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Showing results for tags 'reservoir'.
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Good afternoon Venture owners! My 2005 Midnight Venture w/67,572 miles is exhibiting an annoying habit of not wanting to go into neutral easily. Clutch fluid was changed at Maintenance Day in 2016 w/59,248 miles, then again in Sept. of 2017 w/66,815 miles. Prior to MD in 2016 I had NEVER changed the clutch fluid and it was like used motor oil. I did find a previous dealer receipt at 36,560 miles where they recorded they "adjusted clutch" whatever that means. When I changed it last Sept. (2017) it was slightly colored, but not dark...nothing like MD change. Today, it looked nearly brand new before draining and replacing. The fluid coming from the bleeder valve was very clear and no air bubbles. Before draining (by syringe) the fluid in the reservoir, I noticed 3-4 dark "spots" in the bottom toward the left side of the reservoir. Any debris would naturally go here due to the lean of the reservoir and the bike on its side stand. When I disturbed the dark debris with a screw driver, it was suspended in the clean brake fluid, similar to the way food coloring would react when being mixed into water. I sucked it out with the syringe then slowly deposited it on a clean white rag looking for anything solid. The dark color was not anything solid in nature. 1) I've tried to do my own research here, and haven't found anything on the contaminate, but did find Condor's previous reply to someone cautioning against OVER filling the reservoir. My regular parking spot does not reveal any leaks, and the fluid level was not low. Too much fluid could be one issue I have had. Related to that, do I check the site glass siting on the bike with the handlebars in the straight forward position? Leaning to the right with full right turn in play in an attempt to get the top of the reservoir parallel to the ground? In what position should the bike be when checking the site glass for half full? 2) With 67,500+ miles should I be considering clutch replacement and upgrades, though I'm not having any other issues? Do the internal components of the clutch (friction surfaces, etc) degrade and breakdown? I have read some of the posts about weak springs, etc. Should I be watching/listening/feeling for tell tale signs of some catastrophic clutch failure with this mileage? I'm already planning on front springs (Progressive I suppose) and rear shock replacements this year, as the Venture has finally lost its smooth feeling ride. I am VERY disappointed that I can't make MD this year. It was a BLAST in 2016 and I learned SO MUCH! As usual, your expert advice is always sincerely and greatly appreciated!! Respectfully, John in Oregon
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1992 Venture Royale. Working on brakes. Is it just me, or does the location of the reservoir for the rear master cylinder make it a real pain to work with? I'm thinking I need to put that thing somewhere else. At least somewhere where I can get the lid off. Yes, I know I can fill it with a syringe or tubing, but I'd rather just put where I can see into it, clean it out if I want to, etc... Anybody ever tried this or am I trying to over-simplify this bike? Thanks, Richard:lightbulb:
- 4 replies
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- brakes
- reengineer
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Saturday I got to take a ride I've wanted to do for a while over Wolf Creek pass (Hwy 35 from Woodland to Hanna, UT). What a great ride and the colors are in the midst of changing. Just off of the Hwy is Mill Hollow Reservoir. Jan and I worked at a school education camp by the reservoir, when we met 33 years ago. The guy I was riding with asked if I had ever been up that road.....YES!!! Even though it was gravel road with washboards, we went the three miles up and back. What great memories. We have a painting of the lake from the same perspective as the attached picture. http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr70/utadventure/MillHollow_zpse74f96d1.jpg http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/rr70/utadventure/MillHollow2_zps1111a1dd.jpg
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well took the bike out today made it about 6 miles. started to slow down. then i stopped and could not move. didnt bring any tools with me that was stupid. stuck on one of the busiest street in town. cant move. cop didnt even stop. a homeowner let me use his small socket set to bleed the linked brake front caliper. then i could move how can you tell how full the reservoir is supposed to be. i think it was to full and expanded putting on the brakes or am i missing something. flushed and rebuilt all parts made sure all holes were open dont know how to check amount of fluid. filled till full.
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Does anyone here have a rear brake reservoir for an "83 VR. Mine broke a while back when I tried to loosen the bolt to add fluid. I repaired it using JB Weld and it held for a while but today it broke again. I either need another reservoir or if someone can tell me something that I can repair it with.
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im not as talented as others with fabrication, so, i bought one of these reservoir mounts for my Garmin 1490lmt. total cost was about 55.00.
