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Showing results for tags 'rpms'.
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Hi, Knowing I was not going to be able to ride for a while, about 5 or 6 months ago, I used a syphon pump to drain as much gas as possible from my 86 VR after having the needle jets cleaned by Northside Cycle (Elmer) in Corinth, Texas. For those in the Dallas area, this is a great place to have your older bikes repaired. Excellent service at a fair price. Anyway, about 4 days ago, I unplugged the maintenance "trickle charger", added about a gallon of gas to the tank, opened the choke all the way, twisted the throttle a few times, and proceeded to crank it. After a couple of attempts, it started right up. I let the bike warm up to its normal operating temperature and noticed it was idling at about 1300 RPMS which is a little above the normal range of 950 to 1050 RPMS. Each day since then, I have cranked the bike and let it warm to its normal operating temperature with the same 1300 RPM idling result. However, yesterday, I finally rode the bike around the neighborhood to see how it performed (braking, accelerating, etc..) while advancing through the gears. Everything performed just fine except each time I would come to a stop, the released throttle would allow the engine to idle down to the appropriate 1000 RPMS and then it would gradually advance to the same 1300 RPMS. In turn, at each stop with the bike parked in neutral, I would advance the throttle several times and then completely release it with same results. Question: Does this sound like a vacuum problem, throttle-cable problem, or another "gunked up" carburator problem? Since I keep the bike polished and clean on a regular basis, I thought I might have accidentally removed a vacuum line during the cleaning. So, after I remove the fake gas tank plastic top and side covers, this is is going to be the first place I look for the problem. After that, I am hesitant to start "fiddling-around" with anything else since I have experienced trying to repair something you really know nothing about usually costs you more money than if you initially carry the problem to someone that does. Anyway, your comments, suggestions, and/or advice would be appreciated concerning this issue. Thank you, A.S. Dallas, Tx.
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I've heard 30 mpg, 35, and I've heard of a Venture getting 40 mpg. Before the ignitech, I was getting 33-35 MPG. Now its 28-31 MPG with the ignitech. I haven't purified my Air Cleaner--again, its also a K&N. But what else? Is it something the Ignitech TCI is doing? I KNOW 100% I am running RICHER than I should be, as I can hear the popping and firing in the H-Pipe in the lower RPMs (2-2.5) it cleans up, but I noticed I got 32 MPG ridding her in the high RPMs, vs the lower RPMs yesterday. I rode from Hanford to Madera, and coming back I had enough gas to 2 up my sister from Hanford to Tulare, filling up on Huston and 99's Shell Station. I'd like to have my 35 back, or heck the 40 would be nice. I'm not going to take apart my carbs and chk the diaphragms, or sliders just yet... not until I've got replacements. Just in case they're the issue. Though She is running better now with the SeaFoam. Or am I hoping too much from the ol' Gal?
