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Showing results for tags 'power'.
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I have an 88 venture. The headlight is not working. From what I can tell the headlight power wire comes from the fuse to the starter switch on the right handle grip. From there it goes to the headlight. I am getting power from the fuse to the switch but nothing out. Is the starter switch a momentary switch that shuts the power off to the headlight when starting? Is there a way that I can clean the switch or something I can do with it. I took it apart and it looked alright to me. If not would it hurt anything to simply by pass the switch. I hate to get into doing thing like that but I have spent way to much on this bike and i am not spending anymore. I will sell it first. Thanks for any help Curtis
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Now sorry too post this long issue here. It's just about 3am here and I haven't had the greatest of days. It is Tuesday the 21 of June. Have received a lot of help from a different site called venturers dot org. You can search for Tach power there and a couple Pages in you will start to see my posts. Nickname iSpeedyG. If you do a YouTube search for Speedy G with Venture1 or Venture 1 you might come across about 9 videos of my hell. The final 2 "the day she ran" and the link I am posting below. Seems I have developed a new situation that maybe someone can help with. It's not normal to ask but I'm dead, exhausted, pissed and really in a need of something positive to happen if you think you can help please don't hesitate to reply or even call. Life has been a little trying lately bb when you get to my page you should be able to see venture video of my problems. I'm a tad bit overwhelmed at the moment.
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Hi everyone, Firstly just a short introduction, I live in the UK just purchased a 1990 Venture Royale XVZ1300, Cali import. Been riding 21 years, always been on sprts bikes but decided that I need to act more responsibly now I'm over 40 ha ha. Love the bike, fantastic fun to ride and so comfy.. however I have a problem. I had to buy a new battery, got the right one in the end 12v 20ah, then discovered that the reg/rec wasn't working, so at great expense ( VAT, and customs !!) , purchased a replacement one from the US. Fitted it to the bike, the problem is that when the bike is revved at 2000 rpm, with a tester on the battery terminals it is only showing 12.16 to 12.19v . There is power coming from the reg when the plug is tested, and it rises and falls when revved, there is also power coming from the stator... I always thought that when revved it should show around 14v ?. The battery never drops below 12v even when idling and the lights are on, brake operated etc etc. Is it different for the Venture Royale, or is there another problem somewhere else, and if so ...... any ideas ????? :icon_smile_question Thanks... and hello again
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The weather just got right to start back with my woodturning, got about 1/2 way thru a Marblewood bowl, shut the lathe off to check the work and now it will not start again. Fuse is good, power is good to the outlet. Switch is good, suspect the relay that I hear click in each time I power it up is bad, it is mounted to a circuit board so it is not like I can just swap it out, the lathe is a 4 year old Nova DRV with an electronic brain for controlling the speed and sensing overlaods and out of balance situations, so there is not much I can do with it until I get a Return Goods Authorization from Teknatool. I geuss they are still on holiday break because my online trouble ticket has gone untouched for about 3 days and phone calls to the engineering tech go straight to voice mail. I would go for a ride rathter than vent here, but it is raining, Drat the bad luck all around, at least I am not at work. Guess I wil just have to wait for the tech service department to come back from holiday. Just venting that is all.
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Since I have the rear end apart...decided to do some cleaning. 30 minutes later here is the result on one of my mufflers. Simple aluminum foil and muscle power...
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Hi All; My CB won’t turn on (no light) I have removed the rear trunk put the CB into the L/Saddle bag I cut I small grove in the side making sure no to pinch the wire. When I checked the plug that goes into the CB there is power in 2 holes. I had a amp installed by a radio shop in the front faring. Is it possible that they have cut into something that has to do with the power going into the CB switch on the handle bars. If yes, what can I do to fix it without going back to the radio shop. ???????????
