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Showing results for tags 'plug'.
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Please oh great and wise ones... I'm going nuts here. About two months ago now I got stranded at work on my 99RSV. Rode to work just fine. When I went out to start it to go home, the starter turned and turned but she wouldn't start. I pulled the two back plug wires (cuz I could reach 'em) and stuck a screwdriver in there. No spark. I got the bike towed home and checked the other two plug wires. No spark there either. Checked resistance to the coils, and I'm easily within specs. Same on the batt'ry voltage. I then skipped all the other smart things to do and ordered a new pick-up coil and gaskets. After installing the pickup coil, the bike started!! Unfortunately after I shut it off, I could not replicate the victory and it hasn't started since. Well... I'm too much of an idiot to admit to my co-workers that I don't want to ride cuz it's just too darn cold, so I've been using the excuse that the bike ain't runnin' as my out. I'm now starting to get that twitch in my eyelid from driving the cage to work for two months and have decided to re-enguage. Any ideas? I'm gonna try to bypass the Kickstand and kill switches tonight (there's no need for anyone to remind me that I should've checked that before buying a pickup coil... my wife has that covered) but I'm not hopeful. any suggestions? thx! -
My 1985 VR is weeping gas out of a plug on the top of carb #1. The manual is not much help. The plug is about the size of a dime and has four very small slots around the perimeter (maybe used to remove?). You can see it in the picture below (its the shiny spot next to the #1 carb throat). Can anyone help me with ideas on a fix?
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I’d like to make a headphone adapter that will allow me to plug a 1/8 stereo into the factory headset plug on a 2nd Gen for music listening. I’ve got a noise reduction headset that I’d like to install in my helmet and plug directly into the bike. My thoughts are that if I get a male adapter and the 2nd Gen and the wiring diagram for the headset plug that I could make an adapter to a 1/8 female stereo plug. This (I hope) would allow me to plug in the noise reduction headset. Can it be done and do you think it will work??? Secondly, does anyone have the wiring or schematic diagram for the headset plug that shows what each pin is for?? Charlie
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I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to bluetooth their CB into a bluetooth intercom (Scala, Chatterbox, or the like)? I have heard you can do it but it will be a listen only. I want the full CB and think I figured out a way to do it. Just wondering if anyone has beaten me to it. I have good news and bad news. In theory this works, however I need to tweak it some. The problem I have run into is with the volume all the way up you can barley hear the cb. When you key up others can barley hear you. I think the problem lies within the size wires we used. I will tweak this in the up coming weeks. So far this is what I have done. Once again this is needs some tweaks. I wanted to be able to use my stock CB unit in conjunction with my Cardo Scala Rider G4 Power Set. It took me some time but I finally completed the task. I made this product for my Dad’s motorcycle (2007 Yamaha Royal Star Venture), but it should work on any intercom system using a standard 5 pin plug as they are wired the same. The Search: I started searching the internet for a solution to this problem and stumbled across this forum and read many people want this same feature. I think as of now the only option is from J&M and the system cost around $1,000USD! I have also seen where some people used store bought adapters (5 pin to 3.5mm adapter) and in doing so discovered they could only hear the CB. The wiring in the store bought adapters will not allow for a microphone input. The Idea: I located wiring diagrams of the stock 5 pin plug and a product called a Blue Tooth Adapter. The Blue Tooth Adapter (BTA from this point forward) I used is the Cardo BTA II (see link below). You can use other brands but be careful in your choice. The BTA is designed to plug into a non-bluetooth phone and allow the phone to connect to another bluetooth device, like a bluetooth ear mic (or in our case motorcycle blue tooth