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Showing results for tags 'pipe'.
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Hoping someone can help. I have a 98 RSTC with 4 into 4 pipes. I thought the dremel trick (where you cut the pipe a few inches into the back pipe) would work but the diameter of the the 4 into 4 must be smaller than the 4 into 2 because the dremel cutting disc is too large! What other mode can I do? I only want a moderate noise increase. It it would be good if someone could also recommend suitable aftermarket pipes for 4 into 4.
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Hey Folks, I'm on a 6000 mile hike through the US... Currently in Phoenix (week of May 19th), Next week Houston (Week of 26th) with 5 days over the weekend to enjoy (I hope). Im 2600 miles into this trip with i have a 2009 Royal Star Venture that I bought with LAC pipes... the noise is killing me.... I'm looking for New OEM (take-off), Used OEM to swap out before i keep going. Will consider trade, cash, beer or whatever else won't get me arrested. Thanks G
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The following description of my exhaust pipe problem encountered during the first week of our recent five week trip and my emergency repair was originally posted in my thread "Our Venture West". It has been over 10,000 km since I did this emergency fix and it has worked so well and without any exhaust leak that I don't plan on any further repair. While traveling along the Yellowhead Trail through Saskatchewan on our recent trip west, my exhaust noise got louder and still louder again after part of the chrome heat shield cover to the exhaust pipe broke away. The exhaust pipe from the collector had broken loose from the muffler and the muffler was left hanging by one bolt with no support. The end of the exhaust pipe was rusted and broken away so badly that it couldn't be reconnected to the muffler. Truly an "Oh Sh--" moment that could have ruined our trip west. The first picture shows the exhaust pipe after I removed the muffler. I got lucky as the next town had a Canadian Tire Store (open on Sunday) where I bought an exhaust pipe coupler designed to reduce pipe size and some aluminum duct tape. After removing the original clamp at the mouth of the muffler and wrapping both the front few inches of the muffler and the last few inches of the exhaust pipe with the aluminum duct tape for a tight fit, I slid the coupler over the muffler and the exhaust pipe and bolted my muffler back in place. To my surprise, there is no exhaust leak and I think the joint is as strong as original. I would bet that mine isn't the only first gen with a wore out exhaust pipe under the chrome cover. Attached Thumbnails
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Got started on servicing the swingarm today and when I removed the Y pipe one end just slipped off without loosening the clamp. Looked in service Manual for a part number but didn't find any listed or shown pg 3-32 . Discovered this after removing the exhaust bolts at the head on one side and then realized that it wasn't necessary. Also found a pin hole which I should be able to weld up. Been having a little bit of popping now and then so now is the time to get the exhaust tightened up.
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Hi. I'm trying to completely remove the exhaust. The mufflers, front down pipes and lower chamber/collector box are off but how do I get the rear downpipes off the bike? I've managed to get the cover plate out but the down pipe is proving awkward. There is obviously a knack but I haven't got it. Has anyone else any experience of removing this part? Thanks in advance, Fi
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I need help. The oil pipe delivery broke and is putting out some kinda oil. I tried cutting it and using a piece of hose but to not much avail. If you got one laying around please PM me.
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Well, seller accepted my offer for his '06, black cherry, venture today. Extremely happy....price seemed well below what I was finding on CL and I've slowly fallen in love with the color. I think the only mod's that have been done are the highway pegs and chrome guards around the saddle bags. All I plan on changing is adding a hitch, building/finding a trailer, and exhaust. Not sure if any on here have dyno'd their bikes after the slip on's...but see occasional posting about popping on decel. Since the harley dealer here in Cedar Rapids will give a "non-tune" dyno run for $50, I'll throw mine on there after the pipe swap (most likely to the road king mod to start) to see how Oxygen is and whether rejetting is in order. With the full headers on my Vmax...I only needed to shim needles, left main jets the same....so wouldn't be surprised if the Venture needed nothing. Oops also read on here I need to do something with the wiring to add the hitch, so will have to research that as well...and get parts on order.
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My gas mileage has dropped and my bike isn't running smooth. The carbs have been synchronized so thats not the problem. I used to go 165 to 170 miles on a tank before switching to reserve but now am only going about 130 to 135 miles. When the weather was cold and I started the bike the left pipe purred fine. The right pipe would skip every now and then. The bike doesn't seem to have the power it had before and I am getting some vibration that I didn't have before. Any thoughts? I have an 05 RSV. BTW I have used seafoam and it didn't change anything. At the last service, 52,000 miles, the plugs where changed. Now have 56,000 miles.