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1988 VR... anyone know how to remove the screws on the clutch reservoir? whoever tighten the screws got them so tight that they are striping the heads....Any ideas on how to remove them? Rabbit:confused24:
- 39 replies
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- clutch
- rabbitconfused24
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I noticed the other day that my rear brake pedal was going down farther than normal. I changed my pads abouth 6000 mile ago so I thought I was due for new ones. When I did a visual check by removing the inspection cover, it looked like they were getting close enough to change. I went out and bought some new ones and started to change them. When I removed them, I discovered that I had at least half of the pad left. The outside pad had worn slightly more than the inside so I decided to swap them. In the process of compressing the pistons, I decided to check the fluid level in my reservoir and found it EMPTY! I finished installing the pads and added fluid to the reservoir. The level must have been just below the bowl because it I got a few bubbles come up while filling and when I blead the breaks I didn't get any air from the caliper. I ran enough fluid through the system to ensure that ther wasn't any air in it. My pedal is tight and working perfectly. Now the mystery begins. I inspected the entire rear brake system to figure out where my leak was (I surly had to have a leak). To my surprise I couldn't find any evidence of a leak or even dirt collecting where the had been a leak. I've been working on cars, airplanes, and bike most of my life and have never had brake fluid just disapear. Hydraulic fluid doesn't evaporate (as far as I know).So where did it go? I know that the reservoir was full the last time I installed pads and I have checked the site window ocasionally when I was cleaning the bike. Has anyone else seen this or have a resonable explaination?
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As so many here, no doubt know, the side cover over the coolant reservoir (and its mate on the starboard side) only have one functional fastener and two rubber mounted "posts". After working all day yesterday on the bike the last thing I had on my to do list was a quick check of the coolant level... I removed both bolts in the side panel, pointless, I know, but no harm, no foul. Then I tried pulling out on the panel, when it did not come out easily, I did not want to bend it so I decided that the lip must be inserted under the center panel (in front of said reservoir) so I removed the top bolt in the center. Can you hear it? "Click, tink,tink"... dang nut fell down behind that panel, but never hit the ground..pulled on the side panel again and it came out which is when I realized that I did not need to take that blasted bolt out to begin with... an hour of looking, rocking, cursing and disassembly later and I heard finally it hit the floor. OK... I walk around the bike and slide the nut up behind that panel, put the screw through the hole.. and drop it again. Can you hear it? "click,click" but not to the floor. Another hour of looking, rocking, and cursing and my wife made me go to bed without finding it "For my sanity" she said. Tonight I go back at it, and after loosening the reservoir that started all this, I see a loose nut lodged behind the bracket that hold the thing into the bike. A couple of quick bolts later and I have it... except it was not the one I dropped Pull the reservoir completely and wedged down in the coil brackets I find my missing nut. :cool10: Now it is all back together... and I have a story to tell... 3 plus hours and 2 loose NUTS! Oh... the coolant was fine.
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By any chance someone recorded how many strokes of the lever one needs to pump before new fluid is bleeding out? I bleed my clutch, front brakes and rear brakes. All the fluid that came out seemed really clean, being that I have only put 1000 miles since I purchased my 89 VR, I do not know when they were last bleeded. I pumped 4 times then refilled the Reservoir until I guessed it was enough. I also made sure that each Reservoir ended up half full for expansion.
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Quick question... Can you install the Speedbleeders WITHOUT draining the reservoirs? It seems like there would be enough vacuum from the reservoir being closed...that once you remove the old bleeder valve, you might get a little leakage...but that shouldn't drain the reservoir...should it? You expert opinion would be greatly appreciated!
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trying to bleed the brakes - starting at rear - i cannot remove the reservoir lid due to a molded plastic piece in the way - i do see an allen screw which appears to hold it in place - must i remove that screw to access the reservoir lid?? see pic...............
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I am in need of a rear master cylinder reservoir for 1983 Venture. My brother just bought my old '83, and while working on the brakes for him, I was trying to loosen the bolt on the rear master, and I broke the housing. So....I need a rear master cylinder reservoir. Let me know what you got, and how much.
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Last night, I went ahead and replaced my Amber colored clutch fluid. I bought a set of Speed Bleeders and they are the best your money can buy. There is just one thing that was not mentioned anywhere (I've never seen it), if one wants to replace the OEM bleed valve with the SpeedBleeder type. One must remove the left rear fins that are held by 3 allen head bolts. If you don't do this, there is no way you'll be able to remove the OEM bleeder. I had to refill the reservoir at least 4 times to be certain that I have clear liquid coming out the other end. As a beginner, it took me almost an hour being careful not to spill any brake fluid. Next in line is the rear brake reservoir...it does looks dark from the exterior.
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I need to order a RAM mount for my GPS. Looking at the mounting options has me confused what will fit on an 89 1st Gen. There doesn't seem to be much room between the actual round bars and the reservoirs. Any examples or pictures of what has been done or works? The reservoir mounts
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Take that anyway you want to here's the question -I already pestered Earl with this but I did not explain myself properly, and the man should have to do everything! I pumped fluid from the rear bleeder to the master cylinder without a problem. I am trying to do the same in front, push fluid from the bleeder on the caliper through the line to the reservoir. Problem is that I seem to be blowing most of it out from between the tube and the bleeder as thought there is a block. I took the bleed screw out and it is clear. No fluid seems to be reaching the reservoir. What would cause this. *It's a new master cylinder!!
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I just purchased the Ram Mount Reservoir Cover from MotorcycleLarry.com. This is the cover that replaces the OEM reservoir cover and has a RAM BALL on one end of it. I am just curious for those of you that use this mount...Did you put it on the Right or Left (I am assuming most put it on the left)...and more importantly, do you have the BALL to the inside of the bike or the outside? Do you use the 2" arm or the 3" arm and do you mount it ABOVE the Com/Audio Controller or over to the side. Thanks for any and all help on this. Wally
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On my way home yesterday I noticed the back of my legs were getting cooked, I attributed it to a suspected leak in the exhaust possibly dumping more hot air into the engine compartment. Rode a little this evening and same thing happened except that all of a sudden it would disappear, and come back, and disappear, and ... you get the picture. The temp gauge did not waiver from well in the green (one width above horizontal), yet it would seem that I am only getting intermittent cooling, yet the cooling reservoir is full. Is it possible to not have coolant flow through the engine, without it showing on the gauge? Where would I have a blockage for this to happen? What other cause could there be for this excess heat build up?
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Hi, One of the issues my red bike came to me with is an intermittent brake fluid alert on the dash computer display, regardless of how much fluid is or isn't in the hydraulic systems front and rear. (The P.O. had disabled the red flashing light by cutting a wire on the back of the dash but I can't live like that.) When it happened to me today, I had forgotten, that I had previously (last fall) isolated this to the float switch in the front brake reservoir. Sometimes it seems to stick open circuit and nothing will persuade it otherwise. After a bit of headlight removing, wire tracing, continuity measuring and head scratching, it all began to come back to me so I popped the lid of the res and lifted the float by hand. NOPE still o/c on that float switch even with the float held at top of its travel. I just happened to have a very powerful magnet, from a computer disk drive, handy. When I held it close to the side of the reservoir casting, suddenly I had continuity at last. Remove the powerful magnet and bob the float and the alert comes back. The lessons here I think are that: A) a powerful magnet is a good but not obvious trouble shooting tool. B) that my float's magnet is weak or the reed switch has become unreliable or both. Questions I have come away with are: 1) Can the reed switch portion of the reservoir be changed? 2) Can it be done without removing the brake lever assy from the handle bar? 3) Is there any way to get a more powerful magnet into my float or perhaps rejuvinate the one already there? BTW, I also have a similar thing going on with this bike's engine oil level switch. I have in mind to replace that next oil change but it seems odd that two float switches would fail on the same bike. Is there any history of this? Do you think I should ask the P.O. if he experiences other odd phenomena like crops circles that might also have had an effect on the magnets on this bike? Opinions and advice welcome as always. Thanks, Brian H.
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On the Master Cyl Reservoir cap for my front brakes one of the screws is stripped out. It looked like the Previous Owner tried to open it and butchered the head and stopped. I noticed this so I bought 4 stainless replacements for the Clutch and Front brake reservoir caps. I cant get this last one out. I gave it a small squirt from some WD-40 and let it soak for a couple of hours, but it still stripped out. Any ideas on how to get the screw out without damaging the reservoir?
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My front left/back brake was locking up after about 25 miles of riding. This morning I decided to do cowpuc's brake master cleaning. Everything went pretty good till I checked the reservoir level. Popped out the filler bolt and all I see is the rubber diaphragm. Don't see any fluid at all. I just picked up this bike (86) and would really like to get this fixed. Will I need to remove the reservoir completely and if so how bad is that job? It looks pretty tight just to get the top cover off. Thanks
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09 RSV.....need to remove the righthand side mirror but afraid to put too much force on the nuts at the brake reservoir for fear of damaging something. It looks like there's three nuts at the bottom of the mirror stem. Can someone tell me which way the nut(s) need to be turned to remove the mirror bracket off the reservoir? Thanks....David
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The manual says to basically drain the reservoir, break the lines (make a big mess) and then pull the unit out. Does somebody have some "person info and maybe a few tricks"? My master "seems" fine but I've never had her open, the reservoir looks like junk (salt corrosion) and I just happened to come across a rebuild kit. It might have to be a winter project but I'm sure it's better to get the thing out and cleaned rather than wait until it "requires" it. The fluid has been flushed and still looks great but so did the clutch until I purged the line with air pressure and quite a bit of crystaline crud flew out. Thanks, Mike
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Does anyone know where I can find a left and a right threaded #10 , 1.25 thread , about 3/4" long stainless allen cap screw? These go where the mirrors would fit on the flange of an 87' VR at each reservoir on the handle bars. They hold down covers and other controls on the handlebars. Mine are stripped out. Thanks for the help!!