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Showing results for tags 'removed'.
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Want to get an 8x20 toyhauler and haul my RSV. I'm looking for advice on a wheel chock for the front tire. I'd like something I can secure to the floor somehow to keep it from sliding, but when removed I don't want a big bracket sitting there that I constantly stub my toe on! Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks...JR
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'63 t-bird turn signal arm in man's arm from accident 50 years ago just removed. Turn Signal From 1963 Car Wreck Removed From Illinois Man's Arm - NBC News
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I'm looking at a used '06 Royal Star.... I've always been a fan of the Venture line, ever since they came out in '83. But what really DOESN'T do it for me is that fugly shroud that goes over the air intakes and blocks air across the legs. My question is: can that gawd-awful thing be removed without jacking up something else or affecting the engine intake? Like does it also support something else, etc.? Thanks to any and all.
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Removed lower fairings repositioned components installed highway bars and rad chrome Removed and blocked AIS complete Installing VMAx rear end Installed Dyna 3000 ign unit on upper curve Lowered ft end 1" and rear 1/2 inch (I'm inseam challenged) Installed and tuned Supertrapp exhaust Installed 4 single KN filters and installing Ivan's jet kit Custom paint LED headlamp and passing lamps Changed out Cassette deck for a power distribution unit and aux input New Avon rear and smaller Avon front tire
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Here I go... New to me Trike & now I need to Check it over, setup & add-ons: 1) Get out the Mecury Carb-Sync - checked OK - no need to adjust 2) removed stock ignition & replaced with DynaTek 3000 - set on performance profile 3 with red line of 7,500 rpm 3) removed stock clutch pressure plate - installed/converted to Barnett Clutch Spring Conversion plate (good old purple) 4) checked out HID headlight kit - decided against it 5) ordered Signal Dynamics Diamond Star headlight modulator 6) ordered Diamond Star Plug & Play harness 7) ordered Hella H4 100/80 Halon watt bulb for headlight 8) ordered qty.4 NGK DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plugs 9) one passing lamp failed so I checked out converting to lens & H3 Halogen bulbs - decided against it & needed rewiring 10) ordered qty.2 Passing Lamp Bulbs - Bulbrite HX36PAR36WFL 36-Watt Halogen/Xenon Sealed Beam PAR36 10) ordered 5-layer felt lined Trike cover - using/covering Trike with my old cover used on my Z4 11) ordered custom license plate GhostR Now I'm preparing to move add-ons from old bike to new bike when these parts get in & I have a nice weather day. I'll continue this as I progress. JohnB
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Does the front wheel have to be removed to lower the front end (2008 venture)?
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From what material and what method do you use to make a mold to make a replacement tab ... those tabs that, for example, hold the side covers on on a 1st gen.?? I'm thinking a mold where you'd pour the Plastex into and then once hardened, the mold could be either simply removed (such as a 2-piece mold) or just broken off. Pics and instructions would be great... do we already have this somewhere???
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The speedometer needle on my 1983 Venture Royale is sticking. When I purchased the bike the speedometer inner cable had been removed by the owner. He said the last time he rode it the speedometer stuck and his mechanic told him to remove the cable to prevent any internal damage. He bought another bike and put the Venture up for sale and never had the speedometer fixed. I removed the speedometer today and everything appears intact to my untrained eye. I can moved the needle back to zero and it will spring back to 90 mph as soon as I let it go. It is in remarkably good and clean condition on the inside. Hate to just buy a used working speedometer from ebay if there is anything to be done to fix this one. Any ideas on what the problem could be? I hate to just replace a perfectly good looking instrument.http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o196/TSM01/IMAG0134.jpg
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It all started innocently enough. The aluminum crank case covers look bad, so I removed them to polish them up, while I was at sea. I removed the water pump cover, clutch cover, plus the small rear one on the left side (transmission?). I couldn’t get the large front one (stator?) off at the time. While I was waiting for the gaskets to come in, I worked on the large cover. When I finally removed it a small gear fell out. I was able to put it back, hope it isn’t supposed to be in a certain way. I went to remove the screws holding the wires to the cover but no luck. I have the right size screwdriver, but they won’t move. I stopped before I stripped the heads, but I think it won’t take much force before they are striped. What is the easiest way to get these screws out? I can’t get the cover to my workbench, as it is still attached to the bike by the wires. It is free to move around as I try to break the screws free. I tried hammering on the screwdriver while twisting, but was getting nowhere. Help I don't know where to go from here. Bill
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I had my Stebel horn mounted on the right side in the stock location for over a year. Now that I have a sidecar, I would like my sons hearing to stay better than mine, so I removed the horn. Has anyone found a good mounting location on the left side of the motorcycle? -
I have a 2006 RSV with 43,133 miles. Has anyone installed any type of aftemarket radio and or radio/amp? My amp is toasted and the cost for a new one is $1,300. I found several on ebay for around $300. I dont use the CB, I have removed the cassette deck, added a port for my iphone in the faring, and I also removed my plugs for the intercom. Basically all I use are the radio and Aux for my iphone. I have found several marine grade radio's with built in amps etc....just wondering if anyone might have some suggestions on aftermarket stuff.
