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Showing results for tags 'polished'.
Found 15 results
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After the bike being on the lift for about a year she will be coming back to earth in a few days. Just got to add fluid to all the brakes/clutch and bleed, route some electrical accessories, install the tank and seat and it'll be good to go. Should be like a new bike with all the work that went into it. Should get another 10 years out of it. I dont need no stinkin "new" Venture anyways..... Lets see: rebuilt and deburred and polished the lower legs and beer cans. Progressive springs and Amsoil fork oil. Polished the R-1 calipers as well as the front rotors. Also polished the rotor bolts as well as the brake banjo bolts. Polished the lower tree as well. New neck bearings and races. Flanders bar conversion. Chrome switch housings. Polished the brake and clutch masters along with SS brake and clutch lines. Rebuilt rear caliper. Chrome front and rear wheels. Rebuilt said wheels as well with new bearings, seals spacers, dampeners. New saddlebag rails. VMAX rear. Saddleman seat. Assorted chrome accessories. (im still finding stuff that I have ordered while I was under the OXY spell) (no, for you newbies, it was for knee replacement, not a crack hoe addiction) And I did order much stuff..lol Even taught myself to mount the tires. I didnt want the shop to scratch the chrome. Im sure there is more stuff that ill uncover but thats all I can think of right now. I still need to strip and polish some of the old billet covers that the chrome has been fading off. Thats something that I can do as the winter sets in here in Florida. I was hoping that Eck would have invested in a new paint job for his future investment but, ah, well.........
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I have been sanding the wheels on my 99 to begin polishing them. I still have a long way to go. I looked around at several chromers and polishers and was amazed at their quotes. One polisher, who I liked his work alot, came in at a price higher then some of the chromers. Best chrome price I can get is about 700 bucks. The polished wheels came in just over that. Guess ill just have to knuckle down and finish what I already started myself. The cost is just too prohibitive to farm it out.
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since the carb covers are nolonger avalible was wondering if anyone could make a poster board pattern for me and i will try to make some out of polished aluminum thanks bill
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As promised here are some pics of the polished front fork deflectors that my friend came up with. They are made of 6061 T-6 0.125 aircraft grade structural aluminum and are highly polished. Yes, they are also one piece....no seperate bracket needed. I have had a mock up set on my RSV for over a month with no bracket issues. The ones in the pictures are representative of the finished product with two exceptions. The final production pieces will have a slightly larger mounting base with elongated holes so the whole deflector can be slid side to side for a better fit and the polishing will be much better. This was a quick polish job so they could be displayed on the bike at the Daytona M&E. Another feature is the extra width and length of the deflector. They are wide enough at the bottom to clear the front fender rail bolt. Also, no screw holes..completely smooth surface. Im quite happy with this set just the way they are but I know the final set will be much better (read that shinier). Now the nuts and bolts: The use of 6061 T-6 aluminum is not cheap. For a good product you need good material and you cant do much better than the 6061 for finish and strength. A minimum of 20 orders would be needed to cover material costs. So, if you like what you see and want to commit to an order let me know, either here or in a PM. Price for both deflectors is $79.00 plus shipping. Once the minimum of 20 is reached I can contact those who committed to arrange payment. Dan is a close friend who happens to have access to the right tools and wanted to offer me a nice piece for my bike. We discussed possibly making extras and offering it to our VR members. Thats how this came about. So whatdya think????
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I'm having my front forks resealed and new pregressives put in. The guy doing the work for me called me last night to say one of the fork tubes has a scratch on it. He's taking it to a machine shop today to have it "polished" out. I'm not sure what that means but wouldn't a scratch be a groove, not a raised ridge ? How would "polishing" help ? He's pretty confident, but not 100% sure, that it can be polished out so I was wondering , if it can't be polished out enough, and it's not too bad, would it be worth while trying to fill it with Locktite 660 and then polishing it down even ? Anybody ever try a filler on a fork tube scratch ? -
I am just trying to get a handle on how many users have had problems with their throttle cables either being too short or too tight after installing risers (Baron's or other). Yes, I know that Baron's says longer cables are not needed, but I have read through enough posts to see that there is some sort of problem. I plan on getting these risers from this eBay seller: Polished Risers I think I prefer these because they are polished, where the Baron's looked brushed. Anyway, I am trying to figure out if I should just go ahead and order a longer throttle cable... Thanks.
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Lets welcome Metalmaker to the forum. He's the brains and brawn behind the polished deflector project. And hes a bit shy........
