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Showing results for tags 'resistance'.
Found 14 results
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Has anyone had any problems with their TPS? I have the 07 RSTD which has been in the shop for waaaaaay to long. Anyhow as mentioned before in another thread they finally got the head gasket fixed and put it back together. But it is running like crap! Idles fine, rev's fine in neutral. Put it under load and open the throttle and it feels like hitting the Rev limiter. Does it more in higher gears where the load is greater due to gear ratio's. We have checked everything we can think of and everything others have mentioned here but to no avail. We have pretty much ruled out the carbs and timing. They checked the TPS and apparently the resistance was all wrong like no resistance. They are suppose to have one ordered and hopefully be in this week.. Has anyone else had a problem or can shed some light?
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I might be one of the few people who have vents on side covers and fairings that are still intact. My question is what did Yamaha do to create some resistance on the vents to hold them in place? It seems the vents have a mind of their own. When I don't want heat, those open. When I want some cool air, those ones shut on me. Any help would be appreciated before I try to rig something up.
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In a nut shell I had a new clutch put in,rode for a couple months parked for a year (due to med reasons) I am back and no resistance on clutch lever (lever pulls back to easy) and no leaks under or on bike? 99RSV
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I'm search-challenged! So I've seen LOTS of references to a procedure for checking plug wires / coils for resistance (on RSVs)....but I have yet to "stumble upon" that holy grail! I've searched "spark", "resistance" and a bevy of other spark-related terms...but have not found THE procedure. From what I can tell, this may be a document created by V7Goose? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
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Anyone here ever tried to adjust the throttle position sensor on a 2nd gen (or even just check the closed throttle measurement)? I think I found another significant error in the shop manual, but I would like to compare notes with others who may have already gone there. Page 6-13 of my shop manual describes how to calculate the proper maximum resistance of the sensor in the throttle fully closed position (typically around 700 ohms), then they instruct you to measure this resistance between the yellow and blue wires. Well, the resistance between the yellow and blue wires is HIGH in the fully closed position and goes down as you open the throttle. You get the correct low resistance with the throttle fully closed when measured between the yellow and BLACK wires. Just for the record, the TPS on my 05 was reading a bit high in the fully closed position, and it could not be adjusted down within specs - close, but not quite low enough (calculation showed it should have been between 629 - 726 ohms. It started at 778 ohms and I could not get it below 752 ohms). I have not researched this circuit yet to know how this should affect the bike. I'll let y'all know more when I figure it out. Goose -
Still tracking down the intermittent spark problem on cylinder #1. Pulled rear coils and checked them for resistance, primary resistance was within limits, secondary coil resistance showed an open loop on both coils. Just to be sure,to check secondary resistance per the book I should put one lead from the DVOM into the spark plug wire( with the cap off) and the other should be to ground at the coil mount. The DVOM shows open loop on both coils. The cylinder #2 that uses the other coil in the pack is firing as it should, or at least it is firing ( exhaust gets hot). This makes on sense.
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I know that the service manual states on page 8-24 that the stator coil resistance ought to be between 0.279 and 0.341 ohms. Has anyone actually taken this measurement (excluding the run to pin 4 - since that seems to be a typo)? If so, what did you end up with? I am currently trying to troubleshoot my scoot and have already done the voltage check at the battery (which the scoot clearly passed). I have taken this measurement, but the resolution of the meter that I used is only 0.1 ohms, and I do not know for sure what the accuracy of the meter is nor what the TRUE range of this meter is... I have a better one at my office, which I will pick up when I go in next time to redo this measurement. The goal here is to verify that the stator is good/not good before I install and possibly ruin a new radio and/or not waste the money and time on a new stator if it is not necessary. Thanks in advance!
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I thought I had a TCI or kill switch problem that ended up being a side stand switch that had a lot of resistance. My bike went from an occasional stumble to shutting down. The connection is under the left side panel and can be followed from the side stand up. I found mine had all kinds of resistance readings. You can check any combinations on the three wires with the side stand up or down and there should be no resistance or a complete open, nothing in between. I ended taking my switch off and sprayed contact cleaner down the side of the plunger while moving it in and out. I did this several times and then blew air around it and put the boot back in place. The bike started instantly and on a 180 mile trip yesterday thru the mountains doing many hard pulls, it never missed or stumbled at all. This is an easy check whether your bike is running good or not and should be checked before you start to have a problem or get stranded. RandyA -
I'm continuing to have trouble with getting a spark out of my #4 cylinder. All ignition and pickup coils passes the resistance test in the service manual. Swapped pickup pins from #3 to #4, that would generate a spark through the #4 ignition coil. Believing I had the problem isolated to the TCI, I first swapped transistors on the original unit then purchased another TCI from ebay. After resolving some interlock issues, I'm having the same problem with spark on 3 cylinders, none on #4. Is there another way to verify the pickup coils are working or non-functioning? Here are my resistance tests on the pickup coils: #1 119.7 Ohms #2 122.2 Ohms #3 118.7 Ohms #4 115.9 Ohms I'm wondering if the contact area for that coil is not any good, would that still show good resistance? Any thoughts?
