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Last Updated 11/11/13 I will do my best to keep this post updated with the latest info. For now, this is only information for 83-89 (MKI) This is a continuation of a discussion that started here. The cliff notes...... A company in the Czech Republic, IgniTech, makes replacement ignition boxes and was working on one for 1st gen VR's. I had had several used TCI boxes take a dive and felt the need for a new TCI rather than installing another 20 year old used part, so I decided to pursue the IgniTech solution. After a few e-mails in broken English, I was able to provide them with the additional info they need to complete the development for a 1st gen box and I ordered one up. When ordering your own, tell them you want a TCIP4 for whatever year Yamaha Venture you have. 83-89 boxes and programming are all the same but because of the language barrier I'd be as specific as possible. It would be nice if they implemented a part # system but no such luck so far. Note: The stock 83 TCI is not the same as 84-89. But for the purpose of ordering a IgniTech TCI, they are the same. Their current pricing, including shipping and taxes is 157.14 Euro. At current exchange rates, that's $223.83 You can do the conversion here. This is what was in the shipping box. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2534/3881510658_52c2e48a85.jpg The ignition box, depending on the programing, works on a bunch of different bikes, so the harness is to mate the box to the Venture harness. The bag of pins that match the box side of the harness are to add wires to perform functions not used on the VR or to add in a MAP sensor.....more on that later. The CD contains software that lets you alter the ignition curve and some other parameters. You plug the pigtail on the box into a serial port on your laptop to access those functions. It will run OK on the stock map but leaves something to be desired. It's substantially smaller than the stock TCI http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2493/3883265968_09565e407a.jpg Looking at the connectors, I see that they combine the 4 pick-up coil wires into 2 inputs to their box. (the brown and yellow wires) http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2608/3883367448_c210082490.jpg They had said that they would need to do this to make it work. I believe that's why they needed the order in which the pistons come to TDC from me. I also noticed the the 2 wires for the pressure sensor are not there. This means that in this configuration there is no vacuum advance like the stock TCI http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2455/3883369706_578f1be0e0.jpg It runs fairly decent without the stock pressure sensor but adding a MAP (vacuum) sensor back into the mix really wakes it up. More on that later. I had already moved my TCI to the top of the airbox so installing it was a piece of cake. I used some Scotch brand Dual Lock (part# RF9730) to mount it to the airbox cover. It's Velcro-like stuff, but has interlocking pins that create a more positive grip. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2601/3883268106_256d897483.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2456/3882477735_b2905d9759.jpg http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2523/3882480987_ec4bba4254.jpg It clears the tank cover with no problem and doesn't push it up at all like the stock TCI did. I kinda tucked the serial connector up and out of the way. Edit on 9-30-09 updated info After putting approximately 500 miles on it, fuel mileage was off (verified) and power seemed down (seat of the pants). I found some info on their website that suggested the the pre-programmed advance curve might just be a guess on their part. So using the supplied software, I started adjusting the advance curve. It isn't possible to copy the stock TCI curve since the Ignitech box doesn't use the pressure sensor, so I basically added advance across the board until it started to ping during a 2000rpm, 3rd gear roll on. I even went so far as to stop and let it idle until the fan came on to get it as hot as possible before testing. Then I dialed it back, slowly, until it didn't ping anymore and then a touch more just to be safe. Here is the pre-programmed curve. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2640/3897735550_cf24b7543e_o.jpg This is what I ended up with. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/4506033451_d562c0f614_o.jpg Mileage and power are much improved. I rode an entire season with it tuned like that. But it still lacks some part throttle response compared to stock. At the bottom of the post is a link to this file and instructions on how to load it into your TCIP4. ______________________________________________________________________ If you're willing to invest a little more time and money, you can get an experience as good as or better than stock. Even though the bike ran pretty well with the modified map, timgray mentioned trying to put a vacuum sensor back into the system and this got me to thinking. The IgniTech box is set up for using a Throttle position senor input but not a vacuum sensor, but it seemed like with a little 'creativity' it could be made to work. After input from Tim and others, it was decided to use a GM MAP senor. (MAP = Manifold Absolute Pressure, it's basically a vacuum sensor) For reasons that you can read in the thread, I don't think using the stock vacuum sensor is the best option, but I'm still looking into that possibility. After some head scratching and trial and error, I was able to install a MAP sensor and ignition timing map that works pretty darn well. The throttle response is much improved along with MPG. I feel it runs as good or better than the stock TCI. For details about how I arrived at this configuration, you can read through the thread. Here are some additional parts you will need for the MAP sensor installation. 1- General Motors 1 Bar (non-turbo) MAP sensor and connector. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4809338814_03c324d519_t.jpg 1 - Vacuum restrictor - Dorman# 47311, NAPA# CRB 2618, Usually found in the "Help" section at auto parts stores or you can order one here. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4114/4809350006_de61dcbc3f_t.jpg 3 butt connectors to attach your 3 - 1ft. pieces of wire to your MAP sensor connector. