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Showing results for tags 'replace'.
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HELLO ALL I am on a trip and will look at this when we get back but just wanted to run this by everyone here to get some ideas. My gas gauge on the dash will blink on and off but not all the time. I think it might be the sending unit but not sure until I do sometesting. What are some other ideas out there. The rest of the dash is working just fine. Had the switch replace 4 months ago because the hole dash was blinking on and off and that fixed that but just the gas gauge doing it is a little strange . What do you think guys?????????????? Bikenut 2006 Yamaha Venture 32000 miles on her Alway garage kept or covered when parked :think: -
Well I have a little problem. I was bleeding out the front brakes and got one side to bleed out nice then moved to the other side. Well I cannot get it to bleed out. I get nothing from it when I squeeze the lever. Is there an easy way to fix this or should I replace the line. I will NOT ride without a front brake, four wheel boneheads make that WAY to dangerous. Shaun
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Well, Mine finally went after 30k miles on my 05.Its got oil all over the boot and the lower mount.I wonder how many here have had the shock replaced at least once, and how many have had it replace more than once. If you have had to replace your rear shock post a quik reply so maybe we can get a count. Just added some pics of what to look for for those that have not had this problem yet
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Brake Pad Replacement
utadventure posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I replaced tires today on my '86 and need to do brakes next. This is my question. Do you replace the pads with the calipers in place or do you remove them from the mount/rotors? Dave -
Hey guys! I need to replace my carb intake manifolds because they are cracked. I believe i have found the part, but im stupid with part numbers and all of that, so is this correct? 4XY-13586-01-00 YAMAHA JOINT, CARBURETOR 1
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Best thing since sliced bread. Took longer to installed the bleeders then to do the job. Here are a couple pics of how bad my master clutch looked like. Ended up having to use paper towels and Q-tips to clean the sludge out of there. the speed bleeders made this so easy to do. It also helps if your remove the number one cyl fin to replace the bleeder. Last change was seven years ago. (way to long) With the speed bleeders I will change once a year from now on. [ATTACH]72443[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72444[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72445[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72446[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72447[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]72448[/ATTACH]
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On my last road trip, my right lower wind deflector bracket broke on my 99 RSV. I didn't realize how well they work until I had to go without them. I've tried brazing and welding and now I am ready to just replace it. Does anyone have one laying around that you would be willing to part with or know where I can get one other than the Yamadealer.
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OK, so upon uncovering my bike at work today for the ride home, I raised the antenna up and tightened the collar nut..............or at least tried to. It's stripped out now. Can't figure out why, it's only 24 years old. Anyhow, I've heard (but have never tried) that a CB radio antenna in place of the OE AM/FM antenna works far better as an AM/FM antenna that the OE stick does. So, I'm going to set myself to install a CB antenna. BUT! I'd like to have the option of either being able to fold it down like I currently do or at least have some kind of a quick disconnect so I can lay it across the bike when I cover it up. Anyone know if such a mount exists? -
I am going to replace my clutch. I know they are not that expensive, but do I have to replace the steel plates as well as the friction plates? Is Barnett much better? I am just planning to go with stock. Thanks, Fred
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Is there any truth to a helmet being unsafe after it is 4 years old? Was at a dealers today buying a shield and when I told him the helmet was 6 years old he said it was time to replace it and showed me a card attached to a new helmet that said safe life of 4 years. I bought a shield because my helmet seems fine and I have an intercom in it and not looking to replace it. It did get me thinking though. So, what's the scoop, anything to it or is it a company scam?
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Ive got a Yamaha light bar on my 2005 RSTD. One of the driving lights got busted in it. Anyone know of an aftermarket 4 1/2" sealed beam light or replacement light I can replace it with? Yamaha said they're on back order till Oct ? Cheers, Steve
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I have a new rear shock on order and need to find someone who has replaced thiers to get tips and pointers on how to replace it. What to remove and what not to remove. Any help would be great. John
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Intereted in someone ho has triked their 2nd gen venture. My shoc has started dripping a little oil so i know it is not long before i need to replace it. If you have one let me know. Thanks
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Is this battery still the best choice? The connector looks like a side mount. My OEM is a top mount. I can get one locally from East Penn for $165cdn. I need to replace my battery and research on here seems to point to the Deka as the best choice, mind you most of the info is a few years old. Thanks.
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Does anyone have a CB for a first gen they don't need. I need one to replace a bad one.
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Our headsets have been intermittant (at best) for some time now...yesterday's ride they were unusable. What is the best way to have them repaired...take to dealer, or where? Or, should we just replace them...if so, with what?
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I am want to replace the antenna. It has a cb antenna on it(its big and white) and want to put one like on the goldwings. ive look at a goldwing today and it looks like i will have to change the mount and the cable. my bike does not have a cb. and it has a jvc cassett radio. i am wanting to replace it to. any pointers are leads would be great.