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I want to wire up my turn signals like the first bikes, w/o the extra electronic components on later bikes. Just the handlebar switch, flasher relay unit and bulbs. I tried that but every relay unit canister I plug in just buzzes and will not flash the bulbs. When the switch is moved left or right, the proper bulb shines but no blink. If any techno brains know why, I'd appreciate an answer. I realize that they blink when a certain amount of resistance is produced from the energy used to light the bulbs. But, is there a blinker unit that operates with a timer or by any other method other than resistance?
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Hi Y'all, Manual calls out these specs: Secondary coil winding resistance - 10-15 K-ohms Plug caps - 10 K-ohms My bike is running normally and I didn't check the coils, but I did check the caps while I was clipping 1/4" off the ends of the plug wires and re-attaching them (a little preventive maintenance). A PO has replaced at least the front caps. The two rears don't have a brand name on them and I don't know if they are original, but they each have about 8.5 K-ohms. The front caps are NGK and are each 5 K-ohms. I figure, given the wide range of acceptable resistance in the secondary windings, that the spark probably doesn't really care that the fronts and rears aren't exactly the same. But I was wondering if 5K-ohms in the front (compared to the spec of 10) could contribute to ignition noise in the radio - not enough resistance for proper noise suppression. I don't understand noise suppression, so this is a wild guess. Does anybody know? Thanks, Jeremy -
While changing oil today I decided to run the rear wheel, with the engine, while I had it jacked up. I got a lot of noise from the rear drive train in every gear. I am thinking that it was from not having any resistance on the rear wheel because I get no noise while riding. She's as smooth as silk when I turn it by hand. Any thoughts on this one?
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Sending Unit Repair Thanks to Brian H. (6m459) for this excellent article. I measured my sender unit resistance and found it to be open circuit as was suggested by another member. I removed it from the tank to find that the wiper would loose contact with the resistance wire at the mid point, of the float travel, as the resistance wire substrate is warped. It made good contact at top and bottom but not in the middle. I found that there is a handy adjustment available that lets you re-tension the wiper quite easily. Undo the screw and slide the bushing closer to the resistance wire, against a compression leaf spring, then re-tighten the screw. All seems to work well again now but I'll be keeping a close eye on it for the next little while. Shown with cover removed. Note bend in resistor wire substrate. http://www.venturerider.org/sendingunit/1%20(Small).jpg The wire loses contact with the resistor midway. http://www.venturerider.org/sendingunit/2%20(Small).jpg Solution: Loosen screw, slide wiper closer, retighten. http://www.venturerider.org/sendingunit/3%20(Small).jpg Close up view. http://www.venturerider.org/sendingunit/4%20(Small).jpg
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Originally posted by "Squeeze" In cold Conditions, and if you use a Standard Lead/Acid Battery, i recommend, before Starting the Engine, leave the Lights on for 30 Seconds. Seems to be stupid without Explanation. It is not ... The starting Power the Battery is able to give ist in direct Context to the inner Resistance of the Battery. If the Acid is cold, the Resistance will be high, e.G. 10 Ohm. If you start the Bike right away, the Resistance in the Battery is much higher than that of the Startermotor. The Startermotor ist in short Circuit in the first Moment of putting Current on it. As the Startermotor starts to turn, the Resistance rises to the normal Level of about 2 to 4 Ohm. The Resistance of the Battery with 10 Ohm and the Motor with Zero or maybe 2 Ohm, is much more a Batteryheater than a engine starting Subsystem. The Power of the Battery gets lost while heating and cranking the Engine. If the Engine doesn't start right away, the Battery power gets weaker and weaker, even if it is now heated with own its Power. There is no more Power left to deliver to the Starter. If you put on your Lights first, the Battery will have the same starting Resistance, 10 Ohm as i said. The Bulbs have a much higher Resistance, so, the Bulbs will shine and the Battery gets also heatet but not that quick and not that energyconsumpting as a failed starting Sequence will have used. The inner Resistance of the Battery drops down on warmer Condition inside the Battery. 30 Seconds later ... Voila... press the Button and the Starter cranks more powerfull, because this Circuit isn't a Batteryheater anymore. By "preheating" the Acid, it is more Capacity awakened as the Loss by the Lights is. The 10 Ohm as the inner Resistance is not the correct Value, it is just for explanation and better Understanding of the System. In Fact the Resistance is more 1 Ohm than 10, anyways, this tiny Trick works on all Lead/Acid-Batteries for sure. Cars, Bikes, Trucks ... Might also be helpful on Batterytypes, but not that impressive, because other Types have a way smaller inner Resistance by System. This is not my idea, i did learn this Years ago, when i was 3 Days send to a Battery manufacterer for a 3 Days Seminar. __________________ Life's too short to have bad Drinks ....
