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Showing results for tags 'replaced'.
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Last fall ,I replaced my rear breaks on my 05 RSV .(with 17,000 miles on it.) At that time they were warn paper thin..So yesterday I decided to replace my fronts...(in the fall..dealer told me fronts were at 30 % left on pads).Well to my surprise when I pulled my pads, THEY LOOKED LIKE NEW...I never liked the way the front brakes felt or sounded..needed a lot of preasure to slow down or stop and was afraid I'd lock the front by using to much force ..The only thing I noticed is that the front brakes were matelic and the rears were different...I replaced them anyway..Did I mention the fronts would often squeel or groan on a hard stop.. IS this normal? Shouldn't those brakes have been shot by now? I always use my fronts for stopping..I find it odd that there was so much pad left..
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Took my wheels into Zednos today. I had avon venoms put on by Zednos last fall and with less than 200 km on them the sidewalls were cracking. Al at Zednos with no hesitation at all replaced them at no charge Even gave me the option to choose from different brands, at which point I opted to go back to the Dunlop 491 elite II which was what I had originaly had and was very pleased with. This is not the first time I have dealt with Zednos and I have always received excellent treatment from them. P/S apparantly Dunlop got a lot of complaints from the goldwing people when they stopped producing the 491 elite II and so are again producing them.
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I just noticed the Poll Widget is looking for numbers of rear shocks replaced on Ventures and list from 1 to 5 the numbers to vote. Heck I never replaced mine, but I have so few miles 194,xxx plus. Guess I don't get to vote.
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Replaced my stator with a high output one from Buckeye and all was well until yesterday morning I started it up and when I revved it up just a little I got a buzz (vibration) so I took the covers off again and the bolts are tight but I can still move the stator very little by hand so I am going to get some shorter bolts to see if that helps. Could not see any places where anything made contact.
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New starter clutch and kit installed NO FIX
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Still same problem...1/2 turn and zing............. Still will not start. I replaced the sprag kit but not the idler gear. It has some wear barely to the touch. FIXED!!! replaced the idler gear and does great now. -
I need help BIG TIME. I replaced all my dash lights with LED bulbs. I was going to take a pix of my dash & noticed that the lights are all out. I tested the LEDs & they work elsewhere. I replaced one with the oem bulb & there is no power. My headlight IS working though. Is there a fuse that I am overlooking?? I gotta get this fixed tomorrow I have a meet & eat on saturday!
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anyone replaced their bar lights with HID's? if so who do you recommend them from?
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Ive got a 1984 1300 voyager that is having overheat problems. Ive flushed the system, replaced the thermostat. any help will be greatly appreaceted.
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My son has a Dodge Caravan. 03 with 3.8 engine. He said it had been missing some. He is one of those that keeps driving as long as it will go. Thing is he started it the other morning and it ran for a short time and quit. It will crank but no start. He checked fuses and replaced Coil Pack. ( I ain't got a clue why) Anyway it cranks but no start. He claims no fire. 1st place to look? He wants to borrow my Ranger and those Varmits of his will trash the interior and outside given time. HELP!!! You know I can't say NO!
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I got the 91 Voyager looking and running good needs more work but it kicks but, I am gonna sell my 86 VR if anyone is interested. IO replaced the windshield, mirrors left side fairing that I found that had some damage from a garage fire but was better than the one that was on there, synced the carbs and found split vacuum lines I fixed, replaced the crash bars and put new highway pegs on and kinda cleaned it up. I went for a nice 90 mile ride this morning and it rides greats expert for the cruise that works intermittent. I also put a Butler mug on it. I don't like the floorboards that are on my VR I would rather have the pegs like on this voyager.
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My 1986 Venture is showing a fault message "E4" on the screen. I cannot adjust the air pressure any more. I replaced the pressure sensor under the trunk already and I replaced the whole control unit in the dashboard. That fault message is still there. Anybody out there having an idea what has to be done or what part of the system is gone bad?
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Replaced my rear shock today took about 90 mins (gotta love air tools) figured out a couple of things and thought I would share. I did not remove the rear tire I did everything through the sides. 1. If you put a quarter inch shim between the Carbon One adapter and the frame it gives you plenty of clearance to pull out the leveling links bolt. 2. Needle nose vice grips are great for pulling out the top bolt and putting it back in. 3. A floor jack under the rear tire will give you control of the tension and makes it real easy to slide the bolts back in.