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Today I picked up DenDen's 83 Standard. Some folks here know how well he took care of this bike. He wanted to part ways with the bike since he no longer rides so he made me a deal I couldn't refuse. There's some work to be done of course since it hasn't been on the road in about 4 years. maybe more, but that bike is sure in very good shape for a 29 year old. There's no broken plastic except for one tab on a side panel which should be easy to fix since the tab is there. Mechanically I'll need to fix a water leak somewhere below the radiator, rebuild the forks, & either rebuild the rear master cylinder or replace it, & replace a 8 year old battery. As far as I know at this point those are the things needing attention. Got a few extra parts he tossed in as well. I don't expect to put it on the road till spring so during the next few months & winter I'll be going over this bike bringing the old girl back to pristine condition once again. Larry
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First of all, if anyone has anything to add, please do. I am a shade tree mechanic. These things are nice to have to do this in hot weather; A garage, a fan, an air conditioner. I am blessed to have these, so I took the time to take some pictures as I did this. Hope it helps someone else. Time frame; 45 minutes to complete. Tools needed; A 4 mm allen head socket or allen wrench. A short 3" extension. A ratchet. A flat screw driver. A pair of needle nose pliers. A 3/4 " wide wood chisel or some tool of this nature to pry with. #1 . Remove the right side hard bag using the ratchet and extension and 4 mm allen head socket. There are 4 allen head bolts that hold this. There is one that is longer than the others and has a chrome spacer between the mount and hard bag. #2 . Remove the plastic cover from the top of the brake caliper with the flat screw driver. It just pops right off. #3 . Locate and remove the small clips that are through the pins in the caliper and brake pads. Rotate them around to face up and carefully pull them right out with the needle nose pliers. #4 . Next remove the two pins with the needle nose pliers, ( twist them as you pull them out). Remove one and then the other being careful of the flat spring type holder thingy. #5 . Remove the flat spring keeper thingy from atop the brake pads. Pay attention as to how it comes off and lay it aside that way. #6 . Using the needle nose pliers, remove the old pads and look closely at the inside (wheel side pad). If it is less than 1/8" replace pads. Some pads are wore more on the rear end of the pad (thinner).You can switch the inside pad to the out side and get 2000 to 3000 more miles out of them if you have 1/8 " left. My bike had 13,800 mile and where less than 1/8 " material left on inside pad, so new pads where installed. Outside pad compared to new> Inside pad compared to new> #7 . If you are replacing the pads, you will need to pry the brake piston back in to allow room for the new pads ( I used - EBC brand FA-123HH brake pads ). I used the 3/4" wood chisel to pry the pistons in because it has a short handle and was wide and easy to get into the area. Per SilverT; Clean the pins before you replace them, they may require a bit of "buffing up" with either emery paper or a buffing wheel on your drill. Clean the " thingy" before you replace it. Coat the pins with brake lubricant before you replace them. Coat the back side of the pads and the outer edges where they will rub against the caliper and other stationary metal parts with brake lubricant. Per RSTDdog; In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid. Someone said that it is possible to clean the piston with a Q-tip and some break fluid before pushing back. Also it has been mentioned that a 42 thousand washer be placed between the frame and caliper to line the caliper up to equalize/a-line the inside pad wear. I have not researched this and I am only mentioning here for someone else to search. #8 . Using the needle nose pliers, put the new pads in place with the pin holes up. Being careful to put them in with the wear material toward the rotor. There is no difference in the two pads,they are the same. #9 . Replace one pin through the break pads and into the rotor. Now put the spring type holder thingy in under the one pin. Now the tricky part. Put the second pin through the break pads and through the spring type holder thingy and into the rotor, all at the same. Easy though... #1 0. Now replace the small clips into and through the small holes in the pins as before. I turned the small clips up and to the left and right. Make sure you get these in correctly (half way point). You would not want these coming out. #1 1. Now work the rear brakes and get the pads kinda seated into place. Will feel kinda spongy at first pump or two. I made sure my rear breaks worked and released by pushing bike forward and back a couple times. #1 2. Replace/snap plastic cover back into place. #1 3. Replace the hard bag with the four 4 mm allen head bolts. Remember the long one goes into the rear and side next to wheel and through the chrome spacer. Also make sure the rubber bushings and washers are on the hard bag (bottom and side). Most of the time they will stay in place if you are careful. #1 4. Make notes of your mileage and date in your owners manual and also keep your receipts to proof any warranty issues. Also for a reference/reminder as to when you need to replace again and what type/brand to use. Helpers are good and I had my little boys help. Fuzzy
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Can someone tell me if its ok to replace my grips with regular grips and take the weights off what will happen
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hi. i need to replace my stator. there are so many vendors on ebay. which ones have you used? thanks. -
I've checked the Classifieds, and didn't find anything there, but does anyone know of a good site to check for replacement lower wind deflectors? On my recent trip to DC, one of the brackets broke and I lost one somewhere along the line, and need to replace it, but given the condition of the other one, I figure I'd replace both. I can get the replacement mounting bracket fairly cheap from Yamaha, but the deflectors are a little pricy. Thanks.
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My speedo and rpm gauge lenses are hazy and there is a crack in the rpm gauge. Is there a way to replace the clear plastic lenses without replacing the whole gauge unit?
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How do you remove the cover for the rear speakers...imm trying to replace them!
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I need to replace my engine guards and saddlebag guards. I can't find the right part numbers. All I can find is beat-up take-offs. I'd prefer to not replace crash-damaged parts with scraped up guards. What other options do I have? Baron Customs? Someone triked a bike and has new saddlebag guards? Ideas? Dave
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