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Who would of thunk? The other day the LEO's and Humane Society folks removed snakes from an Omaha family home. Not pets by my standards but poisonous ones. So far they have over 30 of them including 18 rattesnakes, 6 cobras, a few vipers and even a mamba. They are still working on identifying several others that they have no idea of what they are. They found tanks all over the house and even in the childrens rooms. So the snakes got removed and he got cited by the Humane Socitety for no permit for non-domestic animals. But the LEO's are looking at him has he has previous charges for terroristic threats and gun violations. Ya gotta wonder about folks sometimes. Guess who ain't a big fan of snakes? Mike
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Just picked up my project for next winter. A true barn find. 1975 Moto Guzzi 850T with 17k miles. Motor turns freely, inside of tank is in OK condition, no dents in tank, forks are straight, frame is solid and rust free, and seat is in good shape. PO put on a Windjammer which is going to have to go. Bought if from a guy that had it stored in his shed for over 10 years. It was his father's who passed in 2001. He was going to get it running but didn't have any time (or ability). It was last started in 2002 or 2003. Will need: Master brake cylinder rebuild Airbox replacement (has pods now) centerstand repair saddle bags either removed or repaired Windjammer removed and headlight moved back to forks With the removal of the fairing, will need turn signals All rubber (grips, peg covers, tires) Repaint and stripe (leaking MC got brake fluid on tank) Replace throttle cables and likely clutch cable Clutch handle NOS exhaust (current is home fabbed) Wish me luck. RR
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Been toying with the idea of a shorter windshield for awhile now since I didn't win the F4 with a vent. Already had gone to a short wide 13 1/2 " which I like but since it warming up so quick wanted to try a little shorter. So I dug out my old stock shield after reading some threads to day and wacked it off down to 10 1/2". Everything went as planned as far as the cutting and sanding but somethings I did notice. I used masking tape instead of the duct and after final cleanup I noticed that in several places where the masking tape was all the scratches were gone, assuming this had removed film on shield,but heck it was clear. So I took the scrap piece I cut off and reapplied masking tape even warmed with a heat gun trying to find away to remove the rest of the film but no luck. Then I used Meguires scratch x by hand and then with 6" buffer did reduce some of the haziness but not the film sure didn't make it any worse. Does anyone know of way to remove all of the film if I could do that i would have a clear shield. If it can't be removed has anyone added tint like to have it smoked out for the summer months. Think it will be fine for short trips this summer but going to be to much buffeting for the wife on the long hauls. But it looks cool.
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I know there are dozens of carb threads, but I'm dealing with a hardly running bike, so I'm trying to narrow it down as much as I can. I bought this bike last year from a friend who never had it running and had it in pieces. I put it mostly back together and replaced the battery and started to try to get it running. It will run with the choke on, but will die if you blip the throttle. You can slowly start winding the throttle more and more until you get it to keep reving up but it never runs right. I ran some B12 carb cleaner through the system, but without being able to ride it, I can't tell if it is helping or not. I removed and plugged off the vacuum chamber and as far as I can tell the carb boots are ok. I pulled the carbs off and removed floats, bowls and diaphrams, and cleaned the bejeebus out of them. This is when I got it running with the choke on.