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4808737617_a0aa590e79_t.jpg 3 - connector pins from the bag that came with your IgniTech box. Note: at least one member didn't get any additional pins, so if you are planning on running a MAP sensor, you might want to request them from IgniTech or order some additional ones from their site. 3ft. of vacuum hose. 3/16 worked for me but it's a bit tricky since not everything you need to hook up is the same size. 3ft. of gauge wire, 3 - 1ft pieces of different colors would be best. I used a General Motors, old style (larger) MAP sensor. Sensors for newer cars are smaller, but tend to be more expensive. One from any non-turbo car will work. You'll also need the corresponding connector. Here at Rock Auto is a sensor and connector for a 9 Chevy Pickup for less than $50. Edited on 11/11/13 to update purchase links and add VPV and NAPA sensor info The original sensor link above no longer includes the connector. Here at is a link to the connector you will need. Member KISA found this MAP sensor on eBay. http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5528/10813201475_0f68ae7def.jpg It's a Finnish company. They are currently priced at $40 US, including shipping, and come with the connector you need. I'm not having an issue with the GM sensor I have but I ordered a VPV MAP sensor because it looks more compact and easier to mount on a vertical surface then the GM. It took several weeks to get since it's shipped from Finland. Now that I have it, it looks like a quality unit. It has a billet aluminum housing and rubber insulated mounting points. I don't have it on yet, it will probably be a winter project. Here is the ebay link but who knows how long that will be good. You can also order them from www.piilix.fi but it's a bit of a convoluted process. On their homepage it says "Mainly selling low cost overstock batches". And the VPV Racing website, with the help to Google Translate, says "VPV Motor Racing has stopped working", which I believe means they're out of business. So these will probably go away at some point. Your local NAPA dealer can get you the connector under part# EC14 And a MAP sensor under part#'s PS10075, 2-1961, or 3-1961 Or you can go to your local salvage yard or auto parts store. Chevy used the same one on non-turbo vehicles from the early 80's until early 2000's. A 1990 Chevy P.U. with a 350 engine is good vehicle to use when having the parts guy look it up. Thanks to timgray, Here is another source for a MAP sensor. They also have a connector w/o the pigtail that makes it so you don't have to use the butt connectors. It's a little more difficult to do but results in a cleaner look. You need to connect your new hose to the #1 or #2 cyl. sync port. On 84-89's remove the vacuum hose that goes to the stock vacuum sensor and just let it hang out of the way. On my 84 it was on the L.R. cylinder (#2) but it's my understanding that most are on the L.F. (#1). On 83's the stock vac sensor goes to a ported source on the #2 carb. You could remove the hose and cap the fitting on the carb or just leave it connected since the stock sensor won't be used anyway. On my 84 there was a hose connector/fitting a couple inches from the carb. I disconnected the hose there, put in my new restrictor, then added the new hose, routed around the carbs and behind the frame tube and and tucked the MAP sensor in just to the left of the fuel filler. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4093/4810745879_0e346f1357_b.jpg To wire it up, connect pin A on the MAP sensor to pin 7 (ground) on the TCIP4, pin B to pin 6 (sensor voltage) and pin C to pin 17 (5v ref). Edited on 11/11/13 to include VPV Racing sensor pinout and update pinout images easier to understand For the VPV Racing sensor, The Red wire on the sensor (pin 1) goes to pin 17 on the TCI harness, Black (pin 2) to pin 6 and Blue (pin 3) to pin 7. http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2875/10814737246_e5cb6586f3_z.jpg http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5510/10814735346_0e151e2a4a.jpg http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2869/10815083995_abb0e30369.jpg This is what my finished MAP install looks like. My wires are plenty long but I wasn't sure were I was going to put the sensor when I started. Also, disregard the black wire, it was for testing purposes. I ran the vacuum hose up from the carb, behind the frame tube, to a spot just behind the airbox. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6133/5924665643_8f4f97f009_o.png The sensor tucks in right next to the gas cap splash guard on an angle. I slid the extra wire length between the guard and the airbox. I looked at all kinds of places to mount it and brackets to hold it but this is simple and works great. Once the faux tank cover is on, it can't go anywhere and has been fine for several thousand miles now. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6021/5924667343_e414b545f3_o.png Note: These files are for 83-89 (MKI) bikes only. Here is a link to the latest non-MAP sensor file. Use at your own risk! Here is a link to the latest file to use with a GM 1 Bar MAP sensor. Use at your own risk! Edit on 7-5-11 to clarify programming info You will need a laptop with a serial port or a USB to serial adaptor. The adaptors can be temperamental but it's worked fine for some. After clicking on one of the above links, click the "Download" button and save the file to your Desktop. To install a new map in your IgniTech TCI you have to connect a computer to the serial port on the TCIP4. The TCIP4 has to be plugged into the bike with the key on too, so a laptop works best. Insert the CD and open the file on the CD called 090715a_tcip4.exe. This is the IgniTech programming software. In the IgniTech software click the "Folder" button. Note: It seems the latest TCIP4's are being shipped with updated programming software, version 80. The file is named 100907a_tcip4A_v80.exe. http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5013/5448184931_e2cd52d823.jpg Then navigate to your Desktop and select the file you downloaded, either "Venture without MAP sensor" or "Venture with MAP sensor". Note: If you're using v80 software, You will get a warning popup. Click OK and continue. Then click Program. http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4134/5448185023_1cc707c2f8.jpg In the lower right of the software you'll get a notification saying "Program device" with a progress bar. When it's done it says something like "Program OK'' in green. I don't remember for sure. I'll try to get a screen shot of that soon. Close the program, turn off the key, disconnect the PC and go for a ride! I now have over 5000mi on my IgniTech TCIP4 without a single hiccup.