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When syncing the carbs on my 86 lst Ed, I can get all four carbs to be perfectly level at about 24 bars onmy Carbtune but at higher rpms, up around 3500 or 4000 or so, they are no longer anywhere being level. I have no vacuum leaks. Even when riding at 65/70 mph it feels like they aren't balanced. I hook up the Carbtune and at idle they are still perfect. Run the r's up while sitting there and same result.......not balanced at higher rpms. Otherthan than this, it seems to runs strong. Compression on all cylinders is about even 165 to 175. Just would like some comments regarding if this sort of thing is normal. I do have a second set of "just gone through" carbs and may try mounting those to see what happens. But that is a lot of work just to see "what happens". Thanks
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Dealer just completed warranty on the 07 RSV replacing the cylinder head gaskets front and rear. I have found what appears to be a vacumm hose disconnected beneath the fuel tank. I can't tell where the rear connects, however the forward end of tube is long enough to reach the air cleaners and perhaps more. Idle is not smoothe and there is a vibration getting up to higher rpm's. Once you reach mid to high rpm's it smoothes out. Mechanic stated it is a vent tube and stuffed it back under the tank. The end of the hose physically is expanded and looks to have had a clamp on it originally He did a carb sync and it seems only slightly better. Next step is to remove the tank myself and determine where the hose originates on the connected end and go from there. I don't see specifics on the vent tubes in the service manual, however I may be missing something. Note: The checked the valve adjustment at this time as well, 30K, and stated all were within spec. It was running great before their having worked on it. Appreciate any suggestions/guidance here. -
Does anyone know what hiway rpms are on the 2 gen(2007) rsv are say at 75 mph? thanks, Allen
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Hello all, I have been looking at an 84 and I am not so sure I am going to do this. I read up before I looked at it and was really impressed at the features. Because the bike has sat for three yrs I was ready for the usual issues. A dead battery that would start and run the bike with a boost was okay. The red flashing 'Warning!' light caught my eye, what is that?! The 'PSI' on the ride control led was showing with no other information, is it working? The idle stabilized after warming up but was high at 1300 rpms, a snap of the throttle reduced rpm's marginaly. I thought a little lube and adjustment might have settled this but after reading the forum? Sounds like I am going waltzing through the intake system, and oh the prices of diaphrams! Is there a weber carb and manifold on the market for these instead? Would 'HAL' (2001 Space Odyessey) the computer mind ? The left side oil leak at the valve cover seems easy enough. What am I looking at for new tires and which ones are the absolute best rated for this bike? And of course at what cost? The 2nd gear modification has been done, but the shift lever was difficult to use with my size 11, I really had to toe reach down for it, is it adjustable? The lever is a bit small and takes too much concentration to shift with. I read the electrical schematic and was impressed at what you have here, but, hey? Its only a motorcycle after all? I dunno...I jst wann go for a putt, not become snarled in issues! We shall see.
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Starting: I have noticed when starting cold my bike starts on the 3rd try every time, but never on the 1st or 2nd. Yes this is with choke pulled out etc. This is seldomly a problem on a warm bike. Shifting: I have been told to really get the rpms up before shifting and waiting to almost 65+ to shift into overdrive. Good gouge or bad gouge? Thanks Mongo
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Thanks for all of your help. Is there a device to hold the rpms steady when syncing the carbs. When you are doing it by yourself, there should be a throttle clamp of some sort or some way to keep precise rpms. Thanks again Midnight ryder:cool10::cool10:
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I rode a 2007 RSV for aobut three years and was used to letting the engine rev up when shifitng, and that included down shifting a bit early, to keep the revs up when power might be neeeded. now that I have a GL1800 I find that I shift late in the RPMs and downshift before entereing a corner and downshift early when comming to a stop......... I wonder if I need to chage my ways.............. what do you think?
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my wife wanted to take a ride to Roanoke Va. today, about 130 miles each direction. i decided that since the max speed limit anywhere i drove today would be 65 mph max, that i would make the entire trip in fourth gear. 98% of my riding is two up and my gas mileage lately has been around 33mpg but that was using fifth gear. my max speed today was 70 mph indicated on the speedo and if mine is 7% off then i was actually doing around 65 mph. the terrain from where i live to Roanoke is mildly hilly, so driving @ 65 in fourth kept the rpms in basically the sweet spot and especially pulling the hills. on my refill on the way back home the odo was showing 180 miles and it took 4.3 gals. to top it off - so essentially i got 42 mpg, which is 9 mpg better than i was previously getting. i would like to open up this strategy for discussion, such as pros/cons of fourth gear engine rpms vs. fifth gear engine rpms on longer trips. can anyone with a tach on the rsv or rstd tell me the rpms @ 70 mph indicated in fourth gear vs. rpms @ 70 mph indicated in fifth gear. i understand that fourth gear is technically an overdrive gear but am interested in your opinions. looking forward to the discussion, thanks ! buz
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Well today I changed my fuel filter. Went with the F10024. Wasn't to bad took about 30 minutes. One think I noticed was how long the fuel pump ran. Before it would "click" for about 10 seconds. With the new filter it only clicked about 2 seconds. Anyhow the chicken thing. After getting the filter changed I started her up to check for leaks. While it's running I hear was sounds like a "chicken cackling" near the front of the engine. I gave her some rpms and the noise went away but came back when the rpm's came back down. I'm wonder If the noise could be the water pump? . Now for to the coolant. Should have time for that, then it's off to work. :depressed:
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Ideas needed. I pulled my plugs out to check them. Number 2,3,and 4 were wet. Running down the road at lower rpm's it sounds like it was flooding. I have richened out the carps. Could it just be to rich on those cylinders. The pipes are all hot so it is firing on all four. When I turn the throutle it runs fine at higher rpm's. Do I just need to lean out those 3.?????????????????????? Thanks Richard
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I just got a 1986 Venture Royale with 33,000 miles on it.We just took it on a 1200 mile loop thru California and all went well. On freeway riding my rpms were arond 3800 to 4100 for speeds between 65 to75 mph. Does that sound normal for that speed and is that motor happy running that speed all day long? I'm used to lower rpm's as my last bike was a road king.