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I am going to need to cut open my best collector after the spare I had on my bike had the output pipe on the right muffler break off. I took my other collector off last fall because it was rattling bad. My question is, if I take the center wall out that seperates the two sides, will it make the bike louder? I have had a set of Jardines on the bike for about ten years and really don't want the bike to be any louder. In the tech write up, it does state that it opens up the bike a little, like putting a crossover pipe behind a set of headers on a car. Suggestions appreciated. RandyA
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After 3 trips to the muffler shop and 4 hours total labor I got the roadkings on my 86.Got the pipe and the bends for free.Nice to have friends.
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Can't get the clutch to bleed or work .When I bought the bike the clutch was going out I bled it and it came back just fine I put about 200 miles on it and it went out again and I tried to bleed it but nothing I thought I saw a leek from the pipe line so I replaced it and now again nothing any ideas?? Small air bubbles come out when I comprees handle but nothing major..
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Posting this simply as a problem solved. Others will have this issue and hopefully they will find this thread in a search, and it might help. 1st Gen VRs sometimes suffer from exhaust rattles. The noise is internal and frequently caused by a deteriorating baffle in the collector. Ever since I have had this bike it has suffered from a rattle which isn't evident in a cold engine, but soon makes its presence felt as the bike warms up. At best it is annoying, but now it is fixed. Sometime ago I had the exhaust off to have the collector repaired. It needed new stubs making and welding on and this was done. At the same time I cut open the collector to fix the baffle. To my surprise it was undamaged, so the hole was simply closed up again. More recently I have had an issue with cylinder #2 firing when it wanted to. This too is fixed. New Plugs, Wires and Caps took care of it. I still had the noise and something else unusual. The front downpipe on the right was heating up much faster than the one on the left (#2). That wasn't right. Cylinder #2 was firing correctly so it had to be another issue. Then I realised that those downpipes are "double-walled". What if there was a break internally. Here is what I found: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0277.jpg And another view of same: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i418/twigg2324/1986%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale/DSCN0279.jpg Note the break that extends almost the whole way around the internal pipe. Newish downpipe from eBay demonstrated two differences .... Firstly, it had no break, so a good sign Also, the new pipe had a thin but unbroken layer of carbon completely coating the inside. This is normal. As you can see from the pictures the carbon layer is broken, and feathers towards the crack. There was some serious upset in the gas-flow in this pipe, and could be the equivalent of an exhaust hole causing lean condition and an idle that could be reluctant to fall to normal when the motor was very hot. So ... All bolted up, engine running quietly and smoothly, and no rattles. Hope this helps.
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The Drain Pipe has no room for me to seperate at the leaking joint. At the Bottom the Drain Pipe goes into the cement floor. Above the Drain Pipe has a T for the Vent and the horizontal drain connection to the sink/dishwasher. This drain connection goes through the 2 x 6 and so the drain Pipe hole has absolutely no give in it. So see attachment for my solution. 1st picture is the leak at the 1st picture at the point where the vertical pipe goes into the curve piece. 2nd picture is my plan of the fix. By so doing it provides me some give so I can make all the connections. Anyone see any issue with the solution?
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See Picture So as the drain pipe comes down the main floor wall from the sink area, it has to make a inward jog so the pip can come inside and down the cement wall into the basement. The leak is all along the circurmfrance of the long verticle basement pipe where it fits inside curved pipe. So what is the best way of fixing it?
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Just bought an 05 Venture 2 weeks ago and its too quiet. I bought a set of Monster Ovals that fit Harley touring bikes. I have been doing alot of reading up on this procedure. I bought the 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 chrome clamps that everyone uses to get the slip ons to mount to the stock head pipe. My problem is that once I put the clamp where it is supposed to be there is about 1 1/2 inch of head pipe showing between the stock heat shield and the new clamp. I can slide the clamp all the way to the heat shield and cover this gap but then the slip on wont fit over the stock header pipe because its too long. Anyone else run into this before?
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My right muffler on the 91 VR is loose. I grab the tail pipe and the entire unit easily moves side to side 1/2 to 1 inch. I've tighten the bolt to the frame, and I've tighten the clamp at the juncture point. It appears that the movement is at the clamp for the juncture point. I've taken the entire right muffler off at the juncture point for the muffle and the end of the exhaust pipe all look good. The nut/bolt and clamp has more room to tighten but it is tight on the muffler. To go much tighter I would break the bolt. The left side is tight. On my 89 VR both left and tight muffler are tight and snug. Could there be a missing sleeve/spacer the goes over the end of the exahust pipe but inside the muffler? Also I noticed 5 lub fittings while I was under the VR. Before I grease them are there any more? Also any special type of greese reommended?