I was wondering if anyone has figured out how to bluetooth their CB into a bluetooth intercom (Scala, Chatterbox, or the like)? I have heard you can do it but it will be a listen only. I want the full CB and think I figured out a way to do it. Just wondering if anyone has beaten me to it. I have good news and bad news. In theory this works, however I need to tweak it some. The problem I have run into is with the volume all the way up you can barley hear the cb. When you key up others can barley hear you. I think the problem lies within the size wires we used. I will tweak this in the up coming weeks. So far this is what I have done. Once again this is needs some tweaks. I wanted to be able to use my stock CB unit in conjunction with my Cardo Scala Rider G4 Power Set. It took me some time but I finally completed the task. I made this product for my Dad’s motorcycle (2007 Yamaha Royal Star Venture), but it should work on any intercom system using a standard 5 pin plug as they are wired the same. The Search: I started searching the internet for a solution to this problem and stumbled across this forum and read many people want this same feature. I think as of now the only option is from J&M and the system cost around $1,000USD! I have also seen where some people used store bought adapters (5 pin to 3.5mm adapter) and in doing so discovered they could only hear the CB. The wiring in the store bought adapters will not allow for a microphone input. The Idea: I located wiring diagrams of the stock 5 pin plug and a product called a Blue Tooth Adapter. The Blue Tooth Adapter (BTA from this point forward) I used is the Cardo BTA II (see link below). You can use other brands but be careful in your choice. The BTA is designed to plug into a non-bluetooth phone and allow the phone to connect to another bluetooth device, like a bluetooth ear mic (or in our case motorcycle blue tooth headset). Make sure you DO NOT buy one that is to transmit only! You will need the device to be capable of both transmitting and receiving. You will also need a 5 pin connecter plug (see link below). The Steps (Please if you are not good with wiring or soldering do not attempt this on your own) Once I had the two items I pulled the top of the BTA. Inside the device you will see a battery, a circuit board, and the coiled wire that has the 2.5mm plug attached to the other end. Three wires connect to the circuit board, on mine they were colored white, red and black. The wires were labeled: white is +microphone, the black is the common ground and the red is +speaker. Be sure to take note what color the wires are and what they do (they may be different for your application). With that taken care of you can reseal the unit. The next step was to cut the 2.5mm plug off the end of the wire. Take the bundled wire and strip off the insulating outer cover. This will reveal the 3 wires you noted in the previous step. Strip the insulation off the 3 wires so you have the bare wire exposed. Using the CB 5 pin wiring diagram (see link below) you may now solder the wires to the individual pins in the 5 pin connector plug. Make sure you solder the wires to their respective locations. In my case the white (microphone wire) will be soldered to the pin labeled 1 (see link below), the black (ground wire) is soldered to pins 4 and 2 (see link below) (this will ground the mic and speakers), and the red (speaker wire) is soldered to pins 5 and 3 (see link below) (this will allow you to hear the CB in both ears). Please if you are not good with wiring or soldering do not attempt this on your own. It takes some knowledge, quite a bit of soldering skill and some specialized tools. You have very little room to work and if not wired correctly it will not work properly. Also, if you use other parts or products other than I have I do not know for sure if they will work. I have not tested any other brand BTA’s or other brand headsets at this time. Thank you J. Yates CB 5 pin plug wiring diagram: http://venturers.org/Tech_Library/attachments/cbwiring.pdf 5 pin plug adapter http://www.frys.com/product/1570803?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG Blue Tooth Adapter: [ame][url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-4266561-3880738?a=B000LGUAU8]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/191-4266561-3880738?a=B000LGUAU8[/ame] I will update my next steps in days or weeks to come. Wish me luck. J. Yates