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New to posting on this site, but have been researching since last year. Lots of information and help to take in. I have a 88 VR that has served me well for many years. Now, I'm at a point where I may call it quits. I was unable to ride for a whole summer (2010) due to health problems. The VR had been winterized and parked inside. I tried to fire it up spring of 2011 and would not run. Fuel looked like thick/dark apple cider. Drained fuel, flushed fuel tank, replaced fuel filter and filled the tank. At this point the bike barley ran. Pulled the carbs and cleaned following the write ups. No change. Slides did not seem to move, replaced diaphrams. No changed. Now for the expensive part. Tried to find someone to work on it. Only one place in town would touch it. They did a "carb Job" and said it ran great. Picked up the bike and it ran that was about it. No power, bad fuel milage (22 HWY @60), and bike surged on the HWY. Rode it for a week hoping it would come out of it. Only option was to take it back. Two weeks later, picked it up with a pick up coil replaced and a ton of labor hours. Surge on Hwy gone and barley runs. Bike acts like it is bogged down until RPM reaches about 6000. Then it runs like it use to. Tons of power and sounds awesome. Sorry for being long winded but wanted to offer as much info as I could. Any help or ideas would be great. Thanks for your time. Bill
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I rebuilt the front forks and swapped out the mushy stock springs with Progressives. Instead of using the supplied PVC spacer, I used the stock spacer/piston (with a new O-Ring). I also replaced the damper washers (two wavy and one flat per shock), upper and lower bushings, fork seals and plate seats (which btw have been discontinued....), fork cap O-Rings, EAND O-Rings, and air manifold O-Rings. Also mounted a new rear tire, replaced all 6 brake pads, wired the bike for trailer lights on my Voyager kit, lubed the rear shock links, replaced the windshield, repaired the left saddle bag (fiber glassed some cracks...), replaced the stock H4 Halogen head lamp with a Silver Star H4, lubed all the cables, replaced the front chrome trim moldings, re-charged the Class desiccant, replaced the CLASS manifold O-Rings, and put dielectric grease into every connector I could find.... Took the bike out for a check ride this afternoon, and man is it SWEET!!! Rides like a new bike now. Got back to the house to put the Voyager kit on and that's when the rain started. Got just enough rain to make the roads (and my new back yard) a mess, so we didn't get to ride this evening. Tomorrow should be a good day to ride, so color us GONE!!!!
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Now I know what you guys are talking about when you say you "miss" second gear. I just finished doing the second gear repair on my 83 and wow, it's a real treat being able to get on the throttle hard in second without having to worry about it popping out even under mild acceleration. All in all the repair went well but I do admit I was a bit baffled when I had the engine ready to come out and just could not figure out which direction it needed to go to get out of the frame. After considerable trial and error, I found that the front of the engine has to come up and then forward to clear the output shaft all while giving it a twist to the right. Likewise, going back in, the procedure in reverse worked great. Once on the bench the cases split apart nicely and the problem was the worn thrust washers. While I had it opened up took advange of all the recommendations on this site and replaced all the o-rings and seals that had been breached and I had the gears undercut to prevent slippage under load. Naturally, I replaced the thrust washers, the washer that goes behind them and shift fork #1. While I was not sure that my shift fork was bent, I replaced it anyway and I noticed that the new one was a beefier design. The parts, including all the gaskets came to about $175.00. I also installed the clutch kit from Skydoc_17 while I had it open, another $70.00 Reassembly was cut and dry with the only tricky part being the application of the Yamabond sealant and getting the shifting forks to line up when mating the cases. Once the engine was back in the frame (remember, go in high) I completed the installation and fired it up. After assuring that there were no leaks and everything was up to operating temperature, I took it for a quick spin and the gears worked perfectly. Thanks to all on this site for their wealth of information, help and support. I've added some photos from the build. 1. New thrust washers installed 2. Shift fork #1 3. Ready for lower case 4. Ready for lower case 5. Worn out thrust washers
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I have replaced the fork seals on my 86 venture with Yamaha seals, the right side went together with no problems, the left seal leaked like a fountain. I have replaced it again and there is still a leak however not as bad. just seeping insteading of a steady steam. I can not figure out what I am doing wrong.
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O.K. folks, I am not a Venture owner, my son is. He bought an 84 XVZ 12 DL. Has complained about high speed stability from day one. I just returned from a short ride (about 75 mph) on I 75. The bike feels as though it's riding on rain grooves or a draw bridge grate at these speeds. I wouldn't take a long distance trip on this motorcycle if you paid me. We need some help,,, Please! A bit of background. Both my son and I are long time performance auto mechanics. Rob just mounted a set of Shenco Tour Master tires. Re- packed/ replaced wheel bearings, replaced brake rotors, removed and greased final drive splines, checked and adjusted steering head bearings ( set with a very slight drag with wheel off ground). We've checked swing arm bearings (no play) and I went over the rear frame with a flashlight looking for cracks (yes, I had my glasses on). The only way he'll ride is with the rear tire at 45 lbs. the front at 37. Though keeping the tires over inflated (my opinion) helps, this thing is almost scary. My Eleven is more stable over bridge grates. What do we do/ look for? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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I am working on a friends 98 Harley 1200 Sportster. It runs descent cold but as it warms it starts to backfire through the carburetor and the tail pipe. It acts like it is starving for fuel but I know it is getting fuel. I have replaced the coils with known good coils but still the same thing. Has anyone had this problem before? I know this is not a Harley forum but I need some help on this one. Thank you,,,
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Any one ever replace a clutch line ?? any thing special to be aware of?? Foundm a leak in mine thought it was the slavce cylinder (lost the clutch) but line leaking never replaced one and can't find any thing specific on it but seams pretty straight forward.
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:whistling:I came off the money yesterday and replaced the original battery that came new in my 04 Silverado. I just realized it had been in there for 8 years and still cranking.Just begining to notice slow turnovers in cold weather so I replaced it. I want to be ready. You never know when one might hit the buy it now button on ebay and have to make a trip somewhere after a good First Gen. Like Baltimore,Florida,Arkansas,North Carolina, Maine, Pittsburg, Michigan etc.
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I'm looking at buying a home with cedar shakes, they are at least 14 years old. They do have some moss going on them but other then that they look good. When should they be replaced? I live in Minnesota.
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My bike has been in the shop since I think 11/16/11 had to have a water leak fixed a couple of speakers replaced and the cassette deck replaced . Everything has been done for a couple of weeks EXCEPT for getting the new tape deck back from Clarion haven't been able to ride but I'm ready to have my baby back in the stable are they always this slow dealer says he is just waiting on them. Anyway to light a fire under there A**.
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I dont post often, but its not because I'm shy... I just haven't had the ability to get on the net very often, until just recently that is. Now I log on daily from here and make more plans to upgrade my "finished VR" Right now at home there are several boxes with more parts.... Someone told me a while ago that I would never "finish my ride" They don't know how right they were. Almost everything done to this ride, i got the idea or the information I needed from this forum. Brief history of my 1986 Venture Royale I purchased this from a younger kid in 2000. The bike had 36,000 miles on it and ran fine but was beat up from being dropped and abused. Since then I have completely stripped it down to the frame, set valves, replaced and rebuilt the carbs, polished and cleaned and painted the engine parts. Replaced Chrome Removed the fuel tank and had it lined. replaced tires and brakes, rebuilt the master cylinders. Repaired various wiring cass system, and re soldered the computer in the dash. Added Jardine pipes. Added a gel battery. Replaced a lot of the plastic and repaired the rest. Repainted it in its current colors. I thought I was done.... I am gone a lot and this took several years to complete. Then I started reading here. Now sitting at home are the parts to upgrade the fuse box, progressive springs for the forks along with the upgrade fork brace. I purchased a new aftermarket CDI to install. I plan to upgrade the starter and cables. I am sure there is more I will find to do. Someday I may even get the chance to ride this thing. I think in the last two years it has about 18 miles put on it. Anyway, the reason for this post. THANK YOU! to everyone that helped even though you didn't realize it most of the time.!!! rjjammer
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I just purchase a 96 RS XVZ1300 and have noticed that the toe/heal shifter is physically loosening up from the post when shifting. I have pulled the whole assembly back to the tranny and cleaned/greased all the joints since it appears to have never been done. The washer/screw that secures the shifter to the post didn't look right so I replaced with hardware from BB. After all is said and done the thing is still loosening up? The shifter assy is a bit out of round but not too bad so I have not replaced it yet. Is this a known issue with these bikes? Anyone else experience this problem and if so what's the fix?