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Bought a 12 Volt power adapter from Cycle Gear for 10 bucks and I think I will buy a couple more. I took the handle bar mount off and made the hole for the acc socket below the seat just a little bigger. For power I cut the factory plug off the acc wire, soldered them together and it works great. http://www.cyclegear.com/_static/webupload/730/2_web1007420_3.jpg http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/12_volt_power_adapter/web1007420#pr-header-web1007420
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No, I don't mean working on carbs. I recently came into possession of a (used) MP3 player. Now, I still like vinyl and 8 tracks. This little trinket had a bunch of music in it, about 140 songs, none of which was to my liking. I discovered that I could plug it in to a USB port and figured out how to delete the stuff that was on it. I have now "ripped" two of my CD's onto the computer and I'm gradually learning to "sync" them onto the MP3 player. This may not seem like much to many of you, I know there are some of you to whom this kind of technology is like second nature. But when I can play "my" music on the GL1800 using a little gadget not much bigger than my thumb, I figure I've made a giant leap towards entering the 21st century. No cassette player or CD player. What I don't know is, do I have to carry a supply of AAA batteries to power this thing, or is there some way of running it on the power from the bike?
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Changing 2nd Gen Speakers From what the guys posted last week about the Polk's I ordered two of them and I think they are great sounding! Two Summers ago I changed the stock speakers to Pioneer TS-G10400's the speakers are OK but just not there yet. I then added bass blockers and it helped. now with the blockers added to the new Polk's (front only) Moocho better. The Polk's can handle a little more power (amp in trunk) so combined with the bass blockers it really sounds great even with-out the fairing on the bike. That is the problem with the fronts.. not like the rear on the RSV. (in a pod un-cased) sound much better. So I left the Pioneers in the rear for now. Here are some pics of all 3 speakers OEM SPEAKERS (Junk) Pioneers Much Better Polk's Even Better 107DB400Polk Audio db 400 4" 2-way Speakers 1049.9949.99 Here is all 3 of them top view And side view Now with that being said, here is how you remove and put them in a 2nd Gen..... #1 Remove Fairing. (there is no going in from the front) #2 Remove the gold bracket and the black box (blinker box>?) #3 Remove the Philip's screw for each speaker #4 Start removing the four screws holding the speakers in place.. use a 8mm wrench when you can and a 5/16 deep socket for the hard to get to ones. #5 Now with all the screws removed you start to pry the front bikes grill along with the speaker a part. If adding Polk's you will need to enlarge the (2) inner holes a little bit.. (2 holes that will face the middle of the bike) #6 when adding the new speakers the (inside holes will be placed in-between the plastic as show) NOTE: I did place small pieces of cardboard in-between the metal bracket and the magnet so it Will help NOT to demagnetize the speakers. #8 DONE (replaced everything in reverse order) Now CRANK IT UP! Happy Riding! Jeff Notes: 2-way 4" car speakers polymer/mica composite woofer with butyl rubber surround liquid-cooled, silk/polymer composite 3/4" dome tweeter certified for marine use 2-way crossover network recommended power range: 4-35 watts RMS peak power handling: 105 watts frequency response: 85-22,000 Hz sensitivity: 91 dB top-mount depth: 1-13/16"
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Have any of you ever been able to run 2 batteries in parallel on a RSTD? I have been thinking that it may help make sure that i always have power, but I am not sure how the increase in amps will affect the bike. Any ideas?
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I ended up not buying that Explorer. Wife and I went through some dealer lots and found a great looking '06 GMC Envoy Denali with a ton of features and I might start having buyers regret. After having it less than a week (we bought it on 12/01) the power windows started to not work of which i made a video of it with my phone and sent it to the sales guy. Wife took it to the dealer on Monday, they looked at it and said they couldn't duplicate the issue. They said they looked under the dash and checked out the driver door side power window console and said it must be a loose wire. After we bought it found out consumer reports hates this vehicle for having all sorts of mechanical and electrical issues. Before the F&I guy turned in the paperwork we bought the extended warranty. It is a step below the bumper to bumper warranty of which we were told we didn't qualify for due to the vehicle mileage (almost 84k). Only thing as part of this warranty is you have a $100 deductible for every visit providing it is for different things. In other words provided it is on the list of things that is covered like a/c compressor, if it goes out we pay $100 they fix it. If it goes out again later we don't have to pay another $100, but say 2nd visit is for transmission then we have to pay $100 again. When we bought it, the sales guy said it comes with a 500 mile or 30 day warranty which ever comes 1st which we are under still. I emailed the sales guy and made it very clear we aren't paying a dime for repairs on a vehicle we have had for less than a week. Which is exactly what happened. Wife tells me just a few minutes ago the f-tard mechanic wanted to wait after the 30 day/500 miles was up so we would have had to pay the $100. No wonder why he wanted to come up with the quick solution of a loose wire. I just emailed the sales guy again letting him know I am still having issues with the power windows. Basically they just stop working. Doesn't matter if I try and use the driver or passenger side buttons. I haven't tried the rear passenger windows. Only way I have figured out to get them to work again is to shut the vehicle off, let the interior lights dim all the way out and restart the car, but eventually they stop working again. The driver side panel has the power windows, heated seats and power locks, so I can add that when I have this issue 2 out of the 3 functions don't work. We have bought alot of GM vehicles over the years and this is the 1st one I am getting a not so good feeling on Thoughts? Anyone care to share their experience with any of your GMC vehicles or Envoy?