I happened to stumble across a Venture Touring Society (VTS) pin this weekend; kinda unique pin and organzation. I am curious, was this organization once VTS or what? If not, whatever happened to VTS? Anyone know?

Just wondering why some pins are green. Is there a way to choose?

Has anyone tried one of these yet? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/motorcycle-trailer-swivel-hitch-coupler-goldwing-CHROME_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33653QQihZ016QQitemZ260273626629QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW Looks like a good idea and with the trailer weight being low at 500lbs the only issue I can see is after a while the pin or the mount wearing out. I think the only thing I would add is some kind of fill under the pin to keep it from rattling when not in use.

I'm wondering what effect this condition has on my poor gas mileage problem, and what it means. I took the diaphram covers off the carbs. All of the diaphrams had 2 to 5 pin holes in them, plus Carb 1 (left front), 2 (Left rear) and 3 (Right front) as your sitting on the bike, all had a film of dry dirty, greasy coating the inside surface of the covers, and the carb surface behind the diaphrams. The diaphram had a sticky feel to it like wet paint. ( probably partially disengrating rubber coating from previouse pin hole fixes with liquid rubber) [ATTACH]71649[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71650[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71651[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]71652[/ATTACH] #4 (right rear) was cleaner and wet with gas:confused24:

Not realizing a smooth running acceration and decent Gas mileage since installing the new programmable TCI I decide to plug the old TCI back in and compare the performance between the old and the new. 1st I just plugged the old TCI in with the new map sensor still hooked up with vacumn tube to the #1 Intake boot port but electrically not hooked up. Leaving the tank cover off, I go for test ride to auto parts store. It seemed to run about the same as the new programmable TCI. So I'm thinking the problem is not related to the TCI Old or New. But as I was leaving the auto parts store the bike began backfiring, bogging down then shut off and would not recrank.WTF:confused24: So, I'm sitting on the side of the road for about thirty minutes scratching my head, trying to get the bike to crank and worrying about a two mile up hill push home. Then I noticed the orange wire on the 6 pin plug to TCI is hanging 1/2 way out of the plastic plug. I push in all the way in and the bike cranks. So then I get on the highway to run the bike at highway speeds for a few exits and back. On the xway it runs about the same as the new TCI maybe a little better. But, before I could get back home on three occassions while at a traffic light the bike starts bogging down again and backfiring. After wiggling wires it straightens out. When I get home I wire in the leads to the old TPS into the new 8 pin plug so I can switch back and forth from the old TCI/TPS configuration to the new TCI/MAP Sensor configuration and unplug tube from Map sensor to intake boot and hook up tube from TPS to port. While doing this I notice that the pins inside both the 8 pin plug and the six pin plug are not all bottomed out indicating that the pins are not securely locked inside the new plastic plugs. I'm thinking INTERMITTEN WIRE CONNECTION FAILURE WITHIN THE QUICK CONNECT PLUGS On several occassions since I've owned the bike over the past 10 years poor performance and gas mileage has been traced back to bad electrical connections of the quick connect plugs to the TCI. Numerous other problems resulted from bad connections in multiple other quick connect plugs. I just dont trust quick connect plugs anymore. So, I took some small needle nose pliers and make sure all of the wires are pushed in all the way on the TCI plugs and take a ride around the neighborhood. The acceration was quicker and more responsive than I ever remember it being and the bike litterly flies. Next I'm going to take a longer test ride on xway to see if my theory holds up and the gas mileage improves.