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Trying to decide which of these "Safety Chrome" items to get....been looking for a while... Ebay product is Polished Aluminum..... about $155.00 to Virginia... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-YAMAHA-XVZ13-ROYAL-STAR-VENTURE-RADIATOR-GRILLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1494Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem270370394405QQitemZ270370394405QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories The other is by "Custom World International"...Cruiser Customizing has it for $120.00 to Virginia...Chromed Steel....Phat Performance has them for about $145.00 plus delivery.... http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/detail.cfm?model_ID=42&Category_ID=7&manufacturer_ID=6&product_ID=22764 Anyone here have either of these and could you comment about Polished Aluminum versus..Chromed Steel.....No Rust on Aluminum....Right>>>>> Thanks in advance George In Virginia
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does anyone know of a easy way to get that varnish/clearcoat off of these aluminum engine covers? Mine is half off and not consistant. I have tried mineral spirits to no avail . When i get them cleaned and polished is there some material that can go back on them to keep them sharp? Please advise. thanks! scott
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I have had my bike a week now and have broken the 1st rule, hope y'all forgive me....Here is the new ride, all polished up no less
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To have your handle bar risers acid dipped and then professionally polished..............Check this out ................. cost $60.00
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I was cleaning up the classifieds a little and sent some emails to some folks with older ads. I received the following response from Toolman. I don't know what all he has left but if you are looking for something, you might want to shoot him an email. Please have members contact me again. I now have been sick for a while and feeling better now. Whatever parts I have for the venture with the exception of the polished parts will be sold very cheap or given away for the cost of shipping and a little handling fee. I would like to see someone use these parts before I put them in the dumpster. Regards Toolman the__toolman@hotmail.com
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Finally got the 91VR home this afternoon. There was some question about the black/gray paint scheme being the original color. I thought it was probably a repaint since evey other 91 I've seen....I think??... is dk.blue on lt.blue. So tell me what you think... The tag on the frame member is gone so I couldn't get the manufacture date. The bike still needs a lot of TLC, but nothing that can't be handled. I think it might have been a Venture Line display bike with all the chrome hanging off of it. The only ding in the plastic is below the right mirror. Luckly it's in the black paint and easy to repair and touch up. I'm looking forward to making it a show piece. Corbin seat and backrest, chrome radiator cover, polished out risers and passenger floorboards, polished out engine covers, woodgrained dash and ignition cover, and lots of Lemon Pledge. Engine runs strong, and brakes and clutch are good. WoooHooo!!!!
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I've been looking at pics of '99 & up RSV's. I notice that as of 2004, the clean, sparkling, bright, "polished" aluminum / silver appearance of the engine has been replaced with a lot of "black" and it appears to have less chrome/polished aluminum. In other words, it sure doesn't look as nice (IMO). Anyone have comments about this? Why did Yamaha change this? was it to keep the cost down or? ... personally, I prefer the "shiny" look of the 2003 and prior years. What all parts got the "axe"?
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Understanding your RSV Rear Shock Many of you have seen my old RSV shock that I had cut open to expose what the inside of the shock looks like. Well I have gone to the next step. I just had my Works shock rebuilt and this is when I realized these shocks don’t last forever and rebuildable shocks need to have the oil changed out every 35,000 miles or so because the oil wears out and get contaminated with the nitrogen. Once I understood this, I felt that the oil in the RSV should probably be changed out as well. So when I went to pick it up I took this cut-up and exposed shock to let my professional shock rebuilder look at this shock and give me his evaluation of what makes this shock work and what is the purpose each section of the shock. And I was a bit surprised but after he looked at it and we talked it over, everything made perfect sense. So here it goes….where you can refer to the diagram in the attached file: You can see that I have identified four basic parts of the shock: Outer Body Inner Sealed Shock Valving The Outer Shock Seal Polished RamItem 1. is the upper black part of the shock just above the rubber boot. This is nothing more than an air chamber, where in conjunction with (4.) the polished ram and (3.) the seal, allows air to be pumped in via the hose and Schrader valve to control shock preload and bike ride height. Item 2. Is where the real shock valving resides and is completely press sealed like what you would see on one of your Monroe shocks. I assume this contains oil and maybe a nitrogen charge, but the latter is only a wild guess. Item 3. is the outer body seal that keeps air in the upper chamber. There is a metal bushing just above it to keep the upper body in alignment with Item 4. the polished ram. Item 4. Is the polished ram that resides under the rubber boot. Even though this piece is polished, it is not hardened and is susceptible to scratches, mostly from a dry bushing. Another purpose of this piece is to act as a reservoir for 7.5 oz of oil that stays inside the shock to lubricate the outer shock seal and ram. The reason I know the amount of oil, is that I took out the Schrader valve, hung the shock upside down and let it drain for 5 days until it stopped. With the shock upright, the oil will stay in this cup pretty much undisturbed, with the exception there is a 1/8” hole about ¾” down from the top of the ram. I can only assume that as the bike moves from side to side some oil will come out this hole, run down the ram and help lube the bushing and seal. Now this also means that if the bike is laid on its side, most of the oil will run out and down the outside of the ram. I can only suspect when this happens, a shock will start leaking (seeping) oil out the bottom if there are scratches in the ram. But if the ram is not scratched and the seal is holding this will not present a problem with the shock action. This will only help lube the bushing and seal. In fact in those cases where the shock is making that squeaking or groaning noise, it is doing this because the seal is dry and really needs to be lubricated. At this point, I would suggest that you could lay the bike down on it’s side and let some of the oil run down the side and I’ll bet your groaning shock will quiet down. Also, I would have no problem taking the schrader valve out and squirting in a couple ounces of 20 weight fork oil down the hose to help lube the ram. You will also note that this shock has a full-length spring but with a spring rate of only 839 lbs/in and the shock travel is 1.77 inches. Now my conclusion on this shock is that you could cut the upper body and the polished ram completely off and you would still have a fully functional shock……but without any preload or ride height adjustability. And it’s not a bad design for what it does for the average rider. But if we are taxing the load limit of the shock beyond 839 lbs. or the maximum load limit of the bike of 419 lbs., we should be looking for a heavier shock. The spring rate on my Works shock is 1,200 lbs. Finally, if the shock is leaking oil, the ram is scratched and maybe the seal torn so it won’t hold air much longer anyway so it should be replaced under warranty. If it’s groaning it just needs some internal lubrication, where I have given you a couple of options to satisfy this. There you have it, Rick Shock Diagram.PDF
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