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Showing results for tags 'pistons'.
Found 17 results
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Sooooo, changing the rear brake pads I have discovered the pistons are stuck. Had the rear master cylinder opened and still couldn't push the pistons in, just barely moved. Questions: -Before rebuilding, what if I try a bigger hammer so to speak, and C-clamp these into position? -How hard is it to rebuild? Will I have to bleed the brake? -Saw used rear calipers on Ebay for $50, no idea if the pistons compress. Other thoughts, ideas? At least it's raining so, I am not missing riding today! Cheers, -
This is my first brake rebuild on this, my 87 model. I was getting leakage on the front wheel. and resulting loss of brake "pedal". When I took the caliper off the bike, I couldn't tell which of the four pistons was leaking. Now I realize I only have one set- not two, which is what i need to do both sides. I'm pretty sure the one closest to the banjo bolt was the culprit- I'll do the "outer" side. I guess it could have been the banjo bolt. I was going to pull the pistons. But how do you get them out without damaging them? Do I need a special tool? I thought this would be EZ. With a 14mm bolt stuck in the banjo bolt hole (inlet) I compressed one side with pliers but boy do they seem tight! Any advice?
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Ordered the R1 calipers for my trike on Saturday, came home yesterday and they were waiting for me on the porch. I thought I was getting the ones with the blue insert (steel pistons), but surprise I got the ones with the gold insert, (alum. pistons). I immediately pulled out the tools and pulled the left caliper off the trike and the R1 slipped right into place. Now I am waiting on the new pads to arrive. The pads on them were still fair, but I decided to go new, dont want to have to work on it twice. Next upgrade will be the SS lines I looked up the price for new ones at BikeBandit and was in shock, the were over $500.00 each, and I got both of them for less than $100.00 shipping included........ :banana:
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If anybody here is either looking for or knows anyone looking for a 1978 Honda CB400, either for parts or to repair, they are more than welcome to come get it. When I got it, I did get it to start, but not well. I found a hole in one of the pistons. My first hunch is it was caused by the fancy splitfire plugs that were in it. I took the engine out and pulled both pistons. A friend was interested in fixing it but then lost both pistons. A long story how he managed that. The timing guides also need replacing and a valve stem also got worm kind of funny as well. I do have all the parts boxed up and it has always been store indoors. It's a flat primer gray and has a tear in the seat, but is in good condition otherwise with good tires, at least the last time I looked, I think). I also have a couple manuals that you can have as well. When I was going to fix it, I was going to bore it 1 over and if I remember right it was gonna run about $500 total or so. Any questions, please feel free to ask. I'm not fixing it myself because I have plenty other projects. I'm giving it away because it was given to me by the original owner. And I'm usually not much of a capitalist either. Thanks, Bill P.S. I'll try to get into my shed later and take some pics if needed.
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I am replacing the pads on my rear and was wondering if both pistons are supposed to be able to back off or is one side stationary? -
As I'm going through the process of fixing the second gear -yeah I'm taking my time in between all those other demands. I have my engine upside down working my way in getting the oil pump, oil gallery pipes off and I notice this piece sitting on the pistons - see highlighted in first picture. I've taken a few pictures of it but I'm not sure what it is or where it goes at this stage. Can anyone give me some pointers? Thanks in advance. -
I did a valve adjustment and got it all back together and running but now my choke handle will only pull out about a 1/4 inch, not enough to really work. While the carb was off, all I really did to it was spray it with carb cleaner. I did move the pistons in and out with my finger while spraying it. Did I do something wrong? I can't see anything interferring with it on the outside. Any ideas?