I recently found a VR trailer hitch for my 86. But instead of a ball, or a hole to mount a normal ball it has what can best be described as a pin or stud. Roughly 3/4" in diameter. I am on a limited budget sort of for the trailer build and was thinking of getting a small Harbor Freight trailer to start the project. I'm leaning toward the model with 12" wheels as opposed to 8". Should roll better, less heat, etc. Is this thinking right? (In reading here, I may be over thinking this part.) Or will a Tag Along with it's 8" wheels and box already on be a decent choice. My local HF doesn't have one in stock to see "in person". So, with either trailer, should I modify the pin type hitch to accept the trailer (ball) coupler? Or remove the ball type coupler in favor of the pin type bike hitch? I'm probably going to have to make a modification to get level ride height anyway.

Picked up me new '12 venture Aug 13..... Loving it loving it loving it (and it looks great parked next to my TD)

Buddy has a 2006 RSV with a 4 pin wiring harness, He is wanting to pull my Bushtec trailer that has a 6 pin. Does anyone no of a converter or should I just tell him to order the harness from Bushtec? Anyone with a sugguestion? Thanks

Got started on servicing the swingarm today and when I removed the Y pipe one end just slipped off without loosening the clamp. Looked in service Manual for a part number but didn't find any listed or shown pg 3-32 . Discovered this after removing the exhaust bolts at the head on one side and then realized that it wasn't necessary. Also found a pin hole which I should be able to weld up. Been having a little bit of popping now and then so now is the time to get the exhaust tightened up.

Well my trunk is in the paint process and it is looking good. Cant wait till I get it back and installed. I went with solid color on trunk with a black bottom and then will add pin striping. Joe

hi everyone my first time posting, can anyone tell me if they make a throatmike for my 1999 venture royal star or if a 5 pin harley one will work? thanks in advance

I have just ended the last 5 St. Jude auctions for the last items. When using PayPal please insure that your 1st choice of shirt size is listed along with a second choice, sizes I dont have are Small and XLarge. Also include your shipping address, and please mark your payment as a gift, so St. Jude gets the full amount of your bid. For those that won just the pins $1.00 shipping, and all other shipping is $5.00, via Priority Mail. There is and underscore in the email addy.... partin_guy partin_guy@yahoo.com Winners are........ 1.PKtexas...............2 pins........$15.50 2.Carbon One...........Shirt..........$16.00 3.Sleeperhawk..........Shirt & Pin...$15.00 4.Coles Grandpaw......Shirt & Pin...$26.00 Thanks to everyone for your support. [ATTACH]67659[/ATTACH]"Its all about the Kids"[ATTACH]67658[/ATTACH]

I have picked up a 1983 venture for a parts bike but it is in good condition so i am going to get it running. First thing i did was clean the carborators and it ran pretty good, took it for a short ride only to find out i could not shift into 4th or 5th, after checking a few things and reading in the forums i took apart the clutch only to find a pin missing there is only 5 pins with one tab bent over and the pin is nowhere to be found. I have removed the oil pan only to find no pin there either. Could someone tell me where i can get the updated one that has a soild cover to hold the pins in. I will also need a pan gasket and a pin. Does anyone have any idea where the pin went. Not sure if that is why the other owner sold as parts bike. Have looked on top of oil pump and around that area. Any help would be great. Thanks Dave

5000 miles on my 2008 RSTD and I plan on being at Don's maintance day, what should I try and have done? I am not savey on the mechanical part so any help while there will be greatfull. Do I need to bring anything to do some maintance thing's? I would like to take off the front rotor cover's for a different look. Having some pin striping done as well. I will have completed the trunk install this weekend with help from Carbon one (What a great guy). Hope to see others for riding before then. Joe

