution they provide for installing the bar end weights. As you know, the bar end weights are screwed into a rubber insert in a fitting pressed into the bar end. The Buckeye kit includes a sponge rubber piece that holds the bar end like a bilge plug. I have found that vibration is causing the sponge rubber to slowly wear away. Also because it is sponge rubber the bar end weights always seemed to be that they could wiggle out. At this point I want to state that it is my understanding that all installations using the parts from Buckeye have had zero issues. I could have left the bar end weights as is and had absolutely zero issues with them. The other issue that I had with the parts is that they come with carbon steel fasteners. As you can imagine, these quickly rust and look unsightly (although I am the only one that notices this). I wanted to at the very least change out the bolts with stainless steel ones. I work at a power plant and we did some work on the condenser. In particular I wanted to check how well the plugs were doing in 2 of the condenser tubes. These are the plugs we use: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7091/7066194955_d8aaa5bbee_b.jpg The plugs were too big to fit into the ends of the bars, so I used a razor blade to shave them down: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7215/7066195827_ecc81c6f91_b.jpg This is what the sponge rubber piece looks like after 22 months in service: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5196/7066196551_c690030a7a_b.jpg I ended up getting 110mm long bolts, I should have gotten 100mm, but the 110 will work: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7272/6920119796_86afa32d2e_b.jpg Any way, they are in there really tight now. I will have to see how well they work over time.
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Sorry to be a newbie PIA. I searched on rubber grommets and got a cazillion hits. After wading through several I just decided to post the question directly: What is a good source for the rubber grommets that the side panel posts snap into? There is only one on my new 87. Thanks Dean
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I/m getting ready to start putting my '91 VR back together (doing forks, brakes, tires, yadda, yadda) and one thing on the list is replacing the wind shield. I found a Slip Streamer on evil bay, and couldn't resit the price. Its a nice looking piece of Lexan, but it doesn't quite fit. I can get the front bolts in, but not the ones at the back corners. The holes in the new shield don't quite match up, and I'm wondering if there are some parts (rubber dampers, bushings, or what ever) missing. I wouldn't be at all surprised 'Cause while I was doing the tear down I found several items that were "shade treen engineered. (God how I hate some "mechaincs"....) What would really help is if someone has some pictures of how the fasteners should look with the shield installed. Thanks in advance....
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Could someone let me know if the two rubber plugs at the bottom of the main jet body inside the flote cover need to be tight. I have the carbs of for cleaning and both plugs are loose, not sure if this is ok or not, if not where would i get new ones. Thanks Dave -
I believe it is called the needle daiphragm for the carb, but im not entirely sure. Started my rebuild today and noticed all the rubber boots had holes in them. Anyone who knows that its called would be much appreciated
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I want to move the trunk back the one inch that is allowable. Has anyone done this? There are hard rubber guides in the way can they be moved as well or cut with out any problem?
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I have a smart phone and use it for a speedometer, navigation and music on the bike (but refuse to use it as an actual phone while on the bike ) Anyway I have never been able to find a mount that I really liked, nor could I find one that would position it where I wanted it, so I had to make my own. I went to Radio Shack and started looking around and found a car mount system for $20 that I could cannibalize (don't tell BoomerCPO's pygmies though). I then used some mending brace and rubber lined P clamps and attached it to my mirror stem on the left side. The hardest part was finding a way to have at least a three point mounting for stability. As You can see in the pics there are three p clamps holding it in position. Additionally you will see that the piece that it all attaches to is actually setting on the top of the reservoir cover. All and all it makes it a very stable mounting. As for the swivel ball on the holder I had to used a grinder and flattened it out a little bit to accommodate the bolt head under it. This winter I will be cleaning it up by using shorter bolts. I will also be replacing the mending brace with metal strapping and will add rubber to the bottom where it sits on the reservoir. If I can find a local place to do it I might even get it chromed. One side note is that the holder squeezes the phone very well and I have never had it move or try to bounce out . . . well wait there was this one time I forgot to squeeze it shut and took of down the road. Lucky for me I looked over at it just as it was getting ready to leave my presence at 60 MPH and I was able to catch it in midair. I now have a small green rubber band around the top. It's isn't really there to hold the phone it's just a visual reminder to me to lock the phone in. No green no go. Here are some pics
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I just bought a spare rear shock cheap but there is a slash in the rubber boot. What im looking for is someone who may have a bad rear shock laying around who could cut off the rubber boot and send it to me so I can "bond" it to the shock I have now. Ill cover shipping of course. Thanks.....
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Was checking out the news this morning and a video from Logan, UT caught our eye. The link is here: http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/44499884/ns/today-today_people/ Let's keep our eyes open, the rubber on the road, and look out for the unaware... Teri and Erv
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