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Came across this unit that distributes power. Looks interesting and replaces fuses. http://www.motorcycleinnovations.ca/Rowe_PDM60_p/pdm60.htm
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was on my first night ride. going down the highway thought it was cutting out but wasant sure still had plenty of power. then was town driving stopped at the busiest intersection would not rev up then all power went dead. pushed it to the side nothing. pushed into a church parking lot pulled cover off. reached down to left side of battery. lights came back on. and would start. rode one block same thing. so every time it would start cutting out would reach under left handle bar wiggle wire and it would straighten out made it home doing this. any ideas. not the fuse box or battery cables. wire to computer above the area. :think: why why
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Here's info on my experience of my recently installed Dynatek 3000. idle rpm was a little higher starts much faster & better more power around 2000rpm more high end power 11% increase in mpg I recommend it. JohnB
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I will be removing the cassette deck and turning it into a storage box. It just so happens that my crackberry will fit in there perfectly. I would like to add a power outlet in the back of the box for charging the crackberry. Does the cassette deck have a power line running to it? If so can I add a power outlet to the end of that line after I take the cassette deck out? If so is there a separate fuse for that line and if so will I need to change the fuse for this? Finally if so which line is it on the back of the cassette deck? Thanks for your input on this. -
For those who know, why does the '88 have less advertised power than the '83? The '88 has a bigger bore, and slightly bigger carb, and a little more torque, but the rest seems the same, yet the '88 is advertised with 11PS less power? What would account for this difference? Just askin'.... -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA '83,88 Venture -
I've read on this happening to others and could use a little input. My 03 Venture I have installed an HID headlight bulb I installed as instructed running Power and ground from Battery installing a switch with a small dash light to insure power and plugged into the original headlight connector, Now it lights right off but will go out some times as soon as I hit the road others times later down the road, once I get rolling on down a long ride it seems to stay though I haven't gone far when sun is down. I had noticed that the old h4 bulb(55w-100w) would seam to go dim then brighten before but had thought it only got bright when charging system kicked in as my driving lights work to keep road lit so maybe it was going out also. Now in my years of spinning wrenches though the years to me it sounds like a bad ground any input would help thanks.