Hello everyone, i'm happy to join the family. Now on to my problem. About a month ago I came across an ad on craigslist for an 84 yamaha 1200 in pieces for $600. I immediately answered the ad, and to my surprise I found a Venture. I negotiated it to $500 and brought it home. I assembled it and got it running right, which was a job in itself as it had been sitting for 5 years(ethanol sucks!!!). I went out for my first ride on it Friday and it was great. After about 75 miles I put it back into the garage for the night. Saturday afternoon I fired it up and headed out again. After about 15 miles it started shifting funny, stuck in gear unless slowing,etc. It then stayed in first gear and would not shift up. 15 miles home in first gear plus some seafoam really helped my carbs. Thanks to a post from pegscraper I knew exactly what to look for. I pulled the clutch to find a bent tab on the shift drum and a missing pin. I will run to the local bike shop and grab the parts to throw it back together this week. The only problem is the missing pin, it's nowhere to be found. Probably in the bottom of the crankcase. So how should I go about getting it out? After running it 15 miles all through the rpm range getting the bike home i'm thinking the pin could probably spend the rest of its days in there harmlessly. I would love to ride this thing through the summer and tear it down in the fall as it has the normal second gear issue that the first gens are known for anyway. What do you guys suggest.

Can anyone tell me if the GEN I (MKI or MKII) use the same electrical conectors and pin out as the GEN II Royal Star Ventures do where the main harness connector to the rear light harness under the seat? I have started making a jumper harness for the GEN II Royal Star Venture and was asked if the harness will fit a GEN I MK II, but I have no clue and do not know any one in the area that has a GEN I of any type that could be used to check it out. Wiring diagram and pin out is attached, photos can be seen in the GEN II classifieds in my ad. Thanks for any info.

Boy, I get a newer bike and I seem to be on the site a lot more. Go figure. I had a chatterbox tandem pro HJC-50 that I used on my 1st gen but the 2nd gen has a built in intercom/radio. Does anyone know or if it is possible to have an adapter cord that goes from the chatterbox (looks like 7 pin) to a 5 pin setup?

Just got some pin stripes painted on today by, Killer Designs by Darin Allen from Flatwoods Ky.

Royalstar Midnight Venture / 2002 / wiring a trailer to the bike. I made the trailer ball the ground because the trailer only came with a four pin wire set up. any suggestions for a better job?

I have to replace the cable that sits on top of the gas tank (CB/Headset cable). When installing the driving lights I noticed the cable was frayed so at the time I just tucked it up under the cover on the gas tank as I don't usually use the CB. Does anyone know what cable this is called as I have talked to the people at Pin Wall and they are not sure which cable I need. I noticed some call them intercom cables and some say it is a CB cable. They have a bunch listed on ebay. I would like to know which is the proper cable so I don't order the wrong one. Possibly someone on here could look at Pin Wall site or ebay site and send me a link or ebay number. Thanks in advance Dana

I had a push pin broke off of the side panel. I tried something new and so far it works. Super glue and baking soda. I put the baking soda on first place the pin then put super glue on. It causes a reaction and gets real hard. So far so good.

Folks, Last night I reciecved a call from oldschool, Ray Crosby in Temple TX. He is on his way to Chicago on his bike as his son, Chris, was involved in a hit and run. He is broke up pretty badly having had to undergo surgery to pin and screw his leg and arm back together. If you could take a second and send a little knee mail up to the man upstairs I know Ray and I would greatly appreciate it.....

I bought the Alumna Trailer from a forum member here and I proceeded to do the wiring after many posts read and a few pm's.... Changed the 5 pin round on the Alumna over to a 5 pin flat and same for RSV...Decided to do wiring at the tail light because of existing wiring under seat for the lightbar under the trunk (not a lot of room left)...Wired her up and everything work..... After a couple of days gone by I have my Bud over to show off my new toy....Turn the bike on...Start the bike....Reach under the fender near the hitch...grab the bike end of five pin connection and I happen to "touch" in the the bottom of the fender while reaching for the trailer end of the connection and ":puzzled:"...I blow the 15amp fuse for the lights....Replace the fuse and do this again ON PURPOSE and "same thing"....I replace the fuse....being more careful not to touch the bike end to anything and hook up the trailer and ALL IS WELL.... Question: Before I go into the rear light assembly and wire...What should I check first. I do not really want to go through everything again if I can avoid it.... TKS... Long Tall Lynchburg, VA:fingers crossed: