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Showing results for tags 'pumps'.
Found 8 results
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How do I know if I have a bad rear shock?
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
I'd like to know how do I know if I have a bad rear shock. When I ride with a passenger it seems to bottom out easily. But I'm 300 lbs. & my wife weighs about 140 lbs. So I realize there is some weight on there. I have one of those hand pumps and I give it a few pumps before we both ride, but it seems we still bottom out easily. When I ride alone it takes a pretty extreme bump to make me bottom out. -
I have a friend that has a 1200 Goldwing and he has problem bleeding his rear brakes. He Bleeds some of the fluid, fills the fluid up and closes the bleed valve and resourivore lid. When he pumps the rear brake peddle he has no break pressure. The break peddle goes all the way to the bottom with several pumps. Does it over again with the same result. Any suggestion?
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well not dead, just intermittent. I'd noticed the motor getting a little balky on cold starts. Then it would not run at all unless I rapped on the pump body with a tool, and the plastic end of the pump was getting piping hot. I bypassed the pump and approached the dealer shop guy about the warranty. He said I'd have to bring the bike in and leave it. I rarely do anything like that! Then I remembered seeing an article here about the Mr. Gasket 42S. Thanks to all who contributed to that information. I got the 42S installed pretty easily, and as far as I can tell it pumps fine. I notice it passes fuel even when it is unplugged. That means I'll have to get used to using the petcock. Thanks again to all who took the time to post info and photos. What a treasure this board is!
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anyone have a writeup on how to add fitting to the hose that attach to the pumps? my class is shot, bike is practically riding on the fender. -
any one used this,have had to replace water pumps on three of my veh this last yr
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Just starting this thread - I'll add more as I find it . . . If you are aware of any other alternatives to expensive factory parts, especially if you have used one yourself and had satisfactory results, please message one of the moderators to have the information added here. Where a particular part has a related Tech Library article, that link is the last one. Clutch - More of an upgrade than just a replacement, PCW Racing sells a stronger spring and an upgrade kit at very reasonable prices. Their link is below, but at last check they didn't have on-line ordering. Another option (and more expensive) is the Barnett pressure plate. Most slipping clutches on the 2nd Gens can be completely fixed with just the stronger springs - no need to replace the friction or steel plates. http://www.pcwracing.net/ - call them at 518-346-7203 and tell them you want the spring upgrade kit for a Royal Star Venture http://www.barnettclutches.com/ Clutch Upgrade - VentureRider.Org Coils - really should be a number of alternatives here, but I do not have any details. Fuel Pump - Most external low pressure/low volume fuel pumps should work - stock pump has a 3 PSI rating and costs over $200. Look for a solid state pump sold for old VWs or jeeps. Here are a couple of links for replacement pumps under $50: Autozone 4-7 PSI NOTE: since this pump is double the pressure of the stock pump, I would not use it unless I could not find any other. Autozone 2-3 1/2 PSI JCW 1 1/2-4 PSI JCW 1 1/2-3 1/2 PSI http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/42S/10002/-1 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php Parts 40105 and 40171 https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_6101051_0067330545&An=0 General note on available pumps - most (probably all) of these pumps are Facet brand fuel pumps, and the correct Facet part number is 42S (also goes by 40105). Facet has recently replaced their old cube pumps with new Posi-Flo pumps, and the correct part number for the Posi-Flo is 04S (also goes by 60104). Either part number may be preceded by "PRO" or "FEP". Also note that the 40171 pump is the ONLY one that has both a check valve and positive shutoff, so it would be the best choice for use on a motorcycle that does not have an automatic fuel shutoff when the engine is off (such as ours). All of the other pumps allow fuel to flow even when the power is off, so a leaking float valve could lead to engine damage if the petcock is left on. Fuel filter - http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MGD0/33011.oap?pt=N1219&ppt=C0262 - You need one with at least a 5/16" connection. Any universal filter will work if you just want to relocate it, but this one will actually fit perfectly in place of the original (and despite what you may have heard, it is NOT that difficult to change! Oil filter - There are lots of filters available; instead of trying to list them all, here is a link to a cross reference (we use Type 5 - the filters are at the bottom), along with several other links for information on filter quality: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/index.shtml Paint - Not many options here other than ColorRite (www.colorrite.com), or have it matched by a professional paint shop. I strongly recommend the paint shop and that you avoid ColorRite (see my product report here:http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36321&highlight=paint) Rear Shock - The only alternative is from Works Performance - costs more than stock, but it is rebuildable, where the stock one is just trash when it goes out. One source for the Works Performance shock is: www.buckeyeperformance.com Thermostat - Should be an automotive cross reference, but we do not have one confirmed yet. Front Turn Signal bulbs - Starting in 2005 Yamahaha went to weird 3-prong bulbs - but no need to waste your money on them. Just buy a standard 1157 and remove the lower pin! The remaining high pin is indexed correctly to install the bulb with the correct filament connections (low for running light, bright for turn), and it will stay in place forever. The pin is often easily removed by simply prying on it with a pcket knife, or use a file, or simply rub it on the cement curb. Valve shims - Any 25mm shims should work. Here is a link to a Sudco shim kit that lists lots of different bikes that use the same shims: http://www.sudco.com/25valveshims.html Valve Adjustment - VentureRider.Org Valve shim tool - 35-3462 .... $38 from http://www.justatv.com/pages/valve_shim_tools/valve_shim_tools.htm Wheel Bearings - Check the existing bearing - it will probably have a standard number on it that any bearing shop can cross. Be sure to buy only name brand bearings, such as SKF, Timken, Federal Mogul or NTN and get sealed bearings if that is what came out. You can save a couple of more bucks by getting bulk, un-boxed cheap Chinese bearings, but you won't like how fast they die! Front - 6004 (unverified), 2 each Rear -
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OK....we have people here that know something about a lot of things so decided to see if there are any lawn mower experts. The mower is a Snapper zero turn. It uses Hydro-Gear pumps and motors for the drive. It is not an integrated transmission. There are two Hydro-Gear pumps, one for each side. The Hydro motors and not integrated into the pumps. There are hoses that go from the pumps to the motors. I was mowing a couple of weeks ago when suddenly the left lever seemed to lose pressure. It still works and I can use it but while you feel decent pressure on the right lever when you move it forward and backwards, the left lever has almost no feedback/pressure. It is also slow to respond. The left wheel does work in forward and reverse but doesn't seem to have much torque. On a long straight run, the steering seems to work OK but if I am turning on a hill or something, the left doesn't seem to have near enough torque. So far all I've done is change the Hydro filter and tried bleeding the system. Nothing has made any difference. Does it sound like a bad Hydro pump or the Hydro motor? Running or not running, the right side seems to have pressure when you move it back and forth but the left side has almost no resistance to moving. Also, whether it be the pump or the motor, can they be repaired? I tried looking up parts and/or exploded diagrams on line but all I've found is the complete units at about $450.00 each.
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Cant believe that im happy to be paying $3.70 a gal gas today....I also couldnt believe a line forming to the street too. I just went a few blocks further and found another station at the same price without anyone by the pumps. Wow, if it ever hits $3.00 a gal again I might just have a stroke.
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