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I need help BIG TIME. I replaced all my dash lights with LED bulbs. I was going to take a pix of my dash & noticed that the lights are all out. I tested the LEDs & they work elsewhere. I replaced one with the oem bulb & there is no power. My headlight IS working though. Is there a fuse that I am overlooking?? I gotta get this fixed tomorrow I have a meet & eat on saturday! -
Hope someone can help with this issue. Two weeks ago my speedometer and all other digital gages quit too. Took apart and checked for power. I noticed that if I disconnected the r/g continuous 12 volt power source wire and then turned on ignition key, all gages would work. And if I reconnected the r/g wire all was fine. But as soon as I turn off key and turn on again with r/g wire connected my gages will not work. Disconnect and turn on key all is fine. So I thought I would connect a toggle switch on the 12v r/g wire and test out on the road. Ok now hear is where the big problem is. I decided to go to gas station to make sure gas gage would work. Started down the road and ran thru first and second gears no problem. Started ramping up in third and when I got to approx. 45 mph the motor just fell on its face. It acted like u just cut off the power. Forth and fifth forget it it will not hardly run at all. Anything over 45 from third gear on will not run. The bike will run fine up to as fast as 65mph in second and not flinch. Shift to third and it will lay down til u get back down to about 40mph and u can cruise there and slower all day long. BTY. Before I started messing with the Speedometer the bike ran like a scalded dog, -
Okay, so the first leg of my Three Flags Classic rally ride is completed. Left my home yesterday, just outside of Olympia, WA., and made it down to El Paso, TX. in slightly under 24 hours. That was 1,727 miles from home to El Paso. Had horrendous head winds through Idaho, fuel mileage down to 28mpg. Lots of wind in the higher mountains, and...BigLenny...I have to agree with my compatriot MikeWA that simple physics on a naturally aspirated bike will show you that riding in much higher elevations will show you a lack of power on your '07 RSTD. I certainly felt that lack of power crossing passes at 6,000 and 7,500 ft. Passing power was affected, and I had to drop a gear more times that usual to go the speeds I wanted to. No rain to mention, but the heat was a killer. It was 98 in Boise, 92 in Cortez, CO, and mid 90's in El Paso. There was one particular (fun to watch) lightning show in far southest Utah, but I avoided being struck, (ha ha). Being from western WA., I really like riding in 60's degree weather. The hotter it gets, the less miles I am wanting to do. Give me a solid 60 degrees, and I can bust out 1500 + miles every day. So I made it to El Paso, and now we wait for all the "normal" riders to show up over the next two days. The we leave here at 3:00 am on Friday, head to Buena Vista, CO., then to Little America, WY., and then Dillon, MT., and finally end in Nelson, B.C. Entire round trip for me, home to home, should be about 4,500 miles. Other than lack of power at higher elevations, the bike ran excellent. The greatest asset on this ride has to be my new Russell Day-Long Saddle. My 10th seat from them, and by far the best yet. Never once had one second of discomfort in 1,727 miles in under 24 hours. Time to get into my motel room, and get some sleep. If I can, still UP from the ride.
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On the way to work this morning the 93 lost pulling power. Idles ok but when you try to take off for a stop it is like you are in second gear. I took the plug wires off each cylinder one at a time and have spark. I took them apart and cleaned them as described here. The front right resistor was black and there was no spring. Is that bad. I didn't have a meter so couldn't test. Also noticed there are no flat washers in any of them. Are they important and could any of this be my power problem? Thanks Kevin PS would like some phone support if anyone is willing. Thanks again:confused:
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I bought a 2005 Midnight Venture from a friend in Texas,elevation 1000ft,and brought it to Colorado Springs,elevation 6,000 ft.I've noticed that when decelerating,it will sometimes backfire.....not real loud,but it does backfire.Seems to run fine and don't really notice any loss of power at higher (12-13'000 ft) altitudes.Just wondering if any other people live at higher altitudes and whether they had to rejet.
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Dumb things we do .... I'd wired up my Trailer Isolator and realized I'd wired it to the Aux fuse block I'd installed, which is only live when the key is turned on. Now, the Isolator is supposed to be wired direct to the battery so ... I disconnected it, patched in an in-line fuse, and hooked it to the battery. Then I tested the power connector to the trailer .... NO POWER on any of the connections (run, brake, turn)... WHAT??? I fussed with that for a while, checking this and that ... couldn't understand why no power.... and then it HIT ME ... ! ... I connected the wire to the negative post on the battery :rotfl:!!!
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Brenda Yohman Frick, I'll mention that to him. Problem is when it's cold, runs like a beast. However when it warms up he loses power and can't get over 50 in 4th. I'm thinking Fuel filter? or maybe water in the tank? (seafoam)
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Here is my dilemma. Pulling out of the drive this morning my OEM radio went dead, no power to it. Not even the little green lite that shows it has power. I have checked the fuses in the main fuse box, the ground to frame, cant figure out where it lost connectivity. I pulled out my electrical schematic and it shows two fuses for radio, one is a 1amp the other is a 4amp, I guess thats what it means, its labeled 1A & 4A. One is on a blue wire the other a red/blue. Anyone know where I can find these 2 fuses..............I am stumped. This is the first time I have ever had a problem with this radio. The CB powers on but cant hear it because no power to amp or radio..................HELP!!!! I have also checked the connectors to radio, made sure they were clean and used dielectric grease on them.
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