headset). Make sure you DO NOT buy one that is to transmit only! You will need the device to be capable of both transmitting and receiving. You will also need a 5 pin connecter plug (see link below). The Steps (Please if you are not good with wiring or soldering do not attempt this on your own) Once I had the two items I pulled the top of the BTA. Inside the device you will see a battery, a circuit board, and the coiled wire that has the 2.5mm plug attached to the other end. Three wires connect to the circuit board, on mine they were colored white, red and black. The wires were labeled: white is +microphone, the black is the common ground and the red is +speaker. Be sure to take note what color the wires are and what they do (they may be different for your application). With that taken care of you can reseal the unit. The next step was to cut the 2.5mm plug off the end of the wire. Take the bundled wire and strip off the insulating outer cover. This will reveal the 3 wires you noted in the previous step. Strip the insulation off the 3 wires so you have the bare wire exposed. Using the CB 5 pin wiring diagram (see link below) you may now solder the wires to the individual pins in the 5 pin connector plug. Make sure you solder the wires to their respective locations. In my case the white (microphone wire) will be soldered to the pin labeled 1 (see link below), the black (ground wire) is soldered to pins 4 and 2 (see link below) (this will ground the mic and speakers), and the red (speaker wire) is soldered to pins 5 and 3 (see link below) (this will allow you to hear the CB in both ears). Please if you are not good with wiring or soldering do not attempt this on your own. It takes some knowledge, quite a bit of soldering skill and some specialized tools. You have very little room to work and if not wired correctly it will not work properly. Also, if you use other parts or products other than I have I do not know for sure if they will work. I have not tested any other brand BTA’s or other brand headsets at this time. Thank you J. Yates CB 5 pin plug wiring diagram: http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cbwiring.pdf 5 pin plug adapter http://www.frys.com/product/1570803?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Blue Tooth Adapter: [ame][url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-4266561-3880738?a=B000LGUAU8]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-4266561-3880738?a=B000LGUAU8[/ame] I will update my next steps in days or weeks to come. Wish me luck. J. Yates -
Can't get the rear drive oil filler plug out on my red bike. It seems stuck fast. I have tried some heat and currently have some kroil soaking on top of it. Its dark now, so I'll leave it soak till tomorrow. I am afraid of deforming the hex of the plug if I put on too much force. I havent tried the drain plug bolt yet but everything is very dry on this bike so I'll bet it will be a problem too. Suggestions? Thanks, Brian H. -
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Hey y'all, I found an easy way to use that white aux power plug located just behind the battery on the left side. Even though the cap does not have the necessary pins in it to make a connection, the pin retaining clips work somewhat like wire clamps. I just stripped the ends from some 18 gauge zip cord and tinned it, then used hemostats (or small needle nose pliers) to insert the wire into the contacts in the bottom plug - they fit very snugly after tinning. Here are a couple of pictures - not the best, but you should be able to see what I am talking about: [ATTACH]16155[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]16154[/ATTACH] Just make sure you insert the wires into the metal contacts in the plug, not the empty spot next to them where the retaining clips are (I think that the second picture actually shows me holding the wires in the wrong hole)! The way the plug cap is designed, the wires are protected from accidentally touching once the cap is put back in place. Also, remember that this plug is only on a 5 amp fuse (located behind the right front cowling). Good luck, Goose -
Here's the numbers key as a .pdf file attachment -Pete, in Tacoma WA USA NGK Spark Plug Number Key.pdf
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Has anyone had a stator go south on a 2nd Gen RSV? I'm only getting 9.5-12.5VAC at the voltage regulator plug and the same voltage at the stator plug.