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I have no use for audio on a motorcycle. In the 4.5 years I've owned this RSV, the audio system has hardly been used. Then, I got to wondering what effect removal of those several lbs of sprung weight, front and rear, but especially that which is mounted up high in the faring, would have on this very-top-heavy beast. I spent a day pulling it all off. I even removed the unused CB unit from under the trunk. I removed both antennae, and their cables. I removed the tape deck, the radio/controller, all four speakers, and the handlebar controller. The first improvement was noticeable immediately: The bike looks a lot nicer now. Those two antennae with their clunky mounts really deduct eye candy points. They also add several lbs of weight, and the antennae themselves are a source of noise and wind drag. Now, more of the svelte curves of the RSV are able to show forth. This is a nice-looking motorcycle. But the major improvement is in how the front end feels when maneuvering around in tight spots, like parking. Hard to believe removal of 5 lbs or so of high-mounted sprung mass from the faring would make the front end feel so much lighter. But it does. Now, what to do with all those bits?
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Since I don't use my audio equipment, this afternoon I got busy yanking some of my 93 apart (multiple things are going on at once). I've got the amp equipment removed. No problems there. This is what I'm thinking of doing. The mute switch on the handlebar audio controls (what IS that box called, anyway?) is a 2-position simple on/off switch. When I convert my headlight to HID, that switch would function nicely as my on/off control for the headlight, eh? So I traced the wire routing and got that whole box and connector removed from the bike and now it sits on the bench. Buuuttt.... there doesn't seem to be an easy way of disassembling the thing further than where I've got it now (see photo), and I have no idea which wires go to which switching devices in there. I looked for other threads concerning this, but I can't seem to find anything quite this detailed. I don't suppose any of our long term members have been down this road before and perhaps somebody has a pinout of this whole switch control? Dingy? Dingy? DDDIIINNNGGGYYY??????? -
removed
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Some of you knew our oldest daughter, Dorothea, 41, one husband and 5 kids, was diagnosed with kidney cancer a short while ago. I forgot to ask for prayer at that time, but today she went through a successful operation to have one kidney removed and our prayers have been answered. So far all is well and she seems to be well, our requests have been answered once again. Sure good to know we are in the Fathers hands!!
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Like i said in my previous post, gauge overlays came in. today, while some BORING football was on ( Michigan doesnt play till 330), i decided to give it a whirl. heres what i did.... i removed the cluster. took out message center, to check for solder breaks. unscrewed the 6 screws holding the black faceplate on to expose gauges. cleaned gauges with dustfree cloth. removed overlays and spread out on clean work surface. carefully removed tach overlay and sprayed with enclosed solution (soapy water). punched out tiny hole where needle stop is with a paperclip. carefully slid overlay over gauge face and aligned using a maglite. used enclosed squeegee to remove bubbles. voila!! did this on temp, volt, and speedo. speedo didnt quite line up right for my 83vr. off by 5mph. dont care, these look sweet!!! its really made for 86-94, skydoc sent them a cluster. thanks earl! reassembled cluster. these were custom made for our forum!! please show your support and get a great custom look! price is 19.99 for white. a dozen other colors are available. check out their site at www.whitegauges.net. it was sooooo easy that im getting a set for my car too! i also ordered some carbon fiber sheet to upgrade the look of the instrument pod itself. writeup to follow soon. GO BLUE! took less than an hour! -
Is there anything to do to the stock mufflers to get some noise or can the baffles be removed and how hard is it
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Sorry about any redundancy on this subject but if I don't ask, I don't know. I'm a new venture owner and trying to absorb as much info as possible. Just obtained HD mufflers with the following part #'s 65591-07 and 65592-07. I seem to remember reading something about not using the the ones ending in 07. Can someone shed some light on this for me. Is it related to having cats and if so, would I still be able to use them if I removed the cat. Thanks, Al
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hey everybody! trying to get ahold of skydoc, to see if he has some progressives. where is the install with photos? also, has anyone removed anti-dives with this install? how about some pics please........i said please......thanks a bunch, this forum is PRICELESS!
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I have removed the right side oil seal, bearing and collar. I removed the drive pin assembly and oil seal on the left side. The bearing on the left side appears to be removed toward the right, is this correct and what do you use to drive it out. I have a Tusk bearing puller but this bearing cannot be remove toward the left due to burrs inside the wheel. The only way it could have been installed is through the right side.:think: -
Is this any good. The final drive is out of my 91 vr and when I changed the gear oil it had metal flakes in the oil . WHen I removed and replaced it the drive shaft pulled out and better minds than mine says that I had broken the pinion shaft.. NOt sure if its any good as far as a repair . Or if the drive shaft can be removed from the shaft its incased in. Help please as I would hate to throw this away if it would be of some use to another person, or is it a paper weight now? David