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I am planning on rebuilding my front calipers as I suspect one of my brakes might be dragging. I pulled the calipers out and upon inspection the pistons were as smooth as can be except for the small section that sticks out of the caliper while in the normal position. Running my finger across them I can feel that they are a little rough. Some of it is just dirt and some might be actual damage to the piston itself. My question is: How much pitting is okay in the caliper piston before it ought to be replaced? It appears that any roughness in the piston itself remains outside the caliper when a set of fresh pads are installed therefore I would presume that it is fine to go ahead and not replace these and just polish them as much as possible before reinstalling in the rebuilt caliper. I have included a few pictures of what I am looking at here - I know it is a little hard to tell, but it was pretty much the best I could do. Also, is there anything else I ought to be checking for on these? I did notice more dirt build up on one of the caliper's pistons than the other, which leads me to believe that something is wrong with that particular caliper (ie leaky seal or something like that). Thanks for putting up with my dumb questions... -
Hi all! A new member here with a question for the guys who know. I unseized the pistons, cleaned the calipers, polished the bores and pistons with 2000 Wet O Dry but I think the seals are shot. I actually believe them to be the originals. Haha. The Question: Where do you get your caliper rebuild kits and what do they come with, IE: pins, pistons, dust seals, etc? Any details would help! Chris -
I have a 1988 with 28,500 miles on it stripped down. Cylinder heads and valves looked normal. Pistons 1 & 2 have a tight oil ring. There is burnt oil below rings on #'s 1 & 2. End clearance on #1 ring about .020" on on all 4. End clearance on #2 ring about .020" on 3 & 4. End clearance on #2 ring about .026" on 1 & 2. Side clearance on all oil rings in tolerance. Cylinder walls good on 2,3 & 4, cross hatching still very visible. Cylinder wall on #1 not bad condition but cross hatching not as visible. No ridge at top of cylinder. What if any thing specific would cause left side pistons to be in worse shape than right side. Picture shows pistons 1 -4, left to right. Gary -
I have a bad #2 cylinder on my 85 and can not find new pistons and rings. Will Vmax pistons and rings work in the venture motor? Vmax pistons and rings are still available from Yamaha but not the ones for the Venture. I have not asked this question at the local dealer I figured I could get a better answer here.
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How much would you pay far a complete rear brake job ---- rotor pistons and seals and the labor to do it
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Probably a simple question, but when I put the new front brake pads in the caliper they barely will squeeze in there. There is NO way the rotor is going to fit in between those new pads. So, how do I get the pistons to retract into the calipers? I know I'm probably overlooking something obvious but I just can't think right now. Thanks for thinking for me...
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time to reassemble
nowindinmyhair posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
OK. First of all, thanks to everyone providing input my scraping noise and brake issues. With the suggestions received and the manual, I think I may have found more than one problem. Brakes: I think the pistons were sticking and there may have been some air or crud in the lines. I took the calipers off, took the pistons out and cleaned them all up. Hopefully, I will notice a difference when I put them back together and bleed properly. BTW, I'm glad I checked all that because I now think I had little or no back brakes. (Not something I would have noticed gradually because it was obviously like that when I got the bike.) Driveshaft: This baby needed to be cleaned and greased bad. That's all done. Now I am reassembling and I can't figure out where to put the spacer re: the brake torque stopper plate. The spacer fell out during reassembly. This would have been easier if there were two but I only have one. It's about 1/8 " thick. Does it go between the brake stopper plate and the frame or between the plate and the wheel ? Once again, thanks in advance. Ben -
I have a 1989 Venture. When I crawled underneath to get a good look at my brake pads I found this. Hope the pics show it well enough. The pad to the outside of the wheel (ie right side of bike when sitting on it) has worn at a very bad angle. The other pad is not as bad, but actually has the opposite wear angle. Obviously, the pads need replacing. I suspect the pistons and seals as well? Are there only two pistons in the rear calibre? That is what local Yamaha dealer says....at about $113 each and another $50 for pads. Is there a cheaper source online? Should I get a kit and redo the master rear as well? Thanks.
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My '83 VR overheated. Long story. Anyhow, the engine is now out of the bike and the heads removed. No 1 cylinder head cracked. I'll be looking for a replacement. Meanwhile I'd like to remove the pistons, hone the barrells and fit new rings. Can the pistons be removed without splitting the case ? Jimod Darwin Australia
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The bore and stroke on a 1200 is 76mm X 66mm. What is a 1300? I spent the evening taking the 1300 engine apart that I have had for a long time and it don't look too good. I knew it probably had some rust in the bores because it had been left out in the rain uncovered for a while and it was froze up. I split the case and ended up taking the crank out so I could hammer the pistons to the bottom of the bore and clean the cylinder walls some before knocking them out. It looks like if I am going to use this block I will have to bore it and go with bigger pistons. I really don't think this is what I want to do. RandyA