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Gear position Indicator upgradefor standard Ventures (Non-Royales) I have installed a gear position indicating system on my 1983 Venture. This is the stock model without the dash readout from the factory. This is the second Venture I have owned. The first one was a 1984 Royale. Two of the things I really miss from that bike were the gear indicator and the cruise control. The cruise control is coming later. I have all of the stock parts now needed to install it. I obtained a Neutral Switch Assembly from a 1984 Venture Royal through an Ebay auction for under $10.00. This assembly will exchange with the stock neutral switch assembly from a standard Venture. The neutral switch assembly is located between the back end of the stator cover and the front of the middle drive. It sets back in about four inches and is difficult to see, but is accessible. Removal of the middle drive cover is needed to access. To indicate what gear the bike is in I mounted three LED lights in the gauge cluster above the volt gauge. The left light is lit it indicates 1st gear. The left light and the center lights lit indicate 2nd gear. The center light lit indicates 3rd gear. The center light and right lights lit indicate 4th gear. The right light lit indicates 5th gear. The neutral light works as normal. In neutral none of the LED’s are lit. I could also use five LED’s, using one for each gear, but I like the 3 light system as it is easy to see and once familiar with the pattern, it is very easy to determine what gear I am in with a quick glance down at the gauges. I initially used a red, green and amber LED’s but the green and amber had poor visibility in the daytime. I replaced with all red ones. I also painted the part of the LED’s that are inside of the cluster with black paint to keep the light from the instrument cluster from bleeding through the LED’s translucent housing. I used four diodes and three LED’s from radio shack for the light logic circuit. Four IN4004 rectifier diodes. Price $.99 for two Three Red LED assemblies. Price $1.99 each The new Neutral Switch Assembly has a six pin plug on the end that sets in the same area that the stator and rectifier plugs are near the fuel pump. I had two spare diode assemblies that I have obtained in the past and used the plug from one of these to mate up with the plug on the Neutral Switch cable. I had to take one extra wire connector from the second diode assy. As the diode assembly plug only used five wires. You do not need to use this connector if you do not want to though. I retained this plug as I will be replacing the wiring harness when I install the cruise control. I put the diodes in the circuit near the plug connections on the end of the neutral switch assy. I then ran three 18 gauge wires up to the instrument cluster. I used a trailer four conductor plug I had to make a connection at the instrument panel. I have attached a PDF file with pictures and a wiring schematic to install this. -
OK, I tried out the Colortune yesterday, and I don't think I am impressed at all. My plan was to use the Colortune on one cylinder, then compare the CO % of that cylinder with the others using the exhaust gas analyzer. Since I cannot find any published specifications from Yamaha for the right CO level on this engine, that seemed like a good way to approach it. The problem is that the Colortune does not seem very specific. I could turn the fuel mixture screw a LONG way in either direction without seeing any change in the color of the flame. After turning it out a lot I did eventually see a yellowish flame as I should, and if I turned it in far enough I would eventually see it begin missing a lot (mostly just a weak spark), but there was a huge range between those two points where all the sparks looked the same. I eventually just turned it in to the ultra lean point, then turned it out just a bit past where the spark seemed to be regular without any missing. The interesting part was that when I compared this setting with the original position of the mixture screw, it was almost identical! Coincidence? I have no idea. One other problem that may have contributed to the lack of a clear setting was that the spark was constantly jumping from the top of the Colortune plug to the engine, potentially causing a lot of misfires that would affect what I could see. But since this engine seems to have a dual-fire ignition with a waste spark in every cycle, there is no way to be sure how many of those arcs were really causing a misfire. I was doing this inside my garage on an overcast day where I thought the light was about right to easily read the Colortune. In addition, I was working on the left rear cylinder where it was very easy to look right down on the plug and get a clear view of the spark without needing to use their mirror attachment. Finally, I purchased the 12mm Colortune specifically for this bike instead of the generic 14mm unit with a 12mm adapter. I am glad I did this now, since the 14mm with an adapter would have had the Colortune plug sitting much further out of the cylinder, and I would be wondering if maybe that was why I found it so inaccurate. I have not yet tried out the exhaust gas analyzer, but I'll let y'all know how that goes soon. In the mean time, I would be interested in any responses from others that have actually used the Colortune. What did you think? Goose
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My RSV has a coolant leak, under the left aft cyclinder cover. It is not coming from the cover bolt holes, but what I think is the cylinder drain plug (looks like #1 in the center picture on page 3-35 of the service manual). This 'plug' has no internal or external wrenching feature, but the center is threaded. Can I tighten this plug to try to stop the leak? How do I tighten it? Can I just thread another bolt in there to tighten it? Or will tightening the cylinder covers push it in to hold it? The bottom cylinder cover bolt was loose when I disassembled it.
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Not realizing a smooth running acceration and decent Gas mileage since installing the new programmable TCI I decide to plug the old TCI back in and compare the performance between the old and the new. 1st I just plugged the old TCI in with the new map sensor still hooked up with vacumn tube to the #1 Intake boot port but electrically not hooked up. Leaving the tank cover off, I go for test ride to auto parts store. It seemed to run about the same as the new programmable TCI. So I'm thinking the problem is not related to the TCI Old or New. But as I was leaving the auto parts store the bike began backfiring, bogging down then shut off and would not recrank.WTF:confused24: So, I'm sitting on the side of the road for about thirty minutes scratching my head, trying to get the bike to crank and worrying about a two mile up hill push home. Then I noticed the orange wire on the 6 pin plug to TCI is hanging 1/2 way out of the plastic plug. I push in all the way in and the bike cranks. So then I get on the highway to run the bike at highway speeds for a few exits and back. On the xway it runs about the same as the new TCI maybe a little better. But, before I could get back home on three occassions while at a traffic light the bike starts bogging down again and backfiring. After wiggling wires it straightens out. When I get home I wire in the leads to the old TPS into the new 8 pin plug so I can switch back and forth from the old TCI/TPS configuration to the new TCI/MAP Sensor configuration and unplug tube from Map sensor to intake boot and hook up tube from TPS to port. While doing this I notice that the pins inside both the 8 pin plug and the six pin plug are not all bottomed out indicating that the pins are not securely locked inside the new plastic plugs. I'm thinking INTERMITTEN WIRE CONNECTION FAILURE WITHIN THE QUICK CONNECT PLUGS On several occassions since I've owned the bike over the past 10 years poor performance and gas mileage has been traced back to bad electrical connections of the quick connect plugs to the TCI. Numerous other problems resulted from bad connections in multiple other quick connect plugs. I just dont trust quick connect plugs anymore. So, I took some small needle nose pliers and make sure all of the wires are pushed in all the way on the TCI plugs and take a ride around the neighborhood. The acceration was quicker and more responsive than I ever remember it being and the bike litterly flies. Next I'm going to take a longer test ride on xway to see if my theory holds up and the gas mileage improves.
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went to prep the bike to trailer to maint day in Tomball, Tx and what did i find? green fluid on the clutch cover and an open hole on the valve jug. tell me if i have guessed correctly and a freeze plug has blown out. the green stuff is anti freez (that didn't work). then i guess i will need a freeze plug. how do you install a new one? I don't know what is going on with my bike, but if all "junk" comes in three's, then i should be clear by now. 1 rear tire flat - new one bought and installed 2 clutch shifter problem - in process 3 freeze plug - in learning curve. thanks -
Bazooka MC-YAM-AMK Amplifier Kit is available from crutchfield and i wonder if anyone here has used this product? i like the idea that it will plug into the system without cutting any wires, however it is a bit $$$$$ pricey$$$ and looking for any info or product reviews thanx mike.
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Not sure if I am asking in the right place but does anyone have any extra headsets that they want to sell that will plug into my "06" Thanks, Kenny
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Just My luck....going to be near 75 tomorrow, was going to ride the bike to church in the A.M. and then go for a ride. Went in the shop to check on the bike and found a coolant leak around the left rear cylinder cover. Pulled the side cover and discovered, it appears that the plug is leaking. There are threads in the plug but no bolt. Is there supposed to be a bolt that holds the plug in ? If so what size? Thanks, Mel
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well put in igntec computer the 5 month. had carbs rebuilt and seen them in pieces and looked at all pieces. drove it 250 miles a while back went out the next day front right not firing at all cold pipe. took computer out and checked ohms at plugs 109 at pickups and 2.5 for coils. pulled off plug cap. cant remember how to check. where can a person buy one at and is the wire replaceable. and i read some where that the coils could be cracked and test good just not fire. is this true? the cap looks damaged just not sure. any ideas
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Just got done wiring bike for trailer . Put converter and 6 panel fuse box with ground under diamond plate and made ridgid fix for plug.
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I'm trying to get the TCI connector plugs out. They wiggle but don't want to come out. There is a tab on top of the plug, is it a latch that needs to be lifted or do I just need to pull harder?
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I need to know the correct plug to use in my 2002 Mmidnight RSV. I have found dpr8ea and dpr7ea. A little help would be appreciated.
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Going to try this again. Anybody have an old , bad, removed, ignition coil from a 2nd gen laying around ?? If you replaced a coil, could you pull the plug wire out of the " old " ignition coil, and take a photo, or let me know, if the plug wire can be " Re-Installed " after you pull out the old one ?? ie: is there a pointed SCREW inside the hole the same as on the 1st Gen Ignition coils ??? I'm trying to figure out if I can replace the plug wire on these coils, but do not want to destroy a good one in the process. Any help here, appreciated, thanks.