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At the Asheville East KOA road today half way back to KOA tach drops to 0. Roll of throttle tach shows RPM's again, roll on throttle about 2000 drops to 0. Coasting down hill shows RPM's 3000 roll on throttle hard RPM's come back. Cleaned the connection on left side any thoughts what could be hope not the TCI, starts fine idles good. Your help as always appreciated.
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Bike has 35,000 on it. Bike sputters from 3500-4000 rpm's but then seems to smooth out after that. 70mph that I drive on my commute is right in this range. Carbs have been soaked, synced, and the diaphrams patched by my mechanic. He mentioned that it might need the needles replaced(He said it is not a fun or inexpensive job), or maybe new diaphrams. Other than that bike runs great and gets 40-45 mpg. Before I proceed I thought I would ask you guys. Thanks Doug
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So I was reading a little while ago on a thread where Goose wanted a different gearing ratio so that he could ride at a little HIGHER RPM to imprive gas mileage. That seems backward. What is the best RPM to be cruising at on this bike??? I come from a 2 cylinder, so there I was used to keeping it low- like 2000-2500ish... Should I be riding this at a higher RPM to get the best mileage? On a second note,when I'm kinda riding hard and gunning it in the higher RPM's, it feels like the transmission is slipping sometimes, and then slowly grabs (over a second or so), almost like the clutch is a little in, even though my hand is off the clutch. That normal?
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Took my rsv to a bike nite tonight and had it put on a dyno to see what it would do. Its all stock but h-d mufflers. I was the only non harley in the group. It peaked at 76hp and 75 ft pd of trrque at 6000 rpms. Found out the rev limiter is set at 6000 rpms so it would go no farther. I was pleased with was they said. Its amazing how maney people don't know what a Venture is.
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just bought a 07 RSV and am wondering about rpms at highway speeds. Seems to lug along in 5th at 60 and barley smooths out at 65. Should I still be in 4th at 60?
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I just bought my uncles 96 royal star with only 4300 miles on the ticker... A few months ago it would not run and leaked gas by the carbs, and he had it to the local dealership for "bend ya over" carb servicing. I took possession of it this weekend, and warms up fine, and idles fine, but when you crack the throttle it bogs... When accelerating from a dead-stop it bogs and I have to rev it and ride the clutch to keep it from stalling out. After that the initial low rpms it kicks in and accelerates fine, but still feels weak (though I have never ridden a Royal Star.) I really do not want to trouble shoot everything, and would like to get to the heart of the matter. So, based on my description would anyone have a good idea what it may be, and to remedy it? Thanks! -
Ok....all was good for a while. I finally got her to a state where I can drive her daily to work. Acceleration and take off were great. After a few days, there started to be some lag below 3k. After a few more days of driving, it got to where it lagging below 4500 RPMs, the 5k and now it is at the point to where it will lag until 6k. After I reach 6000 RPMs, she shoots off like a rocked, but of course I have to shift and when I do, the lag or bogging down returns till 6000 RPMs is reached again. I am not sure where to start....I just had the carbs syncd and I cleaned the plugs. I just replaced the air filter and I have new wires on the way. Could it be the fuel filter causing my issues or do you think that I will have to clean my carbs again (3rd time in 6 months)? It seems the more I keep driving it, the higher I have to get the RPMs in order to get normal throttle response. also, Yes, I have been running seafoam. Please help....
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Just installed a new (only 67 miles on it) 2008 RSV differential in my 1998 VMax. I know it's popular to swap these ring and pinions back and forth between the two bikes. VMax owners want to lower rpms at freeway speeds and the Venture guys want more pull and to keep the revs up a bit. I didn't send mine off to RMS Sportmax for the gears to be swapped. The shock boss is already on the Venture differential, so it's easy to see where to drill the stepped and tapped hole (if you already have a VMax diff for a pattern. I just removed the shock mounting stud from my VMax diff., used the mic to measure all of the stud's shaft dimensions, thread size and depth, and machined me a hole and tapped the threads in the Venture housing. I installed the shock bolt and made a cover for the Venture's speedometer sensor hole. Took the bike out for a spin today and enjoyed the reduction in rpms at highway speed. Even though these engines don't really vibrate around 70-75mph, riding the VMax in that range now seems to be kinda relaxing. I think the rpms dropped about 500 or so, but am not sure. I can't really remember, but I think it used to turn 4000 at 65 mph and now turns about 4000 rpms at 75 mph. I may just drill a speedo sensor hole in the VMax diff and install that on my RSV just to see how the bike likes the lower gearing. That kinda stuff is what happens when my wife is remodeling the kitchen and I'm staying out of her way. I just pay the bills and head to the garage to "tinker a bit". Oh well, these are the kind of posts you get from me when I'm bored on nightshift. Rusty
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Anybody run into this? If I set the idle to 950-1000 with the adjuster screw, the RPMS are very slow to come back down after revving. When I ride, I shift and the RPMs stay prettty much where they were when I pulled in the clutch. Running good otherwise. -
Let the McGuiver'ing begin!!! spent the whole evening attempting to mount the arm rests and finally have a way to do it that I'm satisfied with. Passenger highway pegs were a 10 minute job. Have the grille on but it rattles agaqinst the radiator at certain RPM's. Need to do backrest and trunk rack tomorrow along with the air horn, followed by lights, etc...
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When people have talked about the low end power on these 1200 motors, I felt like mine seemed to have more power (torque) than most. Mine at 25mph in 5th gear on flat ground would pull surprisingly strong compared to what other described about having to keep their bike above 3,000 rpm's. I also felt like at about 6,500 rpm's that the power was starting to taper off in that it was not pulling as hard. I know this bike pretty well as I have put 100,000 miles on it since I have had it for 13 years. I have patched the diaphragms a couple of times and it did seem to make it run a little better. With the new diaphragms, it is just opposite. Now, it feels a bit less torquey at low rpm's, but as I go over 3,000 rpm's in 1st gear at wide open throttle it now is almost scarey how quick it will pull to 8,000 rpm's. It now seems like just a few seconds in 1st and 2nd to 70 mph or more. I am wondering if I will get better gas mileage than before as I was getting from about 38 to 43, according to the road and my speeds. Now, if I am going to get anywhere near that good I am going to have to crank her down some as I am now catching myself looking for a place to crank it on. It's almost addictive how much pull it has as it is winding up and at 8,000 rpm's it is still pulling hard. I was just wondering if anyone has experienced this change with new diaphragms? RandyA -
I HAVE AN 07 RSTD I HAVE 3 OF THE 4 WIRES CONNECTED BUT I'M NOT SURE WHERE TO CONNECT THE GREEN WIRE THAT GETS THE SIGNAL FOR RPM's. DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE THIS SETUP. HELP