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My gas mileage dropped by about 10 mpg. I checked and my left back cylinder wasn't heating up the pipe so I removed the plug and it was fouled I replaced with new plug but pipe still does not heat up So cylinder is still not firing. I can do some repairs but am not sure on what is the best way to trace this problem. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. dale
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I can't believe how fortunate I am. Before leaving for Cody, the AC started leaking water on the floor but I couldn't find the starting point. I was sure it was condensation water but from where? After we left, I got a call from our son saying that the washing machine had quit rinsing and spinning. I gave him some ideas but said I would deal with it when I got home if they didn't work. Wednesday, in Cody, my headlight/instrument panel lights stopped working. The fuse checked out so.... maybe the starter cut out switch or the CMU? I'll deal with that when I get home, the bike still runs properly. Then Friday, we rode as far as Tremonton, Utah. After a quick bite at McD, Jan's bike wouldn't start. Jump the bike, it runs; disconnect the cables, it dies. Luckily we were traveling with great friends and so we loaded the bike in the trailer and finished the trip home. The resolutions: Jan's bike - started with the battery and found the neg cable lose. Tightened it up and the bike fired right up!! One down, three to go. My bike - double checked the fuse, good. Checked the voltage at the fuse holder, nothing. The fuse holder clamp was broken! Put a jumper wire across the fuse holder....headlight works!! I did the fuse block upgrade, all is well. Two down. AC - Started checking to find the source of the water, touched the condensation plate drain pipe, it moved....shouldn't do that, should it? Pulled the pipe and made sure it was clear (cleared a minor obstruction when I blew through it). A little PVC glue to re-assemble the pipe. Number three fixed!! Washing Machine - Don't know much about washing machines....Call the Man. My wallet is a little lighter now. He replaced the defective cold water inlet valve and now we can have clean clothes. All in all, very lucky! Dave
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tracing donw my excess heat problem i noticed the chrome covering on the exhaust header on the right rear pipe lacks 2 1/8 inches coming to the motor so you see and feel that much pipe is there some way to move the chrome sheild closer to the motor of am i missing a short piece
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Any pipe or cigar smokers here? I have smoked a pipe for years. I like Prince Albert tobacco. I have recently taken up cigars. I like the Manacandu cigars. Any suggestions on cigars from the crowd?
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My last two takes of gas, I have only gotten about 30 mpg in my 05 RSTD. I have consistently gotten 35-38 as long as I have had the bike. Changed plugs and air filters last year, oil is good, nothing different in the bike or riding styles. Took a laser thermometer to measure the exhaust pipes right where the come out of the cylinders. The front two, which are hard to get a reading on because of the shielding, I think I got ~250. The rears I can see the actual pipe and got ~650 on each. Wondering if I just haven't gotten a good reading on the fronts, or if I am actually having some firing issues. Will pull the plugs and check, but wanted opinions on exhaust pipe temperatures.
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RK pipes I got for $75, and the 1 3/4" 20 degree bend pipe. I'm not too happy about the bend, but it shouldn't affect the performance much. http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-23_17-34-48_914.jpg Hanging the pipes from the bag hangers. I had to drill out the threads to accept the larger bolt that threads into the pipe hanger. http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-23_18-16-48_484.jpg I used some rubber grommets with a spacer inside to drop the pipes so they don't hit the bottom of the bags, and to isolate the vibration. http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-24_17-52-12_618.jpg http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-24_17-58-10_692.jpg Here's what they look like from the side. I'm still working out the connector pipe dimensions, I may have to put more of a bend in it, and get the ID of the collector side expanded a bit. http://i868.photobucket.com/albums/ab243/BriRit/2011-03-24_19-03-12_936.jpg
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Hi folks! One quick question. I took the mufflers off to replace the rear tire and want to know if the gaskets are an "always replace" item or if they can be reused. They're stuck pretty good on the pipe but overall look smooth. I want to get a no leak job, can I use the gaskets over and simply remount the mufflers? Thanks! Jim
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What did you use to drive in the bushing and seal? I can't find a PVC pipe the proper size and I'd hate to sink $40+ into a tool that I'm only going to use once.