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Ok, we all know that on 1st Gen coils, you can eaisly remove the plug wire from the coil, and the spark plug cap. On the 2nd gen coils. the plug wire appears to " NOT " be removable, ( or replaceable ) from the coil end, of the plug wire. SO-- I was looking at my right front Ignition Coil on my 08, yesterday, and where the plug wire go's into the Coil, it appears as if there is a " Sealant " applied around the wire where it mounts into the coil. What I am getting at here, is I would like to replace the Plug Wires, with some type of " Shielded Spark Plug Wires " . Anyway, so I am wondering if maby I Could remove , and replace the wires from these coils. Does anybody, have a Used ( ie: removed and replaced coil ) laying around in their garage. If So, any chance I could get you to take the old coil, and pull " out " the plug wire, and take some close Ups, of what the hole looks like, and what is inside the hole after you pull out ( ie: remove ) the old plug wire. I hope this all makes some sence, any way thanks to anybody who might be able to accomplish this, I'm working on " Reduceing " Ignition Noise on the AM radio I have installed on my RSTD. And installing Shielded Plug wires might be of some help. ---------------------------------- Next Qustion : ??? Just curious, has anybody, Installed the 1st Gen Ignition Coils, on a 2nd Gen Bike ???? this would obviously solve the plug wire problem, if the coils will work on the 2nd gen bike . I make this point, because it very easy to replace wires on the 1st gen coils, and lots of them avialable, I allready have two of them, and would only have to find 2 more to do the job, if this is possible. ?? --------------------
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just tore down my 88 venture forks to replace seals and it seems someone has replaced them with progressive springs because they do not have the stock look...nor do they have all of the yamaha parts after the top fork plug... when I disassembled the top for plug these springs did not have any spacer, washer or plug between the spring and top cap... Now I need some senior advice for what to do... Can I make a spacer and washer...the spring is just riding on the top plug...Thanks everyone in advance.
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Greetings, I am at an end. I do not know what is wrong with my motorcycle. I have a 2006 RSTD with 8500 miles, and a few months ago I noticed a little backfiring when riding (mainly coming out of the right muffler.) It progressively got worse. I decided to change the plugs and noticed that the rear right cylinder plug was fouled (completely black.) I changed all the plugs, the problem persisted. In fact, after just a 20 min ride it fouled the new plug on the Right Rear Cylinder. My local dealer suggested to run some Techron through the bike, did not help. Also, there is a strong gas smell when running the bike. I checked the plugs and they are getting fire. I read on the forum that it might be my carbs, I bought a Carbtune 2 and synced the carbs (they were not even off that much.) No Change. A friend suggested to change the plug wire, but I quickly found out the plug wire is molded to the coil. I am not a mechanic, but I have done minor repair and maintenance on my bikes through the years. I am at a total loss. The owners manuel says that a black plug means a defective engine (I sure hope this is not the case.) Your help would be much appreciated. God Bless, Matt Powell My bike needs a good doctor
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For some idiotic reason I thought I had fouled a plug in my 2007 Venture. As everybody knows, I'm not a mechanic but thanks to the tech section I was able to convince myself that I could change them myself. The reason for the change was the "miss" that I heard in the motor and miss-diagnosed as a fouled plug. So, in less than an hour I had them changed and the bike back together. No special tools, just a Craftsman 18 mm deep socket, a 3/8" swivel, extension, ratchet and a couple allen wrenches. Each plug I pulled I was disappointed that it looked like a new plug - crappola All 4 plugs were in excellent shape, nice light brown, gapped to (I think) 34 thousanths. I didn't have a 34 but I did have a 32 and a 35. Loose 33 and the 35 wouldn't go. Close enough for the girls I date. Got it back together, startedit up - still had a miss. 15 minutes later, some seafoam and fresh gas - I'm just about ready to blame everything on gas that was 2 years old - now, anybody that wants to come down and wake me come on down - bring you're own 2x4 or ball bat, I refuse to take a beating with my own tools
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